Widows Tears climbed 1/17/07

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 96 of total 96 in this topic
CF

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
The tears was climbed yesterday and you can find photos at:

Tuolumne Meadows Forum

I am in the process of editing and uploading at 9:35am so it may be a little bit before i get more posted.

cf
theLoop

climber
Northwest Montana
Jan 18, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
Great! The link is not working properly. I really want to see these photos.


Edit: Works now. Thanks. Will be looking for more pics!
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 18, 2007 - 12:40pm PT
http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org/
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Jan 18, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
What difficulty rating would you give the climb? How many pitches?
TIA
travelin_light

Trad climber
california
Jan 18, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
HOLY MOLY! Anyone have an idea of the difficulties, climbing time etc.? Looks like some business at the bottom. WOW!
pc

climber
East of Seattle
Jan 18, 2007 - 01:37pm PT
Beautiful. Very nice job.
pc
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 18, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
any more details on the ascent?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jan 18, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
Good. Real history for a change (instead of the nonsense in the NY Times and Washington Post).
Walleye

climber
Yosemite Valley
Jan 18, 2007 - 05:57pm PT
The Widows Tears was sucessfully ascended By Dave Bengsten, Doug Nidever and Scott Brown. I just spoke with Doug and he said it was very demanding. Doug said it was solid WI5 with some of the climbing on rock in crampons rated M4. They did it in 11 pitches. This has got to be one of the boldest, thinnest (at the bottom) ascents ever of the WT. I saw a lot of photos of the climb and all I can say is that was one bad-ass ascent. Hip Hip Hooray!!! Great job men!


Photo by Doug Nidever


Photo by Doug Nidever


Photo by Doug Nidever


Photo by Doug Nidever
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Jan 18, 2007 - 05:59pm PT
Superb. Seems like it's been cold enuf...
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
Jan 18, 2007 - 07:33pm PT
Awesome job guys! Way cool shots Chris. The bottom part looks sporty. The photos, with the tiny action figures, give great perspective of the scale of that unique and most proud route.
Walleye

climber
Yosemite Valley
Jan 18, 2007 - 09:45pm PT
Bump
pyro

Big Wall climber
Ventura
Jan 18, 2007 - 09:50pm PT
I'm impressed! I have dreams of climbing that ice one day.
I wonder what time of the day you started climbing and if you had to rap down to it? I'll find out one of these damn days.
good job with the H2O climbing
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
Congrats Doug, Scott and Dave !
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Jan 18, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
COWABUNGA !!!!
Mike.

climber
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:08pm PT
Great job!

Thanks for the fotoz.
WBraun

climber
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:21pm PT
Wow! That looks thin and scary. Excellent ascent!
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
WOW !!! You guys are Rad. What a proud tick in truley bad ass conditions.
Mimi

climber
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
Awesome ascent! You must be so very proud! Way to go guys.
stich

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:47pm PT
Very kick ass! Thanks for the photos.
TwistedCrank

climber
Boise, ID
Jan 18, 2007 - 11:53pm PT
yow. great pics of a well-done route.
junior

Trad climber
Modesto. CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 12:18am PT
Great job guys looks killer.
10b4me

Trad climber
California
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:12am PT
excellent job
marky

climber
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:19am PT
outstanding. TR to follow?
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:20am PT

VERY nice!!!

Awesome job guys and congrats. When was the last time it had an ascent? Dean Potter and Miles? I remember them telling me about it the day after..... with some pretty wide-eyed expressions.

DETails! OOOoaaahhh!!


Trusty Rusty

Social climber
Tahoe area
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:37am PT
CF-
Attempted WT last July. . . ended up closng the Mountain Room and getin fined for snoring in the Meadows. Glad you pulled it off.
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Jan 19, 2007 - 02:15am PT
July?

Great job guys!

Anyone know how the party today fared?

Scotty Brown

climber
Jan 19, 2007 - 03:10am PT
Hey y'all,

The ascent was ideal. 13 hours on route, 11 pitches, WI 5, 2000 ft. A fine line indeed.


View of pitches 3 and 4




Doug leading rock on pitch 3




Doug and Dave following pitch 4, Thin! WI 5




Dave Bengston following pitch 4




Doug Leading the "Ouray ice park pitch", Pitch 5, WI 4




Following pitch 6, WI 2




Doug on pitch 7, WI 4




Yup, we did the last three pitches in the dark.

The ice is in great shape. Dry and thin on the lower pitches and wet and fat above. It should stay in shape with the cold nights but the main thing to watch is the day time highs. Valley visitor center temps

Doug and Dave were awesome and we all had a great time! Thanks for viewing.

All photos by Scott Brown
California Alpine Guides

Info and conditions on the route: Scott@Californiaalpineguides.com




Kartch

climber
belgrade, mt
Jan 19, 2007 - 10:41am PT
Is Bad Ass overused yet because if not. . . .

That's some fine climbing.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Jan 19, 2007 - 10:49am PT
Wow - really cool pics!

Nice. Great thread and great send.

Tom
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 19, 2007 - 11:28am PT
way to go gents! wish we had ice and snow here this winter...
you wanna send some our way!
ks
McC

Trad climber
Livermore Ca
Jan 19, 2007 - 11:34am PT
WOW! Congrats to Dave Bengsten, Doug Nidever and Scott Brown!! Looks like some exciting climbing.

Great to see the telephoto pics by Chris Falkenstein and those taken on the route. Thanks for trip report and all of the pictures!


Ammon asked who's climbed it most recently. Anyone know when Dean Potter and Miles climbed it? ... after 2/5/02? Here's a partial list of names of some who've done it and some dates.

1975 FA team: Mark Chapman and Kevin Worral (a fun TR from a Supertopo thread last month: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897

Jay Smith and Craig Reason

1/31/02 Peter Mayfield and Mike Shane (same thread - another fun TR: www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=294566&msg=294897 )
2/1/02 Richard Leversee, Dan McDevitt, and a 3rd (I'm blanking on the name)
2/2/02 Wade Suvan and Melanie Lerner - rapped off a couple of pitches before the top
2/5/02 Erik Sandelin and Bill McConachie (Leversee thought this might've been the 10th ascent; trip report on Erik's website http://medlem.spray.se/eriksandelin/ )

Who else has climbed it and when?

Way to go Dave, Doug, and Scott!
Mick K

climber
Northern Sierra
Jan 19, 2007 - 12:17pm PT
WOW.

Those photos have goten me so pumped I'm going ice climbing tomorrow.
chappy

Social climber
ventura
Jan 19, 2007 - 12:33pm PT
Good job guys! The photos are great. Brings back some memories. Dale Bard and Ron Kauk did the second in Feb. of 78. Ed Barry and I did the third ascent immediately after. It was quite different than when Kev and I did the first. Our original ascent was done in quite warm conditions as the route was disintegrating. A truly inspired effort if I may say so. Conditions were much different in 78. There was a very heavy snowfall. The Valley floor had several feet of snow. The heavy snowfall built up on the routes ledge systems and supplied water to the lower pitches. This made for nice thick ice even down low. The ice was so good. Real thick and solid. I can't imagine it ever being in better condition than it was that year. I just had to go do it again!
The approach was murder though. I remember wallowing through snow that was at times chest deep when you punched through holes in the snow covered talus. Again great job guys on what has to be one of the most beautiful ice routes anywhere.
Chappy
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
Man alive, it looks like the route is hardly there. Three guys on 11 pitches is remarkable, this coming from someone who hates the cold.

Superior effort in my book.

JL
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Jan 19, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
Good job, lads! Looks like great climbing in thin conditions.
Dragger

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
Yea Scotty & crew! You guys are awesome!

Carolyn
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 04:13pm PT
GNARLY!!! Very Cool guys!!
G_Gnome

Boulder climber
Sick Midget Land
Jan 19, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
Wow, one of the coolest lines and now it's yours. Congratulations!

I hope everyone on it today and this weekend a safe trip.
Scotty Brown

climber
Jan 19, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
Rising Valley Temps Click the "5 days" link above the graph to see the trend

Be safe and heads up!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
Good show, guys! Nice!

"Attempted WT last July. . ."
As a rock climb? Ice was LONG gone before then....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Jan 19, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
mythical and heroic
cheers guys!
elcapfool

Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
Jan 19, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
Proud!
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 19, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
Way to go Doug, Dave, and Steve! on some proud bold climbing. Great pics, looks very thin...

Miles and Dean Potter did it around 95 or 96 I think on what looked like mostly wet snow, Mike Shane and I were probably the next ascent then Richard Leversee, Dan Mcdivitt, and John Wasson the next day, I think it got one or two more ascents the following week. Don't think it froze up the last few years.

Peter

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 19, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
Good effort guys, looks like you kinda barely had enough to work with down low, but the upper three quarters looks perfect. You gotta want that climb bad to get up it, the photos taken low on the route prove that.

Really enjoyed the photos, both from the ground and on the route, they bring fine memories of an awesome line and my most intense climbing experience. Hope to see some more ascents and photos.

Oh yeah- good to see a real honest to goodness climbing thread for a change!

Walleye

climber
Yosemite Valley
Jan 20, 2007 - 12:26am PT
The Warbler said

"Oh yeah- good to see a real honest to goodness climbing thread for a change"

A-men Brother!

I Couldn't agree more.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 20, 2007 - 01:41am PT
Ditto & Bravo!
You guys are doin' our age group proud.
Thanks for sharing the super cool experience.

-Roy
bonin_in_the_boneyard

Trad climber
Sittin' on the dock by the bay...
Jan 20, 2007 - 01:58am PT
Damn, I'm sitting here at my computer.

Have ice tools. Will travel...

James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Jan 20, 2007 - 02:13am PT
Man, Sometimes I forget that the guides can really rock climb. Bengston and Nidiver can bust. Congrats to the three hardmen.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 20, 2007 - 11:10am PT
In the beginning...
As is the historical pattern the WT was not in "safe condition" by Friday. The very compact, smooth granite walls do not support the ice with 1 (and only 1)warm day. We climbed on Wed, temps had been cold and Wed temps were L16 and H36. Thursday temps in the Valley and Badger Pass were L23 and H55. Stand back and watch er crumble.
Amen
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 20, 2007 - 11:25am PT
That's one hellava boulder problem. Proud!

An if this ain't an honest climbing thread, then there will nver be one. Photogs and all, sweet.

What time did y'all start and how long were you on the route? How was the descent? Not that *I'll* be using the info to suss the route, but it'd be cool to know sitting in my warm chair.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 20, 2007 - 11:39am PT
In the beginning...
K-Man
We put a car at Badger Pass Ski Area, then drove to the Tunnel View overlook. Began approach at 0545. It took 1.5 hrs, although could be cleaned up. It would be possible to V-thread the route (10-11 raps), but it is nice just to walk away, which we opted for. 3 hrs to Badger Pass.
blessings on ya'll
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 20, 2007 - 11:57am PT
Sweet. I guess you could stash some skis to make the walk off easier, 3 hours of post holing, ugh. I thought you'd take the trail back to the overlook, but BP sounds like the better way to go.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 21, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
In the beginning...
I'm just getting into the Forum, very nice to see so many familiar faces here. The climbing is good of course, but I have great memories of hang'in with so many of the folks here. Tarbuster, do you remember when we guided the Italians up the Nose, those boys couldn't speak a word of English. (thankfully a bit of French) I remember yelling up a pitch or 2 asking you how to say this or that in French, so I could tell the guy to put me back on belay. Walleye, nice hang'in with you the other day. Thanks for bringing me up to speed on the Forum. Werner, nice to see you again (as always)
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jan 21, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
Sic photos! Sic route....
gotta love the "internet's" for getting great stories and photos out to get you fired up!
ks
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 21, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
Welcome to the forum Flanders!
The Widows Tears post: just one more reason to hang around here online. Dig around and you'll find lotsa fun stuff buried in the "newspaper stack". A virtual reunion in many ways. Yes, I remember those multi-lingual belay signals on the Nose.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jan 21, 2007 - 07:52pm PT
WT looks like something Pete Schoerner would have been all over. Nice send guys.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 21, 2007 - 11:31pm PT
In the beginning...
Not many know of Pete Schoerner. He was a really good guy, good dad, his children are the same age as my boys (Tobin now 21, Layton now 19) How did you know Pete?
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jan 22, 2007 - 12:20am PT
Well, I only ice climbed with Pete a few times back in the late 80's. I did kayak with him a bit. And skied with him a bunch. He was a tele god. In my opinion he was one of the great unknowns.

I knew Pete as a result of my brother Chris who was a firefighter/medic in June Lake. Chris is now the Fire Chief in Soldotna Alaska. I wish my brother still lived in June Lake, it's nice to have a free place to crash.


Kevin Mokracek
Finessa

Social climber
Yosemite
Jan 22, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
So, who lead what pitches? Did you all swing pitches or lead in blocks. Who lead the crux? What was the crux? Who's Idea was it to make this knarly accent?
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 23, 2007 - 12:24am PT
In the beginning...
Hi Finessa,
the tech crux was the thin 3rd, ice started at 1/2", but quickly got up to 1.5-2.5" with occasional ledges with screwable ice (10cm). Scotty lead that pitch, oh so smooth and together on the thin stuff! The pump crux was the 4th pitch pillar, that was my pitch. RE: who's idea; it was somewhat funny how it came together. When it got cold here in June Lake (-21F) we were thinking ice!!!I wanted to guide WT, had a client lined up (very capable)and asked Dave if YMS would allow it. To his credit he did think about it before pointing out the risk/rewards were outside the company's interest. I tried pointing out that it was somewhat highend when I guided Astroman awhile back and this was similar. He pointed out that Astroman doesn't fall off.(he does have a good point here)So I asked him again the following day if I should come over with a client or a friend, he said friend. I asked him if he would be my friend. (yippee) Scotty and I had been in Canada recently climbing ice, he was on it when WT topic came up. (yippeeX2)
doug
Ed Bannister

Mountain climber
Victorville, CA
Jan 23, 2007 - 12:31pm PT
Beeyoootiful! Nice ascent and thanks for the pics.
dbcc in slo

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Jan 23, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
Amazing commitment and dedication!!

WOW! I hope you all had a burger and a beer when you were done!
keep looking up

Trad climber
ocean west
Jan 23, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
you guys are my soul & my heart's inspiration!
Keeper of Australia Mt

Trad climber
Whitehorse, Yukon , Canada
Jan 23, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
Awesome, ice climbing in Yosemite. Climatic cooling - bring it on! The next ice age will be rad and the Valley will be magical - pick-ure perfect. Keep it happening down there.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Jan 23, 2007 - 08:53pm PT
Damn!! I am so envious. That is the one ice climb I want to do before I die......I was in the Valley with Henry and others while Mark and Kevin scored the first ascentand have wanted to do it ever since. I'd fly there from here if I knew it was in shape. Good Job guys!!

Jack R
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 29, 2007 - 06:01pm PT
bump
dave

climber
Earth
Jan 29, 2007 - 09:33pm PT
Nice!
telemama

Trad climber
midpines
Feb 2, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
Awesome, guys! sure looks like fun!
Scotty Brown

climber
Apr 2, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
More route Photos on the California Alpine Guides website

-Scott

chappy

Social climber
ventura
Apr 2, 2007 - 03:09pm PT
Great stuff Scott. I have some photos from when Kev and I first did it that I will post soon. I also have some from when Ed Barry and I did the 3rd ascent. Much more alpine looking on those ascents than on yours. Again good job.
Chappy
Treefrog

Trad climber
Blountstown, FL
Apr 12, 2007 - 12:02pm PT

Hey Flanders! and Batrock,

I also knew Pete Schoerner, and he was indeed a great guy. I used to work with him part-time when I was a volunteer firefighter/EMT in Mammoth. I probably also knew Chris, as the name sounds very familiar, but can't remember a face to go with the name....getting old.

My personal rock-climbing god was another paramedic named Grey Alexander. Either of you know him, or what he's up to these days? Alas, I'm a Floridian now and have lost contact with west coast friends, and also can't climb here; it's too stinkin' flat!

Thanks,
Doug Harrell
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Jan 14, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
Hey Werner,

Any Ice Showing in the Valley this season?

Doug
Double D

climber
Jan 14, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
Wow, the bottom section looks really thin.

rockermike

Mountain climber
Jan 14, 2009 - 08:31pm PT
this should tell you something.

I think winter is over. Maybe even canceled.

http://www.wunderground.com/US/CA/Yosemite_National_Park.html
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jan 14, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
Water flow caused by warmer temps is just as important for The Tears to form as cold temps. The elusive perfect combination of those factors is what makes it happen.

So don't write it off for the year yet.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 14, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
There were a bunch of Kevin and Chappy's climbs that I wished I'd been in on BITD - but the Widow's Tears was not one of them. Scares the crap out of me just looking at the pics.

Awesome send, for all that have done it.

JL
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 14, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
atchafalaga, beautiful pics....Thanks! Lynne
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 15, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
THanks for bumping this one. Missed it the first time.

Awesome

Peace

Karl
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Oct 17, 2010 - 12:19am PT
Awesome
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Nov 20, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
Uberclassic awesomeness bump... sitting at home-listening to Bill Evans on the record player-sharpening my Quarks while drinking Talisker-bump

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2010 - 02:09am PT
There's some cold weather on the way and lots of snow on the rim.

Werner must have a prediction.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Dec 26, 2010 - 09:16am PT


my thoughts exactly Kevin......... Werner?



Doug
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
Temps have been moved up on the forecast...
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 26, 2010 - 12:46pm PT
Chappy,

Let's check out your FA and other photos of the Tears.
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 7, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
What a treat! Great photos too...

Cheers, Brian
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 30, 2011 - 03:15am PT
http://www.californiaalpineguides.com/Widows.html
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jan 30, 2011 - 05:12am PT
I'm shaking my head...that's awesome.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:33am PT
SICK!!!!11111

that's what I neeed to stoke my day!!


Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 6, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Bump for fully bonded ice.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 6, 2013 - 11:42am PT
Thought for sure we'd see some some action on the Tears this X-mas season. It got Cold, and there seemed to be plenty of water, hence ICE. Maybe more cold temps will follow .. .. .. ?
WBraun

climber
Jan 6, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
k-man

There was action.

2 Yosemite locals did a successful ascent a few days ago .....
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jan 6, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
Very cool! I just saw that Greg got his tools to the top. Very nice!
Congrats to the team...
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 6, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
hey you guys - I'd keep a close watch on the weather up coming.

This might work in your favor:

http://wxmaps.org/pix/avnmr.144hr.html
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Great job.....looks way sketchy!
delta bravo

Big Wall climber
a bad place
Jan 10, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
I missed this one first time around ..glad it
came up again ... you fellers have my respect !
11 pitches up , ice screw anchors , 1/2 " smears
wow...
Messages 1 - 96 of total 96 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews