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Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 15, 2018 - 09:49am PT
Hi Trump,

Sorry for the confusion bro. Here’s how it went down.

-5:30am p3 ZM a rock bounced off the porta-ledge followed by a pile of sand.

-we didn’t rush to bail. But instead considered our options over coffee and tried to process the idea of bailing. (In hindsight we should have gotten the f*#k out of there ASAP) After hemming and hawing about being a couple of pussies, bailing seemed like the right thing to do so we rapped off the route with our kit that morning. It took a few hours to get down safely.

-we had 7 days of time allotted for the climb and we were still keen on getting on El Cap so we left our gear at the base under the boulders.

-went back to the meadow and spent the day resting and chatting with monkeys.

 Inspired by beers and some energetic young guns, we hatched a plan to climb Zodiac in a push with a 4 man team.

-next day we racked and hiked back up to fix 2 pitches of Zod

-blasted up Zod at 3am

-at about 4:30-5pm that evening we were up to pitch 9 on Zodiac. We heard the rumble and saw the huge blocks fall off pitch 5 of ZM.

So the big rockfall happened a day in a half after that chunk of rock and sand scared us off the route. We were well out of the way on Zodiac.

There was however a Euro soloist fixing on the first pitch of ZM when the rockfall happened. I heard from Tom that the house size boulders flew right over his head and he was unharmed. Needless to say he bailed.

This was all about two weeks after the big “whale” fell off on Waterfall route. And just a couple days after another rock fall on p2 of Tangerine trip.

El Cap seemed awake and angry. A spooky season up there!

That’s me down there in the green helmet/red jacket. I had a clear view of the rockfall and had climbed ZM and Shortest Straw before so I knew exactly which feature fell off. The loose pillar directly above the p5 anchors that is shown in the Topo with A3r hooks to 5.9 loose free climbing. I suspect that is all gone.

Zenyatta Mondatta p5 Rockfall
Zenyatta Mondatta p5 Rockfall
Credit: Lambone

Trad climber
Apr 15, 2018 - 01:19pm PT
Great story, Lambone. What I got out of it this time was a more succinct definition of ‘luck’—for me, of course.

As I mentioned to Tom several pages back in discussing his experience, I, too, have experienced obscene degrees of protection all my life. As I also said then, it took coming face to face with a manifestation of the power behind that protection, to bring it to an infant recognition which has developed and blossomed into undeniable certainty through continued association. An indispensable component of the development of that certainty has been a concurrent awakening and development of the same, latent spark that resides within all human beings.

By ‘same spark’, I’m referring to the fact that Soul, the Master, the Sound Current, and the supreme deity are all composed of the same essence. When the Master and His Sound Current ignite the spark, the journey begins—the drop to the ocean.

Mind/ego, on the other hand, channels the universal mind power, as it always has and always will. This power is the antithesis of Soul, Master, Sound Current, and the Divine. A generous, yet truthful way of expressing that, is that the universal mind power is a powerful guard to the market of love. If the soul truly desires to be reunited with its own divinity, it has to want it really, really badly, and recruit a control and pinpointedness beyond imagination, Jim. That desire defines the epitome of sincerity. Because mind/ego will be doing all in its considerable power (after all, it rules the entire, lower three planes) to thwart, hide, delay, mislead, confuse, and divert, soul from its mission.

If the hapless soul is in the company of a Sat Guru, it’s ‘chances’ of success instantly expand exponentially. Not that it’s a done deal. Meeting a Sat Guru doesn’t guarantee anything—it’s merely the ‘opportunity of a lifetime’.

So, from that qualified vantage point, I would say:

Luck, is the mind/ego’s refusal to admit the presence of the divine within.

Human’s are far more comfortable assigning Godhood to, say, a piece of rock (which is merely experiencing entropy) than to divinity, which quietly resides in their own cranium.

By the way, Lambone, that huge, clean, white triangle of granite above your heads—surrounded by darker, more sinister rock. What do you suppose at one time occupied that space where the white granite now resides? Truth continually places itself directly in front of our faces. As a chela I know says, whaddaya want, a PHONE CALL?!!!!

It’s when we recognize the non-existence of luck, that our ‘fortune’ begins to skyrocket.

Does that appease your sensitivities, Werner?

I have no fear of speaking the truth. I have serious concerns about offending the Master and Divine Will.

Balcarce, Argentina
Apr 16, 2018 - 04:16am PT
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