Scarpa Maestro: The new TC PRO???

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2018 - 02:55pm PT
Has anyone had a chance to try these out yet? They are making them in sizes up to eu50. . . according to backcountrygear.com I've always wished TC Pro's came in size 47. . . so hopefully the Maestro Mid fits and climbs damn near the same as the TC Pro.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 19, 2018 - 03:47am PT
They look lower
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2018 - 09:14am PT


If scarpa is smart then they likely copied the TC Pro. . . they look like the same height to me. . .
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 19, 2018 - 02:40pm PT
I hope it’s less clunky.

Personally, I would rather deal with the ocassional bloody ankle bone then wear any of the high tops I’ve seen so far going back to the Kaukulator.
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2018 - 02:44pm PT
The size 48?
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 19, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
Interesting, I'll have to check that out. I'm more of a Scarpa foot than a Sportiva foot, TC Pro's just don't feel right on my feet. Of course a pair of Boreal Ballet Golds and Evolv Astromans probably have the category well covered for me, so the smart man might not pursue the question.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Feb 20, 2018 - 01:50am PT

The Maestri is a stiffer version that is good for aid. Comes with a coupon for $30 off a when combined with a compressor purchase.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 20, 2018 - 05:15am PT
Still looks lower,....

The only way to tell is with a foot in it!

Beware, lateral malleoulus carnage!
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2018 - 06:30am PT
The height of the TCPro isn't my biggest concern, I'm more of a length kind of guy.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Feb 20, 2018 - 08:22am PT
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-La-Sportiva-Italy-Mens-Size-46-5-EU-Blue-Leather-Ankle-Rock-Climbing-Shoes/272846630880?hash=item3f86ed2fe0:g:EO8AAOSwNJ9Zud~D:sc:USPSPriority!94131!US!-1"]http://https://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-La-Sportiva-Italy-Mens-Size-46-5-EU-Blue-Leather-Ankle-Rock-Climbing-Shoes/272846630880?hash=item3f86ed2fe0:g:EO8AAOSwNJ9Zud~D:sc:USPSPriority!94131!US!-1[/url]

justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 20, 2018 - 08:34am PT
Looks promising- you'll have to get back to us with a report.

I've got foot issues so I need a stiffer shoe. TC Pros are a bit too stiff and the wrong shape for my foot - so they are pretty uncomfortable.

I rotate and constantly resole 6 pairs of Grandstones and one pair of JB Hightops while the climbing shoe industry figures out a suitable replacment...which hasn't materialized yet. Really wish they would just re-instate the Grandstones.

skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2018 - 08:49am PT
The TC PRo is $185, and only goes up to size 46. . . so for $5 more the fact that they are building all the way up to size 50eu is great for me, but I don't expect as much from my shoes as you do Jebus...
msiddens

Trad climber
Feb 20, 2018 - 09:42am PT
Consider me curious. Butora’s are close but not quite it. As much as I like them I’m willing to give these a go. $190......
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
Feb 20, 2018 - 09:47am PT
I'm in! Sportivas don't fit my feet right and I have lamented how I had to pass on the Kaukulators back in the day and later the TC Pros. My favorite pair of shoes ever were some 90s era Scarpa Edges. I rotated a couple of pairs of those for as long as I could. $190 is a lot, though everything seems crazy expensive now...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 20, 2018 - 10:23am PT
I also have astromans and the high top Buturas.

The Astro are a floppy non technical, wide shoe, stiffness is made by your foot basically on the sole. Very little mid/insole. For me they are too wide at the length that fits me, so I can't really edge with them. Also they are made for people with flat feet, and I have a big space under the arch of my foot. I think of them, for my style foot, as an invert only shoe, like the Acopa jb's were. Ymmv

The Buturas are a much better made, higher tech shoe. Unfortunately I have the wide, green, ones and I need the brown, narrow version. They were the only ones in my size at a deal @ OR that I couldn't pass up! Will report back when I get the narrows....
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
I picked up the Butora Wide Low top (Mantra) with the board lasted sole. . . in a size "14" which ended up being just as tight as my 46 TC Pros. . . I'm still pretty pissed about that, and they removed my review from Butoras website. . .so now people will continue not knowing what size they should order.

Too bad even the bigger brick & mortar climbing shops like eastside sports or even rei refuse to carry bigger sizes in climbing shoes besides beginner models.

I'm excited that Scarpa is making a low top version of the Maestro, hopefully they both fit me well, the Katana lace Up (supposedly uses the same last as TC Pro) scrunches my foot in the weirdest way and causes the bones in the arch of my feet to scream at me when climbing. . .

Living on the Eastside makes me believe that the TC Pro is one of the more popular shoes around, but maybe thats just because I live in a "granite bubble" where everyone wears TC's. You'd think Sportiva would make a 47 and 48 in the more popular technical shoes, not just the beginner shoes.

If the Maestro shoes climb as well as the TC Pro and the sizing fits me correctly then I'll definately drop the dough to stock up on them, I'm sick of having to painfully break in TC Pros just to have a good climbing shoe. . . and once it breaks in I only have a few months of climbing before it needs a resole, which tends to f0ck up the fit of my shoes. . . especially the expensive places like the rubber room.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 21, 2018 - 11:57am PT
Who can afford any of these? Hopefully the scarpas are better and cheaper.
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2018 - 12:47pm PT
The Maestro is retailing for $190. . . I don't like the price, but anytime I've tried to save money by buying asian or US made climbing shoes I've regretted it. . . so I'll just try to find the best price I can in the italian made shoe. . .and hope it lasts a while. Climbing is not a poor mans sport, unless your job is in climbing. . . and the pro deals are plentiful.
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Feb 21, 2018 - 01:08pm PT
Adjusted for inflation, shoes are much cheaper now than when I started (early 90s). They're quite a bit better too (although early 90s shoes were not bad by any means). I cant's say about earlier times, but I strongly suspect that shoes were even more expensive (in real terms) before I started.

I have a few pairs of TC Pros in the rotation so may be a while for me, but Maestro definitely looks like a contender for that style of shoe.
skitch

Gym climber
Bend Or
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2018 - 01:22pm PT
I remember high end climbing shoes were around $120-$140 the year I started climbing (2000), how much did a high end shoe cost in 1990? According to this Inflation Calculator $100 in 1990 is equivalent to $190 now. . .
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