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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2018 - 12:38pm PT
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Well, another Courtright season is shortly upon us and the guide has been out there for a season. I've received a lot a great feedback on a new effort to try to record and guide to routes in the area with the knowledge that there will be a lot of corrections and additional information becoming available as time goes on.
First thanks for all of the feedback. I feel a lot more comfortable that the guide is generally doing it's job. Secondly keep it coming!
I will post corrections and new details on a Courtright update thread as they come in and are verified. This will hopefully serve as providing contemporary information on the area as well as become a basis for a future update.
Again, thanks to all who helped out on this project. It wouldn't have happened without you.
Regards, dwight
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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cool, thx Dwight.
Have you thought about having a specific web site for updates?
CourtrightClimbing.com ...
"The domain you are researching is available for registration"
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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That's the dam and Power Dome almost at the right edge.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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The ultimate destination in the summer when it's 106F in Merced!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jody, your pictures always blow me away.
I've been working with the Nikon set-up I told you about. It's taken me a while to wrap my brain around this camera. It offers up a myriad of ways to shoot and I'm narrowing it down to the several that I think will work for me.
I got some nice things out of it in King's Cyn, but everything I have from Courtright is point and shoot.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Wow Jody,
So many unreal photos. The view out to the High Sierra off Trapper Dome is especially compelling.
Kris, where is the photo you show of the reservoir from a distance, it looks too far south for Dogtooth? That ridge above and behind Cliff Lake or an airplane?
Thanks for rekindling great memories of a lovely destination.
Road could be opening early this year?
Dave
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
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Jody, you, Kris, Randy Wenzel, Epperson and so many others have captured the magic of this place in images. Whats so cool is that it's not climber shots but Courtright! climbing just happens to happen here. Here's a photo of my buddy tree.
Where I want my ashes to go!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Kris, where is the photo you show of the reservoir from a distance,
There's a high point, a lesser peak but with prominence called Spread Eagle up west of Trapper. A very nice short hike/scramble with, as you can see, fine views.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I saw a guy there guiding some nubies on that thing. He was walking up and down alonside them giving instructions.
Here's that Spread Eagle feature from up behind Locke Rock...
That's Leopold Dome in the valley, Spread Eagle high on the skyline.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Another vote for a Courtright website !
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Doesn't hold a candle to Jody's photos, but nice perspective on Leopold (from the base of Locke):
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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This thread is great! The only new stuff I've done up there was with Dave Fries and he has all the beta to share, which I'm sure he will.
Dwight, remember when I asked about some old bolts on a remote formation that's not in the guide? I never figured out where they came from but Brandon Thau and I added a fantastic route to that rock if your guide ever extends its boundaries.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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I've only been there a couple times, but I love that place. Thanks for all the beautiful images to soothe me through a gray NW February.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Dwight, remember when I asked about some old bolts on a remote formation that's not in the guide?
Terror Dome......cough cough.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 07:39am PT
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Hey there Jody. Vernon had it as Voyager Rock. I included as a "Dome". Don't know why...I guess most others were domes and I missed the rock thing...anyway they're one in the same.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 07:48am PT
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[photoid=523636]
Here's the completed Geek'n Hard on Dome with a View from last summer. Raping in is cool but with a 70 meter with knots on the end. Nuts and cams to 3" augments bolts and builds the belay at the end of pitch 2.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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oops, forgot the topo. Second and third pitches new as of summer 17. .7-.8
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2018 - 05:36pm PT
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A couple routes from last summer ('17) with Glenn McHam, Slick Watts and Lori Parnagian. The left route is a Loomis route from the 80's...runout and YIKES!...of course!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2018 - 05:40pm PT
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From Stephen McCabe...
We did both the first two pitches of Saint of Circumstances in succession. I only added one bolt: to the 5.8 runout section on the first pitch, so later parties could avoid a ledge fall. Was that the first time the entire first pitch was actually climbed? If so, we could add Justin Marion to the first ascent team, I suppose?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2018 - 10:11pm PT
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Yeah Stephen, I think you guys got the first on that pitch.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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The left route is a Loomis route from the 80's...runout and YIKES!...of course!
Here's a point of interest. I've pow wow'd with both Loomy and Herb on some of their runout routes. Without hesitation and on their own accord, mentioned they'd gladly go back to "fix" a few of those runout routes. The reasons pretty much center on wanting folks to enjoy challenging routes without the eminent threat of death or life-altering injuries. Can't AND won't mention what routes were discussed but they have true convictions about it. BTW, Herb is leaving for Arizona to build a home there, leaving the great state of California in his rear view mirror. Moving in about 6 to 8 months. Climb with him while you can.....
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Christopher Bersbach
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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Jul 23, 2018 - 02:54pm PT
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It was great to meet you up at Courtright this weekend, Dwight. I this the right place to share notes, corrections, etc.? Below are some that come to mind. Not all of these are guidebook revisions, but may be useful beta for people, depending on what y'all are planning to romp up.
* My personal opinion is that Pitch 3 of Battle Apple is every bit of 10d. This may change as the slab cleans up, but it's tough in its current state. And as I discussed with Dwight, another bolt before the anchor probably wouldn't substantially diminish the aesthetic of the route.
* Pitches 4 and 5 of Welcome to Courtright link comfortably to the top with a 70m rope.
* Many of the routes on the East Face of Power Dome topo say something like "3rd/4th to top" after the second or third pitch, but the ones I've been on have felt more like easy 5th. Speaking just for myself, I definitely stay roped up for a top-out pitch on the ones I've done. Not a big deal, but it was a surprise the first time I was up there.
* It seems really hit or miss as to whether there will be rap rings/quicklinks on many of the anchors on Penstemon. We've left a number of leavers on anchor bolts on our descents, and I'd recommend that folks who don't want to be dismantling draws on their descent bring a few spare links.
I hope these notes are helpful.
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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Jul 24, 2018 - 11:23am PT
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Thanks for the info about Courtright, Chris. Just curious how the air quality was when you were out there this last weekend? Feel any smoke from the Ferguson fire?
Thanks in advance.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2018 - 05:44pm PT
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Hey Chris good to see you up there.
Yeah for now I hope folks would post observations and corrections on this thread and thanks for your notes.
Man, it was great seeing the climbing activity up there the last couple weekends, although Yosemite getting smoked probably changed a lot of plans to Courtright. Last weekend was beautiful but the smoke seems really hit or miss.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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I was up there this last weekend. The level of smoke increase and decreases during the day depending up how and where the wind is blowing. I never felt the smoke was too intense.
The far right end of Power Dome West Face has a new route I put up on July 6, 2018. The route is "Summertime Sadness" which is probably around 5.4-5.5. This route is best approached by hiking around the east face of Power Dome and then down to the white dike. Walk out to the end of the white dike at the end of the 2nd/3rd class section and belay at a single bolt. The first pitch traverses up and left past one bolt over about 60-70 feet of fourth class to a two bolt belay. The second pitch goes up about 165-175 feet past five bolts to a two bolt belay/rappel station. You could possibly climb unprotected up 4th- and less- class to a tree for a third pitch and then walk off, but I rappelled back down both pitches to the start. Both anchors equipped with rappel rings. FA Mark Fletcher, rope solo and ground up. This route is to the right of the route "Beyond All Expectations".
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carlaftw
Trad climber
San Jose, California
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Ended up at courtright this last weekend and had almost perfect conditions. Saturday (08/04) was a bit smoky in the early afternoon but Sunday was perfect. Hard to know what the winds will do.
We climbed Power Dome Saturday (Welcome to Courtright) and Sunday we spent time at Trapper. Didn't see any other groups! Just stellar climbing!!
We did the rappel approach for Welcome to Courtright on the west face and that involved some exposed ~4th class scrambling. We tried to do a full 70 m rap but stopped on a ledge about 10 m above the ends of the ropes because the slabs we would have ended up on looked a little scary. The book does say you'll end up on 3rd class slab that is sketchy in the early season but it looked easier to come off rappel at the ledge and find our way. We were able to traverse to the route and didn't have too much trouble.
It was my first time at Courtright Reservoir and it did not disappoint. I have no idea why more people don't come here. Thanks for everyone's efforts in routes/guides/etc!!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Good to see people are getting up there. Glad you had a good time Carlaftw I climbed up there Saturday and the smoke in the morning was heavy duty around Power Dome.
It made for some nice spooky photos though!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2018 - 11:37am PT
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2018 - 11:39am PT
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2018 - 11:40am PT
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2018 - 12:29pm PT
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[photo[photoid=536738]id=536737]
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2018 - 12:30pm PT
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Aug 21, 2018 - 12:37pm PT
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Hey Dwight -
Hoping to join up with you and Stephen in the coming weeks. No can do this weekend but hoping to wrangle up plans with Stephen in early Sept. Will share via email.
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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