Trip Report
Dogtooth Peak (Finally!)
Tuesday September 5, 2017 5:51pm
Dogtooth Peak has been on the tick list a long time. It seemed there was always something else that got in the way or another project to do first. Dwight’s Courtright GB got the stoke going again when I saw the awesome picture of it in his GB. I had hiked to the top in 2014 with some work friends but it only gave me more fuel.
Guide Book Pic
Guide Book Pic
Credit: DaveyTree
The weekend of the Courtright gathering, Paul and I tried to make a run at it. Our plan was to leave Fresno Thursday evening, hike in at night and then Climb and hike out on Friday to meet everyone showing up. On the drive up it was raining pretty good and we scratched the plan. Eluded me once again.

This last week I was planning to go climbing at Courtright and had the idea of trying again. I sent a few texts and Eric Swanson was in. Matt Schutz and Julie Tran also joined the group. The plan: drive up Friday eve and hike in. Climb Saturday and hike out Sunday. Carpooling up Friday evening I wondered if something would once again keep the summit. We got to the trailhead to find about 30 cars in the lot. I assumed it was because of all the fires in other areas.

We set off and had nice cool temps for the moderate 5.5 hike in. We arrived around 1:15 in the morning, set up sleeping bags and busted out the whiskey. Matt shared it was his birthday weekend which I hoped was a sign of good luck for an ascent.

Matt and Julie planned to head up a line on the north tooth to the left of #A on the topo pic. I shared my desire for the middle tooth with no routes on it. Sleep came quick with the vitamin W. I tossed and turned most of the night and was awake before anyone else.
BFL Wall
BFL Wall
Credit: DaveyTree
I love hiking in at night because of the unexpected views you get when you awake the first morning. My first view was the lake and a wall on the NW side of the lake. It looked 2-3 pitches and room for many fun routes. I got some water and soon found out that my batteries for the steripen I brought were dead. No one had AA batteries so prime lake water was the cocktail. (Still no signs so we are in the clear. If I grow another ear I will let you know).

We had a relaxing morning and breakfast and geared up.
The approach to the south side of the dome was a 10 minute traverse. Featured rock was everywhere and lines popped out with each step.
As we rounded the south tooth the middle and north tooth came into view. WOW!
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
We stopped in the shade of a large pine at the base of the middle tooth and discussed potential lines as we lusted over all the options.
Credit: DaveyTree
Matt and Julie continued on to the north tooth to find their stoke.

Since it was shaded at the base by the tree we decided to head up from there, I was hoping the route would go all trad because I really didn’t want to hand drill. The crack system and books looked plentiful and I hoped for the best as I got to take P1: 60m up slightly right to belay at a solid crack/flake.5.4/5.
Credit: DaveyTree
Eric was at the belay in short order and he headed up P2. He headed up toward a bush and had to down climb a bit and traverse left of the bush to find a belay at 60m 5.5.
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
P3 was a blast and the rock started to turn gold. Straight up and belay about 80’ right of a pine tree 5.6.
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Eric headed up P4 traversing slightly left then up a nice crack system with a fun under cling to a stem over a mini roof. 60m @ 5.7. I got to the belay and Eric shanged the belay to tricams to save me the cams for the next pitch. Needed those.
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
P5 was the crux with multiple little roofs and corners. Fun climbing led me to a crack/flake at 55m where I had brutal rope drag from a sharp corner and the fact that I had short slung a key spot because I got a bit sketched with a dirty spot going over a mini roof as the rain started. I also had two aliens that fit with only one #3 BD left for pro beside nuts. I belayed Eric up on the two solid Aliens . As he climbed I feared the rain was again going to keep me from the sumit. I prayed in earnest and the rain subsided to a very light sprinkle and the sun started to come out. Eric arrived at the belay and I had him move it 15’ up to where I wanted to go making the pitch 60m 5.8.
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
We had a bench seat for the belay so we stopped and ate and we shared a 5 hr energy. Eric was soon off on P6 and I could hear him yelling “Pockeets!” in his chicken voice. I knew he had found another pocket on the route. At 60m he anchored and belayed me up to a flat area near the top 5.7.
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree

We untied and soloed a few boulder moves and then some easy stuff to the tip top another 100’+, 5.6. We were stoked to have done the line and I was honored to have successfully finally made it to the top of something on the tick list. I was so pumped it all went trad and I did not have to hand drill.

Matt and Julie were on the top of the north tooth, the highest of all three. Probably about 30-50’ higher than our top out. Eric and I were able to scramble down to the notch on the west side and walked over and up to the north tooth. We exchanged high fives and signed the summit reg. in the tin can.
Credit: DaveyTree
We scrambled down and took the saddle between the middle and west tooth through another saddle on the south side of the west tooth for a view of Cliff, Bullfrog and Christian Lake.
Cliff Lake
Cliff Lake
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
More 50' Hallway walls
More 50' Hallway walls
Credit: DaveyTree
More scramble led us to the walk off down to Bullfrog, more whiskey and a toast to FA’s and Friendship. Happy Birthday Matt!
Credit: DaveyTree
Matt and Julie shared their line was 4P since they easily walked up two pitches of apron to where the climbing started. His line went at 5.9 and started to the left #A and finished on the saddle between the final moves to the tip top of the north (tallest) tooth and the hallway.

That night my sleep was full of content and tired bones. We hit the trail around 9:15 and were back by 12:30ish to the parking lot where there was literally about 50-60 cars.
Bunt Cake on hike out
Bunt Cake on hike out
Credit: DaveyTree
Jurassic Mushrooms
Jurassic Mushrooms
Credit: DaveyTree
Shrooms
Shrooms
Credit: DaveyTree
Awesome trip! Well worth the hike.

Pocket Rain Dance (Middle Dogtooth): 5.8, 7P @ 1,300’. Pro: Nuts, tricams to brown, cams to #4 BD and we had a set of link cams. (FA: Fries/Swanson 09/02/17)


***I know, I know, Sorry for the kinked necked pics. Techno challenged here.

  Trip Report Views: 1,377
DaveyTree
About the Author
DaveyTree is a trad climber from Fresno.

Comments
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DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2017 - 05:52pm PT
Pocket Rain Dance
Pocket Rain Dance
Credit: DaveyTree
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Sep 5, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
Davy.... way to get after it!
It is a grand thing to do a FA when you traveled to just do some established climb.
When the adventure kicks in.
Winemaker

Sport climber
Yakima, WA
  Sep 5, 2017 - 06:51pm PT
Nice trip. My neck is kinked from you photos though.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Sep 5, 2017 - 07:00pm PT
Nice report, looks like you all had a great day!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Sep 5, 2017 - 07:03pm PT
Sweet! I climbed a route a few years ago out there...does Matt's climb end on some cool stemming in an overhanging corner/roof?
My friends the nett day say they ran into matt and some friends, so must have been you!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 5, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
That looks cool, thank you for sharing. Woot!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2017 - 08:13pm PT
Jeremy, that was us on the trail. You will have to ask Matt the details to his route. It sounds like a different top out but not sure. Post you line if you can.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
  Sep 5, 2017 - 08:58pm PT
Very cool.

Dog's tooth is on my list too.

Moose
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Sep 6, 2017 - 06:14am PT
Great trip report and photos, thanks.

Did the Beckey rt out there once..beautiful place.
The Beckey legend just grows and grows...

Went back later and did the walkup with the kids...fun!

I think we were there once trying to avoid Yosemite smoke...
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Sep 6, 2017 - 07:09am PT
Cheers!

DMT
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
  Sep 6, 2017 - 11:33am PT
Nice!

Climbed (hiked) that thing when I was 14 ('72?) with a bunch of Sierra Clubbers and didn't remember how cool it looks.

Need to go back.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Sep 6, 2017 - 11:35am PT
Nice stuff! That featured rock definitely calls out to me.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 6, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
Nice route fellas! Glad you got that monkey off your back Davey. Bummed I couldn't join. Thanks for the invite though!

Scott
BigB

Trad climber
Red Rock
  Sep 6, 2017 - 12:19pm PT
sweet!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Sep 6, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
Hell, I doubt the route we climbed hadn't been climbed before. Probably really only needed to rope up for the last pitch or two if I remember correctly.

Is that Eagle Peak in the "Cliff Lake" shot?
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Sep 7, 2017 - 03:23pm PT
Awesome TR. Always heard good things about this peak, but now seeing the photos I know why.

doing a backpack trip out there in a couple weeks. Now maybe I should bring the climbing gear.

does anyone have any info on the cliff lake routes?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 6, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
Really nice Job 👍👊
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Author's Reply  Sep 6, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
Matt and Julie's route is called Gin and Juice.
Gin and Juice is the green lines
Gin and Juice is the green lines
Credit: DaveyTree

Jeremy, the pic with the wall by the lake is Cliff Lake, not Eagle.

Split, I only know that some of the cracks at Cliff Lake have been climbed. I have never studied them up close to see if there is any evidence. I seem to recall the people that mentioned routes being climbed could not remember which cracks or location on the walls. Seems like a lot choices on that wall which runs the length of most of the lake and even further north past it.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Sep 6, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
I got dizzy looking at some of the pics.
You, can, go back and edit your post, Davey.

If you have a photo editing program
you can usually rotate the photo in the program and save it.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Sep 6, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to post all those photos & share your adventure trad report! I really like new route adventures!
susu

climber
East Bay, CA
  Sep 7, 2017 - 08:31am PT
Stoked for you guys! Props and thank you for sharing!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Sep 7, 2017 - 08:33am PT
Very cool! I hope to make it out to that thing some day. TFPU
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Sep 7, 2017 - 09:57am PT
About time, jeez.

That looks like a fun day out!

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