Have spring loaded camming devices replaced nuts?

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NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Dec 19, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
This is what Polish Moose protection looks like:



Moose... Bison... same thing when it’s dark enough and you’ve had enough booze. In any case, doable with or without nuts.

And Terry: have you considered cosmetic surgery for that cat?
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Dec 19, 2017 - 08:56pm PT
What cat? Honey is a Pugel - a cross between a Pug and a Beagle.

I post a more flattering picture of Honey with her kill to make her dogness obvious.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 19, 2017 - 10:54pm PT
Maybe this will be the year.

Mark your calendar for May 1st, 2018 - the first National Cam-Free Day!

 Test your skills and judgment!

 Time travel and re-live history!

 Experience 5.10 like never before!

 Take Grandpa and Grandma climbing - they've been dying to get out and show you how it's done!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 20, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
Passive protection will always have its place . . . I don't know of any cams that will replace old #0-4 Stoppers and RP's.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Dec 20, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
The death of craft and it's not just nostalgia - limiting your options by not taking nuts is just stupid. Maybe you can get away with this on some granite, but anywhere else I can't imaging leaving the ground without my HB doubles. I'll take a good nut over a cam every single time.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Dec 20, 2017 - 08:20pm PT
I like climbing with my nuts in my mouth. Try that with a blue Camalot...


And you can leave your cams in the car for this one...

Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Dec 21, 2017 - 08:23am PT
In my experience, cams can not always be relied on in alpine conditions. Multiple times I have been forced to hang in a desperate position as I tried to thaw a cam enough to hold even its own weight. I am confident that most of these placements were purely psychological protection, as they would never have expanded quickly enough to hold a fall.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 21, 2017 - 08:34am PT
So, have springs'n things replaced tools you need to know how to use? No!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 21, 2017 - 08:49am PT
Every so often a tied off pin or two can come in handy.

It’s a rainy day down here in Patagonia.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Dec 21, 2017 - 08:52am PT
Hey! Don't tell any one 'specially in the 'Junks', I still swing a hammer.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Dec 21, 2017 - 09:02am PT
All I can say is that I quite often lead a pitch and only place cams, but rarely, if ever, do I do a whole pitch and only place nuts. However, a sweet nut placement should not be ignored. But I never carry hexes.
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