Second Ascent of the North American Wall

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JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 15, 2017 - 08:28pm PT

Thanks, Don. The black and white photos in Ascent, Life and the Fresno Bee remain etched in my mind, because I was still a relatively new climber and ate up anything I could get about Valley climbing. Your "Dihedral Diary" in Summit was one of the first climbing articles I read, so I've always looked forward to your writing. You certainly haven't lost your touch.

Thanks again.

John

Chris Jones

Social climber

Glen Ellen, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 10:45am PT

Chatting with Dennis Hennek and Don as they racked up for the NA, I managed to keep quiet about the anxiety I was feeling. After all, this was the "hardest rock climb in the world." How could these two be up to the task? I remember taking a few snapshots, and thinking I might never see them again. Overblown on my behalf of course, but the NA had a fearsome reputation - by that time it was unrepeated for 4 years. I know I was scared - it was nowhere on my plan. The Nose, the Salathe, sure, but this took the 4 best climbers, and so on ...
I had climbed Yosemite Point Buttress with Dennis, and he was like many of us. Good enough, but the NA? But damn, they did it. It became a mental breakthrough for many. Chapeau to you two.

Don Lauria

Trad climber

Bishop, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2017 - 11:40am PT

Christopher,

Dennis and I used to joke about us being the "podunk climbers" - that after we did a climb, then everyone figured "If they did, then it couldn't be that difficult". To some degree that was true. We sorta opened the gates.

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Oct 17, 2017 - 11:47am PT

Incredible. One of the best threads this decade.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Oct 17, 2017 - 12:44pm PT

Beautifully writ story of a massive adventure. Thanks for taking the time to write up an historic ascent!

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 12:50pm PT

I hate overt and undeserved modesty!

Chris Jones

Social climber

Glen Ellen, CA

Oct 17, 2017 - 08:12pm PT

Well, I was not referred to as a podunk climber, but had a similar experience. In 1964 I teamed up with Nick Escourt, Steve Martin and Rupert Roshnik to climb the then-notorious Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses. Ours was the first ascent of the season, and perhaps the second or third time that Brits had done it. When we got back to Chamonix from Italy, every Brit with any pretensions was gearing up. The word was out that "some Cambridge twits" had done it, and a steady stream of would-be hard men set out from the Biolay campground, highly chagrined that they had been upstaged by college-educated twits.

(See "Upper Class Twit of the Year", a comedy sketch by Monty Python, for further details on twits. Not a term of endearment.)

guido

Trad climber

Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific

Oct 18, 2017 - 06:53pm PT

Trad climber

Calgary

Oct 18, 2017 - 07:40pm PT

This is what I love about climbing. When "Are we good enough for this?" doubts become "That wasn't as bad as we thought it would be"
Especially in the first few years when it is mostly a mystery.
Maybe Bridwell was right "There are no legends only rock climbs"
3 best moments of my life
1. first time laid
2. birth of first child
3. first 5.10