Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
|
My memory is weak, but I think I climbed with him in Josh or Tahquitz.
Condolences to his family.
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2017 - 06:25pm PT
|
F*#K
Thanks for posting kris
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2017 - 06:37pm PT
|
so sorry to hear about this, I hadn't climbed with Randy, but we ran into each other at climber gatherings.
I was always in awe of his images, wonderful.
here at the Bachar Memorial
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2017 - 11:09pm PT
|
If anybody knows what happened, please let us know. At the moment, this just feels like a vacuum.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2017 - 09:04am PT
|
I just emailed you, Richard.
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2017 - 09:29am PT
|
Got it. Thank you much, Pete.
SO sad! I can't even imagine how his family must be feeling. SO sad!
|
|
Ashley Wenzel
Mountain climber
Tifton
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2017 - 04:59pm PT
|
Hello, I'm Randy Wenzels daughter Ashley Wenzel. I just found out he passed and I want to know exactly what happened. Can someone please contact me.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2017 - 05:57pm PT
|
Ashley - the email here doesn't work.
Email me at passthepitonspete at hot mail dot com or message me Peter Zabrok at FB.
|
|
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 28, 2017 - 09:07pm PT
|
I trolled him once by saying he was PTPP's rack caddy.... hahaha, he said he was going to straight up kick my ass. Loved it... after that we had a few nice emails and posts around the interwebs. RIP to Ran... a talented and good guy.
|
|
mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2017 - 11:37am PT
|
Just remembered a fond memeory when Ran and I went to the Cookie to do 'Stigma' and its rarely done 2nd pitch (A3). Ran did the first pitch all on aluminum nuts. Having fixed the pitch, I jugged up to him and prepared to come face to face with pitch #2. Having gone up to the arching thin crack, I prepped to head up to the roof above that only provides a thin flaring seam. By the looks of things, I could see a few "fixed" c-heads but looked like it had been awhile since someone had gone through. Onward and upward, I found the first few moves required a few heads to be placed before reaching a beefy fixed aluminum. Paste and hash, paste and hash...I reach the fixed piece and clip it. I check it one last time before stepping up. *SNAP!!*.....off I go, zipping all of my pieces until I reach a sporty 1/4", 25' below. Ran yells up, "Well, that looked like fun....". But no sooner that I could get up to the bolt, the hanger snaps and I fall onto a small cam 15 further.....just 10' before the belay. I'll never forget Ran calmly say, "Do you do lap dances?"
*the bolt hanger is gone but a rusty, downward facing 1/4" stud is left. Made for an exciting nut cable tie off....
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
|
This little story (which could use a good editor) describes a particularly memorable day with Randy.
BLACK PRESIDENT
Joshua Tree National Park
The morning of December 13th, 2008 broke crisp, clear, and windy. A winter storm was moving through Southern California, but the skies over Joshua Tree were blue while the surrounding mountains got snow and rain. Barbara Taylor, Randy Wenzel and I were each in our own private worlds as we hiked out past the old ruins known to climbers as Uncle Willie’s Health Food Store. From here our path took us deep into the “Wonderland of Rocks," a crazy maze of crags, boulders and canyons where climbers often spend as much time getting lost as they do climbing. Our mission was to climb and photograph the classic climb called “Black President,” a plan we had cooked up while chatting around a campfire a few weeks earlier. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but this morning as I took measure of the cold gusty winds I hoped this climb would be within my pay grade.
Black President was first climbed in December of 1984 by Craig Fry, Dave Evans and Dave Bruckman. The year had special significance thanks to George Orwell, but it was also the year that Afro Beat music, pioneered by the amazing Nigerian musician Fela Kuti really hit in America. Kuti’s breakthrough album was called Black President, and it inspired the naming of this climb.
Fry, Evans and Bruckman did many great new routes in Josh, and this one is a classic in every regard. It features two very different cruxes. The first is a section of tricky, thin face climbing protected by a single bolt. Then comes a system of steep arching crack climbing which leads up to a wild finish.
Our hike took us out past the Astrodomes, and into an obscure side canyon with large prickly pear cactus gardens wherever it widened enough for them to get good sun. Some of these spikey patches could be avoided by going around the side on rocks. Others had to be cautiously waded through. Finally we arrived at the formation we were looking for, The Elephant Arches.
Randy sized things up and decided the best location to shoot from would be the top of the climb, looking down. The most direct way up there is some very exposed easy 5th class climbing, right up the crest of the arches. A particularly strong gust made me thankful it would be him up there with a huge pack full of camera and rigging equipment, while I could focus on leading with the relative safety of the rope. Randy chose not to get blown off the exposed arches, preferring the security of a heinous chimney. He hauled his pack up with a rope. About the time I thought I should go looking for him he stuck his head over the top and began setting up for the shoot.
The climb begins above a sea of cactus. The opening moves are easy, but the prickly landing zone is disconcerting. Above, a thin move past a bolt leads to an easy crack which ends below the first crux at a horizontal feature about halfway up the pitch. I stepped up on the horizontal and then once more into a scoop from where I could clip the bolt. Looking up from there I watched as Randy was blown off his feet. I needed a miracle. The wind would have to stop for about a minute for me to get through this section of delicate face moves. I could deal with the wind in the cracks above but if a gust like the one which just knocked Randy over came through while I was on the steep slab I would be airborne for sure.
Standing in my scoop, I waited. The wind stopped. I set off climbing the slab. A high crimp for the left hand get things going, and tricky footwork leads up to a scalloped hold for the right hand. Press through with more good footwork and you gingerly rock onto your right foot in the scallop. Things were looking up. More than a body length above the bolt I placed a nice cam. Right on cue, as I got into the crack above with good protection, the gusts resumed with a new furor. I stemmed wide with my feet, locked off the fingers and finished the pitch while Randy struggled to keep his balance, hanging over the edge taking pictures.
The wind had increased by now and the sun was getting low. Barbara and Randy wanted nothing to do with more human kite experiments, so Randy and I rappelled down and we all hiked out in the fading light.
|
|
nature
climber
Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
|
Awe f*#k man.... Never met Ran but his nick here on ST is one of my all time favorite words. We were friends on facebook and shared conversation about food and sushi. This one sorta came out of left field.
rest in peace, Ran.
Condolences to all that were blessed to know him.
think I need a glass of wine...
"Do you do lap dances?". bwahahahahahashaaahahaaa... thanks for the laugh mooch!
|
|
Friend
climber
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
|
That's a great climb. I'd love to see one/some of those pictures Kris. RIP Randy.
|
|
TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2017 - 04:11pm PT
|
So sorry to here this. Kris, I was looking for that photo of Randy, you, Lauren and I. Cant find it. Do you have a copy?
Condolences to all.. Sad indeed.
TY
|
|
Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
|
May your next world be even more beautiful than you last...RIP Ran
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2017 - 05:20pm PT
|
I'd love to see one/some of those pictures Kris...
The pics are great (what else would you expect.) I feel a bit odd about showing them here. This thread is about, with respect and sadness, Randy. If there were a "Randy Wenzel photos" thread it would be another story. I don't have enough, or the best, of Randy's work to kick that one off...
Edit, Tony was that up here at my place? I'll look but no promises.
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
Our penultimate day together.
Sigh.
Beers in the meadow.
Good ol' Randy. I could never call him Ran.
|
|
Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Durango ColoRADo
|
|
|
Oct 11, 2017 - 11:45am PT
|
Was trying to get ahold of Randy for some photos he took on our Zion canyoneering trip in 09. Just learned of his passing. Really sad to hear. He was a deep and talented guy. I'll admit we haven't spoken in years. He introduced my to canyoneering and took these pics of me on the same trip:
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!