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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:45am PT
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And bunch of other peep's
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2017 - 07:46am PT
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It's a trad climb with some bolts. You can protect the opening moves to the first bolt with a couple of very thin stoppers. Somewhere up there (after the third bolt?) is a perfect placement for a #5 Rock stopper (+- 1/2".) Bracket that size from 3-6 depending on how you see the fit. But it's good. Not a crack, a sort of pocket behind an ear of rock on the face.
I remember walking up to PTN 10 years ago and uttering, "Frickin' sandbag!" LOL! I tried the first opening moves and got two thin wires in, fell on the second wire. Clawed my way up to the first bolt, threw on a leaver biner and tucked my tail between my legs. Definitely .11+. Now, I'll be happy if I can just get out of the chair and not forget my beer.
ruppel -
I went in this past weekend as a recon trip. Still lots to do out there. a few "mums the word" projects in progress.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2017 - 01:11pm PT
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threw on a leaver biner
I'll bet it's still there.
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 12, 2017 - 04:33pm PT
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I'll bet it's still there.
I'll grab it next time I'm down there. lol
Mooch
You could have four projects on every formation and there'd still be stuff to do. Errr, I mean that place is climbed out and has sh!t rock. Stay away. lol
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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LOL! Yah, stay away Bumper Belay Bozos.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 13, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
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Top of the rectory
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 13, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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Valley of the shadow of death below.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 16, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
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Here's a departure, but not a thread drift. Someone emailed me re: the area in the NW DL; Columbia Dome to be more exact. Brought back some memories of this remote area. Anyone done Kaopectate Blues? I believe that route has the longest/best .7 to .9 finger/hand crack in the SSierra that nobody knows about. It's probably over 500 feet long. Todd G did a direct face start to the crack sometime after I did the 2nd ascent of Dick Richardson's face to rivet grab. With EB's, I couldn't free it; fell a bunch.
On KBlues, my traveling partner, Steve a neophyte climber from Tehachapi, was having a difficult time following the face/rivet grab on the 1st pitch and grabbed a draw that I had left on the protection bolt after the rivets and before the 5.9 face traverse out left. The bolt sheared-off without a sound and Steve, draw & hanger in hand went for a fall in a 30' arc. This was like in 1983. The expression on Steve's face was the same as in Die Hard's "Hans Gruber Memorial Exit" in 1988. LoL
'Did some other stuff out there too. 'The Banded Cliffs' have lots of potential; we did a 6 pitch route, Naked Lunch, 5.8
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199714105/print
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 16, 2017 - 06:37pm PT
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Such a cool area!
Turns out the fishing is pretty good. My brother and I only caught 165 trout on dry flies in 4 hours yesterday, but that was enough.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 17, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
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top of the Taj with Cosgrove on my chest. Shirt lol.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 17, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I think I got the first drone flight off the top of the Taj,
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jun 17, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
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EC, I can't help but comment on your mention of Dick Richardson. He was the one who schooled me in the art of putting up slab routes. He was the master! He and I did some cool routes in the Trout Creek area of DL in the late 70's, when you could still drive in there. Since the Wilderness Area was enlarged, it became an 8 mile hike from the closest trailhead at Kennedy Meadows. Some information has surfaced about these routes, but it is incomplete at best. Some of the formations are Radiant Dome, Sardine Dome, and some others, the names of which I don't remember. We did the first routes on these, but since we didn't report them, others, such as Scott Loomis and Herb Laeger named them. I sometimes wonder if there are folks out there who have done any of these routes. Please post up if you have!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 18, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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Urmas,
I remember driving in, crossing the South Fork of the Kern, water over the hood of my Toyota (remarkably not stalling) everyone in the car silent...until we were safely across and a burst of laughter.
The North Domes area is great. We also did lots of routes that we never reported that subsequently showed-up in the Moser/Vernon Guide, per the 'FA' for the guidebook rush; pretty difficult to tell, especially like the crack routes on Bee Dome. 'Return to Forever' was pretty cool on the East Face of Radiant. 'Still lots of potential out there...
 ec
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jun 18, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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Yes, that river crossing was always exciting! We did a good crack route on Bee Dome, but obviously didn't get credit because we didn't report it. Of course it doesn't matter, and I don't mind. We put those routes up strictly for our own enjoyment, and didn't care if anyone else found them or not. Reflecting on those times, they had a lot to do with me deciding to devote as much of my life to climbing as I have. I feel really fortunate to have been there at that time with Dick.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 18, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
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A couple of us first climbed Radiant Dome by what we thought was the Beckey Route on the main north buttress while the other two guys there out there with us did a wide system out to the left. We all topped out at the same time. At the summit, there was a standard angle piton straight-down in a crack perpendicular to the low angle ridge to the south. Not real obvious of what was below, we set-up a rappel off of the piton, which appeared to be (and was) solid for a low angle rap. My partner John was to go first. I said, don't you think we should check this thing out first? John scoffed. Just before he was going to place his weight on it, I plucked it straight-out with two fingers. He about sh*t. I slotted it back in and said, "Yeah, it's OK." The perfect horizontal crack with a piton as a chock... on the next visit, we just scrambled down.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 19, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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EC, I can't help but comment on your mention of Dick Richardson. He was the one who schooled me in the art of putting up slab routes. He was the master!
Indeed! The best accomplishment of my climbing career was being able to lead some of those routes he helped put up at Christmas Tree Pass.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 19, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Questions......
Limping.... you fishing in Big Meadow??? Looks good.
Jeff... Nice shots.
EC - Urmas.... good stories.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 19, 2017 - 09:32am PT
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Herb and I did a 4 pitch 10d crack on the left end of Bee Dome back in the day. It wasn't too bad of a hike in then, now it is too far.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 19, 2017 - 09:56am PT
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Really...Bee Dome was a mere 45min from the car back then!
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 19, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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Yeah, now that they're done logging the crap out the place they declare it wilderness and close all the little dirt roads.
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