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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 30, 2017 - 10:47am PT
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Verified with Forest Service on Friday that they opened the gate to Cherry Hill Rd, which has little snow to Long Meadow. Beyond to Rattlesnake still has a few sections of the road covered in snow. However, the FS was able to get in with 4x4 to the trailhead leading to Church Dome. I'm going back there this Friday to have a looks see.....perhaps even scale something out there.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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May 30, 2017 - 06:33pm PT
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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May 30, 2017 - 06:45pm PT
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I could see the Durrwood Creek falls raging from Dome Rock two weeks ago. Quite spectacular even from a great distance.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I go to Church Dome quite regularly, I have only seen about 5 people who I don't know climbing there in like 20 years ......
can't find a uncrowded place?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Gotta get out to Church. Love the Domelands. The heart was burned out years ago, and I haven't been back since. Any photos post apocalypse?
BAd
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Manter Meadow fire. Church Dome itself was untouched. Down where it burned in the meadow doesn't look terrible today.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Bart Dome post-apocalypse, about 10 years ago:
Domelands post-apocalypse:
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ruppell
climber
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Heading to Church Dome for the first time next weekend. I've done some climbing on Bart Dome but moved further north shortly thereafter. Don't have time for a hike in type of weekend so Church Dome seems about perfect. I've got the old Domelands guide and a 4x4. So two questions:
Is the end of Cherry Hill road the fastest way in? ie any local legal trails that put you closer to the dome?
How much new route development has been done since the Moser/Vernon guide?
Thanks
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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ruppell.... hi.
No shortcuts....Do you have the MAP for the OHV printed recently that shows Church Dome as a climbing destination? It is for sale at the Subway in Pearsonville I find it most useful.
Cherry Hill to Big Meadow... follow signs for Taylor Meadow or Taylor Creek don't head off on any other road. When you get to a sign that points: Taylor Creek that way and Taylor Meadow this way. Go towards Taylor Creek.... if you miss this your going around the Rattlesnake loop and you will still get to the sign pointing to "the Church Domes" anyway, this road will take you down to Taylor Creek crossing... some fine camping right here-- in the trees or out in the open. The creek has small but spunky trout...
To get to the rocks keep going till the road "ENDS" there is a info Keosk ...... a rough road starts right their, we have driven a 300Z and a GTI up over the berms so a 4x4 is no problem...last year we had to skirt around two big downed trees at the start... drive up that road and stay LEFT.. when it really peters out in the trees you will find our campsite... good for about 3 cars max. The rocks are 20 min up the hill.
Kris and I have added maybe 8 or 9 climbs. Some others maybe 10 more from whats in the GB
I recommend Liquid Jesus as the MUST DO climb.... good in the late afternoon.
Have fun
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ruppell
climber
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Guy
Thanks for the info.
I'll pick up the map on the way down Friday night. 20 minutes sounds like a perfect warm up. Liquid Jesus is already on the list. I'll poke around and find the other climbs. I really enjoy getting on stuff that isn't in a guide. Some of my hardest onsights have been on things I had know idea what they where. lol
Next time you head up to Bishop let me know and we'll get out and do some fishing. Sabrina has been going off for the last 10 days. I still need to get up to South Lake and check out the conditions there. Maybe Sunday.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I did a route with Guy on the Convent called Pumping The Nuns. On pg 47 of the guide it's between A and B, on the face you can see just right of the tree. That's the left side of the chasm (Valley of Death) as you walk in. There are a couple bolts on an old Ron Carson Project behind the tree.
It's a trad climb with some bolts. You can protect the opening moves to the first bolt with a couple of very thin stoppers. Somewhere up there (after the third bolt?) is a perfect placement for a #5 Rock stopper (+- 1/2".) Bracket that size from 3-6 depending on how you see the fit. But it's good. Not a crack, a sort of pocket behind an ear of rock on the face.
The moves up to the last bolt before the anchor protect with a green Camalot. Again, take the red too in case you prefer it.
It's a great, steep, pumpy and interesting climb. I called it .11b, I've been called out as a sandbagger on that. I promise it's not 5.12 for sure.
3/8" bolts. One 60M rope.
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ruppell
climber
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Kris
Thanks for the beta. I'll add it to the list. I like sandbags. It keeps you honest. I learned how to climb in the Gunks. Those grades where normal to me. When I first came out west I was surprised to find no sandbags. Even the classic sandbags out here seemed right on grade wise. lol
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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I learned how to climb in the Gunks. Those grades where normal to me. When I first came out west I was surprised to find no sandbags. Even the classic sandbags out here seemed right on grade wise.
Exactly the same for me. Although I've come across a few sandbags at Tahquitz/Suicide...
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ruppell
climber
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mooch
Did you make it in last week? I'm heading out tomorrow. Just wondering if I should bring traction boards or not. lol
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Spend some time on the Rectory. The route behind the little fir tree is a good warmup. Leather Nuns is a good 11a then you can try Casual Gods at 12a if you climb that hard. This wall is a great introduction to Church Dome and is shady all morning. In the afternoon you can head over to Liquid Jesus which will just be going into the shade.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 10, 2017 - 07:34am PT
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Did the 12s on sight on that wall BITD, and that Ron Carson 11c/r route to the Rt, with Rincon on my first trip to that crag.
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 11, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
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What a rad place.
Guy, your camping directions where spot on. Thanks to whoever cairned the trail from there to the cliffs. Made the in and out super easy.
Got some climbing in on the Rectory, Miracle Revival Dome and Rock of Ages. There's a new line that we did on Miracle Revival just left of the runout 11a. 9 Bolts in 100ish feet on some really good climbing. 10+ maybe? Liquid Jesus alone was worth the trip. What a fun climb. Steeper than it looks too.
Thanks for the info guys.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 11, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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Cairns were a cumulative effort over a few years with Guy doing a lot of the work.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:45am PT
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And bunch of other peep's
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2017 - 07:46am PT
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It's a trad climb with some bolts. You can protect the opening moves to the first bolt with a couple of very thin stoppers. Somewhere up there (after the third bolt?) is a perfect placement for a #5 Rock stopper (+- 1/2".) Bracket that size from 3-6 depending on how you see the fit. But it's good. Not a crack, a sort of pocket behind an ear of rock on the face.
I remember walking up to PTN 10 years ago and uttering, "Frickin' sandbag!" LOL! I tried the first opening moves and got two thin wires in, fell on the second wire. Clawed my way up to the first bolt, threw on a leaver biner and tucked my tail between my legs. Definitely .11+. Now, I'll be happy if I can just get out of the chair and not forget my beer.
ruppel -
I went in this past weekend as a recon trip. Still lots to do out there. a few "mums the word" projects in progress.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2017 - 01:11pm PT
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threw on a leaver biner
I'll bet it's still there.
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 12, 2017 - 04:33pm PT
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I'll bet it's still there.
I'll grab it next time I'm down there. lol
Mooch
You could have four projects on every formation and there'd still be stuff to do. Errr, I mean that place is climbed out and has sh!t rock. Stay away. lol
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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LOL! Yah, stay away Bumper Belay Bozos.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 13, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
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Top of the rectory
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 13, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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Valley of the shadow of death below.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 16, 2017 - 05:28pm PT
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Here's a departure, but not a thread drift. Someone emailed me re: the area in the NW DL; Columbia Dome to be more exact. Brought back some memories of this remote area. Anyone done Kaopectate Blues? I believe that route has the longest/best .7 to .9 finger/hand crack in the SSierra that nobody knows about. It's probably over 500 feet long. Todd G did a direct face start to the crack sometime after I did the 2nd ascent of Dick Richardson's face to rivet grab. With EB's, I couldn't free it; fell a bunch.
On KBlues, my traveling partner, Steve a neophyte climber from Tehachapi, was having a difficult time following the face/rivet grab on the 1st pitch and grabbed a draw that I had left on the protection bolt after the rivets and before the 5.9 face traverse out left. The bolt sheared-off without a sound and Steve, draw & hanger in hand went for a fall in a 30' arc. This was like in 1983. The expression on Steve's face was the same as in Die Hard's "Hans Gruber Memorial Exit" in 1988. LoL
'Did some other stuff out there too. 'The Banded Cliffs' have lots of potential; we did a 6 pitch route, Naked Lunch, 5.8
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199714105/print
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 16, 2017 - 06:37pm PT
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Such a cool area!
Turns out the fishing is pretty good. My brother and I only caught 165 trout on dry flies in 4 hours yesterday, but that was enough.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 17, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
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top of the Taj with Cosgrove on my chest. Shirt lol.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jun 17, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I think I got the first drone flight off the top of the Taj,
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jun 17, 2017 - 06:18pm PT
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EC, I can't help but comment on your mention of Dick Richardson. He was the one who schooled me in the art of putting up slab routes. He was the master! He and I did some cool routes in the Trout Creek area of DL in the late 70's, when you could still drive in there. Since the Wilderness Area was enlarged, it became an 8 mile hike from the closest trailhead at Kennedy Meadows. Some information has surfaced about these routes, but it is incomplete at best. Some of the formations are Radiant Dome, Sardine Dome, and some others, the names of which I don't remember. We did the first routes on these, but since we didn't report them, others, such as Scott Loomis and Herb Laeger named them. I sometimes wonder if there are folks out there who have done any of these routes. Please post up if you have!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 18, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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Urmas,
I remember driving in, crossing the South Fork of the Kern, water over the hood of my Toyota (remarkably not stalling) everyone in the car silent...until we were safely across and a burst of laughter.
The North Domes area is great. We also did lots of routes that we never reported that subsequently showed-up in the Moser/Vernon Guide, per the 'FA' for the guidebook rush; pretty difficult to tell, especially like the crack routes on Bee Dome. 'Return to Forever' was pretty cool on the East Face of Radiant. 'Still lots of potential out there...
 ec
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Jun 18, 2017 - 04:01pm PT
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Yes, that river crossing was always exciting! We did a good crack route on Bee Dome, but obviously didn't get credit because we didn't report it. Of course it doesn't matter, and I don't mind. We put those routes up strictly for our own enjoyment, and didn't care if anyone else found them or not. Reflecting on those times, they had a lot to do with me deciding to devote as much of my life to climbing as I have. I feel really fortunate to have been there at that time with Dick.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 18, 2017 - 07:13pm PT
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A couple of us first climbed Radiant Dome by what we thought was the Beckey Route on the main north buttress while the other two guys there out there with us did a wide system out to the left. We all topped out at the same time. At the summit, there was a standard angle piton straight-down in a crack perpendicular to the low angle ridge to the south. Not real obvious of what was below, we set-up a rappel off of the piton, which appeared to be (and was) solid for a low angle rap. My partner John was to go first. I said, don't you think we should check this thing out first? John scoffed. Just before he was going to place his weight on it, I plucked it straight-out with two fingers. He about sh*t. I slotted it back in and said, "Yeah, it's OK." The perfect horizontal crack with a piton as a chock... on the next visit, we just scrambled down.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jun 19, 2017 - 07:26am PT
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EC, I can't help but comment on your mention of Dick Richardson. He was the one who schooled me in the art of putting up slab routes. He was the master!
Indeed! The best accomplishment of my climbing career was being able to lead some of those routes he helped put up at Christmas Tree Pass.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 19, 2017 - 08:41am PT
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Questions......
Limping.... you fishing in Big Meadow??? Looks good.
Jeff... Nice shots.
EC - Urmas.... good stories.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jun 19, 2017 - 09:32am PT
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Herb and I did a 4 pitch 10d crack on the left end of Bee Dome back in the day. It wasn't too bad of a hike in then, now it is too far.
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 19, 2017 - 09:56am PT
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Really...Bee Dome was a mere 45min from the car back then!
ec
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 19, 2017 - 10:03am PT
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Yeah, now that they're done logging the crap out the place they declare it wilderness and close all the little dirt roads.
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icaro
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 19, 2017 - 02:56pm PT
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For anyone that has been out here recently, how are the bugs/mosquitoes now?
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 19, 2017 - 05:35pm PT
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That's Columbia Dome, home of the Kaopectate Blues mentioned up thread.
ec
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 19, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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icaro
Bring Deet. They weren't to bad at the cliff but at camp they where thick.
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icaro
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 20, 2017 - 08:50am PT
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Yeah, that's what I was thinking... thanks for the actual update though!!
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 20, 2017 - 01:44pm PT
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"Limping.... you fishing in Big Meadow??? Looks good."
Looks like Manter meadow to me.
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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