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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 21, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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If you like to do it you should know when to quit. I did nothing but modest solos and very, very light bouldering (no jumping off) from the age of 50 to 70, when I began to notice slight balance problems and shoulder arthritis began to impede my reaching ability. That was it for me. But when I was doing it I loved the freedom of movement, the aspect of continuous motion. At times, the exhilaration.
Those like Honnold who push the limits in a spectacular manner live in a different world. As did John Bachar.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 21, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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I'm with Jgill here.
Don't know how the cutting edge soloists remain in intact as long as they have. Things in the moderate range of one's abilities seem to enable a longer duration.
The exhilaration of freedom of continuous movement is still fresh to mind even after the 4 decades since I often logged days of 4500'. Nothing beyond minimal 5.10, but often times the exposure was great such as Eyeores Enigma. Had some decent days in the early 2000's but non optimal joints and the headspace is limiting now.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 21, 2017 - 01:46pm PT
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Am I the only one who has had trouble getting motivated to solo since what happened to Uli??? It was a bit better today but I still have moments where I feel like if it happened to him it could easily happen to me..... a few weeks ago I drove the 45 min to the cliff, sat in the parking lot for a bit and drove home. Too windy was the excuse but that would not have stopped me in the past....
A couple BASE jumps should fix everything.
I often think of Dean, the spirit of his climbing.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2017 - 03:45pm PT
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My rock soloing is strictly moderate after work laps to stay in shape and keep my head in a good place for longer climbs so that I can move well over moderate terrain that has crap gear. Instead of schetching out trying to find gear that is not there it is nice to be able to reach into the gas tank and tell yourself NBD I do Not fall on this kind of terrain. After Uli fell I had a few moments where I was in the death zone and suddenly thought of Uli and thought. this is stupid....... Anyways, I got better..
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 21, 2017 - 10:06pm PT
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Figuratively speaking, I've sat in a lot of parking lots for a while and then turned around and gone home. Once I started a solo climb from a snowbank and my foot slipped on the first hold---I was still basically on the ground---and I took that as omen to make it a hiking day.
I think anyone who solos has substantial ups and downs with willingness, enjoyment, and motivation. Some of the safety myths we make up for ourselves are shaken when the best climbers in the world turn out to be not up to the game. Other fantasies are shaken when something happens and we survive because of blind luck and not because of any ability to exert control.
On top of that, as we age, we tend to understand the nature of risk and control more clearly, not only by virtue of living through various close calls, but also by sadly losing friends, acquaintances, and famous figures who, after making mistakes we realize we could have made ourselves, have not been as lucky. Something like Ueli's accident works not simply in isolation, but also by bringing to the forefront of consciousness the accumulated weight of experiences each of us has had.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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May 22, 2017 - 08:10am PT
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that would not have stopped me in the past....
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