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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2017 - 07:25pm PT
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Thanks Clint, for separating those out.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2017 - 12:43pm PT
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I've recently made quite a few additions to the list, and have renamed it version 2.0
When I incorporate all of the Yosemite data, that will be version 3.0
For version 2.0, I combed a thread here on the forum where people were asked about their favorite Robbins route, and came up with quite a few extra FA.
As you'll see, I'm no longer confining it to Alpine accomplishments and I'm just going for as much FA background as I can get.
All of Royal's Tahquitz FA have been included in version 2.0
Here are some gaps some of you with the appropriate guidebooks may help me to fill.
Usually it's an FA date, ascent date, partner, or rating that is missing.
MISSING INFORMATION
Tour D' Ai, Robbins Route. A three pitch route in the Swiss Alps freed at around 11b by Robbins in 1965.
Cima Piccola, Yellow Edge, repeat ascent: Royal + Liz Robbins
Squamish, Right Side of Yosemite Pinnacle
Mt. Woodson, Robbins Crack, 5.10 FA Royal Robbins
Lovers Leap, Incubus, 5.10b X FA Royal Robbins
Sugarloaf, Self Abuse, 5.10b/c FA Royal Robbins
Sugarloaf, Fat Merchant Crack, 5.10b FA Royal Robbins
Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face [1967-First Solo]: Robbins
Mt. Nevermore [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins
Mt. Sasquatch [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins
Mt. Jeffers [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins
It was put forward that Royal performed an on-site solo FA of Lower Right Ski Track in Joshua Tree.
This comes secondhand from Mark Powell. I've heard he's got a memory like a steel trap, so it may well be true.
See in the list in the OP where I insert what I found in Vogel's guide.
Also, in the Royal Robbins RIP thread, it was stated that he performed a solo ascent of DNB in the Valley, in Tretorn tennis shoes.
Some cross verification, or sourcing, of that would be good to find.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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from the Christine Jenkewitz-Meytras guide:
 Lover's Leap, Incubus, 5.10b X FA Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, 1972
Lover's Leap, Craven Image, 5.7 FA Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, 1969
Lover's Leap, Crud Gully, 5.8 FA Royal Robbins, Steve Roper, 1969
Phantom Spires [actually Sugarloaf - see posts below], Self Abuse, 5.10b/c FA Royal Robbins, 1967
Sugarloaf, Fat Merchant Crack, 5.10b FA Royal Robbins, et al, 1967
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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By and by a car pulled up and man dressed in casual business clothes walked over to us. We did not for one second realize that ordinary looking man was, in fact, Robbins. Now, I won't spoil it for the reader, who is encouraged to click through that link which Mr. Cummins provided, because I don't want to spoil the fun of the two-part story!
Thanks Clint, I'll have those route clarifications up in a jiffy!
[Edit] gotcha, K, just confirmed on Mountain Project.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Self Abuse .10b is at Sugarloaf on Midway Rock not Phantom Spires. Somewhere there is a pic of Weeg rope soloing it.
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Mimi
climber
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Stan Mish and I sought out his route back in 1982 at En Vau in the Calanques, Buttress Americaine. Royal, Hemming and Harlin, 1963. Fun multipitch route in a beautiful place. Another Royal plum. Was amazed at the very cold water but it felt great in the summer heat. Perfect diversion from the rainy Alps. I'm sure it was a nice respite in the midst of their alpine ambitions. I'm sure the tanned French nude women on the beach were a welcome distraction.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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thanks TB!
really a remarkable, remarkable life.
whenever some of those feats are brought back into the light, i'm amazed how little our game/sport/art/obsession, at a fundamental level, has really changed/progressed...
sure we've filled in a few gaps here and there and the branches have become a little fuller.
but considering what RR was doing when he was doing it, the trunk was established in ways that haven't really been challenged, many many moons ago...
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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No one should do By Gully on Castle Rock. Ever!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Here are a few more
California
Sonora Pass Highway - Burst Rock - Gianelli Edges
Bright Light, 5.6 [10/2000] FA Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Brad Young, David Harden
Solo, 5.1 R [10/2000] FA Royal Robbins, solo
Crackside, 5.7 [10/2000] FA Royal Robbins, David Harden, Brad Young
Lani's Leap, 5.9 [9/2001] FA(toprope) Lani Holdner, Royal Robbins, Tom Frost
Easy Finish Corner, 5.10a [9/2003] FA(toprope) David Harden, Royal Robbins
Frosty Fingers, 5.9 [9/2003] FA(toprope) David Harden, Royal Robbins
Jamcrack Joe, 5.8 [9/2001] FA(toprope) Royal Robbins, Tom Frost
I Can't Believe It, 5.9 [9/2001] FA(toprope) Royal Robbins, Tom Frost
The above are in "guidebook order", roughly east to west.
The crag is not too far from Royal's and Tom's homes at Pinecrest Lake.
He took a boy scout troop to climb there many times,
and there was also an AAC "climb-in" there annually starting in 2001.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2017 - 08:03am PT
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Now we are really rocking!
Gotcha, Mimi.
Thanks for the Sonora Pass stuff, Clint.
Somewhere I read that was one of Royal's favorite haunts.
Never did By Gully or Coffin Crack, or Final Exam ... oh for shame.
7 minutes from my house: so close and yet so very far away.
.................................................
Question Clint: are those Sonora Pass climbs arranged in any way geographically, say from East to West?
If not, I'll list them chronologically.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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I'm with you on that observation, NAH000.
Just imagine climbing 5.11 as Royal did in those clunky Spiders.
Same with Kamps in Cortinas and Higgins in Kronies, climbing all that hard thin face.
Or Gill bouldering in Kronies the way he did.
Ament & Sacherer routes and routines always raised an eyebrow for me.
Somewhere there's a picture of Peter Haan leading Meatgrinder free, while driving pitons.
"It ain't the shoes, babe!" - JL
.............................................
Robbins and Gill on Final Exam, 5.11a, way BITD:
(probably gets upgraded to 11b/c in those kicks)
Photos, with original credits listed in the scan, from Pat Ament's Wizards of Rock.
Looks like Gill is wearing RDs in this picture. A huge upgrade!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2017 - 05:11pm PT
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Robbins Alpine, Big Wall, Rock Climbs, FA + FFA & Notable Ascents 3.0 ... is now up and running in the OP.
This latest draft includes pretty much everything I can find on Royal Robbins major ascents, including:
Climbs in the French Alps, Swiss Alps, Calanques, Dolomites, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Northwest Territories.
Complete list of Tahquitz FA.
Yosemite FA of big wall/major features.
Yosemite FA of routes less than 6 pitches.
Extensive list of notable and historical Robbins Yosemite ascents.
Everything I could find elsewhere in the US: Alaska Range, Arizona, California, Colorado, New Mexico, South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming.
...........................................
Question: did Robbins do anything in the Pacific Northwest, such as rock climbs at Washington Pass?
What about New Hampshire?
MISSING INFORMATION
Usually it's an FA date, ascent date, partner, or rating that is missing.
Salathé Wall, FA 9/21/1961 or 9/24/1961 (need correct date)
Washington Column, The Prow FA 5/1969 or 6/1969 (need correct date)
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face (need number of pitches + rating)
Middle Cathedral Rock, DNB, free solo, wearing Tretorn tennis shoes (reference, date/year, reportage)(need number of pitches + rating)
Squamish, Right Side of Yosemite Pinnacle (need rating + date + partner)
Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face [1967-First Solo] Robbins (need rating + date + FA data)
Mt. Nevermore [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Mt. Sasquatch [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Mt. Jeffers [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Tahquitz Rock, Dave's Deviation - "extension to top":
FA Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, 5/1960
Vogel guide doesn't list the top extension per se, it just lists Dave's Deviation FA Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, 1960
Joshua Tree, Intersection Rock, Lower Right Ski Track:
Guy Keesee said Royal performed an on-site solo FA of Lower Right Ski Track in Joshua Tree, 1954.
This comes secondhand from Mark Powell. I've heard Powell's got a memory like a steel trap, so it may well be true. 1964 may be more accurate?
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Apr 12, 2017 - 07:07pm PT
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Stunning share Roy!!!
Thanks!!
The shoes alone speak volumes to the level of expertise!
The John Gill photo side by side with Royal (another
master) on Final Exam reminds us of the paradigm shifts
which seem to have followed directly along the climbing paths of Mr. Gill.
Far and away his OWN paradigm.
Royal and Gill are cut from similar visionary cloth.
No wonder Mr. Ament choose BOTH to research..
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 13, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
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> The attribution for direct finish to Nutcracker must mean direct start? (I corrected as such)
No.
Direct finish is the mantle pitch (now the normal finish).
Originally, Royal and Liz headed left before that.
Unfortunately, I don't recall the source for my info on this.
It's not in the guidebooks or in my other books at hand.
Schmitz, Jennings and Bridwell did the FA of the direct start.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Apr 13, 2017 - 12:42pm PT
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Information about "Tour D' Ai", Harlin - Robbins Route
Tour d'Aï : Voie Harlin - Robbins: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/373389/fr/tour-d-ai-voie-harlin-robbins
The mountainworld: http://themountainworld.blogspot.no/2007/10/le-tour-da-robbins-route.html
In 1964, John Harlin II climbed the first two pitches of a steep limestone route on the Tour d'Aï. Harlin veered off to the left below a final headwall. The following summer, Royal Robbins was running Harlin's climbing school and the two were working on the American Direct. Between forays to Chamonix, Robbins repeated the Harlin route on the Tour d'Aî and then forged straight up the overhanging headwall, using a few points of aid. A short time later, he returned with George Lowe and led the entire route all free at around 5.11b. In 1965, this may have been the hardest free pitch in the world, and Robbins must have done it with almost no pro in the first half of the lead. I'll bet only a handful of American climbers have ever even heard of this route, but it was a tour de force.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Apr 13, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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I'm pretty certain that Royal Robbins did the first ascent of the classic Middle Parallel Space in Vedauwoo.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Apr 13, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Above Tarbuster asked if Royal ever did any FAs in New Hampshire. Not that I am aware of--can't think of anything mentioned in any of the local guidebooks. I'm not even sure if he ever climbed in New England. Most of his few visits east were in the winter. However I know that he did climb in the Gunks and has at least one FA there--Grim-ace Face (5.9) with Jim McCarthy. When I get home this evening I'll look for the date and see if there are any other Robbins' FAs or FFAs noted in the guidebook.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2017 - 05:18pm PT
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Okay, thanks Marlow!
10 four, Clint.
Mike, my Vedauwoo guide says, Middle Parallel Space, FA: Dan McClure, Doug Snively, 1973.
Thank you Alan, looking forward to seeing what you find.
I've got Ed Webster's Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, but it's a lot to peel through without any suggested targets...
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Apr 14, 2017 - 06:14am PT
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I did a bit of 'digging around' last night. In the Gunks, the only Robbins FA I can find is Grim-Ace Face 5.9 with Jim McCarthy in 1966. I don't believe that he was involved in any FAs in New Hampshire or elsewhere in the Northeast--surely none that I recall or have been able to find listed.
His climb on the Sphinx D'Ai in Leysin, (the Harlin with the Robbins finish) mentioned upthread by Marlow was done in 1965. While Marlow's information is likely more up-to-date, my 1980s guidebook has the route graded VIb (5.10d)--a slightly more modest grade than he gives it, but still very good going for 1965. Robbins worked at the American School there for about a year, so not surprisingly he has a number of other FAs listed on the Leysin 'Tours', Also on the Sphinx he and Harlin put up Petite Diagonale--V+ (1965)and on the neighboring Diamant on the Tour de Mayen he made the FA of the Voir de Diedre (V+, 1965) with Layton Kor and Don Whillans--think about that team!!!! Given the time he spent in the area and the large number of other crags close to Leysin there likely are other Robbins routes in the region.
The Yellow Edge in the Dolomites is rated V+/VI--5.9/10a in the current guidebook, though in the '60s it was common to use some aid on the route.
Another Robbins FA in the South Dakota Needles is Tent Peg--5.7--1964 (same year as the other listed Needles FAs). He may well have done more there--hopefully Rgold or other Needles aficionados can let us know.
This list is very impressive in the extent and diversity of places included. Given that it is very likely that he also 'ticked' many of the classic established routes in most of the areas that he visited, the extent of his climbing accomplishments is even more noteworthy. When you consider that his whitewater career also includes a comparably extensive list of first descents, his status as one of the leading creative adventurers of his generation (and beyond)is clear. Add to this that he ran a very successful business, raised a family, and was a respected author you can see that his was a well-lived life.
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