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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 14, 2017 - 10:35am PT
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Very well said, Al. What a life!
Rick
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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Now up in the OP: Robbins Alpine, Big Wall, Rock Climbs, FA + FFA & Notable Ascents 3.1
Version 3.1 has these additions, supplied by Marlow and Alan Rubin:
Dolomites:
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cima Piccola, Yellow Edge, (12) (5+/6-) 5.9/10a, repeat ascent: Royal + Liz Robbins
Swiss Alps, Leysin:
Sphinx d'Aï, Tour d'Aï , Voie Harlin-Robbins, (3) (6a+, 6a+, 6c) 5.11b, FFA Royal Robbins + George Lowe, 1965
The story: http://themountainworld.blogspot.no/2007/10/le-tour-da-robbins-route.html
Sphinx d'Aï , Petite Diagonale, 6+ [1965] FA Royal Robbins + John Harlin II (edited for correction)
Diamant, Tour de Mayen, Voir de Diedre, 5 + [1965] FA Royal Robbins + Layton Kor + Don Whillans
Shawangunks:
Grim-ace Face, 5.9 [1966] FA Royal Robbins + Jim McCarthy
The Needles, South Dakota:
Tent Peg, 5.7 [1964] FA Royal + Liz Robbins
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Apr 19, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 19, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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Add the FFA of Turncorner on Sundance Buttress at Lumpy Ridge. A Kor and Jack Turner route originally 5.8 A3 done in 1962 and renamed by Royal (think Kor-Turner) once he freed it with a few falls at 5.10b in 1964.
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Apr 21, 2017 - 07:29am PT
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Sphinx d'Aï , Petite Diagonale, 6+ [1965] FA Royal Robbins + John Harlin III
I'm guessing that this should be John Harlin II; the younger John would have been about eight at the time.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 21, 2017 - 08:16am PT
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Free SOLO of DNB in Tretorn sneakers
Yikes! Had not heard about this . . . very interesting.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2017 - 10:20am PT
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Steve, Turnkorner has been added. Rossiter's guide has it as 10a, so that's how I listed it.
Thanks for catching that Ian: of course, John Harlin II.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 21, 2017 - 10:58am PT
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Damn, Ed. You did WORK. Great to have the resource! Well done, and I speak for all of us I'm sure.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 21, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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While even mentioning the Lower Right Ski Track (about 35 feet long, out at Joshua Tree) seems silly given the long list of 3,000 foot routes the master climbed, though the claim that RR free soloed it (5.10 b, at least) back in 1954 seems unlikely. 1964? Certainly possible.
Like most of the routes around Hidden Valley Campground, authorship is a total guess since clubs and groups and individuals had been using Josh as a winter training ground and get-away since the 1940s. I'd be surprised if a majority of the climbs on Old Woman and Intersection were not first climbed by the late 50s. Routes like Double Cross and Dogleg are so obvious and inviting - and doable back then - it stands to reason they were quickly bagged and probably forgotten as just some crack out in the desert.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 21, 2017 - 12:27pm PT
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Thanks, Tamara - this is great!
Roy, this confirms Royal's solo ascent of the DNB. (Note: this does not mean it was an unroped free solo).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2017 - 12:35pm PT
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I know, Clint, just a big fat S.
The initial attribution is in that list I got from you and Ed.
Maybe Hartouni will chime in. It obviously made the list for some good reason.
The way Royal listed it so simply, it's possible he did it ranging anywhere from rope solo to on-sight free solo.
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Just added Gray Ghost.
That with Turnkorner brings the version in the OP up to 3.2
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Apr 21, 2017 - 06:44pm PT
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He was pretty clear in his notations, and had an index to them in the back (FA=first ascent, FS=free solo, S=first solo).... so I'm guessing it was a roped solo?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 29, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
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On my yay back from Moab and haven't checked STF for over a week. I'll see if ther is an answer for Tar's question next week
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2017 - 11:47am PT
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Good to hear from you, Ed!
Hope you had a good trip to the desert.
The DNB free solo in Tretorn is interesting on a number of levels: it's outlandish in any era, and most of us thought the first free solo of that route went to Charlie Fowler.
Version 3.3 is up in the OP, containing some minor corrections.
Tamara is working with me to clear up some discrepancies in the Colorado Cracked Canyon/Ophir data.
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Robbins Alpine, missing info 3.3
MISSING INFORMATION
Usually it's an FA date, ascent date, partner, or rating that is missing.
Salathé Wall, FA 9/21/1961 or 9/24/1961 (need correct date)
Washington Column, The Prow FA 5/1969 or 6/1969 (need correct date)
Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, 5.9 A3 (15) (two FA dates are listed [1963] & [6/4/1960] + need current rating)
Middle Cathedral Rock, DNB, free solo, wearing Tretorn tennis shoes (reference, date/year, reportage)(need number of pitches + rating)
Squamish, Right Side of Yosemite Pinnacle, 5.9 (need date + partner)
Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face [1967-First Solo] Robbins (need rating + date + FA data)
Mt. Nevermore [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Mt. Sasquatch [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Mt. Jeffers [8/1969]: FA Fitschen, Raymond + Robbins (need rating)
Tahquitz Rock, Dave's Deviation - "extension to top":
FA Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, 5/1960
Vogel guide doesn't list the top extension per se, it just lists Dave's Deviation FA Tom Frost, Royal Robbins, 1960
Joshua Tree, Intersection Rock, Lower Right Ski Track:
Guy Keesee said Royal performed an on-site solo FA of Lower Right Ski Track in Joshua Tree, 1954.
This comes secondhand from Mark Powell. I've heard Powell's got a memory like a steel trap, so it may well be true. 1964 may be more accurate?
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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I doubt if Kitchatna routes have ever been repeated, so it is unlikely that there are any actual grades for these routes. Did the original notes in the AAJ have any sort of grades included for these routes? Likewise the Edith Cavell climb likely had a classic virtually meaningless 'Canadian Alpine' grade--something like V, 5.7, A2. Again I think the contemporary AAJ FA article would have had a grade mentioned.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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> Lower Cathedral Rock, North Face, 5.9 A3 (15) (two FA dates are listed + need current rating)
The "Gong Flake" fell off, so there is no longer a current rating for that pitch.
I don't know if anyone has gone up there to see if they can climb through the possibly dangerous loose remnants.
The lower pitches are partly sport bolted now.
> Middle Cathedral Rock, DNB, free solo, wearing Tretorn tennis shoes (reference, date/year, reportage)(need number of pitches + rating)
I thought the notations in Royal's copy of the Roper guide discussed above suggest this is a solo, and not necessarily a free solo.
Did you get new information?
> Tahquitz Rock, Dave's Deviation - "extension to top":
This was probably from Spirit of the Age, or from Royal's autobiography.
I'll check tonight.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
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Alan, I didn't see any ratings when I searched and read about Kitchatnas in the AAJ. I'll need to double check my work there.
No Clint, no new information on DNB.
Ed said he would take another look into the free solo narrative.
Otherwise, you're correct, Tamara's scan of the Roper guide indicating solo, not free solo, may be the default.
I have two dates for the Lower Rock route: [1963] & [6/4/1960]
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Thanks everyone for the help, really fun getting a comprehensive look at Royal's list of accomplishments!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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6/4/1960 is the correct date for the FA of Lower Cathedral Rock - North Face.
I'll get the exact source for that tonight.
I think the 1963 is from the Excel file - I'll correct that.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2017 - 05:59pm PT
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Copy that, Clint. Source isn't important as long as it's accurate, that's all we need.
Thanks for all your help, it's been fun doing the compilation.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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In Pat's biography Royal Robbins; Spirit of the Ages he makes a reference to climbing the DNB in Tretorn tennis shoes on page 231, which in the linear narrative would put it in the 1971-1972 time period. Pat doesn't refer to this as a solo, though on the next page he recounts the Ahab solo followed by the Moby Dick, Center down climb (in May 1974).
No mention in Wizards of Rock though.
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