Your favorite Royal Robbins route

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Messages 101 - 110 of total 110 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 20, 2017 - 10:14am PT
So many good ones. Maybe not my favorite, but Athlete's Feat stands out as mind-boggling that Royal did it when and how he did. I couldn't touch the first pitch mantel last time I tried.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 20, 2017 - 10:40am PT
I had to use my forehead as a point of contact in order to reset hands and complete the mantel!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 20, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
Ahh, the Noggin Sprague second only to the Chin Sprague as an expression of truly extreme climbing. LOL
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 20, 2017 - 01:46pm PT
Yeah....Athlete's Feat, the so called 11a mantle.....hmmmm.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Mar 20, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
Based on my last outing, I'm thinking that I would need to strap-on Tarbuster's cowboy hat and somehow use the brim to catch an edge and maybe mantel on it. I love the rest of the route. It is in your face and relatively unrelenting.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 20, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
I thought Athlete's Feat was supposed to be 10D?

At least that's what I was told at the time.

Erickson's Rocky Heights has it as 10+, while Rossiter calls it 11A.

Erickson:
A classic Robbins pun, a classic route, and the most continuous free climb in the country in 1964. The first pitch, which was originally more serious, now has a bolt above the bulge for protection, Thanks to some idiots who didn't believe it could have been climbed free. A broken hold has increased its standard a little. Mostly strenuous liebacks, though the fourth pitch will keep you on your toes.

*Owing to reportage of a broken hold, it probably wasn't quite as hard when Robbins did the FA. Still, gutsy without the added bolt.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Mar 20, 2017 - 03:08pm PT
Plus one more for Fantasia, which I recall finding very challenging.

Never did any of those longer, harder routes, never could have...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 20, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
It's stiff at 11a.......makes a lot of the 5.11 grades for Boulder Canyon sport climbs look pretty silly.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 20, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
Wow, waY too manY to chose from -- did Robbins ever put up a route that was less than five stars? But off the top of my head:

Vampire, Tahquitz
West Face of El Cap
ROBBIN'S CRACK! WOODSON! OH HELL YEAH!


Grossman wrote:
With the nuts that were available at the time, the crux mantel was an ankle breaker. Royal was really good at mantels.

The first time I did The Nutcracker, with first-generation Chouinard nuts, it was *still* an ankle breaker. Off White, Mike Paul and I did it together, and all I managed to get in was a #6 stopper that did not inspire a lot of confidence. If I had fallen, and the nut pulled, it would have been a real drag. Off captured the drama!

Credit: bvb
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Mar 21, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
Coronet on Queen's Throne - FA 1973
route starts 8 feet to my right and goes up to and out the right corner of the long shaded roof.



Specter and Pit and Pendulum are to the left which are also RR routes.

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