Based on my last outing, I'm thinking that I would need to strap-on Tarbuster's cowboy hat and somehow use the brim to catch an edge and maybe mantel on it. I love the rest of the route. It is in your face and relatively unrelenting.
Erickson's Rocky Heights has it as 10+, while Rossiter calls it 11A.
A classic Robbins pun, a classic route, and the most continuous free climb in the country in 1964. The first pitch, which was originally more serious, now has a bolt above the bulge for protection, Thanks to some idiots who didn't believe it could have been climbed free. A broken hold has increased its standard a little. Mostly strenuous liebacks, though the fourth pitch will keep you on your toes.
*Owing to reportage of a broken hold, it probably wasn't quite as hard when Robbins did the FA. Still, gutsy without the added bolt.
Wow, waY too manY to chose from -- did Robbins ever put up a route that was less than five stars? But off the top of my head:
West Face of El Cap
ROBBIN'S CRACK! WOODSON! OH HELL YEAH!
With the nuts that were available at the time, the crux mantel was an ankle breaker. Royal was really good at mantels.
The first time I did The Nutcracker, with first-generation Chouinard nuts, it was *still* an ankle breaker. Off White, Mike Paul and I did it together, and all I managed to get in was a #6 stopper that did not inspire a lot of confidence. If I had fallen, and the nut pulled, it would have been a real drag. Off captured the drama!
I gotta agree with Turnkorner, great setting (like most routes on Lumpy).
2nd or 3rd trip to Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon I was coaxed into bouldering Final Exam. Not knowing how hard it was, I made it past the first bulge and then leaped off and ended up with an orange sized bulge on my left ankle.