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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:30am PT
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A part of the mind will always say quit.
That part of the mind is wrong. Do not listen to it.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:31am PT
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When you can no longer tie your shoelaces or get the velcro to lineup you just might consider....hmmm, hell no! You can always get someone else to do that for you.
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Mar'
Trad climber
Fanta Se
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Mar 29, 2017 - 10:37am PT
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I was walking in the Sierra, in 1967, when i met God, or so i thought, I met Norman Clyde on a trail, he was 81 at the time, still walking in the Sierra, by himself. His eyes were alive with the beauty and vibrance of the Sierra. I remember thinking I want to be like that when I am 81.
So cool.
The mountains are in your mind, hopefully. So climb those— even if they keep you away from those you love. That is, the things you have formed attachments to.
If you know those mountains inside you, how can you experience absence?
Attachments to things, attachments to occupational identities and maintaining an attachment to action is the surface issue— but it goes all the way to the core of one's being.
No need to give up anything really, beyond attachments to things.
As far as toe-clips go, I tried them and forgot them by the mid 80s.
If Norman Clyde's eye's couldn't look the same anywhere— not just the high-country, then he was just another phantom.
When I was 45, I said, "Dang, I'm good for at least 60." Now I say I'm all over 80.
What I'm referring to is that passion. If it's pent-up, that's something else— passion has no boundary. If it can go beyond issues of identity, then that passion is real and is being mistaken for mere enthusiasm. If passion is intact, then there is something to work with— something to refine. That's a good thing. Otherwise it has long been lost to an attachment of habit~ not so good after all.
It's you, my friend. If you need accessories, that's cool— in that regard, a bike, a mountain, a bottle or a guitar/amp, an audience …it's all the same really.
Of course I've just been addressing the psychological issue. As for the body— we're MORTAL!!
I'd say loosen the grip (on the physical) just a little. The body is just another interface, but it's crucial. Maybe it's just time to re-assess the overall relationship. A little wake-up call.
As for the machine~ eh. It's just a tool. But the romance of the hills is a delicate thing as is true passion. Craving tool/technologies perpetuating their mindless use can get in the way of seeing.
A LOT.
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climbera5
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Mar 29, 2017 - 11:14am PT
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Lots of great advice here. I'll be turning 60 shortly and recently had a hip replacement stemming from a hard fall cycling 12 years ago. We're all extreme sport enthusiasts and cringe at the thought of abandoning activities that have brought us great joy. No small factor is, it's part of our identity. I say follow your heart and listen to your body. Keep active, explore your "B" list and don't give up!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Mar 29, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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No.
Just back from five days at a remote desert basecamp with mis amigos: "Los Ancianos Decrepitos." (The old decrepit ones). Our ages = 80, 78, 77, 66, 65. Identities otherwise not disclosed to avoid vexatious questioning.
No TR. Won't tell you where or what we climbed because we intend to keep our playground to ourselves until we are finished climbing, to wit: dead - in about 20 - 30 years. You may only find our secret locale when you pry our cold, dead fingers off of our last handhold. (To paraphrase the Second Amendment boys.)
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Mar 29, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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haven't really spent much time on the taco in recent years, but clicked on this link when I received the "supertopo climbing news e-mail"....
only read /skimmed the first couple of pages, but the responses I read were so positive and encouraging...
it reminded me of the best of what the supertopo forum has to offer....
thoughtful sharing of common experiences from a unique community....
kudos one and all....
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Mar 29, 2017 - 12:58pm PT
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I missed this thread, but it's subject I think about a lot. Most recently this morning in this blogpost, which was inspired partly by the Tomaz Humar thread:
http://ddstevenson.blogspot.com/
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Mar 29, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
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Many good thoughts here...
I've been climbing 43 years, and my body still responds nicely once in a while, even if not always. But if I get too "happy" and forget myself, new injuries seem to lurk just around the corner.
My two cents: Keep going if you can still:
 Have a glorious day climbing with great friends, no matter what the grade.
Have a glorious day challenging yourself on an appropriately hard route.
Still impress yourself once in a while (even if on a relative scale).
Impress some youngins outside or at the gym. (This works particularly well if, when inevitably asked, "How old are you?", you add 15 or 20 years to your real age.
Climb hard (for you) and not feel like total crap afterwards.
Feel the call of the wild whenever you look up.
Still dream about new bucket list routes and destinations you actually have a chance at doing.
If your body is truly failing you, and you seem to be getting little return on your investment of time and effort, switch to something more accommodating and, if you can, maybe climb only once in a while for the pure pleasure. One of the great things about climbing is that the joy of ascending can be felt regardless of the grade (the grade stuff is mostly in our heads) - a good route is a good route. Even a good class 4/5.easy can make your heart soar.
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capseeboy
Social climber
portland, oregon
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Mar 29, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
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Werner gets my vote too. When the gain is pain, well...
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 29, 2017 - 04:30pm PT
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Bob Kamps climbed at a high level into his 70's before his sudden passing while climbing in a gym. Everyone ages differently, but I thought it was great the way he could still get up hard stuff pretty much to his last breath. Everyone ages differently, it depends upon your medical history, body type, disposition, they all play a part.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Mar 29, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Bob Kamps climbed at a high level into his 70's before his sudden passing while climbing in a gym . . . he could still get up hard stuff pretty much to his last breath
Yes. Bob captured the essence of numerous posts on this thread. But his experience was an exception, as most older climbers decline gradually, lose interest, or are sidelined by injuries or illness that make it too tough to continue. Or all of these.
We are close to group norms when we are young, but the older we become the more we deviate.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 29, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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Indeed. We all hope we'll be the Kamps and the Gills, but nature and time often have other plans. Rage on, TACOids!
BAd
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mar 29, 2017 - 07:40pm PT
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Thank you all, for those who posted inspirational thoughts.
Like many here, I started technical climbing in my teens. Due to the demands of work, I didn't climb much from 1983 to 2010, but I still kept doing a few days a year of 5th class climbing.
Then, my old pal Donini thrust me back into climbing at City of Rocks in 2010, & I went from leading 5.7 to (barely) following his 5.10's.
So 7 years later, I might still be able to lead a 5.7 & not follow a 5.10, but I have made a bunch of lifetime friends, who are wonderful people.
It's all about the great people I meet & have met, to me. I have very pleasant memories of doing lots of tough climbs & first ascents in the 1970's. At this point in my life, fun & safe rock climbs are still fun to me.
I even remember driving Bongs, but this photo is from a 2010 RR birthday celebration climb.
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KurtA
climber
Winthrop,wa
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Mar 29, 2017 - 08:47pm PT
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Dear Matisse,
I am 73 and still mtn biking but starting to have more injuries. Not sure what I should do. But learning better technique can help a lot. Several observations: from your description, it seems that you took your R foot out of the pedal, landed on it on the way down and broke your leg as a result. You should have kept your feet in the pedals (and your hands on the handlebars). Arms, legs, wrists, ankles are just too vulnerable otherwise. Get clip-in pedals that are easy to get out of, e.g. Eggbeaters, so you can easily release a foot when you stop or when you go around a too tight turn and need the added balancing. But try to minimize this and stay in the pedals as much as possible. And in any case never stick your leg out to arrest a fall. Ditto with hands. Keep a grip on the handlebars and never stick your arm out if you fall. Never take your attention off the trail when you're moving, even for a moment. This is the easiest way to lose your balance. Look down the trail 5 or 10 feet ahead (or further if conditions warrant). Don't focus on the ground near your front wheel. Back off on the level of difficulty. Back off or rest or walk when your aerobic deficit gets high as it's harder to ride safely then.
I could go on but you get the idea. Another good idea is to take a mtn bike skills class. If none of this works for you, you might spend more time road riding and less time mtn biking.
I'm trying to do all of this and more. It all takes much more continuous and conscious focus and attention than it did when we were younger. It seems I have to force myself to keep focus as my aged mind often doesn't recognize that I need to. Good luck, KurtA
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Mar 30, 2017 - 05:35am PT
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One of my elder heroes is the late great Stimson Bullitt. We never met, but I remember seeing that inspiring photo of him leading Illusion Dweller at the age of 82. His book is a so-so read, but the man was amazing. On aging and staying in shape, he said (approx.): "Staying in shape takes a greater moral commitment." An interesting way to put it, but I think I see his point. We're less supple as we age, so, more than ever, we use it or lose it. I've just recently turned 55, and I'm finding it pretty easy to keep at the fitness stuff. In some ways, I love it more all the time. I hope I can keep at it, maybe become some sort of mini-Donini--never, of course, usurping the klettershoes of the master!
BAd
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 30, 2017 - 07:07am PT
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Superb thread! Great points of view, and advice, from all angles! Go while you can, and have a desire to do so, but know yourelf and your limitations! Modify as needed!
At 60, I'm climbing as much and hard as ever, but I'm clearly making accommodations, and taking more naps!
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gasman
Trad climber
eugene
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Mar 30, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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Don't quit. Good platform pedals and approach shoes with sticky rubber work great ! While not as efficient as clipless pedals I don't worry about crashing nearly as much.
Keep doing whatever you can. I still climb, bike,hike,ski,etc-I'm just not as fast or strong as I was in my 20's or 30's. It's key to keep moving. Plus I take more naps.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mar 30, 2017 - 03:48pm PT
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"Staying in shape takes a greater moral commitment."
Love that quote Bad, think I'll have a martini tonight and ponder what to ski this weekend.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Mar 30, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
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taking more naps!
I love that, Jay!
I don't take naps but I do take a lot more rest days.
I'm rooting for Matisse to figure out a way to keep doing what she loves, and to find new passions too!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 30, 2017 - 11:27pm PT
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I'm 84. Haven't thrown in the towel despite heart by-pass. Hang in there.
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