time to hang it up?

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matisse

climber

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2017 - 04:32pm PT

I would greatly appreciate first hand experiences here.

I'm trying to decide when is enough enough: When do decide that you're getting old enough that the pursuits you loved when you were younger are too risky? I'm turning 60 this year. Unfortunately I have the bones of a 60 year old woman, because guess what? I am one.

This is motivated by the fact that a month ago I fell over on my mountain bike and I broke my right leg. I was on super easy ground, I was just clipping back in after walking a section and I fell over and down an embankment. By the time I got my foot out of my cleat I was already going over and I landed hard on my right leg. total fluke. Its my first fracture (lateral tibial plateau), but over the years I've accumulated quite a few boo boos, especially to my poor abused right knee.

In 1983 I blew out my right knee (ACL/MCL both menisci) skiing at Blackcomb. I had three more menisceal injuries to my right knee (and surgeries) I'm going to need a knee replacement.

With all the knee rehab I took up cycling, raced road and track, crashed hard separated my shoulder at one point.

Twenty years ago I started climbing (ACL tear left knee, ruptured pulley right hand).

I've had so many knee injuries I own a pair of forearm crutches and I'm sadly quite adept.

So obviously I've gotten a lot more cautious. I consider the biggest risk to health is sitting on my ass. I think that cycling has kept me going all these years, and it has certainly kept my knee from needing to be replaced - I have a terrible looking xray but its surprisingly functional.

But this last boo-boo has got me rattled. I'm tired of being hurt, although it has been a good 7-8 years since anything major. Do I just do all the normal people stuff for fitness now? (stationary bike, swim, yoga/pilates etc). Or do I trade in my carbon fiber xtr yada yada xc bike for a plush full suspension and lose the clipless pedals? this of course assumes that I get back to some kind of function from the current injury.

What did you do and how did you decide?

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:41pm PT

Don't see why you can't keep biking, as long as you stay upright. Hiking might actually
strengthen your bones more, if you can stand it. :-) I trust you've had a bone density test.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:42pm PT

You get back on that damn horse!

Ha ha.

None of us are gettin' any younger...but...gotta get back out there.

Cheers and heal well!

-Brian

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:51pm PT

Geez. Quit whining. You think none of us here hasn't had his share of injuries? It's your turn. But that doesn't mean it's time to quit.

Follow your doc's advice. Heal well and expeditiously. Switch from free climbing to aid climbing.

Shut up and climb.

EdBannister

Mountain climber

13,000 feet

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:57pm PT

ouch.. this get's personal fast..

I started climbing at 11 years in 1966, and climbed 100 plus days a year from 29 to 36, when
i trashed my shoulder playing racquetball, not doing a stunt, not jumping out of an airplane, not climbing... just a regular people sport...
but it stopped my stunt career.

My climbing partner for many years was Jeff Bosson, He died at 31 years, taking a shower.

I was walking in the Sierra, in 1967, when i met God, or so i thought, I met Norman Clyde on a trail, he was 81 at the time, still walking in the Sierra, by himself. His eyes were alive with the beauty and vibrance of the Sierra. I remember thinking I want to be like that when I am 81.

I am 62 now, so i thoughtfully relate... to you.

I have no idea about the stats, but don't more people suffer injury mountain biking than just about anything??
Climbing seems so safe in comparison.

maybe you don't clip in anymore... or make biking a notch less dangerous.
maybe you walk more and mountain bike less... or climb more!!!!

but i would keep the sparkle in your eye, whatever does that for you..

crankster

Trad climber

No. Tahoe

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:57pm PT

One, tune out PTPP.

Two, dial it back but stay on the MTB. Lots of folks ride flat pedals and there are tons of low-technical rides most places as well as easy climbs.

And yes, check out the +size-tire, plush bikes. Smooths out the trail, you won't regret it.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

Feb 25, 2017 - 04:59pm PT

^^^Good call on the clips!

Levy

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:02pm PT

It's time to dial it back when you no longer have the passion to pursue your goals. If you yearn to have big adventures, by all means keep at it. If you don't, there is plenty of company.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:16pm PT

I think of aging as is a strategic retreat, you give ground that is less valued than the ground you keep...

I had been riding (road) quite a lot for aerobic exercise. I generally wrote off mountain biking because the time that I did it I felt like I was 10 years old again... but being wiser I realized I couldn't sustain the wear-and-tear of a 10 year old.

At some point, probably from OW training, I developed back problems, and unfortunately, after years, realized that these were exacerbated by riding. When I'd up my ride training intensity I'd screw my back up and have to lay off that completely.

So I gave it up, which was hard...

Still climbing, but after being involved with two climbing accidents of partners (within two weeks) that required trips to the emergency room I've lost a bit of bravado... I can no longer maintain the fiction that injuries don't happen when climbing. At least nobody died.

I still try to climb, but I can see that my already less-than-bold personality is even lesser-than-bold, and as long as my partners are OK with that, I'll continue to climb.

But I can see an end to that too, I'm 63.

So I walk a bunch, hiking and backpacking (which was amazingly doable with my daughter last summer on 100 miles of the JMT) and use the Elliptigo for aerobic (which is a nice, outdoor way to get a very low stress aerobic workout)

And wonder how long a retreat I have to plan for...

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:19pm PT

This is motivated by the fact that a month ago I fell over on my mountain bike and I broke my right leg. I was on super easy ground

I feel your pain. I fell over on my mountain bike once, going 2 miles per hour, on a city street. And I broke my left hip.

I have the bones of a 60 year old woman, because guess what? I am one.

Well, I have the bones of a 70-yr-old man. At least I assume I do. And, having broken about half of them, I really don't want to break any more. But fear of breaking bones is not the whole answer to your question, is it?

The real answer is a combination of many things, and only you can ever know when it's time to hang it up. But I can say one thing: As long is it (whatever "it" is) brings you joy, you should look for a way to keep doing it. Whether that means flat pedals, or following instead of leading, or whatever instead of whatever else, there will be a way.

But if the joy is gone, then it's time for a re-think.

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:28pm PT

What did you do and how did you decide?

What I did:

Gave up cycling and skiing long ago.

How did I decide?:

Too dangerous.

I still climb and hike in the hills. Age 67.

zBrown

Ice climber

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:30pm PT

Michele's father is almost ninety-four and he's taken a number of falls. Gets back up every time. Has never broken a bone. He was called "The Bull" BITD. Unfortunately, a lot of this is stuff determined by who your mom and pop are/were.

That said, he did begin to decline when he cut back on exercising.

Keep movin' to stay alive.

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:39pm PT

As other posters have amply noted welcome to the injury club. Most of us, myself included, have a few years on you and an extensive hurt list, but we keep going. You're probably not going achieve world class status in the near future but you can still really enjoy challenges on the trails and crags. Just adopt the no fall policy and be kind to the aging bod.

SC seagoat

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone

Feb 25, 2017 - 05:53pm PT

Or do I trade in my carbon fiber xtr yada yada xc bike for a plush full suspension and lose the clipless pedals

Yes, lose the clipless petals. I bought my latest MTB at age 66 and I hope to not have to give up MTB ever. Every year I probably walk a few more sections than I used to...but that's ok.
In over 20 years of MTBing I've never used clipless pedals. They're called widow makers for a reason.

I still Alpine and back country ski. Swim, hike back pack, climb, road bike, ice skate etc. Much of it is at a slower pace and less intensity. But giving up outdoor activities just isn't on the radar. I hope to take up some pack rafting this spring and summer on the Colorado. Not the real rapidy stuff but something with some challenge.

So don't throw in the towel just yet. Just get rid of those clipless on your MTB! And more rest days.

Here's my newest bike bought last year. I thought WTF am I doing buying a high end MTB at my age and I've done nothing but love it!

Good luck and keep on keepin' on!

Susan

tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber

Leading Edge of North American Plate

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:08pm PT

Wow, Matisse, you're looking pretty good for 60 years old in that photo at Red Rocks^^^

I'm 64 and I've been struggling with how to wind it down..how to bow out gracefully. On my 60th birthday, I did Snake Dike with some climbing buddies and that was great fun. I hike, road bike, snowshoe, and gym climb for exercise and occasionally get out and climb outdoors but exclusively on easy to moderate, well protected routes. I'm also fortunate to have a wife who enjoys hiking me into the ground. Although I haven't had any major injuries, my knees are arthritic and give me trouble especially on descents. A friend of mine considers it a community service to the elderly when he gym climbs with me on Sundays ;-)

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber

SLO, Ca

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:15pm PT

Best wishes Matisse!!

WyoRockMan

climber

Grizzlyville, WY

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:17pm PT

My Mom recently decided that the only way to stay young was to get ample exercise. She made a plan to hike to the top of the hill behind her house every day. It's a decent hill, 4 miles RT, 1500 vert. In the last 18 months she has lost 50+ lbs and plans on getting back into climbing after a 30 year hiatus. The Grand Teton being the goal for the summer. She is 65 and my biggest inspiration.

I think hanging it up is the fatalist approach. Maybe changing expectations is a better goal.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

Sands Motel , Las Vegas

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:19pm PT

Get the old fashion toe clips and straps and keep the straps loose...I never converted to clipless pedals and i don't drink ice cold Heiniken...F*#k that sh#t...

10b4me

Mountain climber

Retired

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:19pm PT

I can definitely understand. I skied, and climbed for thirty-five years, but shoulder, and knee injuries forced me to give it up. Not only was it physically taxing bit also mentally.
I still mountain bike.

I have taken up new hobbies that still get me outside. To be honest, I don't miss the climbing, but because of how much snow there is, I do miss the skiing.

Maybe try kayaking if that is possible.

Trad climber

Calgary

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:29pm PT

I am 59 with bad knees, 3 major surgeries on one of them, dubious elbows, wrists, and shoulders.
I will never quit rock climbing though had to give up ice and alpine because of my knees.
The trick is to climb at easier levels with easy approaches. You can always give up leading if you are worried about injuries.
I have noticed that most people climbing hard in their 60s and 70s never had any major injuries (also many never raised a family!)
Hey Wyorockman maybe your Mother should head up to Skaha in BC. Lots of folks her age and older climbing very well.

matisse

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2017 - 06:30pm PT

Thanks for all your thoughts.

I would love nothing more than to walk and hike, unfortunately while my knee is pretty functional for every day activity, or at least it was before this latest insult, I'm not good for more than about 3 miles. The 4 surgeries have caught up on me.

The John Muir trail or even long walks are going to have to wait for my new knee whenever that is. The kayaking is a really good thought, hopefully my upper body would be up for it. On the bright side it would help to keep the crutching fitness I've built up over the last few weeks. I just figured out I spent over 1% of my life on crutches. Lol.

pud

climber

Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:31pm PT

Matisse,
It seems we have a lot of parallels.
Total knee reconstruction mid 80's, shoulder separation a few years ago and a passion for two wheels.

I just turned 56. I still race Desert and Motocross and trail ride often with my teenage sons. We mountain bike a lot too. We hike and climb as often as possible.
I don't hit the tripples as often these days and I gave up roadracing in 2010 as we have younger children also and it was just too damn dangerous.
Low impact exercise is key. Weight training regularly is great for keeping core and upper body strength. Yoga and stretching can add years to quality living.
I quit Road Racing after 20 years because I didn't want to risk my family having to deal with and invalid or worse. If it weren't for this, I'm sure I'd still be road racing.
I think quitting something you love leaves a void that may be hard to fill constructively. Toning down speed and other risk(s) by riding smart and within your limits are a better choice imo.
John Gill is a great example of an extraordinary athlete aging gracefully.
Give up your passions when you absolutely have to. Otherwise Get back on the horse. You'll be glad you did.

Edit: Lose the clip-in pedals for sure

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Feb 25, 2017 - 06:36pm PT

MH2 has it right - skiing and biking can both be tough on you over time. It's hard, sooner or later, to avoid injurious falls in both. I've personally always considered climbing way, way safer than either or them. Lived in Hood River for a while for the windsurfing and between skiing and mountain biking it was the knee brace capital of America.

monolith

climber

state of being

Feb 25, 2017 - 07:12pm PT

Modern rigid MTB flat shoes and pedals are awesome. Makes you develop good technique. Read up about flats vs clipped-in on the net, with lots of strong opinion both ways.

WBraun

climber

Feb 25, 2017 - 07:15pm PT

Just hang it up and don't make any excuses, enjoy life.

You don't need to tear yourself apart to be happy ....

Sport climber

Sonora Ca

Feb 25, 2017 - 07:21pm PT

I like that Werner (3 dots).

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Feb 25, 2017 - 07:39pm PT

Matisse
Hang in there. I'm looking at possible rotator cuff surgery
at 65, and I haven't once thought of giving up climbing.
I may not be able to do some things I used to, but I don't wanna
stop. And look at Donini--he's in his 70's!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Feb 25, 2017 - 08:19pm PT

dial it back as needed.

no clipless peddles

do the fun things

you got this

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Feb 25, 2017 - 08:28pm PT

not sure why clipless pedals is such a bogeyman

MH2

Boulder climber

Andy Cairns

Feb 25, 2017 - 08:45pm PT

I'm not good for more than about 3 miles.

Whoa! You're an athlete. That's good for a lot.

Unless you go out 3 miles and then...

August West

Trad climber

Where the wind blows strange

Feb 26, 2017 - 12:12am PT

I knew by my 30s that my body wouldn't be capable of climbing into my 60s and 70s.
So any time I wasn't in physical recovery I tried to climb hard and take advantage of whatever opportunities there were.
I don't regret any of my climbing. But if I had walked away from climbing sooner I might be able to still day hike.
My back can't handle any sort of pack and one flight of stairs using the guard rail is about all my knees are good for.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 26, 2017 - 03:31am PT

Everyone is different....I have been extremely fortunate to have had zero major injuries and no joint problems and I am 73. I do find that I need more recovery time. I laid around all day yesterday after returning from three arduous days in the mountains here in Patagonia.

Follow what your body tells you regarding recovering from injury or activity but don't let your mind tell you that it is time to retire to the rocking chair. You are quite right that the biggest danger to good health as you age is to cease strenuous physical activity.

Good luck in recovering from your injury and I hope to run into you on a crag somewhere!

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Feb 26, 2017 - 05:27am PT

That said by a near mutant even if he is some what unknown,
}B^7-

I drink a lot if water, and consume a fairly large amount of herbs and spices,
So much is contradictory, but just in case I take some supplements? Mmeh,
I do a lot of the cooking for the family of 4 . I try to only eat goat food, but fail miserably.
I love chocolate, but we do not use butter (much) low low salt and almost No sugar!
(That white powder is like so many white powders, poison.)
We switched to a soy cream/milk thing . .
No-fat all from raw, fresh food nothing packaged, still we swell,
Arsenic in rice sent us to quienwa and other grains, still we swell?
Pepper and now down to only one condiment, a medium Sriracha sauce, still I swell
Go figure ? , it is more like GO To The Gym. . . .
im a victim, sloth, and excellent sedentary skills, leading to a near rock like appearance.
Unfortunately it's a round rock.

In my world of suburbia, planting bushes, cleaning gutters, the most mundane activities
pose as great threat of injury as the risky scramble /choss hoping that I . . . like
( small rock Hell - its all I got )

After Digging holes for bushes, having retrieved 21 bushes from a short steep 50% hill,
something just above my knee went, the next day started a spiral decline in my activity,
the battle to keep my mouth closed, and not gain weight is a fight I'm always loosing.

As almost everyone has said; becoming sedentary, for me is the greatest threat to wellness!

Wyomingrockman ! Your mom's haut! {B^7

anita514

Gym climber

Great White North

Feb 26, 2017 - 05:50am PT

I'm still in my 30s with no major injuries (knock on wood) other than some pretty significant surgery on my leg a few years ago. I spent a good chunk of my childhood in and out of hospitals with many, many surgeries to patch my bones up.
I have not been able to do anything with impact pretty much my whole life, to prevent breaking my leg. So I used to do a lot of low impact type stuff, like walking/hiking, and then climbing.

If you can't walk 3 miles, then there is a pretty big problem here and if I were in your shoes, I would get off the bike or at least least ditch MTB and take up regular cycling.

Walking is the best, low impact activity you can do. I took that for granted all those times I was either in a wheelchair or on crutches (I'm probably up there in how much of my life was spent on crutches. Hell, I never even learned how to ride a bike because of my busted up leg).

I don't want to offend anyone here, but I've noticed that with older men/women, they tend to really push hard. I am guessing there's some element of pride/ego involved, plus having to prove something to themselves/others perhaps? (sorry). But I feel that, often they push so hard, they do not listen to their bodies and end up busted up and broken, unable to do anything. Not saying this is you, but what I am saying is listen to your body. Let it heal. It's OK to recover and take it slow. It's OK to stop doing things your body can no longer handle. There are certain things I just won't be able to do because it's not worth the potential injury to my leg. And that is OK. I want to be able to be active for as long as possible. Think about that too. Plus as a woman, as we age, we have to deal with stuff like osteoporosis. So take it easy NOW, so that you can continue being active well into your 70s and beyond!

Swimming is a great way to stay in shape and is good for your joints. Yoga too. But for me, the best is walking. I'd try to work myself up to being able to do easy hikes, stuff like that.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Ashland, Oregon

Feb 26, 2017 - 05:52am PT

The Island Where People Forget To Die
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/10/28/magazine/the-island-where-people-forget-to-die.html

hobo_dan

Social climber

Minnesota

Feb 26, 2017 - 05:54am PT

I'm 57 Here's what I'm doing: I don't clip in--one finger on the brake all the time, the wheels stay on the ground. I get passed A LOT! Just riding those medium flow trails--Is it my fault that their fun? Never met a hill yet I couldn't push the bike up.
I X-C ski as much as possible--low impact and super fun
Just started Fly Fishing--it's surprisingly fun.
Planning to re-start climbing this summer--my goal is about movement and flexibility. Oh yeah- I"m doing it for fun.
When I started I was told that "this is all just monkey business" 40 years later it's too late to gain any sense of identity from my recreation. So go out and have another piece of pie
I'd also suggest swimming but I find it so boring--maybe if you want to feel what it would be like to live forever.....

colin rowe

Trad climber

scotland uk

Feb 26, 2017 - 06:18am PT

"Do not go gentle into that good night,
Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light".

Dylan Thomas 1914-1953

perswig

climber

Feb 26, 2017 - 07:33am PT

Just started Fly Fishing--it's surprisingly fun.

Fully expected to get my ass kicked resort skiing with the pseudo-nephews this past wkend after at least 2 years w/o downhill or skinning time.

Turns out, 3-season scouting and wading small to large streams will maintain joint flexibility and core/leg strength way better than I'd have expected. All that time braced into the current, water swirling near your wader-tops threatening to drown you if you drop your guard as you focus on the drift or swap out for a tiny bead, recruits everything from your arches to your shoulders into making constant adjustments that you certainly feel later and will appreciate when you get back on boards, bike, rock, ice.
(Throw in semi-regular pool laps and some trail-running, hiking hills during upland-bird season, and I'm losing ground less rapidly than I would have expected.)

Don't stop; diversify.
Dale

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Feb 26, 2017 - 08:45am PT

Bike less, those things will kill you.

Climb more.

Seriously? Keep doing what you like, just be careful. Maybe go a bit less 'extreme' in your biking pursuits. Momentum can be a bitch when you get into trouble on a bike.

pud

climber

Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia

Feb 26, 2017 - 08:54am PT

I don't want to offend anyone here, but I've noticed that with older men/women, they tend to really push hard. I am guessing there's some element of pride/ego involved, plus having to prove something to themselves/others perhaps? (sorry). But I feel that, often they push so hard, they do not listen to their bodies and end up busted up and broken, unable to do anything. Not saying this is you, but what I am saying is listen to your body. Let it heal. It's OK to recover and take it slow. It's OK to stop doing things your body can no longer handle. There are certain things I just won't be able to do because it's not worth the potential injury to my leg. And that is OK. I want to be able to be active for as long as possible. Think about that too. Plus as a woman, as we age, we have to deal with stuff like osteoporosis. So take it easy NOW, so that you can continue being active well into your 70s and beyond!

Anita, I think you miss a valuable point when you see "older" men and women that can still "push hard" at their chosen avocation/hobby/sport. The reason one can continue to perform well into their 50's,60's, 70's is is likely because they DO and HAVE listened to their bodies throughout their lifetime.
I personally don't want to give up any of my passions until it becomes the right thing to do. This alone motivates one to stay in shape. Maturity helps bring the wisdom to choose the appropriate time to make these decisions.

Taking care of one's body should always be a top priority.
You can't get very far if your vehicle is broken or weak.

Speaking for myself, I find the time with my helmet on is as far from my ego as I can possibly get.
When I'm in the zone my only thoughts are in the moment and fortunately, I have found activities that take me there in minutes.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Feb 26, 2017 - 08:58am PT

I dunno...this may be true of some old folks, but not the active ones I know, who are pretty savvy about calling it a day. But I'm speaking of a group who are all in their 70's, and so perhaps have learned how to keep active without blowing out what remains of the chassis. The survivors, in a sense.

There is, however, a psychological phenomenon that can make us old farts push harder than is sensible, and that is that the brain seems to think it is hooked up to a 25 year-old body. The backing-off reactions don't seem to be natural and have to be first learned and then consciously invoked. I'm continually surprised that activity directives issued by my brain are simply laughed at by my body, like "you want us to do what? You've got to be kidding!" Put another way, it isn't easy to listen to your body when there's a language gap.

Folks have made lots of good recommendations; I don't want to echo what's already been said. But one that hasn't surfaced is the climbing gym. It isn't an outdoor activity, and seems to be the subject of a lot of scorn from the generations that grew up and prospered as climbers before the gyms arrived. But as a place to get lots of good exercise---of the type we all enjoy---and in a setting where the level of risk is low and ability to control the amount of physical stress is high, I think it is almost unmatched. If you can gather a bunch of old friends and go at off-hours, you have an ideal combination of exercise and camaraderie.

StevenStrong

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 26, 2017 - 09:02am PT

I got heavily into kayaking at age forty with one of my climbing partners, now both approaching 60. I mean if it was good enough for Royal Robbins......should be Ok for the rest of us. It is a dangerous sport though, and somewhat parallels free solo climbing, where one mistake can be disastrous. It is a good old-guys sport though as long as your shoulders are OK.

American Whitewater can be a good resource for your local rivers: http://www.americanwhitewater.org

SC seagoat

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone

Feb 26, 2017 - 09:57am PT

WyoRok Man's mother!!!!!!!! She is now my inspiration.

As for pedals....at my age I use clipless on my road bike...for best pedaling form they are essential At my age for MTBing they are deadly because of needing really quick reaction to get out//off if need be. There are times I wish I had clipless on steep assents or hugely bumpy areas. My newest flats are like sharks teeth which has its own set of consequences.

As far as elders pushing "hard" I've seen the ratio of push days to rest days change pretty dramatically to allow hard push days. Also a lot more emphasis on cross training and adding stuff like yoga or Pilates. I'm pretty much at a 1:1 ratio of hard day to rest day now. With the rest day maybe being restorative yoga, an easy swim or hike. I found that kept me going rather than too many push days in a row....then I was definitely bound for injury..

Also icing and heating strategic areas after an activity even if they didn't hurt.

Susan

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

Sands Motel , Las Vegas

Feb 26, 2017 - 11:04am PT

A younger riding partner , is always pushing the envelope......dislocated shoulder from a rag doll over the MTB bars...Broken leg bouldering...Cart wheel over the handle bars on road bike....stitches and a concussion...always trying to prove something...Live to ride another day...

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Feb 26, 2017 - 04:29pm PT

"Old age should burn and rave at close of day;
Rage, rage against the dying of the light"

Words written by someone barely middle-aged.

At 80, I do not advise following this nonsense. Accept what comes and try to adapt. Leave your options open and don't say "I'll never quit climbing!"

Mark1198

Trad climber

Reno, NV

Feb 26, 2017 - 05:11pm PT

I'm glad I'm knott the only one to take those stupid pedals off the bike!

Roughster

Sport climber

Vacaville, CA

Feb 26, 2017 - 06:16pm PT

I see less concern with your activities, but more concern with how hard you think you will be able to do them. Pushing your limits to the extreme is a young woman's/man's game. Enjoy the activity for what it is, and what you can do within your limits.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Denver CO

Feb 26, 2017 - 07:45pm PT

Switch from free climbing to aid climbing.

Paragliding too, I want to get into that someday.

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Feb 27, 2017 - 07:28am PT

I've been more injured in low speed mountain bike crashes than in any other pursuit. Just finally getting over some fractured ribs from a mountain biking spill last year.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2901669/Broke-a-rib

With that said, and I really didn't read any of the other responses in this thread, go slow but keep going. Once you stop, you stop. Get the knee replacement and focus on PT and recovery. Keep the weight off and get back in the saddle.

Good luck and you have a lot of fun road ahead of you.

Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber

City of Salt

Feb 27, 2017 - 07:44am PT

I will be mercilessly attacked for this thought, but steep sport climbing in the gym is awesome. Falls are really safe, holds are mostly finger friendly and the total body fitness is really good. The social aspect keeps you around like-minded people and the weather's great.

I tend to ride my road bike a lot more than my mountain bike. But when I go mountain biking I mostly stick to blue and green trails. And if something makes me pucker, I just get off and walk through it. It's just not worth getting hurt over anymore. I use the multi-directional release SPDs and it's pretty easy to release.

Good luck. Adapt. Don't give up.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 27, 2017 - 07:47am PT

Good luck. Adapt. Don't give up.

👍👍

Roughster

Sport climber

Vacaville, CA

Feb 27, 2017 - 07:50am PT

Pushing your limits to the extreme is a young woman's/man's game.

Pushing them to the human extreme is a young person's game. Pushing your own limits to their extreme has no expiration date.

You're right Mike, but then again it is when you are most prone to injury ... which is exactly what this thread is about ... and what the OP is trying to avoid.

rbord

Boulder climber

atlanta

Feb 27, 2017 - 07:55am PT

I'm 57. I gave up skiing a few years ago because I just can't control myself and everytime I go it wrecks my back. Damn, but that was crazy fun! Feeling a little better now though so maybe I can try it again intelligently.

But I just spent 19 days rowing an 18 ft raft down the Grand Canyon, so I'm not dead yet!

Hard to give up the physical stuff that has given us so much fun in our lives.

But lucky me, I've got sunshine on a cloudy day! When it's cold outside? I've got the month of May! But she won't be 9 forever - hoping to save some of these good times up as protection against her teenage years! Or my 60s?

Best to you on your journey.

Roughster

Sport climber

Vacaville, CA

Feb 27, 2017 - 08:04am PT

But I just spent 19 days rowing an 18 ft raft down the Grand Canyon, so I'm not dead yet!

That sounds amazing, we want PICTURES!!!!

mooch

Trad climber

Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)

Feb 27, 2017 - 08:25am PT

Didn't know you rode road and track. All this time I thought climbing was your gig. I used to ponder what has been going through your mind.....but mine was to give up my love for cycling. I started cycling late (early 40's) but the passion was HUGE to eventually race. Training hard takes a lot out of you and the opening season crits can sure make the best of us tense, especially keeping a keen eye for the guy or gal who sez they rode pro for many years but rides like a Cat 5 asshat! After 4 race seasons, going unscathed, I finally had my first eye opener during a mid season race. Bottom line: everyone is on the bell lap and jockeying for positions. Dood pushes to the inside and catches his wheel on the curb.......takes out 6 of us. I go down and break by wrist, collar bone and left ankle (AGAIN!), with the mandatory road rash. I go to pick my bike up.....the frame is cracked all the through the bottom bracket. $7500 bike....Toast! I'll never forget thinking, "Forget all this!....I'm done." After healing up, I just couldn't muster the motivation to get back to riding.....it just wasn't in me. But then, I'll never forget the day that I went on a team ride and Davis Phinney showed up. I eventually drifted in with Davis and we chatted about the "who, what, when, where's". Felt like I had known the dood for years the way we chatted and edged each other to push the pace. Good times and a good workout. After the ride, I mentioned I had lost my motivation to ride. He asked if I had wiped out recently. I said Yes. He goes off on this long list of accidents and injuries that sounded more to be his badge of honor! His parting words to me were "Better to live in the saddle than on your seat." Frickin' inspiring and relit my engine!

Even with arthritis setting in on the left ankle, a tendon issue that has plagued me for 5 years, and two bad knees, I find it hard losing my love for adventure!! Stay with it!!

Hell, if this doesn't put a spark within you, just think of good ol Fred! :)

Ferretlegger

Trad climber

san Jose, CA

Feb 27, 2017 - 08:33am PT

Matisse,
As said frequently above, don't give up, diversify! Flat pedals and a full suspension bike are very helpful. If you still have the stoke to ride, check out the White Rim trail in Moab. Google it. Very reasonable technically and physically, takes 3 to 4 days. many guide services in Moab lead trips. I have done it in a day but no point unless you have done it over several days- it is just TOO beautiful.

Having had really bad shoulders since 1984, I can share frustration about the limiting effects of injuries, but if you plan ahead, pick your battles, and don't let cognitive dissonance lead you into doing things you really shouldn't, you can do most, or all the things you love until the end. Perhaps less frequently, or less difficult, but still out there doing it.

Some suggestions: Take up sailing. Great for intensity, but not so hard on the body (some exceptions may apply, but generally true). Take up river rafting. Fun, exciting, and you can sort of sit down. Become a slab climber. Start doing the old trad slab routes on the Glacier Point Apron. They will scare the crap out of you, but are not particularly physically hard- just very technically interesting work with the feet.
Ski tour as others have mentioned. Maybe in tracks. Take up birdwatching- doesn't appeal to me, but many really like it, and you get outdoors.

Therre is a LOT to do if you are willing to shift gears. I am just turning 67, and still do a lot of stuff- you can too.

Best wishes,
Michael

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Feb 27, 2017 - 11:14am PT

Once people said I looked like Jim Morrison.
Now I'm told I look like Captain Kangaroo.

If that won't make you consider hanging it up I don't know what will.

perswig

climber

Feb 27, 2017 - 04:08pm PT

Remember why we do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgjoFv33kKk

Dale

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Feb 27, 2017 - 04:13pm PT

Sixty is not old at all to be fit and active

You can say that again! From eighty, sixty looks downright youthful.

;>)

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 27, 2017 - 04:23pm PT

Cap Kangroo had a way longer run than the Lizad King did. If that's not a call to hang in there, I don't know what is!!

Ricky D

Trad climber

Sierra Westside

Feb 27, 2017 - 04:29pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

MikeL

Social climber

Southern Arizona

Feb 27, 2017 - 04:34pm PT

You are not your body.

jgill

Boulder climber

The high prairie of southern Colorado

Feb 27, 2017 - 08:37pm PT

You are not your body

Are you someone else's body?

Just curious.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Feb 27, 2017 - 11:24pm PT

I will be mercilessly attacked for this thought, but steep sport climbing in the gym is awesome.

let me be the first... that was 6 years ago... but still, I still find it an inspiring accomplishment for a self-described "sport weenie"

neebee

Social climber

calif/texas

Feb 27, 2017 - 11:47pm PT

hey there say... Matisse, :)

hope you are feeling up to par soon, :)

say, i liked anita514's info...

and what tami said:

I completely agree with ya Anita.

Re-read the first posts on this thread. Loads of busted up people.

And, yes, loads of fit folks too.

Train smart, not hard.

but that's me, and i am not a climber, i was just a hiker...

HOWEVER, i am and was a dancer-- so, yes, we MUST keep moving...
however, it is not worth breaking ourselves, as:

there is so much to still do with our lives, and one must
be 'ready and able' and when neat new things, come our way...

you WILL find something, and you will be so glad!

:)

Phil_B

Social climber

CHC, en zed

Feb 28, 2017 - 08:41am PT

Threads like this are why I keep on checking out ST!!

Thanks for sharing how you keep the stoke on. I've found that my interests vary from year to year. Currently, I"m more into climbing and mtn. biking than my original love, whitewater kayaking. But I'm sure that since this is a crazy water year, I'll succumb to the call of the river soon.

Personally, I've had to dial it back, especially since my shoulder surgery. That arthritis keeps on reminding me I'm not in my 20's anymore too.

Do not go gentle into that good night!

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Feb 28, 2017 - 08:43am PT

I made precisely this point further upthread and no one attacked. I think the climbing gym is an ideal place doddering banged-up climbers in various stages of decline to congregate, commiserate when necessary, and get the kind exercise they've loved for so much of their lives.

The video https://vimeo.com/197621404 I posted in the "Climb Forever" thread http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2925386/Climb-Forever makes the point as well.

Reeotch

climber

4 Corners Area

Feb 28, 2017 - 10:50am PT

Really, the goal here is to see who can have the most egregious list of health problems, and still send 5.12 cracks.

Alright folks, we're gonna have to see some doctor's notes . . . (torn rotator cuff, my ass . . .)

matisse

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2017 - 12:17pm PT

I appreciate all the thoughts. I really do. Thanks guys. Some of you have gotten lucky or have amazing physiology and have never really been hurt. The porter has never really been hurt. He's sprained an ankle once or twice but that been about it. Some of you have gotten busted up despite being careful, and some of you have found a limit when you went oops there was one..I want a rewind button, so I undo the injury and get a do over.

Despite leading an outdoor life, I haven't been a limit pusher since my first knee injury at 25...not unless you count doing the activities at all as pushing limits.

After I blew out my knee skiing, when I went back to skiing I fell exactly once in 3 years of skiing 100+ days a season. In bike racing I crashed three times in 6 years of racing. The one I got hurt in was when someone rode into me on the track in a training session. When I tore my ACL climbing I was on toprope, in the gym and I didn't fall, I just pushed up on my knee. This last injury I literally just fell over. I was on a beginner intermediate trail. I haven't ridden hard stuff in years. Also while I would love to walk/hike, I can't because the injury I did on my knee at 25 was too severe.

So the upshot is that I don't think I have anywhere to go in terms of limiting risk, unless I don't do any of it at all. And that is what I am trying to decide, because being on crutches really really sucks, and because my poor right knee really didn't need another insult. I dunno.

On the bright side I got the go-ahead to partially weightbear today so the crutches are going soon.

rgold

Trad climber

Poughkeepsie, NY

Feb 28, 2017 - 02:12pm PT

Yes, it is very easy for people who have been lucky and/or genetically blessed to see their longevity and high performance as a result of their own efforts, rather than in some possibly considerable measure the luck of the draw. We all like to think we're in control of our destiny.

Personally, at 73, I'm doing pretty well all things considered, but I give myself no credit and do not pretend to know anything about how someone else should manage their aging process.