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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 22, 2017 - 02:43pm PT
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Ed, while I agree with you about rounding the edge little bit when it is new, I also remember reading that Tommy Caldwell said that for edging shoes work best "right out of the box".
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2017 - 07:01pm PT
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my response would be Tommy was and or is a great climber, but was not quite correct about shoe rubber.
Ultimate edging rubber would be rand rubber thickness on the whole sole, then round the square corner a bit, so that the rubber at the edge of the shoe is supported from the side, buttressed.
a square edge cannot function as well as it deforms too easily.
and for production, a consumer would never accept 3 mm thick soles because of no longevity, so precious few have ever climbed on that combo.
I designed climbing shoes for three years, was learning the whole time, and had feedback from three world class climbers.
edit, edging shoes do work best right out of the box in terms of stiffness, perhaps Tommy was not talking about the need to tune the rubber, but about sole stiffness.
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