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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 13, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Terrific news Vitaliy!
Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska. The West Face of Xanadu, Adam Ferro, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince's objective, is perhaps the biggest unclimbed wall in the range, looked at by many by never attempted. "We are hoping to climb it in a long push, employing big wall tactics of short fixing when possible," said Musiyenko. "Our hope is to connect natural features and free climb as much as possible."
For the whole run-down on 2017 recipients, check out Alpinist.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
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get it
get it
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yosguns
climber
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Woah, wah?! Awesome! Congratulations!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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b-b-b--bad to the bone
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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congrats V and team...
best of luck, have fun, climb safe
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Ditto .... and enjoy the moments.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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congrats dude.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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I hear they're doing the far left skyline in approach shoes, then rapping the face and posing for pictures on the way down. A little photoshop and a red line on a picture and it'll be all red carpets and bikini parties.
But that's a secret so don't tell anyone.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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WOW! Great stuff, V!!!!
Do it!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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Oh snap! The west face is the prize of the range.
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure P.T. attempted it 20 plus years ago. I think he bailed because of the time consuming nature of the pitches. Intricate aid, hooking, some drilling. V- you should hit him up for beta, and correct me if I'm wrong.
Good luck, bring head nets or the bugs will kill you before you get to the wall.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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Brian Prince (Shylock) is from AK so he eats mosquitoes for dinner.
So excited for you guys! And from what you've said about Adam it's gonna be a great team! #walmartofficial
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Ever since reading David Roberts (no relation) I've wanted to venture into the Arrigetch. This thread from 2009 helped drag him out of the woodwork.
The short film of the Caldwell/Kennedy/Rich trip in there was pretty cool as is pretty much everything Roman Dial and Luc Mehl do.
Regale us with stories upon your return! And pack TWO Chuburashkas for good luck.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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Xanadu West Face on the left.
Face just right of center is what Tommy and Hayden climbed.
Close up.
The second photo i-b-goB posted is the north / NE face.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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I hear they're doing the far left skyline in approach shoes, then rapping the face and posing for pictures on the way down. A little photoshop and a red line on a picture and it'll be all red carpets and bikini parties.
Hell no! That's too much work for the new generation! We are getting dropped off on the summit by a helicopter and rap bolting the whole face with powerdrills. That's the style!
https://www.instagram.com/p/br1brmxabT/
"Unclimbed west face of Xanadu, Arrigetch Peaks, Alaskan Arctic. Mugs had this near the top of his tick list when he died on Denali in 1992."
Jon Krakauer
And the route they climbed on Xanadu. We hope to go close to the middle. It is very hard to estimate HOW big is it, but I think possibly bigger than El Cap. Could be way off. But it sure looks HUGE in this video (can see it at 16 seconds and at 3:40): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkGHxj7uX4k
It was a HUGE and a VERY PLEASANT surprise we got one of the awards/grants. It makes us three committed to the trip, which is great, because HOPEFULLY we will see the incredible place with own eyes. We were actually planning this trip for 2016, but because Daniel and I didn't send in Tehipite Valley (in 2015), there were other priorities. But now they are taken care of!
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/TEHIPITE-VALLEY-PART-II-the-biggest-unclimbed-wall-in-California/t13030n.html
Arrigetch looks incredible and that wall on Xanadu looks like the biggest possible challenge in the range. IMO there are several MUSTs on a check list before an expedition. Very high up is to have an objective that all team members are PSYCHED to try. And that is very true for the three of us. We are also getting along really well and have climbed big new routes together. So as long as the three of us are healthy and make it to Alaska, the rest is up to the weather and mountain gods. We have no shortage of energy to give it our best.
A HUGE THANKS TO everyone wishing us luck and to the Alpinist Magazine, Black Diamond, Patagonia, Mountain Gear, Gore-tex and everyone else working on bringing the Mugs Stump Award together. They really give back to the community by contributing experiences to the lives of people like us.
PS: Don't let my mom know there are grizzly bears in the Arrigetch!
F, who is P.T.?
Ever since reading David Roberts (no relation) I've wanted to venture into the Arrigetch +1
His book was the first piece of mountaineering literature that I read when I got into it in 2010. On The Ridge Between Life And Death. Great book, great writer! Since reading it, I wanted to see Alaska. So in 2011 I went and did Mt. Denali with a friend...a different experience, nothing like what he described in the book. So now I am way more excited to see the Alaska he was talking about. :)
Full list of ALL THE TEAMS that got the support from the Mugs Stump Award for the year of 2017. All have really cool climbs planned!
* Revelation Mountains, Alaska. Clint Helander and Andres Marin will visit the remote Revelations, aiming for a direct new route on the East Face of Golgotha. Helander, who made the first and only ascent of Golgotha in 2012 with Ben Trocki, attempted the line in 2015 with Marin; they were turned back by avalanche danger in the narrow cirque below the face....
* Arrigetch Peaks, Alaska. The West Face of Xanadu, Adam Ferro, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Brian Prince's objective, is perhaps the biggest unclimbed wall in the range, looked at by many by never attempted. "We are hoping to climb it in a long push, employing big wall tactics of short fixing when possible," said Musiyenko. "Our hope is to connect natural features and free climb as much as possible."
* Zanskar, India. Alan Rousseau and Tino Villanueva will explore the Suru Valley and attempt a difficult mixed route on the North Face of Rungofarka and a prominent rock buttress on the nearby Northwest Face of Peak 5780. Both peaks are unclimbed. "In 2009 India opened over 100 peaks for climbing after being formally closed forbidden for many years due to the armed conflict in the region," says Rousseau. "Rungofarka and Peak 5780 are among the newly opened peaks. Reports of good rock in the Suru Valley lead me to believe we will find high quality stone on these formations."
* Kishtwar, India. The Kishtwar region, also recently reopened to climbers after a 20-year hiatus, is still relatively unexplored. Sam Hennessy, Seth Timpano and Jared Vilhauer will make their second attempt on the 1700-meter North Face of Barnaj II. The peak is an unclimbed gem, and, says Vilhauer, "Will provide world class ice and mixed climbing on a big alpine face...."
* Karakorum Himalaya, Pakistan. Steve Swenson, Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman have their sights on a long and technical ridge on Mucho Chhish, the world's second highest unclimbed peak at 7453 meters. "The line is stunningly beautiful and safe from objective hazard, while providing a logical and challenging 3400-meter alpine style objective," says Zimmerman. "We'll be traversing a mile of ridge above 7000 meters to reach the elusive summit of Muchu Chhish."
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:38pm PT
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At least there won't be any mosquitos!!!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Dec 13, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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Paul Turecki. He was one of Mugs partners late 80s+.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:04pm PT
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Someone called it the Arctic Half Dome!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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Plan well. Execute. Return Safe.
More power to ya
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:27pm PT
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Got a call from Cheburashka! I think we got a 4th team member!!!!!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Dec 13, 2016 - 10:38pm PT
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Don't forget bug spray and fine net hoods. They flyers can be ferocious up there. Shouldn't be a problem on the wall, but approach and Basecamp could be bad.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Dec 14, 2016 - 04:22am PT
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Congrats Vitaliy. I'm sure the whole trip will give you all the adventure you are looking for. It's a wild place. Bugs, bears,mucky tussocks,willows, and unclimbed walls.
Scariest thing we encountered up there was the loose rock. Huge hollow sections just sitting there due to the lack of precip to move it off the wall. We did find great climbing mostly but occasionally something really big and hollow would surprise us.
Drop me a note if I can help you with any more info.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Dec 14, 2016 - 05:36am PT
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Good luck, braj. Take care up there.
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Dec 14, 2016 - 05:58am PT
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Wow! So cool for you V! Can't wait to read the TR!!!
Also looks like Clint Helander got one as well, which is awesome!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 14, 2016 - 06:09am PT
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Attempt it all, then come home. Congratulations guys.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Dec 14, 2016 - 06:34am PT
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Wow! How come I'm not surprised! ?
So very excited for you!
Susan and Michael.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:34am PT
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congrats vitaliy, have a great adventure and can't wait for the tr. steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:44am PT
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Congratulations Vitaly!
What a splendid looking prospect and a great opportunity to lock horns with something massive. Mugs would certainly approve if this was in his little black book and I am glad to see the support going to a solid independent team like yours.
I look forward to checking out a TR once you put a bow on it.
Cheers!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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God speed .... looks amazing.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Dec 14, 2016 - 08:58am PT
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Looks 5.7 to me. Bring a sweater. It can get chilly up there.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Dec 14, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Wow, Mr. V! So stoked for you and your team. May you have enough good weather to get 'er done. Damn the mosquitoes and full speed ahead. Congrats!
BAd
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Dec 14, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
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Was in Talkeetna over the weekend & paid respects to Mugs & all the others. Congrats to all the recipients!~
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Dec 14, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Congratulations on the award! Looking forward to hearing about your amazing adventure to come.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 14, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
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PS: Don't let my mom know there are grizzly bears in the Arrigetch!
Bring a 12 gauge with some buckshot (and birdshot for the ptarmigan...ha ha) and you'll be aw-ight.
Might be one of the big peaks we could see when we circumnavigated the Arregetch back in the late 80's. Wooly country!
Brooks Range Aviation out of Bettles?
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slidingmike
climber
CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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Fantastic news, and well deserved. Congrats, Vitaliy!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 14, 2016 - 02:51pm PT
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Bring a 12 gauge with some buckshot
Damn, don't think that is in the light and fast kit that I have. :)
I believe the pilot can let us know how gnar the situation with the bears is that season, will have to make the decision based on that. Heard it is best to cook in a separate tent and wear a change of clothes for the times you are eating. But then there are people hanging with grizzlies for years without too much trouble. :) Ok, none of us are planning to get so close to the grizzlies. Hoping to not see one while there, unless it is FAR away. They scare the hell out of me. Much more powerful than humans...
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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Big Congratulations to Vitaliy and all the recipients.
Phyl
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BFK
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 14, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
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Light and Fast!
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Dec 14, 2016 - 04:24pm PT
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What a beautiful formation.
Good luck, and congratulations.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 14, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
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AK was bigger, badder and completely free of slavic folk back in my day.
Hopefully we will be able to see Russia from Xanadu.
Also looks like Clint Helander got one as well, which is awesome!
Yayuh! Just got to meet and climb with him a bit in Indian Creek. Was lots of fun, heard the story about their epic this year. Sure hope for a better follow up trip!
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 14, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
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Epic! Have the adventure of your lives gentlemen.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 14, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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I am not sure that dudes are motivated enough.
;-)
absolutely proud for you folks! git some!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Dec 14, 2016 - 11:08pm PT
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Congratulations Vitaliy!!
Good luck with your climb it will be an adventure one way or the other!
Only been to the area once and unfortunately had 2 weeks of shitty weather; never had a long enough weather window to complete a climb.
Long hike in with heavy packs, been wanting to get back up there
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Dec 15, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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Thanks all for the great photos and links.
A wilderness with the emphasis on wild.
Good luck guys.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 15, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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I wish I had some Xanadu jokes. I really wish I did : /
Hells yeah man hope for the best!
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Dec 16, 2016 - 09:10am PT
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Atleast you wont have to dodge these guys...
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Dec 21, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
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Wolverines!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 21, 2016 - 04:37pm PT
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Fantastico! Go get it!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 21, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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While enjoying a day of great rock climbing weather in the Anchorage (Alaska) climbing gym we noticed a giant photo of the wall which was the main climbing objective of the trip - the West Face of Xanadu.
Till the summer of 2017 it had no ascents, and the only climb in the proximity was the line Tommy Caldwell and Hayden Kennedy climbed on an unnamed peak near by (labeled D).
This summer however it all changed, with three independent new routes established on Xanadu, all proud in their own way:
The first was climbed is one I labeled C. The team of four climbers free climbed and aided the line, fixed ropes and worked it over course of a few weeks to establish a badass test piece free climb with a crux of 5.13 or 13+ bolt protected face climbing and most of the route in 5.10-11 range.
Next was one I labeled as B, which was a difficult aid-climb in A4-5 range by a famous Spanish soloist Silvia Vidal who spent 2 month in the range, took something like 17 carries just to get her gear to the base and about 20 days on the wall, averaging less than a pitch a day on hard aid climbing. Running into her in the Arrigetch she said dreams of climbing on the wall kept her alive through sickness that kept her away from climbing for 3-4 years. Very very very happy for her recovery and a crazy adventure!
Then it was us, line A. After sitting out a few days of bad weather following a new route on Albatross (Direct Southeast Face 1,800 ft IV 5.10+) we had only one dinner left and a pack of snacks to hike over the pass from the other side of the valley and climb the route. In a day was our only option. It was a challenging climb with many great pitches in mediocre conditions. The last two pitches and the final 400 feet of ridge traversing was done in a semi whiteout. The line presented difficulties to about 5.11+ and we avoided the time consuming bolting of any kind by running out lengthy sections of face climbing between cracks or occasional flakes that offered gear. However, the new line was just a beginning of our day. After hiking back to camp, we had to pack it up and move it down the valley, then hike all the way out to the air strip (7 miles), pick up our cached food, and walk back to camp, all in a rain. That day we saw the sun rise twice. :)
Thanks to the Mugs Stump award for providing us with funds that committed Brian Prince, Adam Ferro and I to this expedition. It was damn fun and climbing was only a small part of this journey through Alaska!
We left the range a few days earlier and had a great time flying and fishing for salmon with Brian's step dad. Smoked quite a bit of it, never tried smoked salmon this good anywhere.
We took a load of photos on our cameras, these were a few I took with the phone. Alaska is awesome.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Aug 21, 2017 - 03:55pm PT
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Awesome V,
I'm glad it was safe and successful 👊
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Aug 21, 2017 - 04:54pm PT
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Bolt free in the mountains....proud V !
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 21, 2017 - 04:57pm PT
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If I'm not out shreddin' the gnar, glad that somebody is doing it for me and showing some pics.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Aug 21, 2017 - 05:00pm PT
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Awesome!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 21, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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'Grovel' long, to Xanadu, goin' ground - up from the sight of a wall poster A Wall beyond! Well beyond Way cool! Way out there way to get it done
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 21, 2017 - 05:25pm PT
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Way to go V! I got hooked and went there 17 years in a row....looks like your headed down that path. Climbing, fishing and the Bush Company, what's not to like?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 21, 2017 - 06:16pm PT
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In addition to the Mugs Stump award, you should also get some kind of prize for "The Climber Having The Most Fun".
With the proviso, of course, that it don't have to be fun, to be fun.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 21, 2017 - 07:33pm PT
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AWESOME, Vitaliy and crew!
You done it!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2017 - 08:23pm PT
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wonderful news V, Adam and Brian!
Great to hear that your trip was successful.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 21, 2017 - 09:31pm PT
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WOOT! Way to get er dun.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Aug 21, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
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Dude that's the best climbing pic evaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..!.
Now I want some!
Proud chore Boys!!!
But seriously, I wanna se the tr for line B!!!!
(Don't listen to wheyrunout!)
BOOoowwwwww....
Edit; Dude don't you know how to fish?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 12:18am PT
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Very nice work, V! Congrats to you, Brian and Adam :-)
I hope to see some more pics and a report sometime. I know it'll end up in the AAC Journal, so am looking forward to reading that.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 04:57am PT
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Looks great Vitaliy!
Thanks for sharing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 05:41am PT
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Wow! Great job guys! Friggen awesome
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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Aug 22, 2017 - 10:01am PT
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meh - this is nothing that any run-of-the-mill off the shelf bad*ss real McCoy world-class genuine nice guy couldn't do. Vitaliy is a 1%-er - the best of the best. except for the oft-rumored uncontrollable flatulence
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 11:04am PT
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The first was climbed is one I labeled C. The team of four climbers free climbed and aided the line, fixed ropes and worked it over course of a few weeks to establish a badass test piece free climb with a crux of 5.13 or 13+ bolt protected face climbing and most of the route in 5.10-11 range.
One correction. The 13+ part was a seam protected by knife blades. I should know - they were mine. No bolts were used except as belay/rap anchors.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Aug 22, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Thank you for the correction, I know little about the route you guys climbed but it sounds and looks VERY COOL, CONGRATS!
I assumed there was some crazy bolt protected overhang because someone said 5.13+ crimping. Did you guys aid that pitch, fix a line and worked it for sometime and redpoint that pitch and the route in a day? Or is that an estimation of the pitch if it was responded? Also, how many meters of rope did you guys fix? Interesting from the side of weight carrying of gear.
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Aug 22, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Wasn't me. Just my pins. It was my son and his friends. I'll leave it to them to post the details as they see fit.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 22, 2017 - 08:30pm PT
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Selfie that thing
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 23, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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Very nice...
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Aug 23, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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Yeah Vitaliy and partners. Well done.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Silvia Vidal, Spanish? Really?
The new route she put is named "Un pas més". Deos it sound like Castilian?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Also, great article in the new American Alpine Journal!!!
What a summer!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Silvia Vidal, Spanish? Really?
The new route she put is named "Un pas més". Deos it sound like Castilian?
When I went to Barcelona I needed a Spanish visa, not Catalan. I do know that those two are different but didn't know one will be offended if I referred to Silvia as Spanish, if I knew I'd use the correct term. Sorry. And no, I do not know the difference between the two languages, not fluent in either and do not know or care about what she called her route. Been working 12 hour shifts in a trauma center emergency room (which is pretty damn nuts) or gone climbing every day since I came back from Alaska and do not have much time to care about what my friends and I will call our route, even less attention is given to the other names.
Thanks for nice replies guys. Hope to upload a bunch of photos and write something about it.
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H
Mountain climber
there and back again
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I have dreamed of going to the Arrigetch since I first saw pictures of them. So glad that your following your dream V. Its been great watching your journeys. Keep up the good work and the post.
Congrats on your award; you deserve it!
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