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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 17, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
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You're welcome Tami. So no caricature of a person with his head up his ass doing one arm pull ups? Caption?
I wired a house for a political cartoonist this year. Don't rankle a cartoonist. :)
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zachh85
Boulder climber
Cleveland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Wow, so many awesome replies. Thanks! Would it be okay to post my workouts in this thread for feedback and motivation?
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 17, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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Definitely post it up, I am curious. Somehow the internet decided that only 1 out of 100,000 people are capable of doing a OAC. Another view is that anyone can train to do one.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 17, 2016 - 07:50pm PT
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Your workout is okay, but I want to see more of the cat!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Nov 17, 2016 - 10:05pm PT
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I like watching this guy. He's got some unusual, even artistic stunts.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Not much of this correlates directly with climbing.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 18, 2016 - 08:30am PT
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I love the sequence starting around 1:17---the guy has a sense of humor!
We always knew footwork was important.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 18, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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Not sure that video changes the odds, those are some of the top female climbers (according to the comments). The ladies have been cranking the OAC for ages.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Nov 18, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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for what its worth, there's no need for one arm pullup strength to climb well. i bet few of the best climbers do yet cruise 5.14's or harder.
i found rope climbing to be good training for one arms.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 18, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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I used to do 1,000 pull-ups daily in multiple sets over the course of the day, wearing a 15 pound backpack. The best I could ever do was a slow 1-armed let down. Never even came close to a 1-arm pull-up, but boy did I try!
Sounds like my experience. There is a huge genetic component here, with a certain trade-off between endurance and strength (slow-twitch vs. fast-twitch fiber proportion is part of it).
I ended up being content with the fact that I could hang in "full-up" or "half-up" position from either arm longer than most could from both arms. Also from fingertips. The "genetic content" of your muscles says a lot about how successful you'll be as you move toward the "strength" end of the training spectrum.
Connective tissue also matters a LOT!
I used to know a guy who was very strong both with weights and with climbing. Multiple one-arm pull-ups: No problem. One day he showed up with an impressive scar on the front of his shoulder. Apparently he'd been cranking a hard route and his bicep muscle tore loose at the shoulder-tendon insertion. It just "rolled up" into the crook of his elbow. One second he was cranking and feeling strong; the next he was falling in severe pain and needing surgery. And you get no warning prior to this sort of blow-out. You are feeling strong until the very second the tendon gives up the ghost.
Be careful out there!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 18, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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Over a rather wasted youth in gyms, I've encountered a few 100-pullup guys and none of them could do a one-arm pullup. I'm no expert on physical training, but I'm pretty sure that lots of high-repetition pullups is a seriously wrong approach to 1A pullups. Training endurance isn't going to get you high strength, as all the power-lifters and gymnasts of the world have figured out. High loads, relatively small number of repetitions, and substantial rests between sets seems to be the way to go.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Nov 20, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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I don't recall ever seeing planche push-ups. Very impressive.
As in gymnastics, body dimensions play a huge role. It helps to have short legs, except for the OA pull-ups.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Nov 20, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Planche pushups with behind-the-back claps too! Power to spare!
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zachh85
Boulder climber
Cleveland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2016 - 06:02pm PT
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Workout 9
58# assistance
OAC - 5,5,4,4 reps
Planche - 15,15,12,12 seconds
[youtube=https://youtu.be/fE28rMy8FAM]
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zachh85
Boulder climber
Cleveland
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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That's awesome!
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Nov 21, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
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Yeah, I'm so not worthy. It took me a couple of loops before I realized the jump was pretty impressive too.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 21, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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Jim Clipper, that little video is super impressive!
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