Look out Yosemite: Ondra is coming!

By your very own over emotional remarks you yourself confirmed there is aid involved.

By your very own over emotional remarks you yourself confirmed there is aid involved.

The election was heavily rigged to keep Hillary out of Washington.Her emails contained information on world wide pedophile ring involving her Clinton foundation
and many people in High places in Washington. Someone who spent years investigating her charity in Hati was assassinated recently. The Clinton charity was found linked to child trafficking.
Justice Scalia was assassinated for keeping all this knowledge under cover. Obama did not go to Scalia's funeral because he did not want to associate with a known pedophile enabler.

All climbers use aids, it is just a question of degree.

Naked chalkless and shoeless solo of FA walking distance from your home or BS.

I can't say for sure, but I am willing to guess that the pitches had all the draws and cams and other gear preplaced prior to the final send? Certain we observed all of this gear preplaced during rehearsals.

How does it work with protection in the route?
The pitches with bolts are 14 and 15 and some others of the grade about 8b. Otherwise it is mostly about fix pro. There are some pegs, beaks and copperheads. I decided for the same way as Tommy Caldwell with Kevin Jorgeson – I had prepared the quickdraws in situ. In the most difficult pitches they had been hanging there while in the easier ones I put them in myself. All up to 7c is purely on your own anchors but I finally chose the way that I only used the fixed pro and in between I climbed over it of my own accord. It doesn´t mean that belaying is not possible but I just didn´t feel like using it. In the first 20 pitches I mounted a friend or nut about 10 times.

pavelblazekIt's hard to believe but our stay here in the valley is slowly coming to an end. We have four more days before Adam, Heinz and Christian are flying back to Europe. Adam and I are taking two days rest, Heinz and Christian will take down the ropes from the top to the Wino Tower. If the weather permits we might go up to film the pitch 14 & 15 on Monday. There are no plans for Tuesday yet but few ideas - some of them a bit crazy - are floating around. Certainly stay tuned as nothing is over y

Naked chalkless and shoeless solo of FA walking distance from your home or BS.

Adam, let's start with those who paved the way, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. You've already commended their ascent, but is there anything else you wish to add?

It takes a lot courage and dedication to find a free route on El Cap, especially in that part as it looks so blank and steep. And the chance of encountering one section of total blankness is high. But Tommy just went for it and did not care. He spent a couple of years before he actually found the climbable link between the lower part of Mescalito and the higher section of Wall of Early Morning Light. This link is actually pitch 14 and 15, the crux traverses. Tommy and Kevin put so much effort into the climb and faced so many question marks and logistical problems that I cannot really compare my effort to theirs. I had it prepared, had all the knowledge. I knew it was possible. That was the most important thing! They demonstrated dedication and vision. Thank you Tommy and Kevin for this route, it is a true masterpiece.

El Capitan's granite slabs and cracks are very different to what you've been used to. How much did you have to change and adapt your style of climbing?

I expected Yosemite climbing to be different. I expected to struggle for the first days, mostly when crack climbing. But in the end I discovered that the cracks are kind of the same everywhere. What is really unique and weird through are the laybacks and face climbing, due to the friction and the footwork they require. Laybacks are incredibly strenuous (especially if you're not climbing them right) and require incredible body tension - due to the slippery and non-existing footholds. Let's say if some of the 8b+ laybacks were on sticky sandstone instead of slick glacier-polished granite, they would be easy 7a's. I really struggled on the laybacks in the beginning. They felt so insecure I thought I'd slip every second. I wasn't able to relax and I was scared.

So what about the face climbing

Footwork was the real struggle. I thought my footwork was quite good, I'm used to standing on terrible footholds, but the Yosemite footholds are on a different level. let me explain this better: if a route is even only slightly overhanging, you don't place all your weight on your feet, and 99% of 9a's are overhanging. Here though, almost all the time you're placing your entire weight on tiny razorblades. And this is crucial, because the holds are simply too poor to hang on. And most importantly, you do so for HOURS. The pressure of these razorblades onto the few millimeters of rubber on your rock shoes is incredible - it can literally tear them apart. Actually, every shoe feels too soft on the Dawn Wall. After trying numerous shoes, Katana Laces were the only ones which fit perfectly. Nevertheless, I had to resort to using razorblades and sandpaper to sharpen the edges of my shoes after a couple of tries.