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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 26, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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Interesting conversations in the beginning about why do such a thing, is it all ego etc?
IMO when a route is put up, the party is usually looking for a challenge. Challenges come in different forms, physical and mental are two main types one is looking for on a new route. So while you can run the rope and avoid putting in the work of drilling a bolt, you will let it run, till you feel it is absolutely necessary. The ego and not looking like a wimp in front of your partner or the crew of friends could influence that, yet it is good to be aware of how you feel when the ego is quite. Some people are better at that than others, yet who knows, just leave those routes alone and don't question why they have runouts that are not acceptable for you at the moment, come back when you can accept them for what they are.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 26, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Sers Ed and Eric, get out your guide PLEASE (gentle nudge). So much of worthy climbing is returning to rust and weeds!
nearly every free moment I have is dedicated to "getting the guide out"
it is a massive undertaking, and we are well aware of the both the need and the interest.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Dec 26, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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We did our best, mostly in NH..influenced by guys like Kurt Winkler. You just didn't bolt everywhere, only at stances. We eventually did some hook drilling as well, but never aid ladders or any rap nonsense.
People would give you crap "No one cares how the bolt goes in" BULL I care and I'm the one doing the f/a...go do your own climb however you like.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 26, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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I've only read the beginning and end of this thread but I didn't see the simplest explanation:
Placing bolts is a pain in the a$$
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Crump
Social climber
Canyon Lake, Texas
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Dec 26, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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If we have the privilege of hanging out in the future and I find out that you have done volunteer service by replacing bolts in any climbing area, your drinks are on me! Cheers!!!!
I salute all who volunteer and do this critical maintenance!. In sensitive access areas, removing risk of issues through maintenance is vital to protect access and the future of climbing.
Bolt Maintenance is a long standing and proud Texas tradition and I have and will buy multitudes of margaritas for those who give this gift of volunteer maintenance!!!!
See a bad bolt, help get it replaced. In Austin, we have a club which is nearing its 40th birthday, the Central Texas Mountaineers, and is directly responsible through agreements with the City of Austin and Travis County, and also with TPWD as a sponsor of the CTCC to maintain bolts in our parks.
They fund raise and we have been able to take care of our bolts. Our areas and challenges are small when compared to the challenges of Yosemite and other/remote areas. It will be a never ending challenge and I toast all who embrace this service!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 07:04pm PT
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Cathedrals love affair bump
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