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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2016 - 07:11pm PT
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"Communication, a polite term for,"changing your mind."
Well done Prod!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
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Well this thread was may more entertaining than I was expecting.
Nice work on both sides actually talking one on one. Gutsy.
Mike, you might want to delete your number off of here now, creepers like me might start calling for climbing tips and to invite you to family gatherings.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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At the August Sneak Preview party it showed a shorter version of the Reel Rock tour. Tonight in Tempe AZ I am seeing the tour in its entirety, Psyched!!!! For what I have seen so far the films are amazing especially the boat Baffin Island film. I give a big APPLAUSE to the film producers and the many mind twisting hours it takes to create these exciting films. Also a big APPLAUSE goes to the Sponsors, the climbing talent and their helpers.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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Even though it appears as though the controversy surrounding Libecki's film has been resolved It hit home with me. I have a 2 year old and my wife is currently pregnant with our second who will arrive in late November. I'm still an active climber and I think a lot about the risks I take in the mountains and how my decisions affect my family in addition to how they affect me. I still climb bigwalls (although not on the scale that Mike does) I climbed the Shield last June and a lot of people challenged me saying that I shouldn't be doing these things because I have kids and I think that sentiment is BS. I think its ridiculous to suggest we should stop climbing/adventuring just because we have kids. If we want to inspire our kids to get out their and enjoy life we need to lead by example. In addition one of my biggest motivations to keep climbing is so I'll be in good enough shape to show my kids the wonders of the mountains when they are old enough. (if they are stoked) One other thing I have noticed is that a lot of my friends have gotten hitched or had kids and then their partners expect them to stop doing the things they love. Someone asked my wife this summer why she hadn't told me to stop climbing walls and I though her response was perfect. She said that she loved me because of who I am, adventures climbing and all, and that if she asked me to stop doing these things she wasn't honoring the person she fell in love with and that would be hypocritical.
Last thing is that I met Libecki several times one of which was when I was working at neptune mountaineering and organizing their slideshows maybe 10-12 years ago. He struck me as being one of the most genuine and heartfelt people I have come across and if he's passing those values on to his daughter then he's doing a pretty bang up job.
my 2 cents
Mydans
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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Lol
Call me and tell me to f*#k off
I deserve it .
In more ways than you will ever understand.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 22, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
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Well done Prod. You stuck your neck out and made some comments. Got called out on it and handled it like a man. I pretty much feel the same way you do about parents and dads who climb a lot.....or golf a lot or do Iron-mans or any other time intensive hobby.
It takes a toll on kids. A very real one. I've been climbing for 20 years and have four kids from 10 years old to married and out of the house. I'm a total weekend warrior but there isn't a time I'm gone that I know in my gut that my kids would rather have me home. We often rationalize it to ourselves that "our kids benefit from us pursuing our passions and we inspire them with these rad things we do." That's a load of BS if we go too often. There's a total balance. They need us FIRST. Our passions should come second...or third or fourth actually to our marriage, our duty as a father, and our duty to provide (work).
A situation with a guy like Conrad Anker, etc who is a lifetime career "expeditionist" who makes a living as a climber is a tough one in my opion. That's a tougher ethical nut to crack. Being a devoted father and husband and being away a ton in a hostile environment is a heavy load. Think armed forces, crab fishermen, alpinist, you name it.
I swam on the US Team back in the 90's and was always uncomfortable with the way they portrayed Dara Torres. "Mom and Olympic Gold Medalist! You can do anything you set your mid to girls!!!" Well, Dara was never around for her daughter and had a couple men in the mix and was in the pool all day every day. Sometimes the tag line should be "You can do anything you set your mind to...as long as you're aware of the cost to your spouse and kids."
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
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Looks like micronut is going to be having a conversation with Dara next, lol.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 23, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Is this thread about the Reel Rock 11 or proper parenting methods…..and taught by which master?
So anybody with kids should not push the limits…not even football players, boxers, astronauts, army etc. Instead we should let the kids stay in their “I don’t want to do anything” comfort zone by purchasing them more cell phones and computer games so their tired parents can get a break from entertaining their kids? My kids were born in the rock gym and they did little climbing. So I didn’t force them to climb, but I forced them to camp, canoe, fish, hike etc and they didn’t get a choice in the matter. The end result is that they can teach Bear Grills a few new tricks on survival! The greater number of families these days are divorced. While the younger kid is at one parents house for the week, they really don’t care what the other parent is doing. Kids don’t think like parents, they are in their own world. My mission as a parent was to fill my two sons with as much street smarts as I could, and to enjoy life.
Mike, CHEERS! And many more adventures!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 23, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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Reel Rock 11…..OMG, I’m in the movie! Near the end of the Ashima Shiraishi- Kai Lightner movie is a two second clip of Alex Johnson, Marty and Ashima smiling for Ashima’s dad at the 2014 Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah. Sofia Long was there and took this photo of the fun. The clip in the movie is from Hisatoshi Shiraishi (Poppo).
Photo of me with Ashima Shiraishi’s parents Tsuya and Hisatoshi was taken at the Utah Petzl corporate grand opening party August 2014. Photo by Sofia Long. Its all about the Love!
Big THANKS to the movie Producers again for the energy!
Many Blessings to the Shiraishi family and the Lightner family.
All of the films were great, no complaints! I love the horrifying screams on the big falls! Kai's mom complaining about being his belay Bitch is hilarious! My second time seeing the Dodo’s Delight was just as enjoyable as the first.
Great fun!
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Sep 23, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
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Jesus nut, Dara looks like she stood a little too close to Jose Canseco.
Soldiers, firemen, and postal worker's families deal with this daily. It's not pleasant, it just is. You have to cherish the time you have, and that is the lesson for everyone. Even if you don't have a life threatening avocation, there is NO guarantee that you won't wake up dead some Wednesday. Sometimes things go south. It's sad, but these events, like we've had the past three weeks teach us...not only to be attentive, but to live our lives large. We're all heading to the same destination in our own way. Make the most of it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 23, 2016 - 05:46pm PT
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Watched it and liked them all. A lot of variety and good humor.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 24, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Yeah that Enormocast with Libecki was good. Just making it clear that I wasn't making any judgments on parenting by any of these guys. Just a good conversation about being a parent and a really busy/often absent dad..... Definitely not unique to the climbing world. I have been working through those in Enormocasts and really liked the one with Joe Kinder. Looking forward to watching the film.
Nice photos Marty. You're famous!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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I used to be so anti sender films for the mainstreaminess and bs over the top drama. Maybe they're catering more to climbers now or I don't know but you just gotta love em all. Every non climber and climber in the packed theater loved it.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Nov 29, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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Maybe it was just me, but I thought it was the least interesting Reel Rock to date. Hard to top Hazel and Alex for entertainment. haha
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cliffmama
Trad climber
Gunks
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Nov 30, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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karabin museum - Where can I get one of those SWEET Access Fund REEL ROCK pint glasses?
And back to the parenting thing - if you're not talking about expedition type adventures, for weekend cragging, I just brought my kids climbing with me as often as possible. Climbing wasn't associated with mommy getting away from the kids, it was mom sharing the fun. We had other climbers join us who had kids, and with enough adults around, we all got to climb. The kids could climb something easy or just play, but they were with us, and getting outside. Yeah, cragging parties with kids on 1 pitch climbs isn't everyone's style of "adventure", but we were still getting out there and sharing our passion with our kids. My daughters are young ladies now and both have a passion for climbing. It's wonderful to be able to share that with my kids. Unlike some of their peers, they're not embarrassed to be seen with their mom, they can't wait to go on climbing trips with me. I'm looking forward to them being rope guns for me on our upcoming climbing trip to Cuba.
Organizing a screening of REEL ROCK 11 this Saturday for the Gunks climbing community and I can't wait! I thought #10 was truly excellent. These guys have taken what was just bouldering porn in the past and elevated it to visually beautiful storytelling.
Jannette
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psykokid
Mountain climber
Pasadena
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Actually at Caltech proper, not JPL. Tickets procured and looking forward to tonight!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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My daughter's climbing team has organized a trip to a screening in Hermosa Beach tonight, and she has deigned to let me give her a ride (she's 13), so I'll be checking it out tonight too.
I had similar thoughts as Prod about the whole dad thing, not from having seen the movie, but from other press that Libecki has received. That's a complex issue though, so I try not to judge (though I do have my own opinions about that issue). As a parent, however, I will say that it's easy to comment when you're not one. Once you become one though, your world changes in ways you can never really contemplate, and your views will likely change substantially as well.
I hope the movie is as good as everyone says it is.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Got shut down at the showing in Bishop--way too many people. They should have set up a second showing. I'll be ordering the DVD and having a party to share it with friends.
BAd
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