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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 15, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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Reel Rock 11 premiered in Boulder tonight and it was another in a long line of great films by Sender Films/Big Up Productions. Young guns Ashira Shiraishi and Kai Lightner were the subject of the first film. Will Stanhope's and Adam Segal's attempt to free climb a wild finger crack in the Bugaboos was the second film. Canadian climber Brette Harrington was the subject of the third film. Scenes of her free soloing a long 5.10d route in Patagonia were amazing.
The final film was a fitting climax as four climbers, including our own Supertopoan Ben Ditto, spent two months partying, singing and actually climbing some big lines in the Baffin Islands. These guys know how to have fun!
Check out the Reel Rock 11 Tour when it comes to your area. You won't be disappointed(unless one of these extraordinary people sent your project!)
http://www.reelrocktour.com/
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 16, 2016 - 06:05am PT
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You won't be disappointed(unless one of these extraordinary people sent your project!)
Nice, looking forward to seeing it with the crew.
Reel Rock 11
Thursday, October 6, 2016
7:00pm 9:30pm
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Sep 17, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Enjoyed it!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 17, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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It's the Dodo's Delight
It's the Dodo's Delight
Shining bright and blue and white it's the Dodo's delight.....
One of the best climbing films I've see.
Prod.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 19, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
Agreed.
I was also not impressed with the portrayal of Mike Libecki as some awesome dad. Lets face it his girlfriend ended up pregnant, he went on the expedition anyway, and followed that up with many more, and talked to pictures of his abandoned daughter. Then comes home bigger than life, and when he's not planning the next expedition, and does some menial PTA type stuff. That might make for a great mountaineer, but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front.
Shortly after Rick A went to the Desert for the first time a few years ago with Brassnuts, which is only 7 hours from here. I asked him how he had never gone to the desert in all the years he'd lived in Boulder. His answer. I was raising my family. Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. That is the sign of a good dad.
Prod.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Sep 19, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front
I find it difficult to "grade" a parent on whether or not they are good parent based on time spent together. Many of my friends work long rotations away with long times at home. It certainly isn't the choice for everyone, but I have noticed that a majority of them spend an appreciable amount of very quality time with the kiddos when they are home.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 19, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
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Prod, do you know Mike? Menial PTA work does not get you Father of the year awards multiple times at your daughter's school. His daughter has traveled with him to many continents, and has gotten a perspective on the world few at her young age have. He is a fiercely dedicated and loving father, and I really think that you might want to reconsider your attack on as good a man as you could hope to meet.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 19, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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Art itself is open to criticism, but judging a person after a 20 minute flick is not a great idea. Can't really know a person till you walked in their shoes for a lifetime.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 19, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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Sounds pretty awesome.
Wish I was as good a dad as Prod wants us to know he is...
My dad worked 10 hours a day, I never saw him growing up, and all the cool stuff we bought as a middle class family is gone now. I'd take a Libeki any day. You should check out his interview on the Enormo he does quite a bit with his daughter.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:56am PT
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…and still no Dawn Wall.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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Hands down, the funniest in the series. I had real mixed feelings about the Libecki portion, too, and frankly, forgot it till just now. And I just saw it this past Friday down in Sacramento. Not gonna pass judgement on him, as I don't know him, but it left me uneasy.
Other than that...this is a great installment!
Also (as I posted on another thread), I got to hang with my good friend and Tahoe area climbing partner, Tom Stargaard. Bonus!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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I put it out there and I can take my lumps. Below I think Tanslacks said it better, as quoted here.
I had real mixed feelings about the Libecki portion, too, and frankly, forgot it till just now. And I just saw it this past Friday down in Sacramento. Not gonna pass judgement on him, as I don't know him, but it left me uneasy.
Wyorockman, Good points and maybe grading was a bit harsh, but I do see a difference between a parent who is away working rotation to provide for a family and a guy who is out doing his hobby/ love/ passion etc. To me, a good family member puts family first and sacrifices other pursuits.
WayneW. There was no personal attack on Mike from me, I am sure that he is a great loving compassionate kind soul. He certainly comes off that way. My criticism is in his neglect of family to pursue his mountaineering portfolio. Kids need stability, not knowing if dad is going to come home alive or not is not really reassuring. A spouse can make the decision to be with a risk taker, a kid does not have a choice.
Vitaliy M. A big part of that piece of art was portraying Mike as this great dad. It actually seemed like they went overboard on that notion to prove the point. My criticism is that I don't buy it, or as Tanslacks stated above it made him feel a little uneasy.
GDavis. I'm not a dad, I have a hard enough time providing for my dogs. I do not suppose that I'd be a better dad than Mike L either. I made a conscious effort to not be a dad knowing that I have a lot of selfish pursuits I want to pursue.
My take on the portrayal of Mike may be harsh and pointed, but I am not alone in the feeling that it didn't ring true, or left people with an uneasy feeling, or as another mountaineer friend said when discussing the film "Mountaineers suck as parents".
Cheers.
Prod.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:51am PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
Haven't seen the film and I don't know what the focus of Brette's part was, but her three hour free solo of Chiaro di Luna, a 750 meter 6b+ on Saint-Exupery is a pretty big milestone in Patagonia climbing.
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Mike Libecki
climber
the moment of now
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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PROD,
Sorry, I did not catch your first and last name?
And, also what is your contact info and what city do you live in?
Looking forward to meet you...
Hope life is sweet!
Libecki
801 453 0855
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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Sorry, I did not catch your first and last name?
And, also what is your contact info and where do you live?
Looking forward to meet you...
Hi Mike,
Yes sometimes life is sweet. My name is Guy Kenny. I live in Boulder Co. Why would you want to meet?
Prod.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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I do see a difference between a parent who is away working rotation to provide for a family and a guy who is out doing his hobby/ love/ passion etc. To me, a good family member puts family first and sacrifices other pursuits.
This gets a bit sticky when a person's avocation is also their vocation.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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After a decent conversation with Mike Libecki, where I took a good earful, I feel that a public apology is necessary to go along with the verbal apology I offered over the phone.
The wording of this criticism was out of line.
I was also not impressed with the portrayal of Mike Libecki as some awesome dad. Lets face it his girlfriend ended up pregnant, he went on the expedition anyway, and followed that up with many more, and talked to pictures of his abandoned daughter. Then comes home bigger than life, and when he's not planning the next expedition, and does some menial PTA type stuff. That might make for a great mountaineer, but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front.
There is no question on Mike's devotion and love of his daughter, and any community based volunteering is hardly menial. As well, I absolutely have no right to recommend a grade for his specific parenting based on a 20 minute short.
My apologizes Mike.
Prod.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Prod you are a good man to actually follow through, talk with the guy and apologize in public. Kudos!
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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Agreed with "Prod you are a good man to actually follow through, talk with the guy and apologize in public. Kudos!" but also kind of funny when someone anonymously rips on a public figure then gets called out by said person!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 21, 2016 - 07:11pm PT
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"Communication, a polite term for,"changing your mind."
Well done Prod!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
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Well this thread was may more entertaining than I was expecting.
Nice work on both sides actually talking one on one. Gutsy.
Mike, you might want to delete your number off of here now, creepers like me might start calling for climbing tips and to invite you to family gatherings.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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At the August Sneak Preview party it showed a shorter version of the Reel Rock tour. Tonight in Tempe AZ I am seeing the tour in its entirety, Psyched!!!! For what I have seen so far the films are amazing especially the boat Baffin Island film. I give a big APPLAUSE to the film producers and the many mind twisting hours it takes to create these exciting films. Also a big APPLAUSE goes to the Sponsors, the climbing talent and their helpers.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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Even though it appears as though the controversy surrounding Libecki's film has been resolved It hit home with me. I have a 2 year old and my wife is currently pregnant with our second who will arrive in late November. I'm still an active climber and I think a lot about the risks I take in the mountains and how my decisions affect my family in addition to how they affect me. I still climb bigwalls (although not on the scale that Mike does) I climbed the Shield last June and a lot of people challenged me saying that I shouldn't be doing these things because I have kids and I think that sentiment is BS. I think its ridiculous to suggest we should stop climbing/adventuring just because we have kids. If we want to inspire our kids to get out their and enjoy life we need to lead by example. In addition one of my biggest motivations to keep climbing is so I'll be in good enough shape to show my kids the wonders of the mountains when they are old enough. (if they are stoked) One other thing I have noticed is that a lot of my friends have gotten hitched or had kids and then their partners expect them to stop doing the things they love. Someone asked my wife this summer why she hadn't told me to stop climbing walls and I though her response was perfect. She said that she loved me because of who I am, adventures climbing and all, and that if she asked me to stop doing these things she wasn't honoring the person she fell in love with and that would be hypocritical.
Last thing is that I met Libecki several times one of which was when I was working at neptune mountaineering and organizing their slideshows maybe 10-12 years ago. He struck me as being one of the most genuine and heartfelt people I have come across and if he's passing those values on to his daughter then he's doing a pretty bang up job.
my 2 cents
Mydans
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 22, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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Lol
Call me and tell me to f*#k off
I deserve it .
In more ways than you will ever understand.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 22, 2016 - 12:23pm PT
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Well done Prod. You stuck your neck out and made some comments. Got called out on it and handled it like a man. I pretty much feel the same way you do about parents and dads who climb a lot.....or golf a lot or do Iron-mans or any other time intensive hobby.
It takes a toll on kids. A very real one. I've been climbing for 20 years and have four kids from 10 years old to married and out of the house. I'm a total weekend warrior but there isn't a time I'm gone that I know in my gut that my kids would rather have me home. We often rationalize it to ourselves that "our kids benefit from us pursuing our passions and we inspire them with these rad things we do." That's a load of BS if we go too often. There's a total balance. They need us FIRST. Our passions should come second...or third or fourth actually to our marriage, our duty as a father, and our duty to provide (work).
A situation with a guy like Conrad Anker, etc who is a lifetime career "expeditionist" who makes a living as a climber is a tough one in my opion. That's a tougher ethical nut to crack. Being a devoted father and husband and being away a ton in a hostile environment is a heavy load. Think armed forces, crab fishermen, alpinist, you name it.
I swam on the US Team back in the 90's and was always uncomfortable with the way they portrayed Dara Torres. "Mom and Olympic Gold Medalist! You can do anything you set your mid to girls!!!" Well, Dara was never around for her daughter and had a couple men in the mix and was in the pool all day every day. Sometimes the tag line should be "You can do anything you set your mind to...as long as you're aware of the cost to your spouse and kids."
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Sep 22, 2016 - 05:40pm PT
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Looks like micronut is going to be having a conversation with Dara next, lol.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 23, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Is this thread about the Reel Rock 11 or proper parenting methods…..and taught by which master?
So anybody with kids should not push the limits…not even football players, boxers, astronauts, army etc. Instead we should let the kids stay in their “I don’t want to do anything” comfort zone by purchasing them more cell phones and computer games so their tired parents can get a break from entertaining their kids? My kids were born in the rock gym and they did little climbing. So I didn’t force them to climb, but I forced them to camp, canoe, fish, hike etc and they didn’t get a choice in the matter. The end result is that they can teach Bear Grills a few new tricks on survival! The greater number of families these days are divorced. While the younger kid is at one parents house for the week, they really don’t care what the other parent is doing. Kids don’t think like parents, they are in their own world. My mission as a parent was to fill my two sons with as much street smarts as I could, and to enjoy life.
Mike, CHEERS! And many more adventures!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Sep 23, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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Reel Rock 11…..OMG, I’m in the movie! Near the end of the Ashima Shiraishi- Kai Lightner movie is a two second clip of Alex Johnson, Marty and Ashima smiling for Ashima’s dad at the 2014 Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah. Sofia Long was there and took this photo of the fun. The clip in the movie is from Hisatoshi Shiraishi (Poppo).
Photo of me with Ashima Shiraishi’s parents Tsuya and Hisatoshi was taken at the Utah Petzl corporate grand opening party August 2014. Photo by Sofia Long. Its all about the Love!
Big THANKS to the movie Producers again for the energy!
Many Blessings to the Shiraishi family and the Lightner family.
All of the films were great, no complaints! I love the horrifying screams on the big falls! Kai's mom complaining about being his belay Bitch is hilarious! My second time seeing the Dodo’s Delight was just as enjoyable as the first.
Great fun!
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Sep 23, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
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Jesus nut, Dara looks like she stood a little too close to Jose Canseco.
Soldiers, firemen, and postal worker's families deal with this daily. It's not pleasant, it just is. You have to cherish the time you have, and that is the lesson for everyone. Even if you don't have a life threatening avocation, there is NO guarantee that you won't wake up dead some Wednesday. Sometimes things go south. It's sad, but these events, like we've had the past three weeks teach us...not only to be attentive, but to live our lives large. We're all heading to the same destination in our own way. Make the most of it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 23, 2016 - 05:46pm PT
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Watched it and liked them all. A lot of variety and good humor.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 24, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Yeah that Enormocast with Libecki was good. Just making it clear that I wasn't making any judgments on parenting by any of these guys. Just a good conversation about being a parent and a really busy/often absent dad..... Definitely not unique to the climbing world. I have been working through those in Enormocasts and really liked the one with Joe Kinder. Looking forward to watching the film.
Nice photos Marty. You're famous!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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I used to be so anti sender films for the mainstreaminess and bs over the top drama. Maybe they're catering more to climbers now or I don't know but you just gotta love em all. Every non climber and climber in the packed theater loved it.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Nov 29, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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Maybe it was just me, but I thought it was the least interesting Reel Rock to date. Hard to top Hazel and Alex for entertainment. haha
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cliffmama
Trad climber
Gunks
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Nov 30, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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karabin museum - Where can I get one of those SWEET Access Fund REEL ROCK pint glasses?
And back to the parenting thing - if you're not talking about expedition type adventures, for weekend cragging, I just brought my kids climbing with me as often as possible. Climbing wasn't associated with mommy getting away from the kids, it was mom sharing the fun. We had other climbers join us who had kids, and with enough adults around, we all got to climb. The kids could climb something easy or just play, but they were with us, and getting outside. Yeah, cragging parties with kids on 1 pitch climbs isn't everyone's style of "adventure", but we were still getting out there and sharing our passion with our kids. My daughters are young ladies now and both have a passion for climbing. It's wonderful to be able to share that with my kids. Unlike some of their peers, they're not embarrassed to be seen with their mom, they can't wait to go on climbing trips with me. I'm looking forward to them being rope guns for me on our upcoming climbing trip to Cuba.
Organizing a screening of REEL ROCK 11 this Saturday for the Gunks climbing community and I can't wait! I thought #10 was truly excellent. These guys have taken what was just bouldering porn in the past and elevated it to visually beautiful storytelling.
Jannette
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psykokid
Mountain climber
Pasadena
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Actually at Caltech proper, not JPL. Tickets procured and looking forward to tonight!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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My daughter's climbing team has organized a trip to a screening in Hermosa Beach tonight, and she has deigned to let me give her a ride (she's 13), so I'll be checking it out tonight too.
I had similar thoughts as Prod about the whole dad thing, not from having seen the movie, but from other press that Libecki has received. That's a complex issue though, so I try not to judge (though I do have my own opinions about that issue). As a parent, however, I will say that it's easy to comment when you're not one. Once you become one though, your world changes in ways you can never really contemplate, and your views will likely change substantially as well.
I hope the movie is as good as everyone says it is.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Got shut down at the showing in Bishop--way too many people. They should have set up a second showing. I'll be ordering the DVD and having a party to share it with friends.
BAd
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Will be there tonight as well. I have enjoyed these every year and always look forward to the enthusiastic crowd at Cal Tech.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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There's gonna be a new Needles Guidebook in the raffle...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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So I saw this last night and enjoyed it, but also realized I'm no longer the demographic they're appealing to. Also, I don't think my attention span for watching climbing is as long as I thought it was. I think I enjoyed Dodo's Delight the most though. Crazy how these guys just fire up a virgin 3,000' ft. walls on Baffin with just the rope, the rack and the jacket on their backs. Really impressive stuff.
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Banks
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Crazy how these guys just fire up a virgin 3,000' ft. walls on Baffin with just the rope, the rack and the jacket on their backs. Really impressive stuff.
And don't forget a belly full of wine!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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"no inuit would ever do that!"
Yeah I was wondering how bold a move that was. Especially with a 75 year old captain who would probably be quite content to die at sea...
I thought the show was great. They should re-name Superdad's film to "All's well that ends well."
Anyone notice how Ashima would be looking at the next sequence and just slowly close and open her eyes? Not a blink, but some kind of reset or momentary meditation?
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