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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Sep 13, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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Sweet pics brah! Quality time!
Here's one of Su Su at the magic wall.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 13, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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You gotta frame that one for Sue! Nice shot! Golden....
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Sep 14, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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this just in - just sent you a pm about Shuteye... A friend and I are flying in for a quick 5 day trip soon and would love to see a local's recommended hit list if you can spare a few minutes :-) Thanks! Let me know if you got the message. Cheers!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 14, 2016 - 12:32pm PT
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Brass, didn't get it. Try jross1 8 3 8@gmail with no spaces between the numbers.
So the shoulders are already good? Sh#t yeah.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 14, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
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Sweet pics.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 14, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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I don't think this guys name was Bob. Maybe a new guy?
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 14, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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LOL. Jefe and I were referring to this guy. The Painter Bob Ross and in all fairness he isn't my uncle and he didn't get us stoned as children.
Micro, that is some of the best riding. We used to do a loop from Bass Lake via 007 to 0007 trails up to the lookout, then drop down passed the Moto Wall (named for motorcyclist riding by) to Gaggs camp and back down Central Camp. It was a full tank for my 450 and multiple crashes, lol.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 14, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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You boys need to hook Brassnuts up with the beta! He only climbs 5.5 but he does have his own starter rack and a Figure 8.
Brassnuts if you need a dirtbike for the approach let me know!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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Da kine Jefe. Thanks for posting.
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Sep 14, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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Shuteye Zen Master!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 14, 2016 - 06:25pm PT
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Jefe = Boss.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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I really hope the Shuteye remains the way it is. It why a lot of climbers tried to keep it quiet, but the way I see it is that climbers, dirt-bikers, 4-wheels, hunters, hikers can all share the area well. They've been doing a great job for a very long time.
And they ALL HAVE A SHARED INTEREST in keeping things just the way they are. They're perfect! I bet the local rangers would agree.
Then again, I don't live there, so my opinion is somewhat meaningless.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2016 - 08:49pm PT
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Since my original post was mostly just jibberish captions, there's some more stuff I wanted to say.
(WOT, sorry not sorry)
For me, climbing has always been more about just the climbing, probably more so as I've gotten older.
Connecting with the people I'm with, the environment, the vibe- that's what's really important to me. Climbing is the icing on the cake.
Usually my climbing trips are to meet up with my old friends, people I've climbed with for 25 years, and usually in old, familiar haunts like Josh or Bishop.
This trip was different.
I'd spent a great day cruising a long route at the Cochise Stronghold with Jeremy last year. We got along great and felt like lifelong buds. No stress, nothing weird, just all fun on the rock. Definitely a good blind date, and that's usually not my trip.
For years I'd seen Justin's spectacular photos of Shuteye and really wanted to make it out for one of the gatherings but it never worked out.
I'm a weekend warrior and super slammed at work but saw a holiday weekend coming and tacked on a few days of PTO.
I'd never met Justin but he was amped, open and welcoming as soon as my plan hatched. I knew it would be groovy. I had zero trepidation other than knowing he was a metal head.
Well, I was welcomed into his home like family. And as was to be expected, Justin's partner Mindo was just as nice. Same with the dogs- no weirdness, all good, all around.
Let me tell you, Shuteye delivers and scratches all the itches for me.
Breathtaking views, amazing rock, out-of-this-world trees, no people, and fun climbing.
Having the local boy tour was the best! So many cool little zones. Truly magical little pockets hidden up there. I felt like a Japanese tourist, taking photos of every moss covered tree, every climbable boulder (there are a zillion), and every view of the High Sierra.
Shuteye's position blew me away- a vantage and sense of place I'd never felt. Weird to see Mammoth Mountain from the west!
One of my favorite spots was high on the northern part of the ridge, where shocking views, bare rock, and twisted trees dominate. I felt like I was in an Ansel Adams book. Then- The sunset, unreal. The milky way, mental. The sunrise, unbelievable.
But the hi light for me was an afternoon bouldering session high in the southern sector.
Adolescent surfers draw pictures of perfect waves on their notebooks. If I had been a climber in Jr High, this is the spot I would have doodled and daydreamed about in class.
Perched on a sloping, smooth granite bench 1000ft above the valley floor were a cluster of tall, perfect eggs bathed in afternoon light. Buttermilk quality rock and lines with no one around. Climb one, and see another from the top. Repeat.
We were cragging and didn't have a pad so it was mostly a "moving over stone" session on easy highballs, but I vowed to return with a pad someday to this very special spot for me. I actually got a little emotional. Actually, I always get emotional but this time it was different :-)
Hanging with the Ross Bros and Mindo was nonstop hi jinx. We felt like lifelong friends, laughing and bullshitting. I listened to some Metal, they heard some Nap Rock. The only thing missing was a fire. But the Milky Way, shooting stars, and satellites were way better anyway.
I guess my takeaway from this trip, aside from visiting a new and amazing area was this-
Be spontaneous.
Idling gets you nowhere.
F*#k work pressures.
Spend on experience, not stuff.
Trust your gut.
Go into situations with an open mind and open heart, be yourself and great things will happen.
I had a great time visiting Shuteye!
Thanks for reading...if you did! (this is why I just posted photos before :-)
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 14, 2016 - 09:12pm PT
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^^^SOoo splitter;)
Ur right tho, that place is Aaawe-sum!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 15, 2016 - 07:11am PT
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Some great thoughts Jefe, really like how you ended that.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Sep 15, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Good stuff!! Howdy Ross Brothers! Had a good laugh about yer Uncle;)
Haha......Bob's your Uncle.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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More pics
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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Still sorting through pics and loving the memories!
Can't wait to return!
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perswig
climber
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Sep 18, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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I came across this and for some reason it reminded me of your TR:
"We live in a neurotic time, beset by exploiters, wasters, and plunderers.
A few brief days with men at ease with the wilderness and at peace with themselves is a healing respite."
Lew Dietz
Dale
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
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Yeah Dale-
That pretty much sums it up.
In simpler, more permanent terms...
:-)
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