Shuteye micro

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Messages 1 - 44 of total 44 in this topic

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 12, 2016 - 11:21pm PT

Finally visited Shuteye Ridge.
It was fun.
Ross Bros rule.
Thanks Ross Bros, you rule.

So much awesome hair on my flight.

Phony trees await.

It was time for me to peel back some layers.

Jeremy took me to the smallest dome for this tuggy 11b.

We had sensitive man time.

See, we commune with the rock.

I bathed in all that was beautiful.

Pretty gnarly drive to 15 Foot Dome

Sleep is overrated. Coffee and sunrises like this are not.

I had my own Temple Burn

I had some questions for this tree.
His answers were kinda cryptic.

Are you guys related to Bob Ross?

This one, well we just walked on by. Seemed grumpy.

This one said "you should go bouldering."

Take me to your vee zeros please.

Dreamy

It was delightful. The best, really.

What kind of rental does a boulderer drive to shuteye?
fee OTTTTTT

Nothing witty to say about these fine humans, just thanks.

Dogs. Thank doG.

They earn their burns here. Approach sandbag.

About as hard as the problems I did.

F ucking *Metal*

So splitter.

Thanks again Justin and Jeremy.
You sure know how to make a guy feel welcome.
You live in a truly spectacular place.

Much love.
DRL out

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Sep 12, 2016 - 11:34pm PT

cool

perswig

climber

Sep 12, 2016 - 11:38pm PT

Spare, but not sparse.

Thanks!
Dale

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Sep 13, 2016 - 07:52am PT

Perfection in a Trip Report.

What a place eh? Macronut and I were out there Saturday morning cruising around on dirt bikes for the first time up there. That road to the lookout is no joke. Not a bad place to catch the sunrise.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Sep 13, 2016 - 08:35am PT

Fun Times

TFPU

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 11:08am PT

Those boulders are so cool looking

thebravecowboy

climber

The Good Places

Sep 13, 2016 - 11:14am PT

so wait, non-locals are welcome if they're SNAG-aligned synchronously with the locals? WTF, NO BETA FOR OUTSIDERS! That place must suck. ;-)

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 11:31am PT

Sleep is overrated. Coffee and sunrises like this are not.

My wife has a plaque over our coffee maker reading, "Coffee! You can sleep when you're dead."

Glad you made it to the center of California, but even more glad that you posted those wonderful pictures and commentaries. Thanks much.

John

Ed H

Trad climber

Santa Rosa, CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 12:53pm PT

Great pics thanks - can't wait to get back there

Killer K

Boulder climber

Sacramento, CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 01:07pm PT

I know the approach to that cliff. Luckily the scenery and boulders getting there offer some relief. The boulder cave is rad!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Sep 13, 2016 - 02:39pm PT

Really nice picture! 2/10!

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Sep 13, 2016 - 03:07pm PT

The crusty old guy up at the lookout tower seems like he has climbed some stuff. he was talking about a first ascent he put up on angels wings back in the day. Dropped a lot of names like Harding and Leversee and Kauk and McDevitt.

yanqui

climber

Balcarce, Argentina

Sep 13, 2016 - 03:31pm PT

We got one of them fee OTTTTTT rentals too. Those car rental dudes must be able to spot the boulderers a-coming.

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 13, 2016 - 05:33pm PT

Shared a ton of laughs with Jefe and Jeremy. Believe it or not, it felt good to belay. Next time I should be able to climb.

Yeah Bob Ross is our uncle. He used to get us stoned and teach us how to fingerpaint when we were kids. Guess the pussy producers wouldn’t aire the footage cause we were so stoned.

doughnutnational

Gym climber

its nice here in the spring

Sep 13, 2016 - 06:42pm PT

Met the look out keeper a few weeks ago, if I knew he was your uncle maybe I could have name dropped and got him to keep me safe for the awesome ride down.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 06:55pm PT

The Ross boys are rad! Typical brothers...one is somewhat mellow/passive, the other is the generally the opposite.

Met both dudes, both are good dudes. Bluey endorsed, FWIW!!!!

Seriously though. Great place to get away from people, and meet some really solid, honest other people.

And their dogs are also really cool! Seriously.

EDIT: Glad you got to see it, Jefe. Just wish you gave a heads-up you were coming. I coulda crashed it too!!!

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Sep 13, 2016 - 07:49pm PT

That'd probably be John Dossi, YOSAR team leader bitd. He and Werner dated.

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 13, 2016 - 08:07pm PT

It was cool meeting you earlier this year bluering.

Alright Jefe, this sh#t below is some splitter metal. Put on some headphones and give it an honest listen.One of two things will happen. You might watch it and be like, thanks dickwad for wasting 17 minutes of my life. Or and more likely, you will find meaning in your life and spread the good word of Between the Buried and Me to everyone you meet. I even go door to door and recite their gospel.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2016 - 08:11pm PT

Thanks dickwad.

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 13, 2016 - 08:18pm PT

Lol, anytime braj

Dan McDevitt

Trad climber

yosemite

Sep 13, 2016 - 08:55pm PT

Sweet pics brah! Quality time!
Here's one of Su Su at the magic wall.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Sep 13, 2016 - 09:14pm PT

You gotta frame that one for Sue! Nice shot! Golden....

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Sep 14, 2016 - 10:11am PT

this just in - just sent you a pm about Shuteye... A friend and I are flying in for a quick 5 day trip soon and would love to see a local's recommended hit list if you can spare a few minutes :-) Thanks! Let me know if you got the message. Cheers!

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 14, 2016 - 12:32pm PT

Brass, didn't get it. Try jross1 8 3 8@gmail with no spaces between the numbers.

So the shoulders are already good? Sh#t yeah.

Nate D

climber

San Francisco

Sep 14, 2016 - 12:56pm PT

Sweet pics.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Sep 14, 2016 - 01:26pm PT

I don't think this guys name was Bob. Maybe a new guy?

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 14, 2016 - 02:14pm PT

LOL. Jefe and I were referring to this guy. The Painter Bob Ross and in all fairness he isn't my uncle and he didn't get us stoned as children.

Micro, that is some of the best riding. We used to do a loop from Bass Lake via 007 to 0007 trails up to the lookout, then drop down passed the Moto Wall (named for motorcyclist riding by) to Gaggs camp and back down Central Camp. It was a full tank for my 450 and multiple crashes, lol.

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Sep 14, 2016 - 02:48pm PT

You boys need to hook Brassnuts up with the beta! He only climbs 5.5 but he does have his own starter rack and a Figure 8.

Brassnuts if you need a dirtbike for the approach let me know!

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Sep 14, 2016 - 03:08pm PT

Da kine Jefe. Thanks for posting.

Dan McDevitt

Trad climber

yosemite

Sep 14, 2016 - 04:56pm PT

Shuteye Zen Master!

Kalimon

Social climber

Ridgway, CO

Sep 14, 2016 - 06:25pm PT

Jefe = Boss.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Sep 14, 2016 - 08:39pm PT

I really hope the Shuteye remains the way it is. It why a lot of climbers tried to keep it quiet, but the way I see it is that climbers, dirt-bikers, 4-wheels, hunters, hikers can all share the area well. They've been doing a great job for a very long time.

And they ALL HAVE A SHARED INTEREST in keeping things just the way they are. They're perfect! I bet the local rangers would agree.

Then again, I don't live there, so my opinion is somewhat meaningless.

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2016 - 08:49pm PT

Since my original post was mostly just jibberish captions, there's some more stuff I wanted to say.
(WOT, sorry not sorry)

For me, climbing has always been more about just the climbing, probably more so as I've gotten older.
Connecting with the people I'm with, the environment, the vibe- that's what's really important to me. Climbing is the icing on the cake.
Usually my climbing trips are to meet up with my old friends, people I've climbed with for 25 years, and usually in old, familiar haunts like Josh or Bishop.
This trip was different.

I'd spent a great day cruising a long route at the Cochise Stronghold with Jeremy last year. We got along great and felt like lifelong buds. No stress, nothing weird, just all fun on the rock. Definitely a good blind date, and that's usually not my trip.

For years I'd seen Justin's spectacular photos of Shuteye and really wanted to make it out for one of the gatherings but it never worked out.
I'm a weekend warrior and super slammed at work but saw a holiday weekend coming and tacked on a few days of PTO.

I'd never met Justin but he was amped, open and welcoming as soon as my plan hatched. I knew it would be groovy. I had zero trepidation other than knowing he was a metal head.
Well, I was welcomed into his home like family. And as was to be expected, Justin's partner Mindo was just as nice. Same with the dogs- no weirdness, all good, all around.

Let me tell you, Shuteye delivers and scratches all the itches for me.
Breathtaking views, amazing rock, out-of-this-world trees, no people, and fun climbing.

Having the local boy tour was the best! So many cool little zones. Truly magical little pockets hidden up there. I felt like a Japanese tourist, taking photos of every moss covered tree, every climbable boulder (there are a zillion), and every view of the High Sierra.
Shuteye's position blew me away- a vantage and sense of place I'd never felt. Weird to see Mammoth Mountain from the west!
One of my favorite spots was high on the northern part of the ridge, where shocking views, bare rock, and twisted trees dominate. I felt like I was in an Ansel Adams book. Then- The sunset, unreal. The milky way, mental. The sunrise, unbelievable.

But the hi light for me was an afternoon bouldering session high in the southern sector.
Adolescent surfers draw pictures of perfect waves on their notebooks. If I had been a climber in Jr High, this is the spot I would have doodled and daydreamed about in class.
Perched on a sloping, smooth granite bench 1000ft above the valley floor were a cluster of tall, perfect eggs bathed in afternoon light. Buttermilk quality rock and lines with no one around. Climb one, and see another from the top. Repeat.
We were cragging and didn't have a pad so it was mostly a "moving over stone" session on easy highballs, but I vowed to return with a pad someday to this very special spot for me. I actually got a little emotional. Actually, I always get emotional but this time it was different :-)

Hanging with the Ross Bros and Mindo was nonstop hi jinx. We felt like lifelong friends, laughing and bullshitting. I listened to some Metal, they heard some Nap Rock. The only thing missing was a fire. But the Milky Way, shooting stars, and satellites were way better anyway.

I guess my takeaway from this trip, aside from visiting a new and amazing area was this-
Be spontaneous.
Idling gets you nowhere.
F*#k work pressures.
Spend on experience, not stuff.
Trust your gut.
Go into situations with an open mind and open heart, be yourself and great things will happen.

I had a great time visiting Shuteye!
Thanks for reading...if you did! (this is why I just posted photos before :-)

BLUEBLOCR

Social climber

joshua tree

Sep 14, 2016 - 09:12pm PT

^^^SOoo splitter;)

Ur right tho, that place is Aaawe-sum!

this just in

climber

Justin Ross from North Fork

Sep 15, 2016 - 07:11am PT

Some great thoughts Jefe, really like how you ended that.

tiki-jer

Trad climber

fresno/clovis

Sep 15, 2016 - 08:47am PT

Good stuff!! Howdy Ross Brothers! Had a good laugh about yer Uncle;)
Haha......Bob's your Uncle.

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2016 - 08:56pm PT

More pics

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 05:35pm PT

Still sorting through pics and loving the memories!

Can't wait to return!

perswig

climber

Sep 18, 2016 - 06:15pm PT

I came across this and for some reason it reminded me of your TR:

"We live in a neurotic time, beset by exploiters, wasters, and plunderers.
A few brief days with men at ease with the wilderness and at peace with themselves is a healing respite."
Lew Dietz

Dale

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 07:58pm PT

Yeah Dale-
That pretty much sums it up.

In simpler, more permanent terms...

:-)

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Sep 18, 2016 - 08:26pm PT

A little piece of Heaven, I tell ya!

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Sep 19, 2016 - 08:04am PT

Adolescent surfers draw pictures of perfect waves on their notebooks. If I had been a climber in Jr High, this is the spot I would have doodled and daydreamed about in class.

Perfect.