Do I need crampons for Bear Creek Spire this weekend?

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jun 27, 2016 - 12:13pm PT

This is not a troll?!

OjaiClimber

Trad climber

Ojai, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2016 - 12:17pm PT

In order to receive what type of response exactly? It would be a pretty lame troll.

OjaiClimber

Trad climber

Ojai, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2016 - 12:30pm PT

Lol, that's me too. I don't usually post over here on SuperTopo unless I need actual climbing information. I know there's a lot of banter on these forums but SuperTopo seems to have way way more information on alpine and obscure trad climbing.

overwatch

climber

Arizona

Jun 27, 2016 - 03:04pm PT

Hope you bought a lotto ticket

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jun 28, 2016 - 12:32am PT

Great you are alive. Climbing tenaya peak while the large chunk of snow is there is a gamble honestly, even with an early star. I have seen the majority of that thing come down a few years ago, was an incredible sight. Too bad there is no warning in a guidebook...

micronut

Trad climber

Fresno/Clovis, ca

Jun 28, 2016 - 11:59am PT

Yikes! Frightening. Could have been tragic.

I'm not usually the "What were you two thinking!!! That massive snow-pile sits on a freaking slab in the sun only an idiot would go up there....seriously....what a gamble just to go up there on a sunny day in spring, that's basic mountain awareness 101, what do you think that slab just slowly melts all day long every year and never releases? Fools for even being up there! Fools I say!!! Fools!" guy.

But I won't be that guy. Not today. We all learn lessons out there don't we. I've done my share of regretful decision making in the mountains over the years. Sometimes ya get bit, sometimes you don't. So glad it ended well. Stay stoked and stay safe out there,

Scott

OjaiClimber

Trad climber

Ojai, Ca

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2016 - 01:36pm PT

Hey Scott, thanks for not saying anything...ummm. Lol. Yes, basic mountaineering skills 101...except I'm a climber and have not much mountaineering skills. I've tons tons of alpine climbs, Dark Star, Red Dihedral, Bear Creek Spire, Sun Ribbon Arete, Venitiun Blind, Moon Goddess, Triple Crown in Tuolunme, etc but my partner has always been the one who navigated me through the snow and he had just left for Peru. I guess I forgot who the pro was.

Texplorer

Trad climber

Sacramento

Jun 29, 2016 - 01:16pm PT

Here is a pic from 6am on 6-26-2016. I believe we are just below the flake your gf hid under. You can see the snow far above doesn't look too menacing here.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Jun 29, 2016 - 01:42pm PT

I first climbed the Tenaya Peak buttress in 1977. The Roper High Sierra Guide, then the most current available, described the route going by a snowfield that linges [sic] until late season. Thus, we called it the "linging snowfield" route for several years.

John

labrat

Trad climber

Erik O. Auburn, CA

Jun 29, 2016 - 01:56pm PT

"I don't usually post over here on SuperTopo unless I need actual climbing information."

Are you sure you are not trolling? ;-)

Glad you did not die and thanks for posting.

HighTraverse

Trad climber

Bay Area

Jul 12, 2016 - 04:40pm PT

You're a very lucky pair!

There's a reason alpine climbers make an Alpine Start (pre-dawn). Get up the bloody mountain before the snow/ice start to melt in the sun.
Not because it's easier to travel on firm snow/ice but because when it starts to melt it becomes unpredictable. Especially on smooth slabs.
Also what looks like a very small patch of snow from the car is likely much larger than you think.

Carry on!