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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Stewart Johnson,
I don't doubt there are other paths to follow. But I haven't found one that I'd call third class. Let's just say I haven't found any way that I'd send some one up with no climbing experience (i.e. third class).
I've been up there 4 or 5 times, and although we mostly third classed everything, There is a step on the ridge that is about 15' high, just before you walk the last couple hundred yards to the summit. On that step, there is a mantle move that is probably 5.6 or 5.7. It is the easiest way I have found. I've tried to the left and right, but those aren't as easy.
If you were coming down the ridge, you could probably just jump off this part, if your knees could take it. Maybe this is how you've done it?
As for gaining the saddle, the way I've gone is 5.4 ish on the back side, but there are other ways that may be easier, this is just the path I enjoy going up. We've also been down the front side of the saddle, which probably would be fourth class ish, if you found the right path. But there is still that step that you have to do before that.
I certainly don't doubt your recollection of the descent, this is just how I remember it. Glad to have shared a summit with you either way. It's nice up there.
 Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 12:49pm PT
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With all this new info and pics coming in about The Sphinx, I'm going to hold off and let the dust settle before attempting to do a definitive topo. You'll notice I did a Sphinx topo on MP, but this new info is rapidly making that effort obsolete. Maybe someone has done Big Horn or the South Face and has some details to share regarding those routes?
One climber's 3rd class V-easy is another climber's 5.10+ solo.
Nice the way this string is bringing more information to light about this conspicuous feature right next to the Tioga Road. So far, we've found out that "Cerro K'narle'" (4-pitches 5.9) is a good route with a long history of ascents and that the "Great Googley Boogley" (4-pitches 5.10) is largely high-quality.
At least we haven't stirred up a hornet's nest of vitriol.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Hi Eric! Sorry man I don't jump off stuff
I don't Boulder because of that!
Can't recall anything worth noting
down climbing the ridge back to
the base where I leave a pack
But I could see just moving through the
Mantle you call 5.7 on the down.
I'm Trying to get down there and
get up Cerro Knarle ' before the snow
Flies! I agree it's a special summit
What a view !
Cheers
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Stewart,
Hope you get up there this season. Maybe give The Great Googley Boogley a run if you have time?
Bruce,
Could you check your email? I PM'd you through the Supertopo about a route in Little Yosemite I'm trying to find info on.
Munge,
Thanks for the encouragement (I think?). Yes I have some time on my hands again, and I'm putting it to good use as far as the project goes.
Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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He's working on the other project, I can assure you of that!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Paul Teare,
Wayne Wallace sent me his journal page from his 1984 first ascent on the south face. He used the formation(?) name Cerro Knarle' at that time.
In ablegabel's route list, he has your 1987 route with that same name.
Was Cerro Knarle' intended as the name of the formation?
On Wayne's route, apparently pitch 1 or pitch 3 is a 5.10a face, where a KB piton was used for pro. This might help in locating the climb.
He also said "It did go up the most prominent dihedrals".
So my conclusion at present is that the red line you drew is the Wallace South Face route.
Is this correct?
Is there a fixed KB for pro on p1 or p3?
If this is correct, could you draw in your 1987 route with Todd Worsfold?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool, Ed. Summit register is a great original source!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 01:12am PT
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Is the "narrow diagonaling chimney" really the "Orange Chimney" (5.9)?
Lots and lots of questions.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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i did the fa of bighorn with mike strassman wonder where you got the route info as i did not report the route. on your topo it is right of route #6
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 09:20am PT
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I got the Big Horn info off of Eric Gabel's topo above. Corrections most welcome.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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East side underground,
To be clear, the overlay I posted was just a guess, and probably a poor one at that, based on what I could gather from the summit register and a fading memory. I tried to make that very clear when I posted it up thread (post #58)
It was reposted with an attempt to correct some of my guesses by Clint (post #178), as new information came in.
That being said, I'm glad some light is finally being shed on where some of the routes go. Your line looks cool. Was wondering if it was loose up in the roof area?
I think I found a stopper from your ascent when I climbed around the corner to check out our options, while putting up The Great Googley Boogley (#6 on that overlay).
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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One good thing about this string is that it's leading, albeit slowly, toward an accurate topographic diagram of The Sphinx. Just have to sort out and reconcile all the data.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 11:40pm PT
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If ablegabel stepped around a corner on the Great Googley Boogley and found a stopper, my guess is that Big Horn is A. But . . . but . . . but . . . B does look interesting though.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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hey all bighorn pretty much follows route "A" on clints topo but toword top tends more right thru cracks in center of slab like "headwall " where A and B converge cheers
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Paul - I've updated the overlay.
Hopefully close now!
(You might have to refresh your browser to see the updated version).
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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strassman's original topo we used to call the crag pronghorn dome edit it does look like you are close with your A line clint after checking topo
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
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Sure looks like Clint's line matches the Bighorn topo, almost exactly.
Want to conserve all these changes while I await further developments before assimilating them in The Sphinx topo on Mountain Project. I notice there that Cerro K'Narle' and Bighorn are both misplaced, but the exact location of the South Face route still remains highly fluid.
Just keep the information pouring in here. I'm sure it'll all result in an accurate topographic in the long run. That Bighorn topo seems in exact accord with the features you can see in the photograph.
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