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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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May 27, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
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Wow I didn't know there was that many climbs in the Ellery Bowl area...
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Friend
climber
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May 27, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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Awesome!! Thanks for the post Bruce.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Cool to see Morcomm Press knocking out more material! I must have gone through 3-4 Skyline guidebooks over the years.
I'll have to get this one too. Thanks, Bruce!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 28, 2016 - 12:38am PT
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awesome thanks!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2016 - 01:05am PT
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Gonna lug some copies up to Tuolumne after the Memorial Day zoo dies down, so the Ellery Bowl Guidebook should be available at Tioga Pass Resort for the breakfast, lunch, dinner and homemade pie crowd in the cafe. Lynne's the one who insisted I do another version of the old 1992 guide, but the whole project expanded and got out-of-hand the more I worked on it.
Think I should expand it later to include Speed of Life for sure and maybe the Sphinx above US 120 in Lee Vining Canyon. Maybe I'll wind up taking over the whole Lee Vining Canyon area someday? But that's a real big project that could take a couple more years, especially with the boulders in the campgrounds. But this one is a nice little self-contained project that should get people walking out the old Mining Road and enjoying the nice views, beautiful weather and ultra-clean glacier polished granite. There's certainly room for a bunch of new boulder problems in the talus. Sure pebble pullers will find some nice ones if they poke around.
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WBraun
climber
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May 28, 2016 - 06:38am PT
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Too bad the Sport Shop I managed in Tuolumne doesn't exist any more.
Walleye
What's there now? an empty paved lot for parking only?
Best route in Ellery Bowl is "Speed of Life"
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WBraun
climber
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May 28, 2016 - 07:17am PT
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Bummer, why is everything turning into parking lots?
America is 0wned by vehicles and machines.
This why so many try to escape the machines to the forest.
So what are you doing now?
Are finished with working in Tuolumne meadows for this summer?
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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May 28, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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bruce, is there a lot more routes than in my old guidebook you got to me a few years back? ss
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2016 - 02:03pm PT
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A few more routes, yes, Steve, but also much corrected and upgraded with a lot more color pics and topos. Bet more people visit the Demonology Cliff Band and the Dinosaur Crag as a result. But we'll have to wait and see.
It'll only take 2 more color plates to add "Speed of Life", which really belongs in the book too I agree. Just got to wait a little longer to lug my refurb D7100 up the hill and snap a few.
Too bad about the Mountain Shop, Walleye. But I bet a lot more people will hang out up at the Pass now. The Shop was a cultural landmark I'd say and the Dark Powers That Be realized that if they want to curtail the "Climbing Problem" in YNS the best way to do it is to kill the culture. You know Blah, Blah, Blah, but that's the net effect of such closures. It's like Stalin or Hitler rewriting history to suite their long-term political purposes.
The Access Fund (told me off the record) that they did talk to the Park about the Mountain Shop closure, but agreed that a new one could open in Lee Vining. Not such a good solution but that's what they were told. Who knows? This is hearsay of course.
Oh well! Hard to play against the House if they own all the chips.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 28, 2016 - 02:31pm PT
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Bummer, why is everything turning into parking lots?
Joni Mitchell called it years back.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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Yup. It's easier to control crowds in a parking lot with tasers, night sticks, truncheons, and, ultimately, machine guns. They've got years of experience at doing that.
Blatant self-promotion bump for more exposure . . .
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 11:00pm PT
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There are five previously undocumented climbs at the Spillway Crag, and "Vaino's Arete" (5.12b) on the upper tier of the Dinosaur Crag. Al Dude tells me Vaino did it in the middle '80s and said it is one of the best things in Ellery Bowl. Doubt if it's had a second though.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 29, 2016 - 11:09pm PT
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Top-rope cover shot?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 01:07am PT
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There are lots of leads of course, most of them cracks, but almost everything in the area can be top-roped. The cover pic just happened to illustrate the kind of glacier-polished rock found in Ellery Bowl. It also framed the title. Aesthetic and layout considerations? There's actually a pretty dramatic lead shot opposite the title page a little further inside. Lots of color prints throughout. Have to get the book to see 'em!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 30, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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Nice Bruce!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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May 30, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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another money grubbing guidebook author trying to milk millions from his climbing brethren.
BTW Nice job Bruce! Thanks.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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May 30, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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^^^^
Is that Yerian in the above pic, Bruce?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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May 30, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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Walleye, Werner....I just have to throw in my two cents even tho I am a relative newbie to the area.
No Mountain Store, no gas station.....one of the poorest decisions I've seen in my 7 seasons up here. I wish I had been around when these plans were presented to the public. A few of us are trying to guess the real reasons for getting rid of something the public actually needed and used up here.
Campers and climbers forget gear and try to go without....
The thousands of tourists (many of them international and non English reading) that miss the tiny sign at the bottom of the pass which says no gas until Crane Flat and run out of gas. Crazy/stupid. imho.
Headed to TPR today. Can't Wait!!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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Yes, indeed, Wayno. That is HE HIMSELF depicted in a moment of high drama on the lead. Marc Hill belaying and Dave Caunt looking on in shock and disbelief:
Guidebooks are definitely not the way to score big bucks. To send 1 copy to Amazon, USPO Priority Mail, now costs $6.95 (the rate was hiked another buck this year). Amazon drives a hard bargain and pays me $8.95 per book. So my ROI (return on investment) is around $2 greasy bucks per volume. So far, I've sold 6 copies in a week, which means I made $12 bucks profit. Definitely not a good way to retire in Maui.
I think of the whole project as a kind of silent protest against the closure of the mountain shop and the guide service in T. Meadows. Give people an alternative place to hang out and shoot the bull outside YNP.
Lots of nice views along the old mining road anyway. Bet the pebble pullers find some nice boulders out there too. Got to be some great problems if you go snooping around.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
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Mike: I can remember that Dave Caunt offered to add a bolt to "Sweet Suspicion", but Yerian wouldn't listen to a word of it. I think he even went back years later and led it again to emphasize his point.
I actually thought Al Dude should have bolted up that 5.10d TR on Dinosaur Crag as a sport route. But because there was a bolted 5.11b friction route just to the left, Al thought it should remain a TR and a TR it remains to this day. Besides there are a bunch of cracks on Dinosaur Crag that can be led with trad gear. The 2 TRs are a bunch of fun though.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 30, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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Actually Bruce my toproping of that route precluded me from bolting or leading it according to the prevailing ethic of the day. Someone else on sight leading this tr would be fine by me!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 09:53pm PT
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You mean on-sight ground-up hand-drilled (OSGUHD), if I get your drift, Dude?
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 30, 2016 - 10:34pm PT
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Pretty much Bruce....although I believe power drills are legal in the National Forest!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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Sure are, Al. You betcha!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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May 31, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Great to see your book is out. I will order a copy today.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 11:05am PT
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You're featured prominently in there, friend Urmas. One TR, two lead shots. So you better get a copy for the historical record!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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Bump for shameless self-promotion.
Demonology (5.10b dihedral):
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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Another lead shot of a route on the Spillway Crag:
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Another pic to wet you appetite for high-altitude slab foonting:
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Is it all clear of snow at this point?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2016 - 12:12am PT
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Don't know but would bet not entirely clear yet. TPR is opening a week late (tomorrow) due to wet spring and deep snow. Dinosaur Crag is probably dry though. Demonology Cliff Band seems to be dry all the time.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
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Urmas Franosch leads the FA of "Pearly Queen" (5.11c thin) on the upper right-hand side of the Dinosaur Crag.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Jul 21, 2016 - 11:37am PT
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Hey Lynne, Bruce or anyone - is the guidebook at TPR or in Mammoth?
thx.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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I just delivered 10 copies last week to Lynne up at Tioga Pass Resort, so there should be some still up there unless they sold out already. I'll bring some more when I go up to TM next week; that is, when I get my car back from the body shop in San Carlos. Hit a deer on the way up last time and took out my windshield and dented the bumper and smashed the hood. Don't worry I've got comprehensive!
The Ellery Guide is available on Amazon, Planet Granite and soon at REI stores (I've got to go to UPS today with a big order from REI).
Maybe Lynne will chime in and say if there are any copies left at TPR?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Possibly heading up there soon. i would assume you make a bit more if I buy it at TPR, plus any you don't make goes to another Tacopian?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 12:48am PT
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Same ROI (return on investment) for me no matter where you by it. Except Amazon where they have a 55% author's discount. Cheap aren't they? REI, Planet Granite and TPR all pay me the same wholesale price.
I just don't think you can make much money on a guidebook unless you own your own press to cut out printers' costs. I do like the idea of buying the book at TPR then going down the road a half-mile and climbing the routes. Then come back for pie a la mode with coffee. Maybe TPR will start handling chalk blocks to make up for the TM Mountain Store closing? Hint! Hint!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Is there dispersed camping allowed on Power Plant road? Looking at G-maps it looks like there are numerous opportunities.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Miss Ter E said "Top Rope Cover shot ?" from the mouth of a RAP bolter lolol!!! I like the cover shot Bruce!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Hi Bruce,
cool looking book. We did a few routes on the ridges above that area that were quite good. I've posted them on Supertopo before (I think?)
Anyways, here they are and feel free to add them to your book if you want. The photo is poor quality, but the 3 left most routes are good. The right one, not as good..
Here is another shot looking up canyon. The ridge on the left is over a mile long and ends up right next to Third Pillar of Dana. The rock is good and amazingly not loose on all three of these routes. A short rope, a set of stoppers and some good approach shoes is all that is necessary for these routes.
 Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 10:05am PT
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Yeah! Thanks a million for the info Eric! I've been snooping around looking at those aretes for a long, long time. Heard about a hair-raising ascent of one of them from blonde Linda at PG Belmont. I'll be sure to include them in the next edition of the Ellery guide, which I've already been updating. Here's a pic of one of your aretes I took years ago from around the Chicken foot cracks:
This looks like your 5.7 arete?
Heard from Falk that Steve Schneider soloed those aretes years ago. But it sounds like you've made them your own. Bet they would be popular if people knew they were there.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 10:14am PT
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By the way, here's a big boulder I "stumbled on" while taking telephotos of "Speed of Life":
I know that Don Reid, Grant Hiskes and Scott Cole worked on it in the late 70s. Chris Falkenstein says there's been some recent activity on it too. The back side sure look V10 (i.e. too hard for me). But that little crack up the center looks doable as does the white arete.
Any current info? From what I see there's a lot of bouldering potential up in Ellery Bowl.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Hey Bruce,
the routes are all good solos (except the right one) and thats how we did them. All were climbed back in the early 2000 ish era. I have no doubt they could have been climbed before, and would be kind of surprised if they hadn't. But here's who I climbed them with. Each one was a great climb with great friends and memories. The climbing is like menu bouldering the whole way, pick a problem, step up and do it, pick another, repeat...
From left to right:
-5.6 ridge, E.G. & Ian Fergenson
-5.6 ridge, E.G., Ian Fergenson, Linda Jarit & Rob Sharpe
-5.7 ridge, Walter Hawkins(RIP) & E.G.
-5.6 buttress, E.G. & Ed Hartouni
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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So, the far right 5.6 arete probably needs a rope? Linda described hanging in space until you pulled her up by the arm. Sort of like a scene out of a Marvel comic book. Oh well, you all lived to tell about it!
I like that, "menu bouldering". Solve a boulder problem, wander on, solve another problem and so on to the top.
Dunno when Shipoopi did his solos. Just heard about it from Falk second-hand.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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It was the second arete/ridge from the left that we did with Linda, and no, you don't need a rope if your comfortable soloing 5.6. If you feel fine on the West Ridge of Conness or Cathedral Peak, you'll be fine on this ridge.It's a notch down from both those.
Linda was just an inch short on courage that day, and two inches short on reach. An outstretched arm was all that was needed to bypass the issue. (There might have been some hanging in space now that I think about it). There were other options in the vicinity, but that was the way we had chosen.
Buy the way, there are a lot of Linda dangling in space stories, and there all true. Somehow she seems to find herself in that situation more often than most. No doubt from the missions she has unwittingly signed up for and the questionable nature of the people she has signed up with. Always a good time with lots of laughs, and happy to share a rope with her any time.
Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Each one was a great climb with great friends and memories.
yes, that day was special, and I even lived! which was a real bonus...
but it is a good day when you walk up to something and just climb it, it doesn't matter if it had been climbed before.
being a part of all of Gabel's projects was an extraordinary period in my climbing life that I will always remember
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2016 - 01:18am PT
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I can see how those aretes might become popular destinations if they were better known since they're so accessible from the Tioga Road. Walking back around down Ellery Bowl from the Dana Plateau sounds like a neat way to end the day too. I'll take some pics of those aretes soon with my big, heavy Nikon D7100 in preparation for drawing the topos. Chance to take out the tripod and remote and look like a frick'n touron on the side of the road.
Those aretes do look adventuresome.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2016 - 01:44am PT
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Is there dispersed camping allowed on Power Plant road? Looking at G-maps it looks like there are numerous opportunities.
Grumpy: I think it says you're only allowed to stay in the NFS campgrounds: Aspen, Morain, Big Bend etc. etc. But two weeks ago I saw people brazenly camping along Pool Power Plant road. No one seemed to be bothering them. I'd say be cautious and low-key and get up and leave early. There are a number of 'secret' spots too, but again caution is advised. Scouting along the Lee Vining Creek during daylight would be a good strategy if you wanted to find places to keep your vehicle out of sight from the Pool Power Plant Road at night.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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When we were climbing on the Ellery Buttress, I almost took Ed out on the rightmost climb when a block I was standing on cut loose. Thankfully, he's pretty quick for an old guy...
Bruce, you mentioned up thread that you may include the Sphinx on some future version of your guide.
So...here is another adventure Ed joined me on just across the way on The Sphinx. It's been posted before and there may be a trip report on it somewhere. It was a pretty incredible and fun day that holds fond memories for me.
Here is a rough topo The rock is really good for the most part, with lots of hand cracks.
There are a few established 5.9 & 5.10 routes to the left too. The whole ridge from the Warren Campsite is 5.7
Eric Gabel
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Looks like a hell of a traverse approach to the ridge east of Powerhouse bowl/chutes.
gumby- I've camped at a nice pullout on the right next to a large shaded rock outcrop a bit before the end of powerplant rd in the winter.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Splitclimber,
it's probably 45 minutes to get to the far ridge. The first 1/3 is on an old road. Not much elevation gain.
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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Bruce, you mentioned up thread that you may include the Sphinx on some future version of your guide.
Eric, I already have taken pics, drawn a new topo, and placed the Sphinx in the upgraded manuscript of the Ellery guide. I also took the liberty of placing the Sphinx and your and Ed's route on Mountain Project. Kind of like pre-writing the entry for my guidebook if you don't mind!
Everybody who's ever driven down the Tioga Road wonders about the Sphinx and now there's some solid info available. But do you have topos for the other routes on the Sphinx? 4 or 5? Lots of mysteries in Lee Vining Canyon!
Falk says its other locals-only name is "Mt Crumblepies".
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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I thought it was called Cerro Gnarly*
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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No,I don't mind you putting it on Mountain Project Bruce.
I'll tell you what I know, and what I think I know about the Sphinx routes.
-the East Ridge was done on August 19th 1938 by W.G. Yongue (Gerald Yongue)
unsure weather he did the upper ridge only, or the whole ridge.
-There is a relatively easy route up the canyon on the back side, which you can gain the saddle via a short section of 5th class. Then one more short boulder problem from the saddle to the upper 3rd class part of the ridge and to the summit.
-The entire East ridge was done as early as 1959. There is a high point halfway out that had an old 1959 peanut butter jar register. Unfortunately the contents were ruined. So no information on who.
-The summit register has a record of the whole East Ridge being done again in 1977 by Rod Kennec, Jerry Rupert, & James Clay Pearson.
-It is possible to continue on past the summit down to the saddle, and on up the orange rock ridge to the West - Northwest. My friend Ian Fegenson has bone this to the high point of that ridge.
-The obvious Orange Chimney has been done on the left side of the cliff.
-Just right of it is the "South Face Route" 5.10a FA Wayne Wallace & Fletcher Wilson 1984
-"Cerro K'narle' " 5.9 was also done in the same area, and may be the same route, or share parts of it FA Todd Worsfold & Paul Teare on June 26th 1987
-"Bighorn" 5.10 was done on the East Face, via "cracks and corners, finishing w/ crack splitting upper head wall" FA Paul Linaweaver & Mike Strassman. They had climbed the South face route via a last pitch variation in October 1987, so there FA of "Bighorn" was probably sometime just after that?
-There is a single pitch line with a few bolts and pro just to the left of "The Great Googley Boogley". It goes to a two bolt anchor.
-"The Great Googley Boogley" FA Eric Gabel & Ed Hartouni on July 9th 2011
Here is a guess at where some of the routes go??? (Probably a bad guess on a few of them.)
1. Orange Chimney
2. South Face ?
3. Cerro K'narle' ?
4. Bighorn w/ possible finish options?
5. Short bolt and pro route
6. Great Googley Boogley
7. East Ridge
Hopefully that helps a little???
Eric Gabel
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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I'm sorry to read about Walt's passing. I
liked him a lot and always enjoyed his company.
I didn't know he was into high country ridges like
that. Of that distance and all, etc..
Good memories, Walt! Always admired your
super adventurous spirit!!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Hey Footloose,
Walt was one of my very best friends for over twenty years, and I miss him a lot. But he lived a wild life and wouldn't have wanted it any other way.
He didn't necessarily go for big ridge routes, but for some reason, I could talk him into just about any adventure, and we always had a great time. We put up many routes together and had a lot of back country adventures.
Here are a few pictures of that day.
Here's a shot of the last time I went climbing with him.
RIP Walt
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2016 - 11:58pm PT
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Sorry to hear about Walt. Sounds like he was an adventuresome soul.
But thanks a million for all that detailed information about the routes on The Sphinx. Had no idea there were so many! Wonder who put up that one-pitch bolted route leading up to anchors?
Bet there are a thousand stories about that crag. So obvious, but shrouded in mystery.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2016 - 12:11am PT
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-The obvious Orange Chimney has been done on the left side of the cliff.
Rating?
Boy, that Sphinx formation has more routes than I imagined.
Looks to me as if there's another route to be done to the right of "The Great Googley Boogley" up some smooth slabs. Or is that whole area too low angle?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Bruce,
I believe the Orange route was mentioned in one of the notes in the summit register, maybe Ed has some more photos of the pages in it that could help? Some how 5.9 comes to mind???
Keep in mind that the lines I drew are just guesses, Bighorn is probably close, as that is an obvious line.
The short sport/trad route is right where I drew it.
Were the South face goes, I'm not exactly sure, but the area is correct. Possibly Sibylle Hechtel could chime in, as she posts here, and has done the route. Several people appear to have done it over the years.
Cerro K'narle' could be any one of those natural recesses, or the same as the South Face???
The recesses just right of Great Googley Boogley had a stopper in it about two pitches up. It looked like a bail piece, but who knows.
The only way to know for sure is to climb them, or find the people who put them up, and some of them are not around anymore.
I'll post up some more routes we did in the area when I get a chance. I have to get back to working on my own guide book project right now.
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
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Yeah, Eric, thanks for all your help. Just goes to prove that documenting the whole Lee Vining Canyon area would be a huge project fraught with pitfalls and complications.
All I can do is put up a tentative Sphinx topo based on your pic-drawing and wait for information and corrections to flow in. Another way is of course what you suggest: Doing every route on the Sphinx myself! At least any information I put on MP will be plastic and available for instant correction. The electronic medium does have that advantage over ink and print.
Have to take a look at those photos of the Sphinx guidebook entries in Ed Hartouni's original string on "Great Googley Boogley" here on ST. Lonnie Kauk seems quite enthused about those Ellery Bowl aretes of yours. Maybe he's provide some more information about them too. You could do one of those aretes up to Dana Plateau and then climb the Third Pillar of Dana too, couldn't you? Sounds like an excellent all-day adventure!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Yes, you can solo the farthest left ridge and pop out right next to The Third Pillar of Dana. Essentially, you end up coming up the ridge you usually use to go down to the start of that route.
I checked out your Mountain Project post on the Sphinx. Very cool.
But I feel a bit uncomfortable with the overlay being on there without CLEARLY stating that those are just approximate locations and guesses of where they are. Maybe question marks after there names too. We know the routes exist but not there exact location. Also my last name is spelled Gabel.
I think working on a Lee Vining Canyon guide is a great idea and a natural extension to the book you have. You could just add to it as more information comes in.
Here's another tidbit. Above and left of Speed of Life is a one pitch splitter 1 1/2" crack. I would see it everytime I came down the Ellery Bowl. I was going to go give it a go when I happened to mention it to Kevin Andrews. He said he already did it earlier that same season and it was awesome. 5.10 I think? I was just a little late on that one.
Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I think those 10 pages are all there are in the summit register, at least those are the complete set I shot that day...
...Bruce, if you want a higher resolution image of that face of The Sphinx I can send you one... maybe a way to ask the FA parties (those still around) just where they might have gone.
On the other hand, just posting a slightly more enhanced written description, a la the Roper Guide, would be a service to adventurers...
Vintage Gabel, love you man, really...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2016 - 12:15am PT
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If you look on MP, Ed, you'll see that I do have a very high resolution jpeg of the face of the Sphinx taken with my trusty Nikon D7100. A DSLR may be like a boat-anchor, but all that processing power does get the job done.
Eric: Any guidebook is an approximation of the real truth, the vrai verite! I checked those written entries in the "Great Googley Boogley" string. What else do you have to go on? Maybe I'll say in the Sphinx main entry that the information given is based on conjecture and surmise? There a comment section where people could chime in with corrections and updates. If they go up to climb any route on a piece of rock that looks like the Sphinx, they better be adventurist to begin with.
Thanks for the information on that splitter 5.10 crack above "Speed of Life". Have to check that out next time I wander around in that rubble pile.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Hey Eric. Lonnie Kauk just soloed your 5.7 arete on Ellery Peak and made a video of it! Wow. It really looks spectacular and pretty safe. Like a smaller version of the West Ridge of Conness. What amazing views of Lee Vining Canyon and the Tioga Road. Bet people are going to get on it all the time now. Unfortunately, the video isn't on YouTube but it is on Lonnie's FB site. That's a pretty good quality endorsement, huh?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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Lonnie Kauk took this pic looking back down the 5.7 Ellery Arete after soloing it a couple days ago:
That sure looks like a new Sierra classic! Thanks for your route, Eric Gabel! Just look at the sweeping view of Tioga Road and Mono Lake.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Hey Bruce,
Glad to see someone getting on that, and glad to hear Lonnie liked it. I checked out a little peace of video he posted on Instagram. It is a very good line. We called that one the "Backbone" 5.7, for the long feature about half way up that felt like you were walking on a dinosaurs back. Hopefully he'll check out the others to the left too. They are also worth the effort.
Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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We also put up some good routes on some of those cliffs that are in the background on Lonnie's summit photo.
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2016 - 12:26am PT
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We also put up some good routes on some of those cliffs that are in the background on Lonnie's summit photo.
I see that Lonnie has published another video of him climbing the arete on Instagram. Check it out. Pretty dramatic.
I don't think he just liked the route. It sounds like he's wildly enthused about it. That's a pretty good product endorsement!
You mean those cliffs down in Lee Vining Canyon above the Tioga Road? You really have been digging around there, Eric. Took some telephotos of those cliffs at sunset once and started to see things popping out. Bit of an approach, no?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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had a fun time there last weekend. something easy without a name on the dinosaur crag
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
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Looks like someone's been up to the Dinosaur Crag and done "Acid House" (5.10a)? Nice polished granite with better protection than you'd expect from looking at it. You're probably the first people who have climbed there since we mobbed that place back in August-September 1990. Over-popularity certainly won't wreck that crag.
Or is that a new route a little to the right of "Acid House"? Or did you just start down low instead of off the pedestal? In any case, that obscure destination is finally getting some traffic.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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to the right of acid house. maybe 5.7 with an easy roof and well protected crack, til almost to the top anyway
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2016 - 12:07am PT
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Will have to add it to the Dinosaur Crag topo.
There are a couple of other unclimbed moderate cracks on both sides of the Lizard Princess on the right side of the crag waiting for the tread of climbing shoes.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 10, 2016 - 07:51am PT
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Here is another climb Ed Hartouni and I did in Warren Canyon. If you've ever been driving up the pass and wondered what those towers were high on the ridge, your not alone. One day I had to find out, and once again, Ed had given me a free pass, saying "he was up for anything".
So up we went. It's a long hike with a great summit reward.Our route went up just left of the main chimney system, and followed the arete on the right to the summit. The main chimney up the center was done by Rick Cashner and Claude Fiddler in 1987. Ascended again by Rick Cashner and Roy McLenahan in 1988
Here's a shot of Ed coming up the route.
There is a very old summit register up there from 1930. The older entry's are faded away. But they were in 1930 and 1958 I believe. Then Rick, Claude, and Roy's in '87 and '88. Unfortunately we forgot the pencil in the pack at the base of the climb, so we did not sign in.
Here's Ed on the summit
You can just see the Ellery Ridge in the background, and where it tops out next to Third Pillar Of Dana, just under Mt. Dana in the photo.
There are two other towers up there that have seen ascents. We could see the summit carns from our summit. No idea who or when, but that's another adventure to be had.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Let's hope you picked a very hot day for that approach up Warren Canyon, Eric. I've looked up too (who hasn't?) but was discouraged by the hike. But still, another entry for a projected Lee Vining Canyon guidebook to be sure! That whole canyon is like a graveyard of obscurities. Me and Marc Hill and Dave Yerian did a two-pitch 5.10 crack on the cliffs above the Power Station up at the end of Pool Power Plant Road c. 1988, but just can't remember where it was exactly. Lots of red brittle metamorphic rock.
Going to take a hike up Warren Canyon in a few days to summit Mt Warren, so will have to check out your and Ed's 'masterpiece'.
The ridge on the left is over a mile long and ends up right next to Third Pillar of Dana.
I seem to recall that the far-east ridge-arete that ends near Third Pillar was done pre-1975 by the same team that did the Pillar. Saw a topo long ago before my dementia began to get the upper hand. Think Phil Bircheff was involved and it was rated 5.6. Wonder what ever happened to Vern Clevenger's antique note book full of hand-drawn topos of early Tuolumne climbs? Think it contained some of Tom Geraty's (sp?) topos including the original of the dike route. That would be a world-class precious document today.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Was wondering about the Unnamed Roof to Dihedral (5.6) on the Spillway Crag at Ellery Lake Mining Road?
Heard a rumor in the Lembert Dome Parking Lot one evening that it was done by Norman Boles sometime in the 1980s. Have actually seen people on it several times, but don't have clue to its history. "Just for the sake of obsessive completeness"!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 10, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
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Here is a some pictures of the other towers.
The tower on the right had a summit cairn.
This tower is just right of the other two, and also had a summit cairn.
Count on about a two and a half hour approach for all these... You've got to earn it.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
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First, take a 30-mile bike ride. Then, run 8-miles of trail. Finally, begin the 2.5 hour approach to the Warren Canyon granite towers. When you get back to camp, make sure you do your core work-out. You'll be beginning to get ready for the high moutains.
Something tells me those Towers aren't going to be too popular with the masses. But they certainly belong in a "complete" Lee Vining Canyon guide.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 10, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
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It was done in 1930 ! I have no idea what route was taken then, but there is no easy way up. Nothing easier than 5.6. The rock is of very good quality too. I think climbers are just getting soft these days?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 12:31am PT
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I think climbers are just getting soft these days?
I think BITD climbing was 'summit oriented'. I bet everyone of those little pinnacles was summited 40 years ago by peak baggers. Interesting though that no route to the top was easier than 5.6. Norman Clyde did some pretty hairy stuff back then. People called it 4th class but that could include a wide range of difficulties.
Isn't there a link somewhere on ST on your Warren Canyon adventure? Those granite pinnacles are much more impressive close up than they look from way down in Lee Vining Canyon.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Aug 11, 2016 - 01:39pm PT
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Hi Mr. Morris, great job on the new book, and thanks a ton on all your help you have given to me to make guide books, cheers happy climbing Mike A.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2016 - 01:06am PT
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You better come down here and do some route setting. All the pretty girls have quit since you evacuated to Oakhurst!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2016 - 01:10am PT
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Count on about a two and a half hour approach for all these... You've got to earn it.
Depends on how much bushwhacking you have to do to get up there. Are there trails or is it a jungle of East Side desert brush?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 12, 2016 - 08:29am PT
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Hey Bruce,
No real bush whacking to speak of on the approach. There are some low lying shrubs on the first ten or fifteen minutes leaving the road, but nothing too bad. Just lots of talus blocks to hop over for the most part.
The climbing is good.
There are some nice cracks on it too.
Here's a shot of Ed coming up the first pitch.
The view isn't bad either. You can see the Ellery Ridges, Third Pillar and Mt. Dana.
Looking back up at the Towers. You can see the easy brush at the start, the hike your in for, and the price of admission.
A grand adventure if anybody is looking for a mini mountaineering experience with an excellent summit, or just to get off the beaten path and see some sierra views.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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IOWs: After 15-minutes or so of brush, you're hiking up a couple thousand feet of scree. Those cracks on the Warren Tower look inviting. "Commuting" up there to work on new lines looks like a real test of will and determination.
Trolling around the internet I found a real good wide-angle pic of the Ellery Ridges:
Those views from Warren Tower look spectacular. Almost worth the price of admission.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Aug 12, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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Thanks for putting in the work and sharing! Another fun place to check out
Bump
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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The first Ellery guide was small and manageable, but the longer this string gets the more routes are uncovered in Lee Vining Canyon, some of them with really long approaches.
Well, before it's over, sounds like I'm gonna have to do some more hoofing around up there.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 13, 2016 - 11:13am PT
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Hey Bruce,
Just to make your guide book project a little bigger, here is a cliff with a shorter approach and good climbing on it.
The rock is quite good on it too.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2016 - 12:30pm PT
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Where's that cliff, way up somewhere on the north slope of Lee Vining Canyon I bet? Who, what, when, where and how? That whole north slope of the Canyon is a maze of ridges and aretes. You look up there from Aspen NFS Campground and you can see cliff band after cliff band. In the next edition I know I have to include Golden Rock (Speed of Life etc.), the Sphinx, and those three south flank aretes-ridges. That's not more than 10 added pages. But I've cut costs so much to keep the MSRP under a $20 that almost any expansion beyond 5 pages will mean I'll have to raise the cost-per-volume to cost-justify the printing. Of course, then there's Tioga Cliff, the Inspiron Wall, the Tioga Road Cliff and those new things Charlie Barrett's done down lower like that 5.13c crack. Then, what about the bouldering along Pool Power Plant Road and the ice climbs? If you're talking about a complete guidebook to Lee Vining Canyon, I bet it comes out to a 100+ page book. I think I'll keep adding on a little bit more with each new edition/printing and see how far I get with a minimalist approach. Before it's all over, I bet I'm going to be doing some trudging up long talus gullies to verify obscurities!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 13, 2016 - 05:29pm PT
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Bruce,
I think expanding the guide is a natural progression to what you've started, and if the costs go up, so be it. I would include all of the cliffs you've mentioned. Just make sure you do as thorough and accurate of job as possible.
The Pyramid is about a 40 minute approach, and is located right above where they park the big bull dozer/grader on Hwy 120. I think it's the same, or right next to the parking area for Warren Tower.
I'll draw something up and post it when I get a chance.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
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You mean the Warren Tower is up Warren Canyon from the turnout at the 9000ft level marker where everybody crashes at night? Then it faces east? Bet if I climb Mt Warren next week I'll spot it.
This string is getting to be a regular catalog of East Side obscurities.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2016 - 09:56am PT
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Here is an overview map drawn off of Google Earth to help clarify things.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
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Many thanks again, Eric. That clears it up quite a bit, especially those lines on the map for the south slope ridge-aretes leading up to the Dana Plateau. The next edition of the guide needs a map overview like that.
Yup, those Warren Towers are the same ones I thought they'd be - way up on the ridge line. But your Pyramid looks quite a bit closer. The first time I noticed how good the rock is on that side of the canyon is when Dave Caunt and I did "Girls On Fire" back in 1990 - another super good easily accessible route that has languished in obscurity for want of documentation. OMG, those horrible climbers clambering all over nature and ruining it. Better if they stayed back home and watched the game on a big screen. Better for the environment.
What I need is a good graphics line drawing program to draw topographics and maps over .jpegs, .tiffs, .gifs and/or whatever. My old WordPerfect graphics program was great for that, but badly outdated now. Something real simple but versatile and flexible. Easy to integrate text on the overlay too. Have been looking around and experimenting of course but so far haven't found something as versatile and flexible as the old WordPerfect graphics for MS Windows. I guess if I really wanted to spend $5 bills for Adobe Illustrator, but there has to be some freeware that does what I want.
What you have labeled "Warren Pond" actually seems to be "Lake Gardinsky" (unless 'Warren Pond' is a locals-only name). Those Warren Towers appear to be on the south slope of Lee Vining Peak.
Again, thanks a lot for your help. That map really puts things into perspective. Ought to be a two-page map like that at the start of the guide with a lot of explanatory text naming formations, showing approach and descent paths, plus naming the NFS campgrounds. But there I'm thinking aloud again . . .
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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So the Warren Pond name is what appears on the graphics for Google Maps. As far as Warren Towers and The Pyramid go, those are just the names I used or gave them. They may not be correct or appropriate? That's just what I've called them.
Yes, The Pyramid is pretty close to the road, and the rock is of good quality. There is the occasional loose block, but usually obviously so.
I'll be needing a new graphics program too, in the near future. Let me know if you find anything good.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
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Yeah, all names/signs are arbitrary and based on usage; in this case, the names the FA party assigned the towers. Wonder if the Warren Pond vs. Gardinsky Lake has a political background? Think Gardinsky was the original founder of Tioga Pass Resort back in 1914. Who was old man Warren? Local political name conflict.
Do you have the ST links to the original strings on the 5.6/5.6/5.7/5.6 arete-ridges up the south flank of Lee Vining Canyon? Are there some pictures?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 14, 2016 - 07:32pm PT
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Bruce,
I don't think there were any trip reports on the Ellery Ridges, unless Ed wrote up one on the ridge he and I did? I've done hundreds of new routes in Yosemite, but unfortunately never got around to doing any trip reports. Ed has always been the one who has taken the time, which I thank him for. He's a wonderful writer and always seems to be able to capture the moment. My adventures with him have always been great. The partner you chose makes a lot of difference in how fun the climbing day is...
Here is a better overlay of the Ellery Ridges
Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 06:43pm PT
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"What I need is a good graphics line drawing program to draw topographics and maps over .jpegs, .tiffs, .gifs and/or whatever. My old WordPerfect graphics program was great for that, but badly outdated now. Something real simple but versatile and flexible. Easy to integrate text on the overlay too."
I think I've got ablegabel covered... we just have to sit down together soon...
look here for various applications:
http://freegeographytools.com
and get yourself an account here:
http://www.geocomm.com
(it's free) to download the various STDS files for the quads you're looking at... in your case the Mount Dana quad (for Lee Vining Canyon).
I use an old version of SimpleDEMViewer on my Mac OS X 10.9.5 from which you can play around and save stuff to .jpg, etc...
here's The Sphinx viewed from across the canyon the Sun is in the SW at 20ş
from the USGS data downloaded from the geocomm site linked above.
Here's a contour plot with 20m elevation and an index every 100m
and a screen shot with the working page, and the lake defined (in blue)
and with the slopes shaded, 0ş slope is white, above 45ş is nearly black, with the Sun as above for shading.
You can add "user data" to the images, combine quads at boundaries, use more imaginative colors, etc...
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Bruce,
Here is an overlay of the routes on The Pyramid.
The routes from left to right are:
-Federal Holiday 5.8+, FA Eric Gabel & Brent Botta
-Trad Dad's 5.9R, FA Walter Hawkins & Eric Gabel
-Water Boy 5.7, FA Eric Gabel & Ian Fergenson
-Tahoe Connection 5.9, FA Eric Gabel & Annie Ballard
All routes were put up in the early 2000's. We had a no bolts or pins ethnic that I've incorporated on all First Accents in the Tuolumne area. This cliff in particular has abundant natural pro and it would be nice for it to remain bolt free, (but I know that is not likely).
The approach is about 40 minutes to the base. Park at the pullout on Hwy 120, where they usually park the bulldozer. Hike up the hill a few minutes and then start cutting over left, with some bushwhacking, and gain a talus field that heads up to the base.
Federal Holiday is a good, fun, four pitch route that follows the aręte on the left of the formation.
Trad Dad is a great route, but run out on the first pitch right before the crux. A lowball or some RP's and maybe the smallest Aliens (black or blue) might make this safer. It goes through some cool head walls, a roof, and some corners up higher. This is my favorite route on the formation. We did this in five pitches.
Water Boy is a fun route that goes up a chimney for the first part. It has some loose blocks that should be passed carefully or trundled off. Four pitches.
Tahoe Connection goes up a nice crack through a roof and a nice face for a long first pitch. Some more nice climbing leads up to some lesser angle wandering with some bushwhacking on the next pitch. Then wanders up to the summit. We did it in four pitches.
The last pitch for all these routes is not visible in the photograph. We've done three different finishes, left, right and center. The center is the easiest at 5.7.
There is the occasional loose block on this cliff, but usually it looks loose. For the most part the rock is excellent and highly featured.
To get off the formation, simply walk back toward the right, and follow the talus back down to your pack. Be careful on the talus field as there is the occasional loose block that can role out on you.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
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Just got back from Tuolumne tonight and it was so hot and smokey I didn't even think about doing the approach to The Pyramid. Is this what global warming is all about? There was so much smoke in my tent at Ellery Lake CG that it made me sneeze just getting into it at night! But I did get some good pics of the Ellery Aretes-Ridges toward sunset one relatively clear afternoon.
If the temp ever goes back down again, that Pyramid looks like a neat destination.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2016 - 10:47pm PT
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This looks like it might be a side view of the approach to the Warren Towers?
My that was an ambitious exploration, wasn't it? Did anyone get sick? Did you bring enough food and water with additional bivy gear just in case?
It looks like the Warren Towers just might be peeking out of the approach gully up almost at the top.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
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Thanks a million, Ed. Got myself an account at the site you suggested. But it seems to charge for downloads? But you say it's free for Lee Vining Canyon. I guess some areas are free and others cost.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 19, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
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they make it intentionally obscure...
from the front page click the "Download GIS Data"
the other button is "Premium Download Accounts" but unless you pay you can't get some of the content....
then navigate to the area you want, usually by county... I believe the DEM info is free, but you can see by the color of the download button:
the "green button" is the free download, the "gold button" is the premium (pay for) button... I use the info from the "green button" download.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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Gold = Gentrification
Green = New Deal
Thanks for the navigation aids.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 19, 2016 - 04:29pm PT
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Bruce,
What I need is a good graphics line drawing program to draw topographics and maps over .jpegs, .tiffs, .gifs and/or whatever. My old WordPerfect graphics program was great for that, but badly outdated now. Something real simple but versatile and flexible. Easy to integrate text on the overlay too. Have been looking around and experimenting of course but so far haven't found something as versatile and flexible as the old WordPerfect graphics for MS Windows. I guess if I really wanted to spend $5 bills for Adobe Illustrator, but there has to be some freeware that does what I want. I use GIMP, which is free/open source and works pretty well.
You start with your own photo, then put "layers" over it with your lines and text. You can then edit each layer independently without destroying the photo underneath.
There are lots of videos on youtube which explain how to do basic stuff. I use it on Windows, but it also runs on Mac if that helps.
Here's an example of something I made with it:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIMP
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 12:27am PT
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My iMac with OS X El Capitan version 10.11.6 doesn't want to download GIMP (i.e. blocks the download, even when I attempt to override). What's going on? Apple doesn't want me to use freeware?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 20, 2016 - 09:53am PT
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can you download it using Fink? (e.g. through Fink Commander).
I've been installing software recently, though with my antiquated Mavericks OS (hopefully to depart once I have finished up this little project...).
Frequently you have to "right click" on the install icon and open it explicitly (as a security feature).
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Will try that. Wouldn't even download to my iMac when I disabled the security as per instructed. Maybe a right click will solve the problem (or $5 Benjamins for Adobe Illustrator!)
I feel very, very sorry for you Ed having to spend your days in cyber-hell downloading and installing software. Seems like that kind of stuff is specifically designed to frustrate and torture the mind.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 20, 2016 - 12:19pm PT
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not too bad... after about 45 years of dealing with software it seems like breathing itself... sometimes labored, other time effortless...
always necessary.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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Well, after three failed attempts, GIMP caused my iMac to crash catastrophically. Installed 8GB of memory and now it works again. No problem, I was going to install the memory already. Figured it's really all the Nikon NEF RAW files I've saved to my desktop and never bothered to delete. Three failed installs often burn up enough memory to cause a crash too.
I want to go back to the Meadows. This computer stuff sucks. The graphics person at Express Printing & Graphics in Sunnyvale told me they subscribe to the Adobe InDesign suite for so much a month and then get to use 40 or so Adobe apps up in the Cloud. Subscribe to it for 3 months and then bang out a book with a whole bunch of Adobe products designed to work together seamlessly. Wonder if that's what Charlie Barrett does when he's putting together those bouldering guides while working as a cook at the T. Meadows grill? No need of a fixed abode or a stand-alone PC/Mac.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 11:07pm PT
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Here's a preliminary topo of the Far East Ellery Arete with the 5.6 line marked:
Correct away EG! Just guessing about the start of the line. That 24.2 MP sensor sure brings out a lot of detail.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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Hi Bruce,
That looks pretty good. I'd adjust the start a little as shown below, but I think once your out there, most people will find there way. We always tried to stay on the high point of the ridge on all those climbs, and that's the only route finding skill needed.
Also, I think you need more contrast in color, where you put the grade. The yellow 5.6 is a little hard to see. This is something Ed was pointing out on my overlays when we were working on our book project the other day.
Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 10:18am PT
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Bruce,
here is another route you may not know about, and would be a good one to put in your book, since it's in the scope of the area you are covering. It tops out on the 5.6 ridge that you overlaid, right near the high point in your photo.
This was posted on Supertopo "Possible new route on Dana Plateau" July 28 2010 by "The Alpine". His route is 8 pitches and 5.10+.
Here is another photo of the ridge looking toward Third Pillar, taken toward the end of it by "Footloose". He had walked out on it from the Dana Plateau to check out some rock.
These is a shot taken by QITNL looking back at the ridge from The Dana Plateau.
There's a lot of good rock up there to be explored.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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Yah, I know about the problem with the yellow only too well. The Mountain Project software only gives you a few color selections, none of them too good. However, it does come out when printed on good paper. I'll make a note - as you suggest - about staying on the ridge. Seems pretty obvious.
I've heard about that 5.6 route to the right of Third Pillar before. May have even seen an early topo around TM Rescue Site. Believe there is a rumor that it was done by the Third Pillar FA team sometime back in the mid-70s. Bet Don Reid knows a lot about the history of that area since he was up there exploring the Chicken Foot cracks with Grant Hiskes and Scott Cole c. 1977.
Amazing - sat right next to Grant a couple of days ago for breakfast at Tioga Pass Resort. Should have asked him. "Those who know don't say. Those who say don't know". But a lot of people have been stomping around that area over the years searching for FAs.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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Also, I think you need more contrast in color, where you put the grade. The yellow 5.6 is a little hard to see. This is something Ed was pointing out on my overlays when we were working on our book project the other day.
Eric Gabel
The yellow 5.6 looks fine on Facebook, but FB is probably optimized for sRGB (as is the Web). ST has a 8 MB gateway for jpeg pic files too. FB is more like 15 MBytes so more and richer colors are displayed. And now all the printers use Adobe .pdf and Adobe 1998 RGB. They want you to only use Adobe apps. The Great Print Shop conspiracy! If you want to display an 'peg image on the Web, use sRGB. If you want to print it on paper, use Adobe 1998 RGB. The great divide!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 02:50pm PT
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take a look at the "info" on what ever editor you're using (Gimp?) as you float the cursor over the path, it should tell you the RGB values for the ridge colors in the photo.
the color with maximum contrast would be those where you subtract the ridge colors from 255 for each of the three colors, you can put those in when you select the color for the line... and that line should show up really nicely!
another trick is to make the dots larger, but also reduce their opacity to something like 50-70% which will allow some of the background detail through.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:06pm PT
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You hired for the job of my graphics attendant, Ed! I need someone like you with an encyclopedic knowledge of the entire .jpeg spec to rush me to print. Luckily an entire Lee Vining Canyon guide is a long way off in the future and there's plenty of time to fix the details. Right now I'm shoveling data into the hooper. Cooking it down in pre-press comes later on.
There's got to be a hundred undocumented routes in Lee Vining Canyon. That's why the next edition of the Ellery Guide is going to only have 3 new areas: The Ellery Arete Ridges, The Sphinx, and the Golden Rock (Speed of Life etc. etc.).
Set you sights low enough and you can achieve them!
Those lines incidentally are grabbed off the Mountain Project software, which I can't really control like GIMP. That's why I'm looking for a stand-alone dedicated software program. Screen calibration is a big issue on the web too. Just ask a professional photographer about that nightmare.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 03:30pm PT
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when you have a big monkey jumping on your back, the littler monkeys don't seem so bad...
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
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I was advised to adopt an Agile software development model for this huge-mongus project: Build each rev. in small manageable, self-contained increments. Golden Rock (i.e. Speed of Life), The Sphinx, and the Ellery Arete Ridges, taken together, add less than 10 pages to the original guidebook. That's a manageable jumping off point for the whole banana.
Of course, unless there's a great catastrophe, this ST string isn't going to go away and can serve as a holding bin for information to be included later on. I've heard rumors about that 5.6 route to the right of Third Pillar for ages. Would be nice to get a more detailed topo to eventually include in Das Buch.
I adopted line drawings over photographs for the first edition simply because that was quick and easy. But I know there should be more detailed topographic drawings to clarify what the photographs don't show. That's where the real work will come in.
How about a short history of climbing in Lee Vining Canyon? That is no simple feat either.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 21, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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Cool stuff, Eric. How hard is the run-out stuff on Trad Dad? That looks like a really fun formation!
BAd
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 21, 2016 - 07:21pm PT
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Bad Climber,
the start of the first pitch on Trad Dad is the only run-out that I remember. The crux is about 50' up. there is a piece here and there down low, then a small bush that you tie off, then you head up to a short 5.9 section. This is twenty feet above the bush. You get pro for the crux kind after your half committed to the move. Walter led it and he's pretty solid. I am pretty sure you can get some small stuff in before the crux like small nuts or RP's and Black or Blue Aliens. There are some small hidden seams around the corner, right before you have to commit. He didn't bother with pro and just fired it. The rest of the route is quite good and pro's well.
The climbing is fun and well featured up there. Have fun and report back if you do it. Federal Holiday is to the left, and a good route that pro's well if Trad Dad isn't to your liking.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 12:03pm PT
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Thanks for posting the shots from (and back toward) the farthest east of the Ellery Ridges. I have added them to my entry on Mountain Project for the Far East Ellery Ridge. Three more, including the "Back Bone" Arete, to go!
Time moves like a glacier while you're amassing all the details for a guide. When you're actually at work on the manuscript, time moves like a sloth.
Just think how long the Tioga Cliff, the Inspiron Wall and the Tioga Road Cliff, plus the bouldering along the Poole Power Plant Road are going to take. And of course then there's the index and TOC.
Oh boy! We're just starting to have fun now.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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New route done by "The Alpine" near Mt. Dana on the East side of one of the Ellery Ridges. Photo credit "The Alpine"
Yes, Eric, people have been looking at that cliff to the n. of Third Pillar for ages. Think there's another 5.6 route on it (although people may be confusing it with your Far East Ellery Ridge route).
Just clearing out the historical cobwebs around Ellery Bowl is quite a chore.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 12:09am PT
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Here's a telephoto I snapped of the East Ridge of The Sphinx formation:
You can really see the high angle of the south face and the "Great Googley Boogley" (III 5.10).
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 23, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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The Great Googley Boogley is indeed steep up there, but it is predominately hand jams and big holds, so not that bad.
Your photo shows the East Ridge from the saddle, which is easily accessed from the backside. But just for clarity, the whole East Ridge can be done from the unofficial campground at the Warren Curve, and is good but a bit loose in spots. Still only 5.7 though.
Here's the link to the route on the East Face of East Ellery Ridge done by "The Alpine"
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1228924/Possible-New-Route-on-Dana-Plateau
I understand how long guide book projects take Bruce, but you probably should just bite the bullet and do that whole side of the pass, since nobody else is going too. It would be a worthy project that would be appreciated by many. Recruit a couple of young guys to climb some of the routes, do a little of the leg work for you, and snap some pictures. It's a good excuse to hang out in the meadows anyways. As long as you stick to the overlay method only, it should keep things manageable. I can draw in some belays and grades on my overlays at some point, if it helps you.
Besides, it could always be worse, you could be trying to do the Yosemite Valley Guide Book...
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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So Alpine's route is in fact "Peewee's Next Adventure"? Seems I recall the Bircheff brothers doing something up there pre-1975. Seems like a lot of people have done routes on that block north of Third Pillar that have faded into obscurity.
Think I have a pretty good overview of what needs to be documented in Lee Vining Canyon now. It's just so time consuming. My last trip up there lasted 5 days and 6 nights and all I got were 3 acceptable pics of your Ellery Ridges. Have you seen all the individual route photos of the climbs out that Mining Road that I posted on Mountain Project. Last summer I trudged all over the hillside with my D90. Had to really simplify the final output too.
Luckily I had all that stuff out the Ellery Dam Mining Roads on file since 1993. Even have topos.
Yeah, then there's the Big Ditch guidebook! That's like the 8th labor of Hercules . . .
Thanks for the added info on the East Ridge of The Sphinx. That will change my description of that route on Mountain Project. Hopefully clarify the approach a bit.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 23, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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This is from the High Sierra Guide - Peaks, Passes and Trails. By R.J. Secor.
It has "The One That Got Away" 5.10c A2 and "Lenticular Limbo" 5.10c(which also has a drawn topo in one of the Tuolumne Guides). It also mentions the 5.7 route at the bottom that you were referring to as 5.6. I'm sure it's the same route. The 5.7 is also mentioned in Roper's High Sierra Guide.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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Sounds like "The One That Got Away" (5.10c A2) is on the blank wall immediately right of The Third Pillar of Dana and crosses "Lenticular Limbo" (5.10c) somewhere at mid-point. Of course, there's "Minotaur" (5.8) on the Dog's Head formation on the west edge of Glacier Canyon too (think Reid & Falk renamed that route to honor the late Ranger Ferdinand up at the TM Entrance Station).
Sure that Bircheff 5.7 in Secor is the same as the one I'm calling a 5.6. So there must be at least two routes (probably more) on that formation to the north of the Third Pillar? The Bircheff 5.7 and Alpine's route, "Peewee's Next Adventure". Seems to be references to a couple more routes on the same formation too: 2 by Kurt Stolzenberg and 2 more by Jim and Bill Lundeen. One of the Lundeen brothers' routes seems to be "Peewee's Next Adventure" and is rated 5.10a.
You have to wonder with that obvious right facing dihedral how many of them share pitches or are actually the same route done by different parties at different times?
Quite a bit of route ambiguity to unsnarl up there on that obvious buttress that everyone must of have looked at who's ever done the Third Pillar! Think David Lunn and I did Third Pillar back in September 1975 with a rope, hexes and stoppers. Remember using Bircheff's pencil-drawn topo which indicated the "5.6" route to the north rated 5.7 by Secor.
You're right, I had better sell my house and move to the Meadows next summer to sort all this out before dementia takes its inevitable toll on the gray matter! Still can remember that Lunn and I hiked up to the descent for the Third Pill in 45 minutes. Couldn't even imagine our time when I hiked up there last September to take pics as I do each September. Retrieved a Nikon 18-200 super-zoom that I'd left the year before on a high ridge and it still worked perfectly. Not my brain though.
Here's Alpine's description of his route:
"Approach: down the 3rd pillar descent then a bit lower then across talus. Scramble up about 50 feet to a stance in a stembox below a 3 foot chockstone roof.
Pitch 1 goes over the chockstone roof and then 3rd class to the base of a wall with a fingers and hands splitter just right of a prominent right facing corner. 5.9ish
Pitches 2 and 3 can be done as 1 megaclassic pitch to a ridge. 5.9ish
Pitch 4 ride the awesome golden ridge to a ledge at a tree. 5.6ish
Pitch 5 is really just a belay move right across the top of a gully to another tree and ledge.
Pitch 6 step right off the belay to some butt cracks up these to a bush then face climb left to a belay on a small butress. 5.10ish
Pitch 7 up the corner to a small stance on the left. 5.9ish
Pitch 8 this is what you came for. Step right to more buttcracks, through a short stembox then up splitters to the top. 5.10+ish
Ride the ridge towards the 3rd pillar until it eventually joins into the 3rd pillars descent about halfway up."
Gee whiz, wouldn't be amazing to have an accurate topo showing all the routes on that little formation? Easier said than done.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 24, 2016 - 04:23pm PT
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Bruce,
I don't know about selling your house, but it sure is a good excuse to hang out in a beautiful place, and I think the Guide Book is a worthy cause.
The best way to sort out the information up there is to start fishing. Cast a line and see what fish rise? Or to be clearer, start sending out emails and make phone calls to anybody who was active out there. One lead will lead to another, and eventually to a description, overlay or topo.
It's the climbing community and everybody knows someone who knows something or can get a hold of somebody who remembers some detail.
To start with, email "The Alpine". He still posts here and his profile says he posted just last week. If he doesn't respond(sometimes friend requests don't go through on Supertopo) just respond to the last page he posted to and see if he'll draw up a topo. Anyways, just a suggestion...
I usually get 10 to 30 topos a month doing just that for my book project. It does help to be relentless though.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2016 - 12:42am PT
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That whole Third Pillar area is obviously very much in need of an accurate and complete set of topos. If any thing, it'll disperse the hordes. Wonder if there's anything been done to the left of the Third Pillar?
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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Pajamarama 5.10a/b must join the regular 3rd Pillar route for its upper pitches?
See where someone does wonder about possible routes to the right of the 3rd Pillar too. Mist & Fog. That whole bowl is so immense there just have to be more lines, done and undone up there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 25, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
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Yes, I think that Pajamarama joins the right variations of the regular route.
I've heard that guides have a rap route left of the regular route on Third Pillar. Not sure if there are climbs on that side.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Clint, thinks that when David Lunn and I did the 3rd Pillar in September 1975 we did a variation to the left of the last pitch that was 5.10 solid or thereabout. Seems like there was another line that could have been taken up to our variation finish.
Never know till you actually put boots on the ground around the corner to the left. Bet Peter Croft knows what's over there!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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Look about right, EG? Don't know about that final twist of the vertebrae up at the end:
Lonni Kauk walking the 'back bone' on his solo ascent:
Back Bone, 2 words or 1?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 25, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Nope, wrong arete. Ed and I did go up that buttress on the right edge (not the left edge where you have it drawn). Then straight up at the end, not dog legging left like you have it. The Backbone is way over to the left, but your photo doesn't show it well. Take a look again at the first photo that I posted with the ink pen overlay (post 44 I think).
Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 25, 2016 - 03:21pm PT
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The picture of Lonnie is cool. That's the Backbone feature the route is named after. At the end of the ridge , where the sun spot is in the photo, there is a big block. That's where the 5.7 is, you lie back up the side of it, the rest of the route is 5.6 or easier.
I think Backbone is one word? Now that you mention it.
Eric Gabel
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Aug 25, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
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Climbed the powerhouse couloir a few years back
More snowed up than the pic.
Done a lot of great climbing there in
Lee Vining Canyon !
Winter is better...
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 12:44am PT
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So the Powerhouse Couloir is in the long gully to the left of the Backbone Arete? Is it in any guidebook or is it only known to Lee Vining Canyon regulars? Mixed ice and rock I'd say.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 01:01am PT
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So is this topo of the Backbone Arete more correct, Eric:
The line is obvious in Lonnie's pic, but at a distance there's a lot of rock on that headwall.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 10:14am PT
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Nope, not even close. Here is an overlay on your photo. Your photo is at a poor angle for documenting this, so it's not exact. The Backbone is on the left, and the route I did with Ed Hartouni is on the right.
The Powerhouse Couloir posted by Stewart Johnson, goes right between the North Ridge(left) and The Backbone(right) on his photo.
-Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 10:40am PT
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Here's a Google Earth view
Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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Ok, here's one more overlay of the area, for clarity.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
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Duh! I think I finally get it, Eric. Even the correct names for the ridge-aretes. Back to the drawing board!
I bet those routes are real obvious once you've climbed them. Trouble with Ellery Bowl is that it's been a sort of terra incognita for many years with individual routes going up without any long historical record chronicled in guidebooks. This string (plus your concrete experience) is clearing up a lot of mysteries.
Some people on my FB site have even stated that they thought those arete-ridges were further east in the canyon. Where!?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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Great overlay, Eric.
The formations are so "3-D" that a single standard photo has trouble showing the full situation.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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Here is the overlay from up thread. I deleted the original because it had the Northwest ridge in the wrong place.
From left to right:
-East Ellery Ridge 5.6
-North Ellery Ridge 5.6
-The Backbone 5.7
-Northwest Buttress 5.6
Except for The Backbone, these are just geographical names, and if you think they should be changed or aren't accurate, feel free to call them what you want.
This photo was taken from the Green Bridge area I believe. It's a good location to catch the sun/shade highlighting the ridges, so they show up in the photo. Of course the right time of day is important for getting the shot right too.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 01:28am PT
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Don't think you can make many mistakes about the North Ellery Buttress:
Pretty symmetrical.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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North Ridge looks good. I'd call that a "ridge" not a buttress though. It's probably only a grade III though and not a grade IV, unless you were roped up for it the whole way, which would probably ruin the climb. You'd only need a rope here and there, and a short one at that. We brought a hundred feet of 8mm on all the climbs, but never used it.
Bruce, could you make sure you change your photo on Mountain Project to the one I posted just above this. The original one I posted had the wrong overlay for the Northwest Buttress...oops! The one above is correct.
Thanks - Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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if only it was just "every inch"
but the insanity-of-detail you witness here is just the tip of the iceberg, believe me...
and though it is not necessarily evident in the completed product, it is a part of the process
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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Right, Ed. You can't get to honest simplicity until you work your way through all the nasty details. If you simplify too soon, you get big boo-boos.
Eric, you'll notice that I did change out the Ellery Ridge Panorama shot on Mountain Project. Starting to look a bit more accurate over there on MP thanks to all this banter. Rome wasn't built in a day!
I don't think I call them "buttresses" anywhere else except above. In fact, have been substituting "ridges" for "aretes" throughout. Search, Locate, Replace!
It's become painfully obvious throughout this string that there isn't any definitive topographic covering the Third Pillar of Dana area and adjacent ridges. So much anonymous activity through the years up there, that's little wonder, is it? Wonder what Falk knows? Will have to ask him when I return to the Pass in a few days.
But just think of the awesome overwhelming task of any guidebook author/editor who tried to include all the ice climbing in Lee Vining Canyon in a definitive guidebook! Better stick to rocks unless you've ice climbed up there for 30 years.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
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Randisi,
sorry about the all details, but having the line on the right ridge isn't the worst thing a guide book author can focus on. If you get one detail wrong in a guide book, everybody will call you out on it on the Internet, saying you should have done your homework better.
As far as the Ellery Ridges go, I don't share my adventures online very often, but thought some people would enjoy some of these. I did them with friends 12 to 15 years ago, so there has been plenty of time for people to discover them on there own. I wouldn't doubt they had been done prior to our ascents, too.
If your looking for adventures, there are at least 3 more major ridges and some good looking gully's to do in the Ellery Ridge area, so have at it if your interested.
That being said, I get your point and mostly agree, but a guide books purpose is to get people to a climb and remove the mystery from it, like it or not.
Eric Gabel
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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Bruce,
Perhaps you can help me out with a Yosemite Guide Book question?
There is a bolted route above Highway 120, between The Trix Area and The Owl. It goes up a white slab 50' above the road and into some knobs, where it appears to end unfinished. It has 6 or 7 bolts on it. I have a note in my book saying that this is your route?
If so, how hard, what's the name, who did you do it with, and when did you put it up? I have the 70's written down and "Sail Away" as a name?
Thanks for any help you can give me with this.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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There is a bolted route above Highway 120, between The Trix Area and The Owl. It goes up a white slab 50' above the road and into some knobs, where it appears to end unfinished. It has 6 or 7 bolts on it. I have a note in my book saying that this is your route?
"Sail Away" does sound familiar, but I can't recall drilling 6 or 7 bolts in the area between Trix and The Owl. Perhaps it's an obscure Cantwell route? Sorry I couldn't offer any specific help.
And, yes, if a guidebook author sends people onto non-existent routes, there's certain to be a chorus of jeers and complaints. Even if it takes a while to get the information right, it's better to take your time than to give other climbers misdirections.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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Ellery Ridges (so far):
Point out any big errors or omissions. These are already up on MP so I can edit them there.
Better view of the East Buttress and "The Backbone":
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 28, 2016 - 07:02am PT
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If only My ankles and knees were in condition to get to get on these....
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 08:58am PT
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Know what you mean. My old broken left leg still gets sciatica. Climbs and boulders close to the road okay but big alpine ridges not so good. Ouch! But Lonnie Kauk did love soloing The Backbone. Many more will now do it for sure. New classic!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 28, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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Bruce,
your overlay for the Backbone (fourth photo down) is still on the wrong ridge. Look at my overlay again. Your photo is still not the best angle for overlaying that route.
Your overlay for North Ellery Ridge (third photo down) is not very accurate either. You really can't see it from the photo angle you have, as it is further around the corner. Again, not the best photo angle to overlay that climb.
Everything else looks good.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 11:14am PT
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I'm assuming then that the Backbone is in the correct position in the 5th picture down? Kinda hard to miss it from that angle. Probably need to take another picture of it from the Green Bridge to work with.
So my sunset Backbone isn't completely wrong, my yellow line is just too far left of the true line of the arete. Hard to distinguish from that angle with the sun on it. Easier to see from down canyon or from across the way.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 28, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Yes, the last picture is a correct overlay for The Backbone (sixth picture down).
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 11:31am PT
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So easy to see it from a distance, so hard close up!
This must be wrong, but I had to give it another try anyway:
From this angle all the ridges are foreshortened and blend into each other without shadows.
I have another down-canyon shot that shows it even better, but the sunset shot is the direction a climber would be approaching it from.
By the way, Lonnie is still shouting about his solo of The Backbone. Really jazzed days later. "All alone on the Backbone!" Bet next summer parties are going to be lining up to do it. Just don't drop any rocks on the party behind you!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 28, 2016 - 11:55am PT
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Nope, still not even close.
Once again, please look at my overlay that I drew directly over your photograph, on post 145. It shows it as close as I can get it on your photo.
Glad to hear Lonnie likes it. Hopefully he'll try out the other two to the right, which are also good.
Eric Gabel
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 28, 2016 - 12:51pm PT
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Left Red line is upper part of Backbone, but much of it is hard to pick out against the background ridge.
Black text "The Backbone" to right is not on a known climb.
These show the in between ridges with no known climbs, at present (maybe loose rock...).
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Left Red line is upper part of Backbone, but much of it is hard to pick out against the background ridge.
Black text "The Backbone" to right is not on a known climb.
Ah hah! Now I see what Able Gabel is trying to indicate in his overlay shot.
I do remember that that area does have its share of loose rock. When Urmas and I did Mr Catastrophe (beneath the Northwest Ridge), I was really impressed with all the loose blocks. The second pitch of the Chicken Foot cracks was also in a class by itself as far as loose rock is concerned. It does seem that The Backbone ridge-arete is very, very solid tho. Therefore, pick and choose your line and watch yourself. The East Ellery Ridge, the North Ellery Ridge, and the Backbone all seem fairly solid. But the Northwest Ellery Ridge has some loose blocks to avoid as Ed Hartouni did successfully.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 28, 2016 - 03:36pm PT
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I would imagine the rock on the other ridges that I haven't climbed, is probably quite good. We encountered very little loose rock on any of the routes we climbed, with the exception of the block I launched off that almost killed Ed. That route (Northwest Buttress) wasn't particularly loose, just not as aesthetic as the others.
There are several other ridges to be climbed, and I would think they would be quite good. I just never got around to them.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 11:38pm PT
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"The Backbone" III 5.7:
Did I get close to it this time, Eric? But where is the 5.7 lb next to the block?
I do see some aretes to the right of The Backbone that look fairly solid and inviting. You never know till you get out there and try. That right-facing dihedral seems to lead to an arete that joins the Backbone up on the skyline. Any pioneers?
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 29, 2016 - 10:22am PT
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Your picture on post 170 is correct.
Your picture on post 171 is not correct and does not show the Backbone in that photo. Wrong ridge, again.
Not sure what is confusing you?
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2016 - 12:37pm PT
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I'll stick with #170. Just stumbled on #171 and wondered if it was a new view of The Backbone? Not! You're right about there being a lot of unclimbed ridges on that Lee Vining Canyon North Slope!
Deleted #171 from this string and also from The Backbone entry on Mountain Project. Finally looks pretty accurate.
Quick question: Where should I mark the 5.7 lb around the block in #170. I imagine people want to know where the crux of the route is. I think that 5.7 LB must be what you see Lonnie doing on his head cam video on Instagram and FB. Might not be too hard, but there sure is a lot of air below.
It's funny though from one angle all those ridges are really obvious, but from an oblique angle or straight on, they disappear into the slope. In the shots where they're obvious, there are shadows in the late afternoon sun.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 29, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 01:25am PT
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Here's an upgraded version of EG's shot above:
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Aug 31, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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Back in the early 90s
I would park at the power plant and
Solo what is called the north Ellery
ridge. Then cross the plateau and
Climb Dana glacier on to the
Summit of mt Dana
Then hitchhike down from the pass.
Once I got a ride all the way back to
The power plant !
And here is a photo of the route
Cerro Knarle'
Clean cracks and face makes it a
Great route at about 5.9 4 pitches
(Trying for a better photo)
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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I have a better picture of the Sphinx from that angle. Will try to draw your topo over it.
Looks like what everyone is calling the Orange Chimney is in fact Cerro K'narle'? Or, rather they are the same line with different names. This will certainly impact the Sphinx topo on MP.
Pretty stout enduro workout there! Lots of elevation gain over varied terrain. Definitely an A+ for effort!
Thanks for the help. Corrections like that really help unravel the mysteries of LVC.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Aug 31, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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Bruce!
There's no climbing in an orange chimney on Cerro Knarle'.
First pitch steps right across the big gash And follow an arch
back left to the base of the second pitch a 45 ' fist crack
Visible from the ground.
Ive been doing the climb for about 25 years.
I thought it was called Tioga peak from the old days.
There's another route I did with Todd Worsfold
that was more crumbly . To the right more,
Thanks for all your hard work!
Cheers, Paul
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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Sounds like the Orange Chimney and Cerro K'narle' are 2 separate routes that run close to one another. Have to indicate that on the topo. The Sphinx and Tioga Peak are definitely separate features.
Thanks for the clarification.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 31, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
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Sphinx - South Face
1. Cerro Knarle (aka South Face) 5.9 or 5.10a, 4p, starts L of Orange Chimney, then is right
p1: face with fixed knifeblade for pro, cross chimney, climb arch
p2: up to 45' 5.9 fist crack, to horizontal break
p3: face to upper corner, p3 or p1 has a fixed knifeblade piton
p4: finish
2. Orange Chimney
3. more crumbly route, right of Cerro Knarle, FA by Paul Teare and Todd Worsfold 1987
Sphinx - East Face
4. Short bolt and pro route to 2x anchor
5. Great Googley Boogley 5.10
6. Bighorn 5.10 - right of #6, cracks and corners, finishing w/ crack splitting upper headwall
7. East Ridge 5.7 (on skyline)
(Slightly edited version of ablegabel's August 4 post, which contains route descriptions and FA info):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2819395&msg=2854801#msg2854801
I heard back from Wayne Wallace about his South Face route in 1984:
It has been too long for me to remember much about the climb. It did go up the most prominent dihedrals though.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2016 - 01:33am PT
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Thanks a lot Clint! Looks like the inscrutable Sphinx is starting to yield some of its secrets. Keep poking away at it and we may get an accurate topo at last.
Sounds like that "Cerro K'narle'" is a pretty good route that ought to be seeing more mainstream traffic. Certainly is in a very spectacular location in LVC.
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Nudge Nudge
Trad climber
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I've always heard the Sphinx referred to as The Pope's Hat. I was up the canyon behind it last year for the first time for some patch-skiing.
Looking down the east ridge- is that the "halfway highpoint" with the 1959 peanut butter jar?
And for the backside route do you aim for the far left notch of the saddle?
-Nathan
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2016 - 12:31pm PT
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And for the backside route do you aim for the far left notch of the saddle?
ablegabel knows for sure. Maybe there are others?
This string sure is getting informative.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nathan,
Here's a overlay of the ridge with the 1959 register marked. To do the backside route, go up somewhere in the vicinity of my arrow (5.4 or 5.5) to the saddle, then up the ridge (one spot of 5.6 or 5.7) to the summit.
My friend Ian Ferguson climbed down the other side of the summit, and continued on the ridge up to the next peak. I see no reason why you couldn't access the summit by going to the top of the bowl, and doing that in reverse. But I haven't done it.
Eric Gabel
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Back to work EG! Word on the street is you'z got time. :)
Heal fast!
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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After climbing the Sphinx about 6-7 times
I don't recall any weirdness
To get back to the base
More like 3rd class down the east ridge
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Stewart Johnson,
I don't doubt there are other paths to follow. But I haven't found one that I'd call third class. Let's just say I haven't found any way that I'd send some one up with no climbing experience (i.e. third class).
I've been up there 4 or 5 times, and although we mostly third classed everything, There is a step on the ridge that is about 15' high, just before you walk the last couple hundred yards to the summit. On that step, there is a mantle move that is probably 5.6 or 5.7. It is the easiest way I have found. I've tried to the left and right, but those aren't as easy.
If you were coming down the ridge, you could probably just jump off this part, if your knees could take it. Maybe this is how you've done it?
As for gaining the saddle, the way I've gone is 5.4 ish on the back side, but there are other ways that may be easier, this is just the path I enjoy going up. We've also been down the front side of the saddle, which probably would be fourth class ish, if you found the right path. But there is still that step that you have to do before that.
I certainly don't doubt your recollection of the descent, this is just how I remember it. Glad to have shared a summit with you either way. It's nice up there.
Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 12:49pm PT
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With all this new info and pics coming in about The Sphinx, I'm going to hold off and let the dust settle before attempting to do a definitive topo. You'll notice I did a Sphinx topo on MP, but this new info is rapidly making that effort obsolete. Maybe someone has done Big Horn or the South Face and has some details to share regarding those routes?
One climber's 3rd class V-easy is another climber's 5.10+ solo.
Nice the way this string is bringing more information to light about this conspicuous feature right next to the Tioga Road. So far, we've found out that "Cerro K'narle'" (4-pitches 5.9) is a good route with a long history of ascents and that the "Great Googley Boogley" (4-pitches 5.10) is largely high-quality.
At least we haven't stirred up a hornet's nest of vitriol.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Hi Eric! Sorry man I don't jump off stuff
I don't Boulder because of that!
Can't recall anything worth noting
down climbing the ridge back to
the base where I leave a pack
But I could see just moving through the
Mantle you call 5.7 on the down.
I'm Trying to get down there and
get up Cerro Knarle ' before the snow
Flies! I agree it's a special summit
What a view !
Cheers
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Stewart,
Hope you get up there this season. Maybe give The Great Googley Boogley a run if you have time?
Bruce,
Could you check your email? I PM'd you through the Supertopo about a route in Little Yosemite I'm trying to find info on.
Munge,
Thanks for the encouragement (I think?). Yes I have some time on my hands again, and I'm putting it to good use as far as the project goes.
Eric Gabel
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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He's working on the other project, I can assure you of that!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Paul Teare,
Wayne Wallace sent me his journal page from his 1984 first ascent on the south face. He used the formation(?) name Cerro Knarle' at that time.
In ablegabel's route list, he has your 1987 route with that same name.
Was Cerro Knarle' intended as the name of the formation?
On Wayne's route, apparently pitch 1 or pitch 3 is a 5.10a face, where a KB piton was used for pro. This might help in locating the climb.
He also said "It did go up the most prominent dihedrals".
So my conclusion at present is that the red line you drew is the Wallace South Face route.
Is this correct?
Is there a fixed KB for pro on p1 or p3?
If this is correct, could you draw in your 1987 route with Todd Worsfold?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool, Ed. Summit register is a great original source!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 01:12am PT
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Is the "narrow diagonaling chimney" really the "Orange Chimney" (5.9)?
Lots and lots of questions.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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i did the fa of bighorn with mike strassman wonder where you got the route info as i did not report the route. on your topo it is right of route #6
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 09:20am PT
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I got the Big Horn info off of Eric Gabel's topo above. Corrections most welcome.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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East side underground,
To be clear, the overlay I posted was just a guess, and probably a poor one at that, based on what I could gather from the summit register and a fading memory. I tried to make that very clear when I posted it up thread (post #58)
It was reposted with an attempt to correct some of my guesses by Clint (post #178), as new information came in.
That being said, I'm glad some light is finally being shed on where some of the routes go. Your line looks cool. Was wondering if it was loose up in the roof area?
I think I found a stopper from your ascent when I climbed around the corner to check out our options, while putting up The Great Googley Boogley (#6 on that overlay).
-Eric Gabel
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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One good thing about this string is that it's leading, albeit slowly, toward an accurate topographic diagram of The Sphinx. Just have to sort out and reconcile all the data.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 11:40pm PT
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If ablegabel stepped around a corner on the Great Googley Boogley and found a stopper, my guess is that Big Horn is A. But . . . but . . . but . . . B does look interesting though.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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hey all bighorn pretty much follows route "A" on clints topo but toword top tends more right thru cracks in center of slab like "headwall " where A and B converge cheers
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Paul - I've updated the overlay.
Hopefully close now!
(You might have to refresh your browser to see the updated version).
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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strassman's original topo we used to call the crag pronghorn dome edit it does look like you are close with your A line clint after checking topo
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
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Sure looks like Clint's line matches the Bighorn topo, almost exactly.
Want to conserve all these changes while I await further developments before assimilating them in The Sphinx topo on Mountain Project. I notice there that Cerro K'Narle' and Bighorn are both misplaced, but the exact location of the South Face route still remains highly fluid.
Just keep the information pouring in here. I'm sure it'll all result in an accurate topographic in the long run. That Bighorn topo seems in exact accord with the features you can see in the photograph.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Paul Linaweaver,
Thanks for sharing the Bighorn topo!
Bruce (and Eric),
I think Cerro Knarle' and South Face are likely the same route, but waiting for Paul Teare to reply.
Paul Teare and Todd Worsfold did a second "crumblier" route a little to the right, where they wrote "Cerro Knarle'" on their page in the summit register.
But they may have been calling the formation Cerro Knarle' at that time.
Since Wayne Wallace wrote Cerro Knarle' in his journal earlier,
might as well call that first route Cerro Knarle' if the formation had previously been named The Sphinx?
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2016 - 02:17pm PT
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I think Cerro Knarle' and South Face are likely the same route, but waiting for Paul Teare to reply.
Just got to be patient. I'm sure it'll all clarify itself when other imputs come in. I've learned form tech writing that if you try to incorporate each change as they come in from marketing and/or engineering, you'll spend tons of energy going back and revising everything to match the new input. If you hold on to the inputs for a while, you'll be able to change everything at once and make the whole thing accurate. Better than Rev. 1A and Rev. 1B and Rev. 1C ad infinitum, ad nauseum.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The advantages of procrastination! (Sometimes I take it way too far, though).
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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After Wayne and I did the second ascent
of The climb Cerro Knarle' it became apparent
that Fletcher Wilson (Wayne's partner on the FA )
had named the entire peak Cerro Knarle'
That was in 1984.
We have been calling it that ever since.
The Sphinx is a nice name but not what the
first modern climbers referred to it as . Ask Wayne.
And in addition the south face route I
Climbed with Todd Worsfold is a
Completely different route which is right
of the Cerro Knarle climb.
As far as me locating that I've got
a pretty good idea where that is but I'm going to
go have a proper look up close and talk
to Todd as it has been awhile.
We didn't keep such a tight record of
climbs like Wayne did.
Cheers Paul
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2016 - 12:48pm PT
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Much to my surprise, when I hiked up to take some better pictures of the "Ellery Arete" (5.10d) on the Spillway Crag, I immediately noticed that the entire face of the arete had collapsed and, in the process, taken out all 4 protection lead bolts plus the double-bolt anchor on top:
Always seemed sort of creaky and fragile, but not so creaky and fragile it would collapse. A couple weeks ago, Rick Accomazzo said he climbed it, but he must have climbed the "Ellery Arete" (5.11a) because from the photos, it's obvious the "Spillway Arete" was obliterated at least two years ago, probably during the winter from the weight of snow on top. But who really knows for sure?
Suppose it could be bolted and re-established, except the angle is much lower now, resulting in a much easier route.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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Think the Sphinx has gone by a good number of names, including "Mt Crumblepies", "The Pope's Hat", "Cerro K'narle'", and "Prong Horn" (?). There must be more?
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Sep 14, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
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The Sphinx is a nice and proper name,
There's a lot of people saying.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Sep 14, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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Bruce,
You're right. Brassnuts and I climbed the Ellery Arete, to the right of the 5.9 crack. Funny thing, the whole talus slope above the crag seemed unusually unstable, and while descending we both slipped on what seemed to be a really fresh scree slope. I had a hard landing, and I am still bruised from it.
Also, at the base of the 5.9 crack, Gold Mind,there was a block with a bolt drilled into it sitting at the base, which seemingly must have fallen from the crag.
All this to say that it may be that the cliff or the entire slope is moving, so be careful over there.
Rick
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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Think the area above and behind the Spillway Crag was dynamited by the early miners, Rick. In my first pic of the Spillway Arete, I think I can detect some of the features of the old route, laying on top of each other, that are actually down by the Mining Road now. Exciting!
Here's one I took from the Tioga Road of Eric Gabel's "Warren Towers", which suggests the long approach march up to the base:
However, I hear from locals that a much easier approach would be to go up Warren Canyon and turn east toward Lee Vining Peak and then descend to the base of the Warren Towers from above. Much gentler slope up a creek bottom that way.
But to each his own!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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Paul Teare,
Thanks for explaining about the name of the formation and routes.
It seems like the name Cerro Knarle' should be used somewhere.
If not for the formation, then for Wayne's FA?
If so, then we'll need a name for the FA you did with Todd.
I just tried sending Todd an email via his profile, as he has posted here in the past. I sent him a message on facebook, too.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2016 - 01:28am PT
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Here's a telephoto of the upper stretch of Eric Gable's "The Backbone" (III, 5.7) taken a few days ago from the Green Bridge overlook on US 120:
Eric Gabel is correct: in just the right light the line stands out. I think you can even see the 5.7 crux lie-back move to surmount the big block.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2016 - 01:34am PT
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Much improved angle and lighting!
Line is looking good, too - matches the larger photo.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2016 - 01:58am PT
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Think you can see the whole "Backbone" ridge in this larger pic taken in the same light as the first telephoto:
Makes you want to climb it when it's showcased in the right light. If Lonnie liked it so much, it must be way cool.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Just photographed and drew this new topo for the "Chicken Foot Cracks" in Ellery Bowl down and to the east of "Speed of Life":
Scott Cole and Grant Hiskes did the lower 2 cracks back in 1977 and Urmas Franosch and I did the 5.10a continuation in September 1990. The OW continuation could use some solid anchors. I seem to remember wrapping off some chock stones stuck in the crack at the top of the OW. Certainly not the best climbs in the area, but they definitely are there.
To find them, wander west across the talus from the Queen Jane Area passing heaps of unappealing choss.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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Here's a recent shot of the unnamed trad 5.6 route to the left of the "Gold Mind" (5.9) in the center of the Spillway Crag on the Ellery Mining Road:
FA: Norman Boles and Brian Bennet, late 1980s. A few nuts and cams.
Just put it here because I've actually seen people leading it from time to time.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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Took a more intimate shot last week of the North Ellery Ridge (5.6) from the Warren Creek turnout on the Tioga Road (US 120):
Gives a pretty good idea of the epic scale of this low numbers but beautiful aręte route. Easier than the "The Backbone", but with views that are no doubt just as spectacular.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2016 - 11:14am PT
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Spotted a off-width crack that is located about a 1/2 mile west of the junction of Poole Power Plant Road and the Tioga Road (US 120):
There's a granite bench just below that hides it from traffic on the Tioga Road and it seems to have a companion chimney climb to its right.
Anyone investigated these obscure beauties? They seem winter-friendly, even in snowy Lee Vining. Maybe some slab routes too?
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
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Took this telephoto of the second crack pitch of "Cerro Knarle" (III 5.9) on the Sphinx formation last week:
You can see where CK crosses the first pitch of the Orange Chimney (5.9). It looks like you can see the 3rd 5.9 crack pitch of Cerro Knarle too perhaps? The rock on the Sphinx actually looks pretty good, but the road-cut approach leaves something to be desired I thought.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2016 - 12:44pm PT
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Bump for more info on Cerro Knarle. Think I see 3 of the pitches in my tele.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2016 - 11:50pm PT
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Nathan - Thanks for providing info about those 2 lines and the Cocktower. Do those crumbly wide cracks have names? Ratings?
More and more info for a big Lee Vining Canyon guidebook. So much obscurity in that canyon. So much must have gone on in there through the years.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
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Eric Gabel is free to correct me, but last week I think I did get a fairly accurate photograph of his ridge route, "The Backbone" (III 5.7), running up the south side of Lee Vining Canyon to Dana Plateau:
Eric did say that when the light was right, it really did standout. I think this was from a turnout a little ways down below the Green Bridge on US 120.
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Nudge Nudge
Trad climber
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Oct 14, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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Bruce-
I didn't see any signs of anything being climbed, so I had called the area T's Terrace, but no route names yet. Here's another new discovery in LV canyon, called it Jiffy Pop crag. Quick approach, fun easy routes on very featured rock.
-Nathan
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Wow, thanks Nathan. Where is that exactly? Along US 120 or the Poole Power Plant Road? Seems to be a bunch of new stuff across from the Power Station itself on the north side of the Canyon too.
I've got the feeling that this project is going to grow into a 100 page magnum opus before it's said and done.
But that OK. Lee Vining Canyon can act as a sort of "Anti-T. Meadows" over-flow area! Areas like that with short approaches are bound to be popular in the future.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2017 - 01:50am PT
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Does anyone know about routes on Elephant Head Rock just off the north side of Tioga Pass Road (US 120) near the east end of Lee Vining Canyon? It's just after the long downhill before the bottom of LVC flattens out. Think I heard about some routes there, but don't know any particulars.
Anyone know about Elephant Head Rock and any routes on it?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Feb 28, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
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Bruce: Scott Cole, Becky and I put up some gear protected crack routes in one of the side canyons on the north side of Hwy. 120 near the bottom of the grade years ago. They were never reported to anyone. They were pretty stout - 5.10+ to 5.11. I don't think I can explain their location but next time I'm there I can send you a photo.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Thanks Urmas. I seem to remember those routes you and Becky and Scott put up on Elephant Head Rock. Maybe you told me about them? They're pretty close to the road near the bottom of the grade.
Just noticed that the formation did have a name: Elephant Head Rock. At least that's what Caltrans calls it.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2017 - 02:03pm PT
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Here's the FA information I have for the Sphinx formation so far:
The Sphinx
Orange Chimney (II 5.9) FA: Paul Teare/Todd Worsfold 1987
Cerro K’Narlé (II 5.10a) FA: Wayne Wallace/Fletcher Wilson September 13, 1984, 2nd ascent: Wayne Wallace/Paul Teare May 29, 1985
South Face (III 5.10b) FA: Stewart Johnson/Todd Worsfold (date?)
1-Pitch Bolt & Natural Pro Pitch FA: Wayne Wallace et al. Oct. 1, 1989
Great Googley Boogley FA: Eric Gabel/Ed Hartouni July 9, 2011
Big Horn (II 5.10b) FA: Paul Linaweaver/Mike Strassman October 1987
East Ridge (II 5.7) Upper East Ridge: FA: W.G. ‘Gerald’ Yongue August 19th 1938. Entire East Ridge: FA: Anon as early as 1959
East Ridge Continuation FA: Ian Ferguson
Any corrections of new information to add? Still not sure about that South Face route. Seem like there are 3 possibilities to the right of Cerro Knarlé? I'm thinking it's the one just left of the 1-Pitch Bolt & Natural Pro Route Wayne Wallace attempted back in Oct. 89, but not sure.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2017 - 02:04am PT
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Here's a panorama I just put together of all 3 Warren Towers with an inset showing the routes on the North Tower:
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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cerro knarle' route on the left, south face on right
stewart johnson is the avatar for Paul Teare , i never climbed an orange chimney.
thanks for all your work on the guidebook, Bruce!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2017 - 02:24pm PT
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Thanks a lot Stewart! Now I can see the 4 pitches of "Cerro K'Narlé" and where the heck the South Face actually is. Okay, so it's back to the re-edit, re-draw procedure for the 100th time. But it's great to finally be getting The Sphinx right at last.
Which brings up another question - What are the 2 lines to the right of the South Face on Ablegabel's Sphinx topo? You'll notice that between Cerro K'Narlé and the 1-Pitch Bolt and Natural Pro line, Eric has drawn in three lines. The left-most of which is your South Face. But the other two are as yet unidentified.
At least with all this rain, I've finally got the Pyramid and the North, Middle and South Warren Towers in the bag and that's saying a lot! Finally figured out the Ellery Ridges too. But that dang Sphinx still holds some mysteries.
So, you're saying SJ is really PT? Have to change some FA info in the back now.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Yep, stewart johnson is just an avatar Bruce! I didn't get out to climb the knarley tower route last season but hopefully this year! Once again thanks for your diligent efforts in getting it right!
sincerely , Paul
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Yeah, you just got to keep going back to it again and again. Just like an engineering project.
But I was also wondering about Cerro K'Narlé? Seems like you third-class up to the small roof to the left of the Orange Chimney and start belaying the 5.10a face pitch from there, which would technically be the first pitch of roped climbing. Then, the 5.9 hands is pitch 2.
At the end of Pitch 4 it looks like there's a short 3/4th class scramble up to the true Sphinx Summit: el. 10,160.
Looks like you show 3 pitches on the South Face route (5.10b). Thought I read somewhere that it has 4 pitches (or does you're line cover up the little dot for a belay)?
At least the routes are all in the right places and sequence now! Thanks a million.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Photos from the early 90s
Yes bruce the climbing starts after a 3rd class scramble to the base of the orange chimney.
Step right and begin the 1st pitch face/arch.
The last pitch goes through a roof at 5.9 excellent!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2017 - 01:53pm PT
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Thanks Stewart! Your info keeps fleshing out the details a little bit at a time. Good to have more pics too. That second pitch of Cerro K'Narlé does look pretty amazing. The hand crack is obvious from the base, but this closeup gives you an even better idea how good it is.
Have to do CK myself next summer and draw a real detailed topo. But when is the Pass going to open this year? August?
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Mar 10, 2017 - 11:13am PT
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Urmas, Becky and I climbed several routes in a side canyon at the bottom of the grade on what you are calling Elephant Rock. We called it Bighorn Crag after seeing several sheep on our first visit. Like Urmas mentions a few posts above the routes are stout. One I remember we called Big and Horny, and another was Ram It.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2017 - 04:42pm PT
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Think Caltrans calls it Elephant Head Rock, but what you're referring to scole is definitely the same formation. Lots of mysteries in Lee Vining Canyon like the 2-pitch 5.10a hand crack that me and Yerian and Marc Hill did on the north side of the canyon up the hill opposite the Power Station. Must have been c. 1987. Nice route except that D. Yerian almost dropped a 400 lb block on me and Hill from on top of the first pitch. Well, the block isn't there anymore . . . . A day to remember!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2017 - 02:39am PT
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Front and back covers for the new expanded and revised 2nd edition of the Climber's Guide to Ellery Bowl:
Hopefully it will be out by the time the snow melts and the road opens in late June or early July?
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Since all of Lee Vining Canyon seems to be covered in this thread, here is a shot of Dave Yerian on an unnamed crack in the lower canyon off the powerhouse rd. About 1980 I think
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2017 - 01:34am PT
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Marc Hill and Yerian and I did some stuff down at the bottom of Lee Vining Canyon up to the north of the Power Station in 1987. Wonder how close this is to that? Urmas Franosch says he's been doing some new routes across Lee Vining Creek on the south side too.
Well, the new expanded 2nd edition of the Ellery Guide was published yesterday, May 9th, 2017th. Now comes the hardest work of all, getting it distributed through REI and Amazon, Planet Granite and Touchstone et al. Even got a ISBN number.
About 57+ pages, 72 routes I think, plus FA information and index.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
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Marty Lewis tells me the 2nd edition of the Ellery Guide is now available at the Maximus Press site:
http://maximuspress.com/shop/products.php?cat=7
It's on consignment there.
A complete climbing guide to Lee Vining Canyon is a mammoth project, but at least this new guide is a step in that direction. So much stuff though that no one knows much about next to and around the Third Pillar area. Must be some projects up there too that people don't want anyone to know about.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2017 - 12:18am PT
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Some people at the front desk at Planet Granite Belmont said they climbed some routes at Elephant Rock/Bighorn Crag. I think Justine Formoso was one of those involved. Just stopped there and did them a few years ago.
Think it's Cal Trans that calls it Elephant Rock.
Time to go over the hill and take a peek!
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Sep 14, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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Give a shout if you want to check it out. I would go with you.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Sep 15, 2017 - 09:54am PT
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Ram It and Big and Horny are perfect introductions to the Bighorn Crag. Take Urmas up on his offer Dr. Morris
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Nudge Nudge
Trad climber
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Mar 11, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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Here's another new discovery in LV canyon, called it Jiffy Pop crag. Quick approach, fun easy routes on very featured rock.
Update from my 2016 post... Two routes were done ground-up during summer 2018. Really bizarre and enormous granite pockets.
And another new crag nearby, currently only TR'd.
-Nathan
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