Classic ice axes and wood ice tools

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Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Dec 28, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
I do wonder about the whole Chounrd/Frost vs. MacInnes Terrordactyl story. One of the sources I used is the book Glace published by Blue Ice, widely available in Chamonix. they have some neat history about hard mixed climbing in the UK in the 1950's and 1960's, and talk about the Terrordactyl being used in 1964,

That whole story is missing an important chapter. Hamish MacInnes didn't invent the Terrordactyl out of nowhere. In fact, there was hard ice (not just mixed, but pure ice) climbing in the UK well before the 1950s, and some of the pioneers of that period passed on their knowledge to MacInnes.

A small group of climbers in the mid-to-late 1930s pioneered hard winter climbing in Scotland, and one of the things that allowed them to advance standards was their rejection of the classic long ice axe in favor of a new tool -- a modified slater's hammer.

The group included Bill McKenzie, Archie McAlpine, Bill Murray and a few others. I think they were also the first to develop headlamps for climbing, but here's was Bill Murray had to say about the idea of a shorter axe...

Apart from head-torches, the main equipment changes were the slater's hammer and long ropes. The normal ice-axe had a 33-inch shaft. The wrist strain of prolonged, one-handed cutting above the head was severe, and a slater's pick with a 14-inch shaft eased it greatly — the climbing time on a pitch could be almost halved. I reckoned that the ten shillings I paid to an ironmonger for my first pick was the best-spent money I ever laid down on a counter. I have rarely enjoyed anything in life more than cutting up a long, high-angled ice-pitch where the balance was delicate. The craft used had to vary with the quality of the ice: white, green, blue, black, brittle, and watery, each had a quirk of its own, which had to be learned until one could tell them apart at a glance and cut accordingly.

When I first read this, I had no idea what a "slater's pick" was -- other than that it must have been something used to break and cut slate used for roofing. A bit of googling turned up this picture:


Pretty easy to see this as the origin of modern ice tools.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 29, 2016 - 07:50am PT
I have always been puzzled by the creepingly slow genesis of ice climbing equipment. Sure, every year now brings new products to the market but for over a century improvements were, well, glacial.
I did the first American ascent of Point Five Gully in the early 70's with straight shafted tools sans wrist loops.
Check out in the picture below the ice tools we used on Latok 1 in 1978,
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