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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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Rocks State Park - Maryland
Carderock - Maryland
McKenzie Pond - Adirondacks
Short, scruffy, technique labs
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
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Those are my favorite the rest are not.
Sorry...
Arizona is cool, though. All jokes aside. Haven't been to Lemmon yet looks amazing (won't be in top 3 tho not by a mile).
Desert sandstone I don't really like that much, so Utah is out. And I'm fat, so much for sport climbing.
I guess nostalgia plays a big part into it? Who knows but I like my annoying little state :3
Fair enough. BTW, none of my all time favorite three places were in AZ either.
Curt
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:56pm PT
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hey FIVETHIRTY
mizugaki is the quintessential japanese climbing experience. people say ogawayama but mizugaki is way more interesting. its actually just over the back of ogawa but gets little attention from the masses (even tho yuji, steve house and world class boulderers head there).
its several areas arranged along ridge made of teetering granite spires. lots of 10 - 12 pitch stuff, steep, some big roofs. its japanese granite so perhaps more scoured and rounded off than sharp edged.
as yet mostly routes 5.12 and upwards, inc 5.14 stuff yuji puts up (multipitch 5.14...), but theres still hundreds of new route options. the usual bizarre mix of japanese hardware and lots of natural.
being there-wise: very quiet, clean water, relatively short access, heavily forested, no trash/rangers/paying to park, 2hrs from tokyo. anywhere else it would be heavily trafficked. of course the gooood stuff you wont find on a public forum.....
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Apr 20, 2016 - 12:57am PT
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Needles CA
TM
Tetons. Can't believe I'm the first to claim them
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bazo qop
Boulder climber
Lexington ky
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:20am PT
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Castle Hill basin...
The Tetons...
The Port Hills (Christchurch...)
Red River Gorge....
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:24am PT
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In reality I should just list the Valley three times but that would make me look pretty limited in climbing scope. So...
The Valley, I grew up here.
Jtree an outdoor climbing playground in a beautiful setting.
Fontainebleau, for the endless days of just pure fun.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 20, 2016 - 06:12am PT
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Pinnacles (It is only for the chossen few)
Sonora Pass
Toulumne Meadows
Castle Rock State Park
Yosemite Zoo, not so much anymore.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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The Valley three times Marty.....yes on climbing and scenery, a resounding no on camping, people and ambience.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Jim that's my exact feeling about Indian Creek. It's been loved to death.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:39am PT
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keep the best close to your vest. splor'ers favor the yet undone
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:45am PT
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Jim seems as much focused on the scene or overall experience as the climbing. He has time on his hands to hang. I don't like the new Indian Creek nearly as much as when camping was at Newspaper Rock or dispersed below Bridger Jack. That was to me more congenial shall we say. I would rather now go to Mexican Mtn Road than the Creek and have a campsite for a small group without others around.
Good camping/climbing combos:
The Swell ;)
Moab BITD, now too many people and too restrictive on camping
The City about ideal, hot springs pizza and beer
Lover's Leap
Idlewild
Joshua Tree sometimes, and sometimes it's full of asses.
Vedauwoo
Custer State Park
Hueco Tanks BITD before the "ambience" changed
Bow Valley (someone mentioned above) outside Canmore
Turkey Rocks
Some of the Euro camping scenes are so nice you can overlook the crowds.
Arco, e.g., camping at lower right:
This is more my style:
But, this is where to look for me next:
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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1. Shuteye
2. Courtright
3. Bishop
Wish list.
Squamish
Cochise
Blue Mnts
Patagonia
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:14am PT
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Turkey Rock, Colorado
City of Rocks
Arapiles
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Hey Greg, The world is your oyster...
Jim B., I can't get the image of Devils Tower in the Pacific at outside Pacheco out of my mind. I dreamed about it last night. It would constitute the best climbing & surfing combo in the world. And then afternoon beers on the porch at Java Beach...
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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Wadi Rum
Cochise
Meteora
probably a tie between Cochise & El Potrero.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Shelf Rd, beautiful camping and 1600 routes within a mile walk.
Black Canyon, beautiful camping on both sides of the rim and great blue collared routes in a spectacular setting.
Rio Grande Gorge near Taos, NM....great free camping and hundreds of mixed sport and trad routes in a beautiful canyon setting.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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My criteria included the camping in the Dolomites: My favorites are Albergo Silvana, (Wolkenstein); Pension Grohmann (St, Cristina); Hotel Bellaria (Cortina). Food, ambience, and approaches to the climbs entered in: many are only a few hundred feet, and mostly to the telephereique or chairlift. Excellent rock, plenty of routes, and always a nearby alternative to avoid crowded routes. Cheap wine, good food. Rest my case.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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OK, OK. Most favorite, meaning where I've spent the most time climbing & had the most fun with the best people?
City of Rocks despite some fellow Idaho folks that hang there.
SE Utah in general, despite this banner ad that just appeared on this thread.
And Leavenworth WA area, despite not having climbed there since 1983.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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The Valley three times Marty.....yes on climbing and scenery, a resounding no on camping, people and ambience.
I hear you Jim, but I actually haven't been to the Valley since 1994 so not up to speed on current conditions. I grew up in Modesto and made my first family trip to the Valley sometime in the early 60's, started climbing there at 15, would go up after school and do things like Royal Arches by headlamp and TR Generator Crack. Climbed NA wall on a swami and sling for leg loops. I have so many memories from the Valley over many years.
I have climbed many places all around the world, and most of them are beautiful, but for me Yosemite Valley is home.
Marty
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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[Yosemite Valley] has not changed appreciably since 1994, Marty. The Valley is the valley. Folks leave it... not the other way around.
FWIW I don't go there (nearly as) much anymore either.
I, too, don't go there as often as before, but then I started climbing when camping was free. There has been, however, one big change since 1994. The NPS closed the River campgrounds (Camps 7 and 15, for my generation) and has not replaced them or added any Valley camping capacity. As a result, there are more day visitors and fewer campers than there would otherwise be.
John
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