Discussion Topic |
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 19, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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Consider the whole package....climbing, camping, scenery, weather, people and ambience.
Mine are, in order:
Indian Creek
The Black Canyon
City of Rocks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:01am PT
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Not in order, but pared down to 4 venues, including the whole package...
Joshua Tree in the 80s and even 90s, but left off because JT's time has come and gone for me in many ways.
SoYo
SonoraPass/108
Yosemite/Tuolumne in small doses
Pinnacles
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Anglesey, Calanques, e gli Dolomiti.
OK, so the food at Anglesey might not equal the others but it beats them for weather!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:07am PT
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Vedauwoo
Planet Wingate
Anything deemed subpar by the hordes
In that order
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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Lovers Leap (not on a weekend)
Tuolumne Meadows
Donner Summit (again, mid-week)
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:13am PT
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Black Canyon
Maple canyon
Hells Canyon
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:15am PT
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California
Spain
Canada
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:17am PT
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Tahquitz/Suicide
Sierra Nevada
Do I have to pick a third one?
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Eldorado Canyon
Devil's Tower
Squamish
Lumpy Ridge, South Platte, Cochise Stronghold, Chamonix and the Needles of CA get honorable mention.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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1) The Gunks
climbing - Awesome
camping - I never camp when I climb there--so not an issue
scenery - Awesome
weather - Admittedly hit or miss
people - Generally nice
ambience - The best
2) Joshua Tree
climbing - Admittedly hit or miss
camping - Good, but crowded
scenery - Awesome
weather - Generally great and very predictable
people - It's California, dude
ambience - Outstanding
3) Needles / Rushmore (SD)
climbing - Outstanding
camping - Good
scenery - Incredible
weather - Generally good in season
people - Typical tourist area, but not bad
ambience - Fantastic
Curt
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:46am PT
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Joshua Tree
Lover's Leap
Squamish
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:10am PT
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so much rock so little time...
Donini; what!? No Patagonia? How could you leave out Kazakhstan?
City of Rocks is so fine.
But the clean unsurpassed beauty of Charlotte Dome is unrivaled. Especially the runnel's pitches.
The magic quality of Yosemite Valley. The crystal knobs of Toulomne.
The clean classic granite of Tahquitz & Suicide.
So much fun to be had at Joshua Tree.
Red Rocks so fine.
The beauty of Zion.
Who could pick only three?
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Red Rocks
Tahquitz
Sierras & Yosemite.
They are pretty much the closest best spots to where I live.
Joshua Tree is up there for me too.
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Pete_N
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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JTree
Tahquitz/Suicide
Yosemite
The first and last are so very different now, but nostalgia interferes with my ability to be current/objective...and there are still good times to be had.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:43am PT
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Any where there is rock ,
I climb. that above is New Jersey
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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What this thread needs is some pics.
Taylor Canyon, Gunnison
Lumpy Ridge
BuChae Rock (Pusan, Korea)
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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all the places that I've climb in the last 10....no 15 yrs is small and easy to get to. . .
well except for
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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Places that are now closed, off-limits or I've never been to. Otherwise:
1. Yosemite NP (valley + high country)
2. Mt. Washington Valley NH + the roadside crags
3. Gunks
The only thing that keeps the Daks off the list is Black Fly season.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Eldo
South Platte
Lumpy Ridge
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Unfortunately the weather criterion hammers on some great Canadian venues with relatively short seasons. I you don't mind a 5 month season then:
Ghost River
Squamish
Joshua Tree (the heat outside of prime time is too much for me)
it is a pity that Red Rocks might be one of the best areas anywhere IF the camping, hang, and surroundings were better. Why couldn't nature have situated Red Rocks about 100 miles from Vegas?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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It's tough to keep it to three, but off the top of my head I'd pick:
The Needles (Sequoia)
King's Canyon back country (Gorge of Despair)
The first two are no brainers for me. The third is tougher, lots of competition. For now I'll say Courtright Reservoir. Or Devil's Tower, or The Gunks, or Josh, or ...
Edit: The only thing that keeps the Daks off the list is Black Fly season.
I'll second that.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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Different places have occupied the top three spots at different times during the 30 years I've been climbing.
First, the Gunks. I don't think I'd have graduated from college without them, and without the climbing community I fell into there.
Second, the South Dakota Needles. You know you're leading a lucky climbing existence when you're a shaky 5.9 climber in the Sylvan Lake parking lot on your first morning in the area and the people who take you under their wings to give you a week-long tour are Kevin Bein, Barb Devine, and Paul Muehl. Taking the longer view, I'd add Devils Tower into my Needles mix. Gotta have them both, as a package. If I could put one American rock on wheels and park it in my backyard, it would be the Tower. Actually, I'd park it about three blocks inland from Ocean Beach, in San Francisco, and move to the outer Sunset. Or even better, I'd put it about 200m offshore off the end of Pacheco Street, making the West Face the Tower into a seacliff for climbing and surfing the killer sandbars that would form to the north and south. On the downside, I'd never do another day's work in my life.
Third. Eldo. The door to which was opened for me by Casey Newman, Pat Minniear, Michele Hanson, Dave Light, and others. But especially Casey.
Since then, Yosemite, Tuolumne, Indian Creek, Lumpy, RMNP, Vedauvoo and several others have had their seasons in the sun.
The three rockclimbing areas I most want to climb but haven't: Cochise Stronghold in NM, Elbestandstein in Germany, and English gritstone (I have climbed grit, but just a few days). Would like to spend a season in each one.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:21am PT
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Sequoia/Kings Canyon NP
Climbing: Amazing
Camping: Anywhere you want
Scenery: Favorite I've seen
Weather: Perfect
People: None
Ambiance: Mellow
I don't climb much outside of SEKI but I've never climbed anywhere I didn't like, as long as nobody else is on the route or at the base waiting. That's my only criteria for "will not return" status.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:59am PT
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Sierra, Cordillera Blanca and Fitz Roy/Cerro Torre Massif
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Apr 19, 2016 - 12:20pm PT
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3 Cheers for the Wind Rivers. Nobody has mentioned the place yet. I know the bugs can be bad, and the hikes can be long; however the fishing can be great, depending on where you go. Nice alpine climbing can be had too.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 19, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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1) The next new place I go...
2) The next new place after 1)...
3) COR/Castle Rock and/or LCC/BCC.
A few spots across the puddle would be fav's to go back to:
Kalymnos
Chiavenna
Arco
Finale Ligure
Ecrins
Presles
Calanques
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
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I can only speak of California, but for me, it's Yosemite Valley and Pinnacles, only because each is so different. The third one, however, is a toughie, because I love climbing in Tuolumne Meadows and in almost every area in the western Sierra. Well, I love the east side, too, but I don't get there enough.
I'll choose Courtright as the third, only because I can reach it in 90 minutes from home, but I suspect if my car had better ground clearance, Shuteye would probably be the one.
John
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 19, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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For pure rock climbing -
Flagstaff, Arizona
The basalt is as good as it gets
Ambience - no fixed gear, in the pines, great camping, cool in summer
Granite Mountain, Arizona
Gotta be one of the best granite crags anywhere
Old school physical and stout
Stanage, Peak District, Britain
Grit is awesome and all the areas are great, but I was supposed to pick one
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
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Guess I'm a California boy through and through:
1. Needles
2. Yosemite (the Valley and Tuolumne)
3. The Sierra
I was thinking back on my climbing resume recently and realized why I had not done any bigger climbs overseas and I came to the conclusion that, when I had the time, my first preference was to climb something on the Captain or hit the Sierra.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Red Rock
City of Rocks
Bow Valley
Stevo
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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1. Pacific Edge
2. Planet Granite Belmont
3. Planet Granite SF
:p
Edit before the sh*tstorm: Shuteye, Castle Crags (new entry!), High Sierra.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:41pm PT
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My cousin works at Belmont, so it's the company, not the climbing, that brings me there.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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1. Tahquitz/Suicide
2. Joshua Tree
3. Eastern Sierra
I need to travel more!
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Apr 19, 2016 - 03:03pm PT
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Joshua Tree
Southern Sierra
Christmas Tree Pass
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Gunks Guy
Trad climber
New Paltz, NY
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Apr 19, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Yosemite
Gunks
Needles (South Dakota)
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Camahoo
Trad climber
Dead Pine Ridge, Ca
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Apr 19, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
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Shuteye
Southern Yosemite
Hinterland
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 19, 2016 - 03:57pm PT
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Won't argue with any listed, and its near impossible to choose, but these three are special to me.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
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Toulumne
JT
Needles (CA)
Hard to choose:
Red Rocks/Gunks/Black Canyon
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Apr 19, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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Mizugakiyama
Sydney sea cliffs
A little spot in sichuan i aint tellin about
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
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Eastern Sierra
Needles (SoDak)
JT--(before it turned into a total sh!t-show)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Needles/Rushmore-Harleys being the only real ding against it.
City of Rocks- Damn near perfect
Homestake/Wedge- Where? :)
but Devils Tower is my single favorite place to climb.
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ruppell
climber
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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The Gunks cause I learned to climb there.
The Sierra Nevada cause it's now my back door.
The T-Wall. If you've never been your missing out.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:23pm PT
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City of Rocks
Devil's Tower
Tuolomne
Oh wait! And a whole bunch of other places!!! :-)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 19, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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climbing, camping, scenery, weather, people and ambience.
Idyllwild (More than anywhere I've climbed this place has grown on me - the town, the people, the history, the quality, the exploration, the views, the weather, the season, the challenges, the food... everything. It's the best anywhere.)
Bishop (like Idyllwild spread out over a huge valley, with far more variety and far more people.)
Tuolumne Meadows (if it is in season, it has the best ambiance climbing and views but perhaps annoying crowds and the park service annoyances bump it down. Take away the infrastructure and the 8 months it is under snow and it easily beats idyllwild, but if i had wheels I'd be a wagon...)
Joshua Tree was close, but due to the fact that the climbing is tucked away in uncle sams fences and the overbearing management didn't make the cut.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Apr 19, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Alabama Hills
Tuolumne
Skaha (BC) If Skaha were in California it would be the most popular spot.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 19, 2016 - 07:07pm PT
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Meadows
IC
Josh
2nd List:
Lovers Leap
Ophir Wall and vicinity
Needles of Sequoia
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:36pm PT
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Idyllwild (More than anywhere I've climbed this place has grown on me - the town, the people, the history, the quality, the exploration, the views, the weather, the season, the challenges, the food... everything. It's the best anywhere.)
Bishop (like Idyllwild spread out over a huge valley, with far more variety and far more people.)
Tuolumne Meadows (if it is in season, it has the best ambiance climbing and views but perhaps annoying crowds and the park service annoyances bump it down. Take away the infrastructure and the 8 months it is under snow and it easily beats idyllwild, but if i had wheels I'd be a wagon...)
Joshua Tree was close, but due to the fact that the climbing is tucked away in uncle sams fences and the overbearing management didn't make the cut.
Nice places. It's a shame there's no decent climbing outside of California. You need to get out more.
Curt
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:51pm PT
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Never was a focused rock-climber, preferred alpine climbing, so I never spent a lot of time touring rock venues. But here are my top 3
Yosemite/Tuolomne
Squamish
South Platte
^^^ Notice all are granite
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
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1. Frey
2. Tuolumne
3. Sequoia
edit to add that the Obed and Dels Lilly Pad is pretty sweet. Want to spend more time there. And the Needles CA doesn't suck.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:53pm PT
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Cochise Stronghold
Joshua Tree
Buttermilks
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:00pm PT
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Index WA
New River Gorge WV
Squamish BC
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:23pm PT
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this is kind of a tough one... hard to narrow it down to three... my rationale was if i could never climb anywhere else again except for three places that i already know and love, what would they be...
the three left standing:
the ghost
the bugaboos
the cochise stronghold
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:04pm PT
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For me, the choice(s) are simple:
#1 Dolomites
#2 Dolomites
#3 Dolomites.
#4 City of Rocks.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:11pm PT
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It's kind of weird seeing all these areas not in California - the thread title is FAVORITE climbing venues, not places you visited and had some fun.
Nice places. It's a shame there's no decent climbing outside of California. You need to get out more.
Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Sorry I don't climb in red states : /
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:23pm PT
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Sorry I don't climb in red states : /
Or, apparently, anyplace outside a 50 mile radius.
Curt
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:46pm PT
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Those are my favorite the rest are not.
Sorry...
Arizona is cool, though. All jokes aside. Haven't been to Lemmon yet looks amazing (won't be in top 3 tho not by a mile).
Desert sandstone I don't really like that much, so Utah is out. And I'm fat, so much for sport climbing.
I guess nostalgia plays a big part into it? Who knows but I like my annoying little state :3
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:02pm PT
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I'm with ya, GD.
Don't let the Cali Haterz get ya down.
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Alpinist63
Mountain climber
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
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1. and 2. place go to Verdon and Elbsandstein ( sandstone towers close to Dresden )
3. place: many contenders......Yosemite ( for the place and the walls) , Tuolumne ( views and climbing) , JT , Red Rocks, Needles (CA) , Dolomites....
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:16pm PT
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Rocks State Park - Maryland
Carderock - Maryland
McKenzie Pond - Adirondacks
Short, scruffy, technique labs
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
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Those are my favorite the rest are not.
Sorry...
Arizona is cool, though. All jokes aside. Haven't been to Lemmon yet looks amazing (won't be in top 3 tho not by a mile).
Desert sandstone I don't really like that much, so Utah is out. And I'm fat, so much for sport climbing.
I guess nostalgia plays a big part into it? Who knows but I like my annoying little state :3
Fair enough. BTW, none of my all time favorite three places were in AZ either.
Curt
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:56pm PT
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hey FIVETHIRTY
mizugaki is the quintessential japanese climbing experience. people say ogawayama but mizugaki is way more interesting. its actually just over the back of ogawa but gets little attention from the masses (even tho yuji, steve house and world class boulderers head there).
its several areas arranged along ridge made of teetering granite spires. lots of 10 - 12 pitch stuff, steep, some big roofs. its japanese granite so perhaps more scoured and rounded off than sharp edged.
as yet mostly routes 5.12 and upwards, inc 5.14 stuff yuji puts up (multipitch 5.14...), but theres still hundreds of new route options. the usual bizarre mix of japanese hardware and lots of natural.
being there-wise: very quiet, clean water, relatively short access, heavily forested, no trash/rangers/paying to park, 2hrs from tokyo. anywhere else it would be heavily trafficked. of course the gooood stuff you wont find on a public forum.....
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Apr 20, 2016 - 12:57am PT
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Needles CA
TM
Tetons. Can't believe I'm the first to claim them
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bazo qop
Boulder climber
Lexington ky
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:20am PT
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Castle Hill basin...
The Tetons...
The Port Hills (Christchurch...)
Red River Gorge....
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:24am PT
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In reality I should just list the Valley three times but that would make me look pretty limited in climbing scope. So...
The Valley, I grew up here.
Jtree an outdoor climbing playground in a beautiful setting.
Fontainebleau, for the endless days of just pure fun.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Apr 20, 2016 - 06:12am PT
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Pinnacles (It is only for the chossen few)
Sonora Pass
Toulumne Meadows
Castle Rock State Park
Yosemite Zoo, not so much anymore.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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The Valley three times Marty.....yes on climbing and scenery, a resounding no on camping, people and ambience.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Jim that's my exact feeling about Indian Creek. It's been loved to death.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:39am PT
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keep the best close to your vest. splor'ers favor the yet undone
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:45am PT
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Jim seems as much focused on the scene or overall experience as the climbing. He has time on his hands to hang. I don't like the new Indian Creek nearly as much as when camping was at Newspaper Rock or dispersed below Bridger Jack. That was to me more congenial shall we say. I would rather now go to Mexican Mtn Road than the Creek and have a campsite for a small group without others around.
Good camping/climbing combos:
The Swell ;)
Moab BITD, now too many people and too restrictive on camping
The City about ideal, hot springs pizza and beer
Lover's Leap
Idlewild
Joshua Tree sometimes, and sometimes it's full of asses.
Vedauwoo
Custer State Park
Hueco Tanks BITD before the "ambience" changed
Bow Valley (someone mentioned above) outside Canmore
Turkey Rocks
Some of the Euro camping scenes are so nice you can overlook the crowds.
Arco, e.g., camping at lower right:
This is more my style:
But, this is where to look for me next:
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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1. Shuteye
2. Courtright
3. Bishop
Wish list.
Squamish
Cochise
Blue Mnts
Patagonia
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:14am PT
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Turkey Rock, Colorado
City of Rocks
Arapiles
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Hey Greg, The world is your oyster...
Jim B., I can't get the image of Devils Tower in the Pacific at outside Pacheco out of my mind. I dreamed about it last night. It would constitute the best climbing & surfing combo in the world. And then afternoon beers on the porch at Java Beach...
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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Wadi Rum
Cochise
Meteora
probably a tie between Cochise & El Potrero.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:02am PT
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Shelf Rd, beautiful camping and 1600 routes within a mile walk.
Black Canyon, beautiful camping on both sides of the rim and great blue collared routes in a spectacular setting.
Rio Grande Gorge near Taos, NM....great free camping and hundreds of mixed sport and trad routes in a beautiful canyon setting.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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My criteria included the camping in the Dolomites: My favorites are Albergo Silvana, (Wolkenstein); Pension Grohmann (St, Cristina); Hotel Bellaria (Cortina). Food, ambience, and approaches to the climbs entered in: many are only a few hundred feet, and mostly to the telephereique or chairlift. Excellent rock, plenty of routes, and always a nearby alternative to avoid crowded routes. Cheap wine, good food. Rest my case.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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OK, OK. Most favorite, meaning where I've spent the most time climbing & had the most fun with the best people?
City of Rocks despite some fellow Idaho folks that hang there.
SE Utah in general, despite this banner ad that just appeared on this thread.
And Leavenworth WA area, despite not having climbed there since 1983.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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The Valley three times Marty.....yes on climbing and scenery, a resounding no on camping, people and ambience.
I hear you Jim, but I actually haven't been to the Valley since 1994 so not up to speed on current conditions. I grew up in Modesto and made my first family trip to the Valley sometime in the early 60's, started climbing there at 15, would go up after school and do things like Royal Arches by headlamp and TR Generator Crack. Climbed NA wall on a swami and sling for leg loops. I have so many memories from the Valley over many years.
I have climbed many places all around the world, and most of them are beautiful, but for me Yosemite Valley is home.
Marty
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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[Yosemite Valley] has not changed appreciably since 1994, Marty. The Valley is the valley. Folks leave it... not the other way around.
FWIW I don't go there (nearly as) much anymore either.
I, too, don't go there as often as before, but then I started climbing when camping was free. There has been, however, one big change since 1994. The NPS closed the River campgrounds (Camps 7 and 15, for my generation) and has not replaced them or added any Valley camping capacity. As a result, there are more day visitors and fewer campers than there would otherwise be.
John
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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Courtright
The Balls
Cochise
lars
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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^^^^. YES! 10/10! Especially the 'ambience'.
Plus I bet Donini's never been to any of those!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:35am PT
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I think Barstow has the better meth scene.
I must respectfully disagree. Trona wins, hands down, on a per capita basis.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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The Punchbowl is exciting I must say, I've never had so many small edging holds break-off on one pitch. :-)
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:57am PT
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Jeremy Ross, you always make me laugh! I'm so sorry I can't make it to the Shuteye gig this year.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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I've been to New Jack City Reilly....I thought that I had stumbled onto the movie set for "Road Warrior."
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Bishop area (bishop to Rock Creek)
Red Rock or Red Rocks, as you prefer
City of Rocks
First two I'm usually in the Winnebago so the hang is great.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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Hercules No. 2 Quarry, Tenino WA
Because it's my front yard, my house is a very comfy bivy, everyone who climbs there is my friend, it's never crowded, and I only climb there when the weather is perfect. Like, in about two hours from now...
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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Canyon Tajo, Baja Mexico
Leavenworth Canyon areas, Washinton State. Love the town and all the other available activities.
Tahquitz/Suicide
Of corse, the Eastside!!!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:31pm PT
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
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I think we can consider ourselves lucky to have so many great spots
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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Very difficult to separate memory and nostalgia from the place. My first visit to Yosemite Valley was in 1956 at the age of eight. The moment of waking up and seeing that valley in that year is still burned into my mind. Crowds and rules aside it will always be my favorite place. To spend the month of May or October in the Valley was always, for me, as good as it could get, magical.
Haven't been in a while but I'll bet it's still easy to escape the crowds.
#2 Tahquitz Suicide
#3 Tetons = the view
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Apr 20, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Funny.No mention of Smith yet.
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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Apr 20, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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Capt. True, Smith is an awesome place!!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Smith, okay....just okay.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Josh
Yes, for a retired climber, I want to go to Josh this season and hike around and check out the geology.
Other wise:
Josh
Idyllwild
Tuolumne
East Side
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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Hard to decide, but I'd have to say...The Needles, Tuolumne, and Joshua Tree would be up there at the top of my list. There are many such places.
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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Donini, Smith ranks high on my list cause I climbed there as a total fledgling and met a really hot dude:-)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 05:25pm PT
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Understood Karen...Smith is as good as JT which is getting lot's of love here.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey Jim - Hope you are doing well. For me, in no particular order:
1. Indian Creek
2. Southern California Needles
3. Tuolumne
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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HaHaHa! Way BITD we left Seattle to go to Whitney and came down the east
side. We got to Smith Rocks, which neither of us had ever heard about and
I'm pretty sure were still virgin, and pulled over.
"Well, it looks pretty cool but there's no cracks and the rock looks like crap. Let's roll!"
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Apr 20, 2016 - 06:21pm PT
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In no particular order:
Needles (CA)
Anything in the high Sierra
Indian Creek is awesome, but there is this little spot not to far away...
oh, and JTree of course, even if I exceeded the limit of 3
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Apr 20, 2016 - 06:27pm PT
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For the IC fans...down there today...
Susan
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Kauait
Big Wall climber
salt lake city
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Apr 20, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
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Zion,Lcc and did I mention zion?! I would say the valley but I think it's been mentioned,and that's why I don't go there.. (often )
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Bad Fiducci
climber
Wilson, WY
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Apr 27, 2016 - 10:14am PT
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The Needles, Kern River; Red Rock Canyon; Grand Canyon of the Colorado. (Can I add one to grow on?) The Wind Rivers.
And do I really have to stop at 3? Loosen up, guy. How about the most favorite hundred.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 27, 2016 - 12:51pm PT
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Josh
Flagstaff Hinterlands
Mount Pennell
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boston
Trad climber
squamish bc
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Apr 28, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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Squamish.Yosemite in winter when no one is around except crazy climbers like me.The mount Slesse area.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Apr 28, 2016 - 08:27am PT
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Josh
The Needles
Whitehorse Ledge. That's right, I said it. I like the place so there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 28, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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TBC nailed it!
 so to speak
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 28, 2016 - 10:42am PT
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The Needles
Arapiles/Grampians
Indian Creek
Joshua Tree
Sorry, I had to put down 4.....
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Coach37
Social climber
Philly
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Apr 28, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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Roped -
Incredible Hulk
New River Gorge
Index
Boulders -
Hueco Tanks
Horse Pens 40
Font
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 28, 2016 - 11:36am PT
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Reilly said...
"Well, it looks pretty cool but there's no cracks and the rock looks like crap. Let's roll!"
Me, too....
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Apr 28, 2016 - 11:31pm PT
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Given the op's criteria one place stands out in my experiences (a definite West Coast bias) with a second that stands out from the throng of contenders for the third spot::
#1: J Tree...Something special about that place. A couple of trips each winter is never enough time there. Surreal desert surroundings with a dozen lifetimes of quality, and varied, potential routes (and exploring) to choose from. Only negative is the lack of long routes and, lately, finding campsites in the park unless you arrive mid week. (free camping on BLM land outside the park though) Every serious climber should have Joshua Tree on their must experience list. Most climbers want to camp at Hidden Valley campground, but don't miss the great camping and climbing at the lower elevation Indian Cove campground as well, especially if the winter weather has a cold snap.
2) Can't leave Yosemite off the list for the rock quality, impressiveness of the sheer magnitude of rock, and the sense of history that permeates the vibe. Summer in Toulumne, spring and fall in The Valley. Avoid the Valley from Memorial Day to Labor Day, when the throngs of tourists dilutes the climbing vibe and puts a significant damper on the experience.
3)To many contenders to pick just one. A couple of contenders, based solely on the climbing:
Castle Crags (way underrated) Cal Dome (great old school routes on beautiful granite), Lovers Leap (crowded, with limited camping unfortunately) but convenient and fun routes, Black Hills Needles. Haven't climbed in Zion, but surprised that it has not been mentioned more often?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 29, 2016 - 12:45am PT
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Southern sandstone in the band from Southern Illinois east through KY and TN
Gunks or Eldo - a tough choice
Back in Red Rock canyons
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 29, 2016 - 03:43am PT
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NH
Seneca
Red rocks
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:24am PT
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I didn't see much mention of Eldo, except once on the previous page. Oh yeah, it didn't make my list either, must be the Prancers.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Why are the Brazos off limits now, were the climbers disturbing the fishermen or
did the Center For Biological Obstructionism find a beleaguered bug there?
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Aug 24, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
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Seneca
Custer State Park
Bellefonte , because of my melancholy attitude towards my mis-spent youth.)
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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Aug 24, 2016 - 04:42pm PT
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Hm, got to go with Arapiles, COR and Turkey Rock.
... and Squamish.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:49pm PT
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I would add the Blue Mountains just west of Sydney - heavenly. Like alternating pitches of SoIll sandstone and Eldo.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Aug 25, 2016 - 03:59am PT
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Bugaboos
New River Gorge
Looking Glass
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 25, 2016 - 06:25am PT
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Man, most of you have a pretty short leash, or yer probation officers won't let you get a
passport. Not one mention of Kaisergebirge, barely a vote for Dolomites, no love for
Verdon, Olde Blighty gets panned, and the whole bloody country of Norge is totally off
yer radar? Seriously? Let's all get in line for E Butt of Middle! MOO!!!!!
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Aug 25, 2016 - 07:51am PT
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Word on the street is Donini has STILL yet to visit The Needles in CA......
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 29, 2018 - 08:01am PT
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Cantellya
City of Secrets
Hidden Valley
donini's never been to the Needles? Say it ain't so, Jim!
Reilly, all them places are overrated. [Like I'VE ever been to them!] :0)
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Aug 29, 2018 - 08:45am PT
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Eastern Sierra
Indian Creek
Tuolumne
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 29, 2018 - 09:00am PT
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Tuolumne, Red Rocks and Courtright Res.
West Coast Bias? Duh
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 29, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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1. where ever I am climbing
2. last place I climbed
3. the next new area I want to visit
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Aug 29, 2018 - 11:00am PT
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The Tetons
The Crestones
RNMP
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 29, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
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Secret Wingate canyon #1
Secret Wingate canyon #2
Secret Wingate canyon #3
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 29, 2018 - 02:12pm PT
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California
California
California
in that order.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Aug 29, 2018 - 02:23pm PT
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Great choices Inner City. Be bias! Hellyaz!
#1) Southern Yosemite
#2) Southern Sierra areas (The Needles, Dome Rock, The Domelands)
#3) Sequoia/Kings Canyon
Honorable mention: Red Rocks
WHAT?!?!? JIM HAS NEVER BEEN TO THE NEEDLES? #FAKENEWS
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Aug 29, 2018 - 02:28pm PT
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Smith Rock
Climbing: Amazing.
Camping: OK, lots of AirBNB's nearby.
Scenery: Excellent
Weather: Seasonally great
People: Friendly
Ambiance: Upbeat, a little aggro
Bishop Area
Climbing: Varied and great
Camping: Lots of awesome places free
Scenery: Amazing
Weather: Perfect, except the smoke season
People: Laid-back crushers
Ambiance: Mellow
El Petrero Chico
Climbing: Tons of killer multi-pitch and single pitch routes
Camping: Pay, but it's cheap
Scenery: Not the greatest
Weather: Perfect
People: Generally friendly
Ambiance: Easy-going.
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Aug 29, 2018 - 02:34pm PT
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Indian Creek
South Platte Area
Eldorado Canyon
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Todd Eastman
Social climber
Putney, VT
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Aug 29, 2018 - 04:10pm PT
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Carderock
Sehome Hill
Zuma Rock
😊
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Aug 30, 2018 - 12:02pm PT
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1. Yosemite/Tuolumne
2. Needles (Ca)
3. Red Rocks
Honorable Mention:
4. Pinnacles NP (Ca)
5. Looking Glass Rock (NC)
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Aug 30, 2018 - 12:28pm PT
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1) Pinnacles...lots of history & adventure in a uniquely beautiful place, usually not crowded.
2) SoYo...love that sun drenched golden rock & slinging those knobs. Again, where are all the people??
3) Absarokas...for an unusual twist. Yes it's that crappy volcanic rock, however, it's high on adventure & commitment, it's located in one of the wildest places left in the lower 48, you won't meet a soul (other than abundant wild life), and the place feels powerful. If grizzly encounters, gnarly river crossings, and long, remote, beautiful ridge traverses are your thing go...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 30, 2018 - 12:48pm PT
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1. Gogarth cause you can either drown or die on the turf exits.
2. City Of The Rocks cause we were the ONLY crankloons there and it was awesome.
3. Leavenworth cause we put the ‘barbarians’ into the Barbarian Village.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 30, 2018 - 02:53pm PT
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#1 Black Hills Devils included.
#2 COR because its dead easy for old farts ;) It is sorely lacking a decent swimming hole though.
#3. where ever I happen to be climbing :)
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 30, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
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I think more of you guys should cross the border and come up here.
Sasha Degulian has been crushing it in the Rockies this summer on multipitch 5.14
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Aug 30, 2018 - 06:11pm PT
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My 3 favorites right now;
El Cap
The Black
The Chief
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Aug 30, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
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Sierra East Side
Lover's Leap
Cochise Stronghold
Aeriq said:
Bishop Area
Climbing: Varied and great
Camping: Lots of awesome places free
Scenery: Amazing
Weather: Perfect, except the smoke season
People: Laid-back crushers
Ambiance: Mellow
Today was WAY smoke free! Here's hoping to a few more days like this.
BAd
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 30, 2018 - 07:47pm PT
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Tradman climbs!
Per your list of favorites, & your mention:
#2 COR because its dead easy for old farts ;) It is sorely lacking a decent swimming hole though.
I can refer you to both a hot & a cold swimming hole at COR, but you have to pay to access each, & worse yet keep your bathing suit on.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 30, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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Yosemite
Tuolomne
Bugaboos
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 31, 2018 - 02:53am PT
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fritz. the place with the swimming pool has cold and hot? yes we were on a budget but not ridiculously tight however it was also a point of pride to not pay for that kind of stuff. It adds up over 60 days.. we did eyeball the fishing pond in castle rock but had a ranger sniffing on our tail...
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Aug 31, 2018 - 06:35am PT
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I've been pondering this one for a while--just too many options, but I've finally settled on the following three:
Kalymnos for sport climbing--the quality of the climbing, the number of routes, the general climber-centric ambiance can't be beat.
The Grimsel Pass area in Switzerland for long but still relatively low-commitment climbs (I'm not of the 'do-or-die' school)--mostly trad when I was there, though more heavily bolted now I've heard. I'm actually thinking of the larger inter-connected Grimsel-Furka-Susten Passes area for just an incredible amount and variety of climbing in an area of great beauty.
Finally I've got to include my western Massachusetts home crags such as Farley and Rose Ledges and Mormon Hollow--well, because they are 'home' and really do offer much high quality climbing in small packages.
Runners up include the Wind Rivers, COR, Tuolumne, RRG, and ....
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 31, 2018 - 06:48am PT
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I hope the Hindus and Buddhists are right in that life is a series of cycles of birth and rebirth. That way I may get to visit all of these areas at some point.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Aug 31, 2018 - 07:41am PT
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Tradman climbs! Per your mention: we did eyeball the fishing pond in castle rock but had a ranger sniffing on our tail...
Yep! That's the cold-water pond I was thinking about. Is it posted "NO Swimming" now?
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Aug 31, 2018 - 08:20am PT
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SuperTopo
Climbing mag
Rock & Ice mag
Yosemite Valley
Tuolumne Meadows
Verdon Gorge
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