The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD

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bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 8, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
Pretty sure there are some notorius Sheep Buggerers in this photo. Lookin' Sketchy had *just* rolled into HVC with a box full of the new '86 JT guidebook. A huge bleating noise broke the morning silence as a woolen stampede nuzzled into the Purple Bible. A riot of wool flew into the air as pitched battles erupted in the flock over names and grades and stars and FA credits: (left to right we have Brooke Sandahl, Tim Wagner, Vogel, The Voice, Jocelyn, Epi, Schwietzer, Leavitt)


Meanwhile, over at Scumbag Central:


As Le Tarboostier relaxes and gloats, Job Well Done:

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 8, 2016 - 03:20pm PT
DEeeeEE: That looks like Semi Tough, not Panther Crack
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
Dr. F was correct
First to put up ropes on a route doesn't refer to Who put the first bolt in, it means that they were part of the Party that put the ropes up first.

I scoped the Super Dome the weekend or month before, maybe with the same FA crew
while out there, we prolly checked out at this beauty,
Hyperion Arch
Not sure if it was the 2nd or 3rd free ascent that I did in 1977

a couple years before the Super Dome FA
AKDOG

Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
May 8, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
One of those euros, maybe that really strong germanic alpinist guy ( Reinhard Karl?) with the round glasses who visited us (and rode an avalanche down San Jacinto) ... would ask, before someone was about to be lowered from a top rope: "How many meters?"

Largo was showing Reinhard Karl around Joshua Tree and took him to the Beaver for a top rope session. Mike, Mari, E, Jack Roberts, Reinhard’s wife, and a whole bunch of others were there. Mo was running laps and giving beta. Many of us were falling off. Reinhard had the belay set up with a munter hitch and when lowering off would ask, “How many meters? “ and then let out a ton of slack and drop you. Jack Roberts got a huge gobi on his hand from the V slot jam near the bottom and he still kept throwing himself at the climb ripping up his mitt, when He lower off Reinhard’s wife takes a look at his bloody hand declares, “ You’re a hard man Jack”.
Largo was giving running commentary on everyone’s attempts, I pitch right near the top; had one or two moves left. Largo yells up, “Oh man, you’re only an angstrom from the top”. (Had to go home to look up what an angstrom was) Typical fun at Joshua Tree, laughs all around.

Reinhard was the first German to climb Everest along with his other accomplishments. Unfortunately, He died in an Avalanche on Cho Oyu in 1982. RIP



Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
Even though the Schmutzfink was a couple years late to be labeled a Sheep Bugger, he gets honorary membership
he is a pure ass sheep buggerer if there was ever one
I don't even know his real name?, like the Manx, you only know them by the Fish created nickname

I hit a gold mine if you want to relive some ST glory days
link to mussy
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/174168/Mussy-NEB-Down-N-Dirty-Part-12

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
The following post made possible by Pam Roberts!!!

Some of you may know, I am now the custodian of Jack Roberts' entire collection of 100 issues of Mountain Magazine. Beginning with numero uno.

Imagine my delight when Pam produced the issues, not in boxes, but in a pristine lock box with six drawers, a lid with hasps, and a handle.


Everybody STAND UP and say: Pam Roberts, you are the bomb!

......................................................................

Randy Vogel's 1982 article from Mountain Magazine, issue number 83:







Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
Jack!!!


photo, care of Dane Burns
(... and presumably that photographer's website tag at the bottom of the photo, which I can't quite make out)



Alaska Jack:




Jack Roberts, ambassador, snappy dresser, humorist:


.........................................................

Excellent recollection by Mooney!
You're a hard man Jack
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
Thanks Cosmic
should I queue the 6666 for you?
Will that make you happy?

I like Schmutzfink better
no wonder that's the name I remember

I Goggled it already, and didn't get anything good to fluff with
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
Where are the sheep you promise?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 8, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
Got some Manx video coming up... Here is another story about the "hard man Jack" with commentary from the actual Jack...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=531774&msg=532934#msg532934
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 8, 2016 - 06:21pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
I didn't do sh#t
You LIE
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
Cosmic needs to step up his game
and be a honest player if he wants to fit in

I told him I would delete the 6666 if he asked, he said no
he likes the attention

I will have subtract a six now
back to 666 for you
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
This thread needs more Todd Gordon ... Man or Superman?


photo, Gordon collection
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
Todd Gordon is a perfect example of someone that stepped up his game, and is a honest player!!

He wins all the J. Tree the awards for being such a great person

Google has a great image collection that I will have to extract out some fluffy fun from

https://www.google.com/search?q=todd+gordon+climber&rlz=1T4TSNP_enUS649US649&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj1xriG98vMAhUF5CYKHS_yAbAQsAQIMw&biw=1222&bih=589
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 8, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
The Deviate picture in Randy's article is my brother Dave.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 8, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
Todd

with his girl friend Lynne

Sandstone nightmare

He's a lot better climber than most people realize,
here he is on some 5.12
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 8, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
Best multi-pitch crack routes in Josh:





Instead of hanging belays, you MUST walk and/or drive between pitches!
These linkups were really fun to execute.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
May 8, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
Hey Dave...was Marge on Anti-Jello Crack?

If so that was Vicki's hardest send...back when she climbed:D

(Edit: saw the Lonely Dancer post...looks correct)
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