The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD

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guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 3, 2016 - 12:19pm PT
Tar.... good Weeping Wall shot.

I wonder if anybody has any photos of the Mass Assaults we would do on Sunday afternoons, after a huge MEGA SESSION at the base of the WW.

Usually Mo would start up Revelations, trailing a rope unbelayed, at the first bolt someone else would tie in and start climbing while Mo would continue.... sometimes we would have Mo at the top with sombody just starting up... about 15 climbers all in all in a huge simul.

I know that little bit of nuttiness had to have been captured by someone.


And a Question for V ...... you had a dodge dart and you drove these idiots around, right? Did you go to school at La Verne?
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 3, 2016 - 12:31pm PT










L.A. Woman

Social climber
Pasadena, CA
May 3, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
Guyman,
Prolly wrong gal. Went to HS at SG, PCC where I met the buggers, then Cal Poly SLO for multiple degrees and credentials...professional student.
Lived with EE in Boulder after a summer in Yosemite ('80-81,'82?, it's fuzzy) where we had lots of folks over for parties and climbing (Aloha Todd G!), Morro Bay and SLO town. Ended up moving to the Big Island in 1990 to have a career as a school counselor. Lived in Yosemite for 3 summers, even while living in Boulder. Sold the Dart to a climber while living in SLO.
Tell me who you are, I do have some memory left...things before children are the most blurry ; ) E has been most helpful in filling in the holes.
Didn't really spend much time driving the buggers around. Just the one time I pulled out onto Topanga Canyon Blvd. when Russ let out an unusually loud bleating sound...completely distracting me. You bad Fishy. More Manx please. Awesome memories of the intersection table too, LOL.

PS. E and Tarbuster were 2 of the cutest guys out there ; )
Dave Katz pretty much looks the same...must be the margarita's!
Russ and Jeff, many thanks for the great pics. More pics Doug!!
Seattle-ite

Social climber
Seattle
May 3, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
Also joining us was a very large black man named Marcus, who I later beat out in an eating contest, including ribs, corn, potatoes and pie. Little 135 pound Bob Finn could also out-work Marcus in terms of sheer load carrying capacity, which was really something to watch. Marcus knew we were just a bunch of crazy white boys. Italic Text

Marcus Grear - he lived in Yosemite in the 70's and migrated to the East Side after that. He did road crew all up and down 395 - snow plow, etc. He eventually settled in to South Lake Tahoe. Now he lives in Washington State - but he plans on moving back down that way in the fall. He would get a kick out of reading this. He always enjoyed playing with blues bands in the Bishop area.

Nice stories on this thread....
Seattle-ite

Social climber
Seattle
May 3, 2016 - 02:02pm PT
[photo[photoid=455061]id=455060]
Seattle-ite

Social climber
Seattle
May 3, 2016 - 02:03pm PT
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 3, 2016 - 04:02pm PT
Hey, Seattle-ite, that's pretty cool that you know Marcus.
I have to think Chuck Cochran is still in touch with him as well.

Marcus is a good man.
Your post and pictures are much appreciated!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 3, 2016 - 04:29pm PT
Keesee said:
I wonder if anybody has any photos of the Mass Assaults we would do on Sunday afternoons, after a huge MEGA SESSION at the base of the WW
I remember you guys doing those alpine style ascents. Running belays ... five or six people on a rope, climbing various routes on the Weeping Wall. It was above my pay grade at the time.

And yes, IIRC, there is a picture of that action here on the forum, along with some good stories.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 3, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
Oh Now I remember Mike and Mari

I checked out my climbing notes from the 70s and there they were
I kept real notes back then, from the 80s on it was just a check mark in the guidebook or a FA name scribbled in the back

I met Mike at Humber Park one morning, summer of 76, both of us were looking for someone to climb with, Mari was off with Bob Camps in Tuolumne for a couple weeks.

I had a bigger rack, so we went to the big stone and did Super Pooper and some other classics, next day we did Suicide.
We met up the next weekend with Mari and did Valhalla.
(For DE, I led the 2nd P. in 77)

We did 100s of routes together over many years, the Nose 8/78.

There was no doubt that Mike became and was the best Southern Cal. local climber (Bacher not being a local) for 2 decades.
And Mari being the best female climber for the same period.

Visited them last Fall out in Josh, still awesome folks.


on 7/1/78
the notes say we did Duck Soup with Guyman!
Friend

climber
May 3, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
Craig, I neglected to reply earlier but I enjoyed your response to my question re JB's bouldering exploits. You recalled that he did a lot of that stuff solo on weekdays with no one there to see.... not quite the response I was fishing for, but gold nonetheless. Heady times and legendary personalities for sure. I was born too late.
Killer money shot of ML cruising the X too.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 3, 2016 - 08:27pm PT
BITD
We didn't like spotters,

and didn't have pads
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 3, 2016 - 08:31pm PT
Planet X shot for comparison purposes
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
May 3, 2016 - 08:36pm PT
Tarbuster...You look so trustworthy and honest in that portrait...
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 3, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
Trustworthy and Honest......Yes he is.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 3, 2016 - 09:56pm PT
Honest and trustworthy? Haha.
Only my hairdresser knows for sure.

 Arcadia High School, class of '78
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 3, 2016 - 10:32pm PT
Soon after the "Beer Ascent" of Crescent Arch I moved to Sacramento and went for a semester at American River College.

I climbed almost exclusively with Jeff Sewell's cousin Tom Smith.

Tom was a great partner and WAY psyched! We spent the year touring all of the cool areas available from Sacto. Tom was an expert in (majoring in grape harvesting) ....viniculture and has become a fixture in this world.

We went all over, Donner, Eagle Lake, The Leap, Calaveras Dome and all satellite formations, Phantom Pinnacles, S. Lake Tahoe, Cosumnes River Gorge........everywhere. I see from the records that I climbed with Nick Badyrka and a few others up there as well.

At one point we did a classic FA on the Leap. It was over to the right of the Bear's Reach and such..... We scoped the widest area on the Leap with no routes and saw a cool line with features from top to bottom. We started at bottom and did a 2-3 pitch route that we thought was great. The pro was a little sketchy, one or two bolts, 2 or 3 pitons and the rest clean. 5.9R.

We reported it to the locals and received no acknowledgement. The route never made the guide.

3: O Clock Road Block 5.9r

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 4, 2016 - 06:54am PT
Hey, thanks for that Dave!

Craig,
Tell us about Lynnie laybacking that vertical faux-granite light pole on the street where she grew up.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
May 4, 2016 - 07:23am PT
Wow, I just reread that article that appeared in Rolling Stone so many years ago.

It is so well written, one of the best pieces ever about climbing.

I will repost the link, originally posted by Pat Nay.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/244379/Valley-Boys-hitting-the-way-back-machine

Thanks for digging that up Roy.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 4, 2016 - 08:30am PT
Toe Tag Tom.... I think that was his nickname. Maybe because Tom Smith is a lot like John Doe?
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 4, 2016 - 08:38am PT
I missed the light pole lieback by just one unlucky weekend

She broke up with Keith Cunning and I was next in line,
but that Joshua Tree weekend I missed, the lieback was mastered by The Largo.

And there's no going back after you go Largo....

We're talking liebacks, right?


Our whole world revolved around 'weekends"
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