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Lurking Fear
Boulder climber
Bishop, California
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I also did it several times 25-30 years ago but that doesn't look like what I remember. I may have dementia by now, but I recall a flake to the left of a shallow corner, and then climbing up to a semi mantle move on the right side of the corner. Could be hallucinating but I remember as I stood up that i almost pitched backwards.
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WBraun
climber
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You don't need no photo.
Just go and climb it.
Then you'll see everything.
Photo is useless .....
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Werner, you forgot to use your banner word: stoopid photo is useless. Hope to run into you on the route someday. BTW, I think I can truly say I've seen everything only after I've done the route a gazillion times like you have done. I've already forgotten what most of the route is like just after a couple of days. Things find a way to all blend together!
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Oct 20, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I feel very obligated to make a clarification because the photo posted on the previous page was taken by me. While I believe nobody can blame their failure on beta (let alone old beta they read on the Internet), I feel responsible to point out that the beta shown in the photo is obsolete in today's condition (probably never popular anyway).
In a nutshell, to those who said, "I climbed it (eons ago) and don't remember anything like that," you might just be right.
What the photo showed was my ropegun at the time chose to go straight up the thin seam (to the left of the downward pointing expansion flake). The moves are a lot harder; however, there were two more pieces of fixed rusty wires in the seam to provide protection. Today (aka the day of my ascent 5 days ago), those wires (high up) were long gone and the seam was filled with vegetation. After I placed protection in the position of the green alien in that photo (3rd piece shown from bottom edge), I move right and up to the aforementioned flake. I nested two pieces at the bottom of the flake before committing to the face moves upward. As my partner puts it -- the moves are not hard, but you don't want to fall.
Anyway, I hope that sets the record straight for anyone who needs clarification.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Oct 20, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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If you are fairly decent at stemming like I was back then and can hang out for long periods of time it is possible to stem and clip gear in the aid seam. Years back the gear was good. I used to do fairly well at thin face since I spent a fair bit of time at the Pins.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Oct 22, 2017 - 08:53pm PT
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If you are fairly decent at stemming like I was back then and can hang out for long periods of time it is possible to stem and clip gear in the aid seam. Years back the gear was good. I used to do fairly well at thin face since I spent a fair bit of time at the Pins.
Oh, I believe it! You guys build crazy stemming stamina when you have to hold yourself in positions like this for hours on end doing ground up hand drilling at Pinnacles.
For the rest of us, yeah, I rest my case. I, for one, have weak stem muscles and shorter legs. I'll take the easier way out/up. Thanks for taking me up the cooler way all those years ago though.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 22, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
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Grambo managed to clip those heads. He had to use his teeth to unstring a bunch of tripled-up slings, and watching him made me really glad that it was him up there and not me.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2017 - 07:27am PT
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I was too terrified to take any pictures! At the end of a long day, that pitch really rattled me. Partly because of being tired, and partly from underestimating it.
I was so tired that my fingers were opening up off of the crimps, and all I could think about was the useless pro I had clipped, and the ledge that would snap both of my ankles after my gear ripped.
This is what I'm talking about! This is the stuff I always hear about that pitch so I thought it would be cool to see some photos of it. Thanks for sharing!
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Steelyphil
Trad climber
San Francisco, California
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Oct 13, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
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Here is the last pitch of Astroman, taken from the stance at the expanding flake, looking up at the 'go for it, and dont fall' section. This is the picture I always wanted to see before I went up there, and I thought I'd put it up here for others in that position. Its hard to tell but there are edges between there and the roof. So basically 2 lieback moves to a nice rail, high step, stand, repeat, done.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Oct 13, 2018 - 07:13pm PT
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At long last
Astroman
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!