Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 10, 2006 - 01:40am PT
|
Rumor has it that Dean Potter and Leo Holding did the long awaited and much coveted second free ascent of this Yosemite testpiece! Over twenty years have passed since the original free ascent of this jewel that Cosgrove declared - " the best route I've ever done ". Well done lads!!!
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 03:09am PT
|
Whoa!!! That's proud.
|
|
elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 07:38am PT
|
Good job Leo!
That's fierce.
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 09:28am PT
|
That is on the south side of Half Dome isn't it? What's it rated and how many pitches (and type of climbing)?
|
|
seamus mcshane
climber
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 09:44am PT
|
Patrick-
South Face of the Dome
Southern Belle is Grade V 5.12d R (14+/- pitches)
Hard cracks to start.12+, Runout slab/face to finish.11+.
Early 1990's?:Hank Caylor broke his ankle on a ledge fall higher up on the route. Alan Lester was Hank's partner and would not go for help for fear of pissing off SAR and looking like gumbies.
Hank and Alan had a memorable retreat, to say the least.
FA Malt Whipley and Dave Schultz 6/87
FFA Dave Schultz and Coz 1988
Bravo on the 2nd!!!
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 11:03am PT
|
Very proud.
Wonder if the bolts are still 1/4 inch and aging up there!
Good things pro seems optional for those guys
Peace
Karl
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 11:37am PT
|
I am surprised that it took so long for this news to get out. They confirmed the route as Burly but, we all knew that. It does still have the original bolts. Good job guys.
Ken
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 12:15pm PT
|
Slab Climbin' - Get's no respect
cept from me
Peace
karl
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
|
According to the topo the crux is 12d face...with a bolt close by...but then.....!?!?
Ken, I heard about this last week but didn't post thinkin you would confirm....you are the Valley correspondant, no?
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 03:22pm PT
|
Al, Wouldn't that be Werner? I am out of the loop. I heard about it last week too, probably from the same source as you.
Ken
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
|
Wow, that is big news. Almost 20 years since the FFA, and several strong parties have been turned back, trying to repeat it free.
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm#half
Yes, the topo shows the 5.12d next to a bolt (also hard 5.12 crack climbing lower down). The rating should really be split like: 5.12d / 5.11 X , and the guidebook is a little sloppy with the way they write the rating as 5.12d R.
Hank Caylor took a 60' ledge fall on p8 in 1994.
|
|
MarcoPervo
Trad climber
West Hollywood, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
|
Way to go Dean and Leo! We checked that thing out on my first trip to the Valley after reading about in Climbing mags new route updates. It looked WAY harder and more severe than the initial and modest 5.11/R AO rating it recieved.
It had to be among one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the world when it was free climbed in 88'. It's always struck me as one of the unheralded plum lines in Yosemite. Glad to see it's getting it's due.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Nov 10, 2006 - 08:11pm PT
|
It's been amazing to me that this area (Back of Half Dome) has not received more energy, creativity and attention than it has, in all these years since some of us started putting modern routes on it. And Southern Belle is one hell of a route. Hopefully we will hear how it was for Dean and Leo at some point. A TR from one of them would be incredibly significant. They certainly were the team to bag this second.
best PH
|
|
le_bruce
climber
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 01:55am PT
|
Not that I'll climb it, but so that I can gaze at it and wonder next time I'm going by there: more or less where on the face is the line? Somewhere in these pictures?
Edited to add, just for the hell of it, another two shots of one of the most beautiful pieces of rock out there:
(All taken during the floods in Spring '05, from a Cessna 210. May 24, you can see how much snow was yet to melt, and at the bottom right of the last one a very swollen river - forget its name just now.)
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 02:04am PT
|
le bruce, you have obviously climbed higher than I have in the Valley. Nice photos! I can see both of Schultz's routes. Walt said he had never been so scared in his life.
Ken
|
|
le_bruce
climber
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 02:39am PT
|
Is S. Belle left or right of the obvious waterstreak? Got to be left... then, left or right of obvious arcing dihedral?
Does anything go up the nasty, overhung looking section that is right of the waterstreak? Yikes...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 03:26am PT
|
Props to the second free team.
Once, upon a time, there was to be an ascent with Schultz, Walt and Bachar.
"F*#k that, I don't wanna be the dud with the studs,' said one of those guys. later, it was freed.
|
|
elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 08:31am PT
|
Man, look at the impact of the cables route!
I don't ever want to hear another word about visual impact from the NPS. You can see their route from a friggin' airplane...
|
|
Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 09:19am PT
|
Great pix Le_Bruce.
|
|
aldude
climber
Monument Manor
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2006 - 09:53am PT
|
Copy that!!!!
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 10:53am PT
|
le bruce, Karma diagonals up and right, through the waterstreak.
Ken
|
|
elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 12:37pm PT
|
Psssst, Leo was Dean's ropegun...
|
|
Jello
Social climber
No Ut
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
|
Really an inspired and inspiring climb, for the the first ascenders as well as for Dean and Leo and anyone who comes later.
|
|
rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
bumpity...
Amazing aerial photos up thread...
has there been a third repeat?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Doesn't Southern Belle proceed through that crescent arch in Le Bruce's second pic? The arch in the middle of the face?
|
|
Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
|
|
|
|
Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
|
|
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
Nice job, as usual, on the overlays!
That side of The Dome has some really bold stuff on it! Weird that we only hear about Southern Belle and Karma, anybody done the other routes lately? Way over my pay-grade, but are there second-ascents on the others?
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
Super Topo
Filling station for the imagination
Waste not your youth
For surely it, youth, was wasted on me,
That I regret not shuffling farther than I did
Seeing at least twice as much would still not be enough
Said to have only an hour to see Yosemite,
The rangers tell it over and over
Just sit down right here, and cry.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Jun 19, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
|
was gonna bump this for the heck of it
|
|
dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
|
|
|
May 26, 2018 - 11:06am PT
|
Bump! Any takers for the second ascent of Karma??
|
|
johntp
Trad climber
socal
|
|
|
May 26, 2018 - 05:33pm PT
|
Is karma the route with all the saw edged dikes?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 26, 2018 - 06:13pm PT
|
That has always been its reputation. Ken Yager following that committing route post surgery is nothing short of terrifyingly heroic. Hard core on both ends of the rope.
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
May 26, 2018 - 06:27pm PT
|
Cozzy thought Southern Belle was the boldest and (stupidest) thing he'd done.
Schultz' tale of spending an eternity hand drilling that one 1/4 bolt standing on nothing while looking at a horrific fall is part of the urban legend in the stunt rigging community.
Respect
PB
|
|
| Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!