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Messages 1 - 20 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2006 - 09:32am PT
Hope this works. If it does I will post more.If it doesn't tell me what I did wrong.

Ken

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 09:40am PT
Wow, it worked. Here are some others.

Ken










Thanks for the help.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 10:05am PT
I am not sure why two of the photos are so huge. Should I delete them?

Ken
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 26, 2006 - 10:08am PT
No...Really seeing detail on the sharp dike is the best part!
rockermike

Mountain climber
Berkeley
Jun 26, 2006 - 10:17am PT
So what are we looking at? is "Karma" the name of the route? Looks like south side of halfdome but I'm just guessing.
Nice photos anyway.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Jun 26, 2006 - 10:28am PT
Yes, that's the S. face of H.D. In some of the shots you can see the dihedral of Call Of The Wild which Peter Hann wrote about earlier this year.

Check out the old shots of Schultz and note the old style Boreal Fires he's wearing. As far as I know, this route is unrepeated.

Levy
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 26, 2006 - 11:06am PT
Ken bala gen,
Nice photos. I remember when you guys were doing that route.
By trial and error I have found that if I size my photos at 100 pixels per inch then make them 500 or 600 pixels wide or tall, whichever is longer. Then get the resolution down between 70KB to 100KB or even less before putting them into Photobucket.
This gives me good results.
Does this make any sense to you?

An example (450 X 600, 89KB). Tim Noonan.


I'm going out soloing before work. It's beautiful in Joshua Tree today!
yo

climber
I'm so over it
Jun 26, 2006 - 11:14am PT
So...if I was too chicken to walk across Thank God Ledge, should I get on this route or not?



What a route!
NinjaChimp

climber
Davis, CA
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:30pm PT
Ken those are great! I've always been intrigued by this route. Do you think it could go entirely free? Also, how much time did you spend on the route?

-Justin
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 12:38pm PT
Justin,

I do think it would go free. Less than 50 feet was aided. I am surpised that it hasn't been repeated yet. We spent about 9 days working on the route.

Ken
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:41pm PT
Really nice, Ken. Pretty big, but I'm with Mellissa on this one, they would have less impact, smaller. I like the detail.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 26, 2006 - 12:49pm PT
The web "resolves" photo's at 72 dpi. If you set your photo's to that they probably wouldn't be so large. They probably don't look that large to you during/after the scan.
Neat shots!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 12:54pm PT
I did the exact same thing with all the photo's and I don't know why two of them are so large. Photo Bucket supposedly down sizes them automatically.

Ken
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 26, 2006 - 01:10pm PT
Earlier I checked these out on dial-up. They took more than ten minutes to load. Now I'm on another computer with DSL and they loaded instantly.
Like nature said the computer is 72dpi. I go at 100, but if you want smaller sizes, you have to down size the photo.
Example: If your set at 100 pixels per inch and go 500 pixels on the longest side of the photo, your photo will be 5 inches by whatever.
If you go at 72 X 500, it will be a little bigger.
Does this help you or am I just insane?
klinefelter

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Jun 26, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
Jim Cambell is quite fond of that ascent. Sounded like alot of work.

Who took the photos?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
Just saw Jim recently. I took most of the photos.

Billy I will play around with it.

Ken
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jun 26, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
Thanks for the fantastic photos. I always wanted to know what the "walking the plank" area looked like up there. Karma is a great adventurous route, wow. Also, the dihedral in view to the right of Karma is not Call of the Wild as one of the posters opined here. Call of the Wild is just a little further to the right from the dihedral, out of view. Both are on the "Pearly Gates" formation though.

best PH
NinjaChimp

climber
Davis, CA
Jun 26, 2006 - 02:32pm PT
Ken, your response peaks my interest...why don't you think it has seen any repeats? Was particulary dangerous or somthing? I'm looking at the topo in the Reid guide (I'm assuming it is yours) and there certainly are some run-outs but that's par for the course.

Also, the topo shows two variations on the 4th pitch, one goes straight up following a dike, the second traverses right to a bolt ladder then rejoins the former. Which was your path? Do you know anything about the other?

Yours,

Justin
pyro

Trad climber
say's degreading things Mr dumbass
Jun 26, 2006 - 03:53pm PT
I attempted this route in 96'. I don't believe in it either.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
Justin,

The dyke is very sharp in places and we were concerned that the rope might cut. The bolts are all 1/4" and it is not protected well for the follower. If it had bigger bolts and a few more of them it would probably get done a lot. If you decide to go up there contact me and I will give you more details at least what I can remember.

We fixed 5 pitches and initially went the right hand way but were disappointed with the aid ladder. We worked on the route during Jim Campbell's weekends. Dave and I went up a day before we blasted to try and find a better way without aid, establishing the left variation. If the route does go completely free it will be the left variation.

Ken
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