BAFFIN BETA!

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Messages 41 - 52 of total 52 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Apr 2, 2016 - 01:34pm PT
Hi Gnome ofthe Diabase, Ian, and everyone else -
Steve Amter checking in.

Wow Ian, its been nearly 40 years, but I very much remember meeting three(?) climbers who had been climbing in the Weasel Valley for something like seven weeks when we finally made it to head of the fiord in 1978 - I guess that was you! And you are right, we (and a bunch of other teams) were stuck in Pangnirtung for ever waiting for the ice to clear enough to take a freighter canoe.

I even have a picture of you that I included in our a slide show I used to give on our Baffin adventures. (Didn't remember your name though...) I used it to illustrate how rugged conditions could be there, but how one could acclimate after a few weeks. In contrast to how absolutely fresh-faced and warmly dressed we appeared when we first arrived, I pointed to you guys as looking like three of the leanest, toughest, but most "french fried" individuals I had seen in a while. You weren't wearing much clothes and what you wearing was in tatters as I remember it. Yet, by the time we left for home, we looked pretty much the same condition.

I going to alert Ron (one of my Baffin partners that also met you.)

I'm jazzed to have found this thread.

Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Apr 2, 2016 - 03:55pm PT
Side note to Ghost:

I read (in your bear attack post) that you used to be a Park Ranger for Auyuittuq National Park. Cool! By any chance did you know the (first?) head ranger, Bob Redhead?

I remember him fondly. Among other reasons, when returned to Pang at the end of our second expedition (1979), he put us up in his house for a few days, and fed us gloriously. We had some very interesting conversations. Besides being great at his job, he was a really nice guy with a nice family.

I just found out he passed away in 2012, at age 70. For those who are interested, here's a link to his obituary. It sounds like he had a wonderful life.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/facts-and-arguments/robert-bob-redhead/article4092473/


Ian Parsons

climber
UK, England
Apr 2, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
Hi Steve!

Yes - it was a very long time ago. I was obviously wrong about the canoe; I'd got the idea that you had walked. But sitting around waiting must have been a trial, and full marks for sticking with it and getting something done in the end. To be honest Jim and I were somewhat taken aback to see the fjord still full of ice as we flew in on the afternoon of 7th July; we assumed it would have been long gone by then and that we'd simply go in by boat or canoe. It seems that 1978 was a bit of an anomaly, and it was pure luck that we were just in time to get a skidoo.

Two other teams came out at about the same time as us. Ken Nichols and Les Ellison were probably a couple of days ahead of us; you may have met them, although it sounds from Ken's account in the 1979 AAJ as if they got back to the fjord head before the sea became passable by boat so had to walk out. As I recall they'd run out of food and were heading for home with all speed! Jim and I had a more leisurely trek back to the fjord head in the occasional company of three guys from Colorado: Denny Hogan - route on Huntingdon, I think; Mike - with whom I later drove from Eldorado Springs to Yosemite and did Washington Column South Face, but whose second name I've unforgivably forgotten; and a third guy whose name, I think, was Pete. With our varied staggering rates we didn't necessarily move as a single group, so it's a guess which particular three you actually met. There was also a large team from Aberdeen in Scotland based at Summit Lake for the whole time that we were there; I think they left at the end of July so you may well have seen them as well. In fact Jim and I only had a total of three weeks out from Pang; a week on the approach and return and two weeks at Summit Lake - hence my suggestion that a delay of the sort that you suffered would have completely wrecked our trip.

Good to hear from you, and I think there are a bunch of people eager for any recollections that you can pass on.

Ian

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 2, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
I read (in your bear attack post) that you used to be a Park Ranger for Auyuittuq National Park. Cool! By any chance did you know the (first?) head ranger, Bob Redhead?

Ah, the wind blows out of the past...

I was never on the Auyittuq Park staff, but I did know Bob Redhead, and he did hire me to do some exploration there and write a sort-of guide to skiing in the park.

And I echo all your comments about what a great guy he was. We got to know him fairly well, and he and Robin would visit us when they were in Vancouver.

Sad to hear he's gone.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 6, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
hey there say, guys...wow, i missed this one too...

most likely, i skpped over, fast, due to the 'beta' knowing that i would not
have anything to post...

but--i went looking for stuff on mt asgard, here,
after seeing a film clipp on it...


say, ed!!! wow, i sure love and appreciate all this info here, on the baffin area...

thank you for thinking about everyone...


here is what i saw, due to a friend sharing stuff from england...




Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 6, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
Gumbyclimber:
Some of the best unclimbed rock for the motivated is up behind Thor.

The only time I went behind Thor was in a whiteout, but I did get some good pictures on another trip from up high and across the valley, and it should give you an idea of what gumbyclimber is talking about.

This is Mt. Bredablik, which is just North of Thor. (The first big shadow up on the glacier to the right is Thor) I think the rock he's talking about is the towers behind and just to the left of Bredablik.
Mt. Bredablik
Mt. Bredablik
Credit: Ghost

Here's a closer view. Bredablik in the foreground, and I think the towers to the left of it are what gumbyclimber was talking about -- Vitaly, book your flights now!!!
That really big one has your name on it Vitaly.
That really big one has your name on it Vitaly.
Credit: Ghost
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Apr 26, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
Looks hard, scary and cold. Bold.

https://vimeo.com/151439063
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 19, 2016 - 10:45pm PT
^ Wow! Really well done video from Cheyne Lempe.
originalpmac

Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
Aug 10, 2017 - 12:38pm PT
Anyone have any info on the Scott route on Asgard? Sounds dreamy
Ian Parsons

climber
UK, England
Aug 12, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
Anyone have any info on the Scott route on Asgard?

If you're planning a visit it's worth noting - if you haven't already - that the entire lower section of the route is several hundred feet to the left of where it is shown on the photo-topo in the 2008 guidebook; I'm guessing that the confusion arose as a result of identifying its position relative to the so-called "Death Gully", when in fact there are two separate features on that side of the mountain which bear this designation.
Rickster

Trad climber
Pine Bush,NY
Aug 16, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
Ian Parsons et al, Being on Baffin in '78 with Steve Amter and Ron Sacks, we did in fact find Ken Nichols.... walking out solo from Overlord. His partner arrived in Pang, also solo a few days ahead of him and flew out. The fiord had pretty much cleared by then, so we hopped a boat with one of the Inuit rangers in search of a lone climber hiking out. Some time later we caught sight of Ken laboring under a huge pack south bound for Pang. Mission complete, after a cozy night at Peyton's Place, he flew out the next morning.

Our 28 days on Baffin were spent mostly waiting in Pang for the fiord to completely clear of pack ice. It had started to break up upon our our arrival, but too broken up to snowmobile north to Overlord, but not enough to boat all the way in. Finally caught a break, caught another boat, and spent the remaining time hiking in, sitting out some more weather in the emergency hut across the river from Thor. After staring up at it for a few days, we went for the NW Buttress rising up left of the main face. Three days up, down and done, waited another bout of bad weather and hiked out.

We four Baffin Boys, just had a 39 year reunion and got spanked on Mt. Shasta a few weeks ago.
John Mac

Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
Aug 17, 2017 - 11:38am PT
The Haywire video posted above is just fricking amazing...

https://vimeo.com/151439063

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