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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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I asked a specific question, I don't need you or Braun to tell me what questions to ask or how I should think about climbing. Telling me that I'm a number climber is rude as f*#k and not answering the question I asked. Nothing constructive or helpful. I will not be apologizing. Maybe some people don't mind doing a 4 hour hike in the alpine to go climb something that they don't know that much about. I'm aware of my climbing limits related to grades and I have limited weekends to go climbing so the info I asked was directly related to my personal situation to maximize my possibility to sending the route. If Braun wants to talk sh#t then I'm sure he's a big enough boy to get some sh#t back. Also I don't really think Braun needs you to go around giving back up for sh#t that he started.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Thank you everyone besides Braun. Braun, you don't even know what kind of climber I am. Suck it.
Dude, I think you just told the "dalai lama of the valley" to suck it.
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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Hmm, I don't think the Dali lama would oppose me sticking up for myself. You think that because someone is a prolific climber that they get to talk sh#t to people? That's not how it works. Braun is a big enough boy to know that if he's rude that someone will be rude back.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Ojai keep chasing those numbers........Forget Werner.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Let's get this back on topic
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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I think the Dalai Lama would say, please don't leave bodies on the mountains, they are too important to us.
On that point, I believe Mr. Braun would agree.
Finally, I only say Dalai Lama of the Valley affectionately. I beleive Mr. Braun prefers sitting on the mountain tops, pointing out us crankloons.
namaste
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WBraun
climber
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I had no intention of being rude to you.
Years ago me Kauk came up with the idea to stop dealing with rating numbers and just plain groking the routes and getting a familiar feel in our minds eye.
Much less distracting junk in our minds then carrying around meaningless numbers in our heads for us.
A lot times I wouldn't even tell partners how hard a pitch would be before we started because ratings would weigh down a person.
They always did much better in that respect.
The unnecessary extra baggage was not carried and their minds became freer.
Good luck on your future adventures ....
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Friend
climber
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Werner Braun for the win.... again
Tom onsighting Positive Vibes, near the top, photo by me
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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Hey Werner. Thanks for the clarification. I understand that point of view you just stated. I would agree to that in the valley and especially in jTree where one can stay at the ground and make their assessment of the route while actually viewing it. Unfortunately PV is a mystery that you have to hike to so I can't just look at it and decide. Also, I'll be leading that route and I know my personal limits of what I can lead so I have questions based off of what I know about myself. I don't want to climb a route until I'm physically ready, that's just my personal preference. It's nice for someone like Ron Kaulk to say just go for it but you have to admit he was quite strong so not everyone is ready for that type of commitment. Also I want to clarify that I have absolutely no problem with you personally, just the comment you left me. It's all love but I always like to stick up for myself. It's either a bad character trait or a good one depending on how one looks at it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Re: Vitaliy
Thank goodness I'm not a purist! But are you getting defensive for no good reason? ;)
When I asked why, I didn't know OP had summitted before. But in general, I personally do not take rappel as a default option unless it's an established/standard/commonly accepted descent approach (like on Royal Arches or Serenity/Sons). There are many reasons:
1) there might be parties below, so your rappeling might cause them delay or grief
2) you sometimes have to carry one extra rope, which generates more work and slows you down, which may just lead you to a state when you have no better option than rappel (bail).
3) rappeling is accident prone
4) rope can get stuck
If you thought I group you with the purists, you misunderstood, Mei. As far as I remember, last weekend you went up to the Rostrum, started at the midway ledge, climbed several pitches of the reg. N face route to the base of the 7th (?), rapped, did the blind faith pitches and topped out. Or something like that. That indicates a) you are not a purist b) you do what you see fit, based on own psyche. I have talked to you in person more than once and have more respect for you as a person to tell you to suck it! :) I said whoever has problem with ME TRing some other pitches while rapelling, can. It is a personal choice to do so or not.
The OP suggested he does not care about reaching what people call the summit. I have no clue if he has been to the top or not. My suggestion is based on him not caring to go there. Maybe he will top out PV, get excited to go further and go. I don't care, hope he has a blast whatever he decides. It is up to him what to do in his free time on PV as it is up to you what to do when you climb the Rostrum. Namaste!
MEGABETA:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/07/incredible-hulk-101-tips-tricks-and-beta/comment-page-1/
beta about the rap route is included there.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Ha, you called me out on that one (last weekend)! It's EXACTLY what I had in mind when I wrote my reply admitting "I've done it occasionally, not for bailing but for more better climbing." It was my first time doing something like that (like going to the top of P7 of the Rostrum before coming down to do Blind Faith for more quality pitches). With six parties on the wall (on the last weekend before closure), it worked out well for pretty much everybody. We did have to rappel by one party, and boy, I felt bad about it even though they were cool about it. I know nobody would ever call me a purist and I'm far far from being one, but I still was glad that I was not in the group that you cursed. :)
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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no matter what is your excuses Mei, your reputation as "purist " is completely ruined now
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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But, I'm "basically famous now" and everybody knows what I look like from that realistic sketch.
Actually, come to think of it, OjaiClimber, forget about the Rostrum. It's closed anyway! Guess you'll just have to do OZ three times in a row. That sounds rad! Let me know if you need a partner for it. You may have to lead Pitch 2 as I remember it being extremely reachy for me last time, but who knows; maybe I've become more stretched out since then.
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Thanks everyone for all the info. I feel much more inclined to go do PV now with everyone's info. You also just helped me figure out that I only need to carry 1 70 meter rope for the rappel which will speed up my time and cut down 6 lbs from my pack for the hike in. I really really appreciate everyone coming together like that.
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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I already found it and slept under it when I was climbing Red Dihedral. The day we got there it started pouring just as we found the cave and it stayed bone dry while we watched a couple of guys rappel from the top of PV and they got soaked.
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okie
Trad climber
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Flew right over it yesterday. Still a lot of snow of course. "Too many questions..." Whatever, is there such a thing as too much STOKE? I don't think so!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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snow makes the approach go faster, and you can shoe ski the walk off! also the loose ridge pitches might have a few mini bergshrunds to squeeze though if you summit, very entertaining
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Can someone who has the experience fill in the blanks for me, or correct what I've got wrong here. Trying to get the pathways worked out. One can dream damnit!
1. You should be able to totally cruise Braille Book + HCR linkup to climb the NEB.
2. You should be able to totally cruise the NEB to climb the Steck-Sal.
3. You should be able to totally cruise the Steck Sal to climb the Lost Arrow Chimney.
4. You should be able to totally cruise the Lost Arrow Chimney to climb __.
5. You should be able to totally cruise ___ to climb the Rostrum. (New D? New D + Midterm + Leanie Meanie linkup?)
6. You should be able to totally cruise the Rostrum to climb . (A-Man sure but give me something other than A-Man)
7. You should be able to totally cruise Astroman to climb _.
8. You should be able to totally cruise __ to climb Mary's Tears to the Crucifix.
9. You should be able to totally cruise __ to climb the motherf*#king Freerider!
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