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The Alpine
climber
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Sep 20, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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I've never seen the beta Ron used in that vid. He skipped the mantle and just reached for some crimp.
Lynn on that thing is poetry in motion.
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Sep 20, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Sep 21, 2012 - 08:14am PT
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Didn't Paul Ryan climb midnight Lightning in flip flops?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Sep 21, 2012 - 08:31am PT
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yea tis true philo
only he stood on obama's shoulders
so he could reach clinton's out-stretched hand
who was already summitted
and with the help of these two men,
the little boy was elated.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 21, 2012 - 09:18am PT
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Blowing up Midnight lightning would only free those obsessed with a small boulder. A much better solution would be to dam the whole valley and free a much larger group obsessing over a few square miles of rock.
Won't work.
Worship of The Bolt has reached Dome of the Rock-proportions. You could nuke it off the earth and the faithful would still gather to worship the blasted earth where it once stood.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 09:36am PT
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Sincere: free of deceit.
From Latin, the word literally means "without wax"--sin cera, so PR is going to try it in waxed or un-waxed skis? Typical. No straight answer.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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I want one! Where can I get MY Blow-up Midnight LighteningŪ?
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Michelle
Trad climber
the f*#king peninsula.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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Dude, I want one too! Fyi, your box of Bieber videos will be going out today.
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Sep 21, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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Lets save these poor pathetic souls from themselves. Lets blow up Midnight lightning so they can see a world of life, wonder and love that awaits them beyond this boulder problem.
Would it be better if they stood around watching other people trying to climb it while complaining about it?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 21, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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Frankly speaking, this problem would likely be insignificant in any other location in the Camp. The fact it's so huge and dominates the place is the reason for its popularity.
And really close to the head!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2017 - 01:23am PT
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Steve Roper writing on bouldering in Camp 4
Ch. 7, "The Salamanders: 1961-1964"
"Two of Camp 4's boulders loomed above all the others. COLUMBIA BOULDER, the biggest, stood near the center of the camp, and it had no easy routes. We practiced on this thirty-foot-high giant constantly, making only one or two routes with consistency.
"One route, the Robbins' Pullup, especially intrigued us. Robbins had done the route back in the mid-fifties but had been unable to repeat it, and no one else had either. The fifteen foot problem overhung crazily on its lower part; a lieback/pinch-grip pullup was the only real hold to start out with, but it would obviously take super-human strength to make the move.
"One day in 1960 we all were standing around in the beautiful late-afternoon light, biding our time on the boulders before either cooking or heading for the lodge. A fellow named Harry Daley, and occasional partner of Robbins, strode over to the problem.
"We giggled behind his back, for Daley was hardly the strongest among us. He placed his hands up on the pinch-grip and tentatively plastered a foot on a microhold. So far, so good. We'd all gone this far. We smiled condescendingly. Then, incredibly, he pulled up and lunged for an edge far above. He gripped this and levitated upward. He'd made it! We stood with mouths open before bursting into a cheer."
And then the whole rock blew into fragments...
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 14, 2017 - 06:43am PT
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The Verm was supposed to attempt it last month. Does anyone know if he sent it?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 14, 2017 - 10:42am PT
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I haven't hug around Camp4 too much, but over the last decade with a few tens of times in the area, it's been empty. Maybe because I'm mostly around there in the winter?
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jan 14, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
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It prolly ain't to greasy bout now. And prolly has some pretty good lofty landings! But 3ft of snow brings it down to a 5:9🙄
VVVedit: well when it's 80deg out they are prolly 3 grades harder!? I jus meant now while it's freezing the rock might be stickier
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jstan
climber
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Jan 14, 2017 - 08:43pm PT
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All the greasy polished stuff over on Sunnyside Bench is two grades harder now than it was back in the 60's. You think M/L is going to be different?
Mind you I never tried M/L. I rather like having my tendons connected to something.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 14, 2017 - 10:22pm PT
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Tis the winter of our disconnected tendons.
2-way traffic on Northside back then.
They changed it the next year, I think.
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