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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Jan 16, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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I was there the night Jason put up "After Midnight" on that thing. What a cool guy. He lent us his monster pad during an afternoon rest. He even encouraged us to try and use his beta to finish it for the FA. My partner was one of the first V10 boulderers and Jay knew it. But it was more important to him that we give it a go than his FA. Truly chivalrous. I didnt even try it since Im not that strong and didnt reaaly want to get spanked. Vic and Jason took turns and shared beta. He let us use his pad to keep trying while he went to rest in his van for a couple hours. That night at Marys Pizza Shack, the guy insisted that all of us dirtbags have dinner with him and his supercool climber girlfriend. They were driving his zebra van. Jason got the route the next day. That guy is visionary. Must have been around 2008-9. THAT dude is original. Most folks on the lightning are posers, wannabees or sandbagger show offs. But Kheel just wanted to conquer the stone. His wild hair and radical personality are not even contrived. Hes got a flair for the artistic and dramatic in his blood. Yet a humble man when outside the realm of cameras. Bouldering has become so cliche these days. Most of the pebble restlers cant fly anyway. When Rangers wanna hassle someone, the boulderers get spanked. When will they realize that when youre roped up, you can do whatever you want in the valley and not get shakedown by the cheese?
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Jun 15, 2017 - 09:18pm PT
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https://vimeo.com/180518560
I know this is a vimeo link so I can't embed it, but it's really quite hilarious you should check it out.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 16, 2017 - 03:51am PT
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"It's really quite hilarious."
You've a gift for understatement, N.
My bet's he'll get down to 170 and does the thing.
-"Berms"
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Anyway, it's probably time to come clean (so to speak) about the whole lightning bolt thing, now that the statute of limitations has expired. Seems like an awful fuss about a bit of chalk, but whatever. The first time I was in Yosemite, in 1974, I slept right under what became Midnight Lightning. It was summer, so not much worry about the weather. The flake lying beneath it made it a nice cozy niche where I stashed my sleeping bag and pad during the day. They were a bit hard to find at night, in those pre-headlamp days, so I mooched a bit of white chalk and drew a zigzag line on the rock above, pointing to them. A year or two later I got to know JB - we played chess together at the lounge, and I guess I mentioned it to him. There was only a bit left of my chalk zigzag by then, but perhaps it stimulated an idea? Did I inadvertently help create a monster?
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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it's def your obligation to keep it fresh and white now then innit?
:-)
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Frankly speaking, this problem would likely be insignificant in any other location in the Camp.
Fully wrong. Midnight Lightning is a great boulder problem(I'm not even a true bouldering fan), but the moves and line would be considered classic regardless of the location. Just my 1 centavo..
Caylor
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 11, 2017 - 03:53pm PT
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Uber classic problem anywhere, I totally agree.
I was on hand when Skip Guerin did the first nonlocal (third person to do it) ascent and cheered him on. I remember Banny, Fig and me were around and that was about it. Fig chuckled and remarked that "Bachar is going to lose some sleep tonight."
Blowing that exit move was fairly serious business with no pads.
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gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
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Nov 11, 2017 - 09:12pm PT
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Old Man Lightning
R Restricted
SOME CONTENT MAY BE INAPPROPRIATE FOR SPORT CLIMBERS
LOL
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