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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Only met Doug once but it was on a street corner in Rio Gallegos in the winter of 1976-77. I was so young and he was already such a legend in my mind. Great guy and a legacy that will benefit all of us that love wild places. A toast to Doug and a life well lived. My condolences to Kris and all his close friends and family. RIP
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Just arrived in Santiago.... Coyhaique tomorrow and on to Lago General Carrera on Thursday. Weston Boyles (one of the kayakers) and his family have land on the lake a mile from our house.
I kayaked with Doug, Yvon and Rick Ridgeway 25 years ago in the extremely stormy Fiordo de las Montanas in the Chilean Archipelago. I shared a double Klepper with Doug, he was, thankfully, in the control position in the rear. I was, by far, the least qualified kayaker in the group and found the experience frightening. The three of them were excellent kayakers....that is why this is such a shock to me.
They were on the north side of Lago General Carrera going from Puerto Sanchez to Puerto Ibanez. Halfway between the two areas is the narrows, a place where the lake is only two miles wide and both shores have precipitous mountains rising several thousand feet. There is wind and waves here even whren it is dead calm on the western end and I have seen huge whitecaps in this area on many ocassions.
The numerous and vast National Parks and protected areas that he and Kris have established in Chile and Argentina will be a lasting legacy of monumental importance.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Don't have a lot to add, that doesn't seem trite. Maybe, ... I hope that when his story is told (probably for generations), people realize that he was a guy that worked to make a difference, and it happened.
Also, a kayak instructor, who is fairly well known in the kayaking community stated that in Alaska, people who put out, went knowing that they weren't going to capsize. I suppose that there are drysuits, and tight cockpit seals, but hypothermia is tough.
Another time, in training, I saw a video of a capsized ship. It was maybe less than 100 yards from another vessel that was participating in the rescue. A trainer said that people who swam to the vessel, without survival suits, had lost co-ordination and couldn't climb the rope ladders. Maybe those people weren't very fit, but then there were the Army Rangers who succumbed in 60 degree weather, after getting wet while testing for their credentials.
Again, too trite, but hope the stories help. Thanks for sharing. He sounds like he was a man, cut from too rare cloth.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jim,
"The numerous and vast National Parks and protected areas that he and Kris have established in Chile and Argentina will be a lasting legacy of monumental importance."
Well said!
Have fun down there, and stay safe.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Sad news. But, he has left a living legacy in the preservation of huge areas from development. We could all aspire to such...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Steve posted this on another thread...
Amazing run...and, what a legacy!
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Rieup
Trad climber
France
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Very sad. I saw him speak last March and it was very inspiring.
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Claw Fang
Ice climber
High Falls, New York
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When the first climber death occurred at the Gunks ~ 1959, a spontaneous Irish wake like gathering arose at nearby 'Charlies' - the Bavarian Inn. I believe Doug might have been there - definitely , Jim Andress, who got Doug started in climbing was instrumental in setting the tone. Myself, not being prone to classical funereal social mores , at the risk of seeming rude or insensitive will now lash out in grievous anger and just tell a story:
When bucking bales with myself, Raivo Puusemp , and Jim Geiser in ol' Jackson Hole - ~1962 - Doug was the only one with a car - a dim 2 seater sports car - so we all camped out in the 1 square block foundation pit for the future Jackson Mormon Temple and woke up early every morning, cooked breakfast, trundled over to nearby Hayes Trucking, then bucked bales for 10 hours - trundling down 3/4 mile long irrigated hay fields , stacking bales as the truck roared along at 25 mph - went to bed at night in our tents on the eastern edge of Jackson unable to open our hands because they were cramped up from clutching hay hooks all day, woke up unable to close and regrip our hands. Some nights we walked in to the malt shop/drugstore - while the rest of us deliriously tried to relax - Jim worked assiduously on his math notes while on summer leave from his MIT PhD pursuit.
When it came time to find a bathroom at our semi-urban 'campsite' it was a tough scene. We were at least a mile from any publicly available facilities - Doug, with geometrical certainty , crouched down in the middle of this large square block future basement and noticed that when crouched he , with his raised head, could only see to the level of the upper edge of the windows of the surrounding homes and thus determined that we could squat and none of the surrounding neighbors could see us nor would have any idea of what we might be doing.
Gleefully he then proclaimed our campsite in the midst of suburban Jackson homes "the World Ampitheater Bathroom"!!
Often we have kicked back and thought about what mysteries still lie in the basement foundation of that Mormon Temple !
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Praises to such an influential individual . . . a man of the heights, both physically and spiritually. Mr. Tompkins' exemplary life is a study in human potential. Thanks to Doug for showing us the extraordinary possibilities at our fingertips . . . if we choose to grasp them.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Haven't got internet yet on the high lonesome, but I heard on NPR.
Tough loss, a towering giant has fallen.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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First Decent Kern River 1981 Upper Run with Reg Lake and Royal Robbins
21 mile hike past Whitney to get to the put in,
First Decent Middle Fork San Joaquin 1980 -Devil's Postpile run with Reg and Royal
both those runs are probably the most radical in the Holbek/Stanley book,
full props
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Being somewhat younger than his contemporaries..This is the only way I ever knew this amazing person..other than TNF gear.
The classic film. (also noticed Chris Jones posted on this thread) My condolences to all those who knew Doug Tompkins personally.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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A life well lived... and with a lasting impact...
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Dec 10, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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Doug was an excellent skier. The year that the Nationals were held at Squaw Valley, he won the downhill. Back when I was at Squaw, he would sometimes call my roommate, Kim Schmitz to inquire about the suitability of conditions for "skiing fast".
The original North Face was on Columbus Street, next to the Condor, where San Francisco icon Carol Doda performed. Doug would sometimes have lunch with her and said that she was a very nice person and a good businessperson. Ms Doda, whom we lost only a month ago is immortalized in the climbing world by her eponymous formation, Doda Dome in Tuolumne.
For a while, the Columbus St North Face was managed by Art Gran, shawangunks legend. I would sometimes hitch over from Berkeley to chat with Art.
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Claw Fang
Ice climber
High Falls, New York
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Dec 10, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
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To expand upon Eric Beck's posting:
Doug was on the road to making the US Olympic Alpine Team - was training in France with the French Olympic Team - Jean-Claude Killy et al. He hurt his leg sufficiently to miss his opportunity and moved on to other endeavors.
Across the intersection from the North Face store in North Beach was a strip joint with a huge banner saying "Mama Gay Spiegelman - Topless Mother of Eight". One day when Dave Craft was hanging out there he reported that Don Whillans showed up. Upon observing that sign across the street Don loudly observed :
" Topless Mother of Eight -eh ??? She must have been pretty much bottomless most of the time."
The North Face expanded into the bikini market and encouraged all ladies to try them on. The only mirror available was outside the changing room and everyone was encouraged to come out and see how they looked and be admired by the store personnel and numerous hangers on. One memorable high point of this cultural activity was when Mimi Farina, Joan Baez' sister showed up and participated in this ritual.
The last time I saw Doug at a gathering at his brother Johnny's place in the Catskills maybe 10 years ago much effort was made at re-affirming such tales of yore.
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Dec 10, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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I too went over to the NF store from Berkeley. I bought my first pair of store-bought skis from Doug himself. Previously I had only owned army surplus skis and Northlands, both wooden and which broke. I bought a pair of Sohlers which Doug said were just what I needed for lift and tour skiing. I think they had an alu top sheet and were Head Standard copies.
Later, 1965, after riding the freights and hitching from Berkeley, I hiked alone up to Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos in a downpour carrying a huge pack, heavy the pitons and wet ropes. I didn't have the money to get one of those fancy new North Face tents and had only a plastic "tube tent" if you remember those. But I spied a dark hole beneath a huge boulder up above the swampy flat campground which was covered with wet tents and soaked climbers. A dismal scene indeed. I went up to the dark hole and I climbed into a roomy and dry cave and made myself at home. Soon up comes Yvon Chouinard, Doug and two Scottish climbers Jock Lang and Eric Rayson. I heard some grumbling about someone have gotten there first but they politely asked if they could join me in the cave. "Sure", I said. We had a fine visit stuck in that cave for days. the Scots, in particular, were really fun and humorous guys. During short breaks in the downpour we would go behind the cave and boulder on the big rock "roof" then quickly go back around and under it again as the downpour resumed. They went on to traverse the Howser Spires and I on to climb with one of the wet climbers from down below. At one point Yvon said, "look at all those poor wet folk down there who don't appreciate a fine cave". I never forgot that and always preferred that housing to a flapping, dripping tent, whether it be in the Bugaboos, Garnet Canyon or elsewhere. So, always take the cave.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Dec 10, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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My first teaching job was in 1985---Every, and I do mean every female student at my school was plastered with the word Esprit. Those national parks down south were purchased by teeny boppers!
Oh man- I just watched 180 degrees down south--this is too sad, but it does seem to me to be a life well lived.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 10, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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