Doug Tompkins TNF founder dies?

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SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 8, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
I saw a news alert that Doug Tompkins died in a kayaking accident in Patagonia.
Has this been confirmed? Very sad if accurate.

Susan
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 8, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
Damn, that's terrible.

Sea or whitewater paddling?

He sure left behind a legacy in Patagonia, or so it appeared in 180* South.

johntp

Trad climber
socal
Dec 8, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
Wow. RIP and condolences to family and friends.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 8, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
Angela and I are in Houston waiting for a flight to Santiago. It seems he died of hypothermia on Lago General Carrera where our house is We will be there in a couple of days. The conservation world just lost a towering figure.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:12pm PT
It appears it was neither sea nor whitewater. They were on the north shore of Lago General Carrera probably near the narrows when sudden winds came up and swamped them. I have seen huge waves in that area....the wind funnels betwen mountains on a few miles apart and can be ferocious.

Chris and Doug have been building a new national park just south of the lake. It will be a 1,000 sq. mile park named Patagonia National Park.

Lago General Carrera is in both Chile and Argentina and at 714 square miles is the second largest lake in South America. It is nearly 100 miles long and 2,000 ft. deep. The western end, where we are, is unusually sheltered from the wind by Patagonia standards. The further east you go the windier it gets.

As you can see the western end of the lake can often be a millpond, but in Patagonia the wind, known there as the "broom of god," is a constant threat.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
Tragic. He was an inspirational environmentalist.
Chris Jones

Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
It is hard to imagine that Doug Tompkins is gone. He was such a vital presence. His contributions to environmental causes, land purchases for national parks in Chile and Argentina, and advocacy for wild places is matched by few, if any, alive today.

Here is the Doug I well remember on the summit of Fitz Roy in 1968.

mikeyschaefer

climber
Sport-o-land
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:46pm PT
This is just awful news. really sad to hear this. We definitely lost of very important person in the world of conservation.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
Think of it Mikey...Doug is wholly responsible for Pumallin, 1,184 square miles of pristine wilderness now forever protected, and he and Kris have been instrumental in the creation of Patagonia National Park which is extraordinary in terms of wildlife variety.

And that's just Chile, he was also a monumental figure in preserving unique places in Argentina
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
Terrible news.
Condolences to all who knew him.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
Saw this a few hous ago in the local papers. RIP Doug Tompkins. These are the conservation projects in Argentina:

http://www.theconservationlandtrust.org/eng/projects_in_argentina.htm
kief

Trad climber
east side
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
Damn it. Such a towering elder of the tribe and such a loss. My heart goes out to Kris.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
Very sorry to hear this. He was a great inspiration to a lot of us. RIP Doug
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:16pm PT
A life well lived.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
He started off in the Gunks a bit before me, and is about half a year older than me.

According to Emol Nacional (http://www.emol.com/noticias/Nacional/2015/12/08/762917/A-los-71-anos-muere-Douglas-Tompkins-tras-accidente-en-kayak-en-Aysen.html); others with Doug included Yvon Chouinard and Rick Ridgeway.

"El accidente ocurrió cuando el empresario y otras cinco personas -identificadas como Yvon Chouinard (EE.UU.), Rick Ridgeway (EE.UU.), Jim Ellison (EE.UU.), Weston Boyles (EE.UU.) y Lorenzo Alvarez (México)"

Recently, (October 1, 2015) the Mohonk Preserve honored Doug and Kristine with the Long View Conservation Award at the Preserve's Second Annual New York City Benefit Gala (http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/nyc-benefit-gala);. In accepting the award, he said,

"The Shawangunks are a very special place to me and one decisive fork in the road took place right there. I never would have developed in this way without the early experience of climbing in the Gunks."

RIP Doug.


http://www.nytimes.com/2015/12/09/business/douglas-tompkins-72-north-face-founder-dies-in-kayaking-accident.html?_r=0

http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/doug-tompkins-co-founder-north-face-dies-kayaking-article-1.2459380

http://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/collection/doug-tompkins-conservationist-and-co-founder-of-north-face-dead-at-72-20151208

http://www.outsideonline.com/2041301/north-face-co-founder-doug-tompkins-dead

Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
Very sorry to see this. Yes, a true loss to all.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:47pm PT
Completely gutted. I knew Doug from 1964. Perhaps the worst loss we as climbers and outdoors people have experienced in a long long time. Excruciating.
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
Goddamnit! This is terrible news......I am so sad! Never knew him personally, but respected him so much. Have shown 180 degrees South to my students for many years now. God, I'm so sorry...........my heart goes out to his wife, his family. Really sorry.
Pam
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:08pm PT
Sad news indeed. Doug & Kris have done so much in Chile & Argentina to save wonderful places, that otherwise would be lost to the public of all countries, for our future enjoyment. Condolences to his wonderful wife Kris, & family & friends.

Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
I'd hazard a guess that Doug Tompkins has preserved more wild land than any other private individual in world history. The man had passion and vision, he knew what he wanted, and he knew how to make things happen. Huge loss. Condolences to Kris and his children.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
Very sad news. My condolences to his loved ones.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
I'd hazard a guess that Doug Tompkins has preserved more wild land than any other private individual in world history.

Doug and Kristine have been truly wonderful, but I'd guess John D. Rockefeller Jr. might be in the top position, especially if you view his influence as extending to his son Laurance. They have twenty national parks to their credit.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:34pm PT

My condolences to all of Doug's family and friends.
A tragic loss.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
so sorry to hear this. Hope his work and spirit will continue down in s. america.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
Sorry..
RIP Doug
couchmaster

climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:44pm PT


We're all going to checking out ...all too soon for many of us. But what a legacy Doug left. Wow, a life well lived indeed.
Damo

climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
Sad news, but a wonderful life, to be celebrated and appreciated.

Doug probably never got the credit he deserved for this route in Antarctica, the central couloir on the west face of Mt Shinn, climbed in 1985 with YC. Everyone else went off to bag Vinson but they turned left and went for something better.

In correspondence not so long ago it was clear that for Doug this was ancient history, barely worth noting. He'd since moved on to more important things, things that so many will benefit from for generations to come.


zBrown

Ice climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
Very sad and freakish. He apparently died from hypothermia after his craft overturned in 39 degree water.


Tompkins was on General Carrera Lake in Patagonia in southern Chile with a group of five others when his kayak flipped and he fell into the icy waters, the Aysen regional health service said in a statement. Local media reported that he was knocked over by a strong wave.

The service said he was admitted around 1:30 p.m. to the regional hospital in Coyhaique, some 1,140 miles (1,832 km) south of Santiago, but was pronounced dead of severe hypothermia hours later.

Tompkins' body temperature was 66 degrees Fahrenheit (19 degrees Celsius) after being taken out of the water, the statement said. All five of his companions were unharmed.


Read more at Reutershttp://www.reuters.com/article/us-people-dougtompkins-idUSKBN0TS08Z20151209#ZYHdhoml3kf3TtGE.99
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 8, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
More horrible news. He was a larger-than-life figure when I started climbing, and turned his money and his energy into a legacy for the world. Rest in peace, good sir!

John
mountain girl

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 8, 2015 - 08:17pm PT
So sorry to hear this. It is a huge loss. My thoughts go out to his family and friends.
Ingrid
oldtimer

climber
Concord,CA
Dec 8, 2015 - 08:34pm PT
Wow what a shock. I used to kayak with Doug and Royal Robbins in the late seventies and early eighties. Doug was always a daredevil that swam more nasty rapids than anyone else i ever saw. I remember one class five rapid on the trinity river that he ran got stuck in a hole at the top of a long nasty rapid and then was immediately flushed into a nearby eddy. what luck. That was Doug. He had a huge ball to brain ratio that was unmatched.

He always brought great wine on any trip we did and we always teased him because he would drive in VW in boating shoes and would always kayak using Italian racing shoes. the we dubbed him the guy who drives in boating shoes and boats in driving shoes.

I remember once while waiting for a shuttle at the Wards Ferry Bridge on the Tuolumne river and he told me he just fired his top salesman (Esprit time). i asked why? He said cause the guy made more money than Doug made. I said "Doug are you an idiot?" you are supposed to pay salespeople as much as they can make cause that means they are selling a lot. He said "it's the principle" that was Doug.

He was the most driven man i ever met. What a loss.

Garry
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Dec 8, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
This is so sad. Sorry to hear about your friend Jim and also to his friends and relatives. It sounds like he lived the dreams of most of us on here.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 8, 2015 - 09:14pm PT
Monumental Loss...

Doug was an inspiration to so many and did so much good with his own success that he really has few peers.

Sincere condolences to his family and community of friends and good stewards.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber
Will know soon
Dec 8, 2015 - 09:51pm PT
A legacy left that his family, friends and loved ones can be proud of. Prayers of consolation for the grief of his loss.
WBraun

climber
Dec 8, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
That North face store in North beach on Broadway where it all started was so cool.

Downstairs was the climbing museum I believe it was.

I still have vivid memories of the place.

RIP Doug .....

Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Dec 8, 2015 - 10:35pm PT
I still remember the old store too and Doug as a young man.

I think I first heard about his conservation activities from Yvon when he and Malinda were visiting Nepal.

I have been very fortunate to know people like Doug who really made a difference in our world.

Condolences to his family and friends.
velvet!

Trad climber
La Cochitaville
Dec 8, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
Doug was pivotal in helping me get my first expedition off the ground.

"Show up at 5 and I'll fly you in to this objective I want climbed."

We never got the weather window but he let us stay in his amazing guest house on his Vodudahue Ranch...


http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213152

Controversial, yes. But he definitely had an immense love for Patagonia and it's surrounding wilderness.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Dec 8, 2015 - 11:56pm PT
So sad to hear that one of the original four 'Fun Hogs' has passed.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 9, 2015 - 02:03am PT
In living his life to the very hilt,
Do you see all the good will he built?

RIP, Doug, and Thank You!!!!

http://www.outsideonline.com/2031696/21st-century-teddy-roosevelt

http://styleofsport.com/patagonia-at-40-the-legacy-collection/#


National Parks are the best expression of social equity that there is. It’s like paying our rent for living on the planet--Doug Tompkins
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Dec 9, 2015 - 04:23am PT
What a wonderful legacy the man left for the human race.
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Dec 9, 2015 - 04:45am PT
Only met Doug once but it was on a street corner in Rio Gallegos in the winter of 1976-77. I was so young and he was already such a legend in my mind. Great guy and a legacy that will benefit all of us that love wild places. A toast to Doug and a life well lived. My condolences to Kris and all his close friends and family. RIP
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Dec 9, 2015 - 05:20am PT
I thought this was an interesting read, which gave some good background information on both Doug and Yvon Chouinard's efforts in conservation
in Patagonia.

http://www.mensjournal.com/magazine/tom-brokaw-goes-to-patagonia-20131016
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 9, 2015 - 05:29am PT
Just arrived in Santiago.... Coyhaique tomorrow and on to Lago General Carrera on Thursday. Weston Boyles (one of the kayakers) and his family have land on the lake a mile from our house.
I kayaked with Doug, Yvon and Rick Ridgeway 25 years ago in the extremely stormy Fiordo de las Montanas in the Chilean Archipelago. I shared a double Klepper with Doug, he was, thankfully, in the control position in the rear. I was, by far, the least qualified kayaker in the group and found the experience frightening. The three of them were excellent kayakers....that is why this is such a shock to me.
They were on the north side of Lago General Carrera going from Puerto Sanchez to Puerto Ibanez. Halfway between the two areas is the narrows, a place where the lake is only two miles wide and both shores have precipitous mountains rising several thousand feet. There is wind and waves here even whren it is dead calm on the western end and I have seen huge whitecaps in this area on many ocassions.
The numerous and vast National Parks and protected areas that he and Kris have established in Chile and Argentina will be a lasting legacy of monumental importance.
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Dec 9, 2015 - 07:08am PT
Don't have a lot to add, that doesn't seem trite. Maybe, ... I hope that when his story is told (probably for generations), people realize that he was a guy that worked to make a difference, and it happened.

Also, a kayak instructor, who is fairly well known in the kayaking community stated that in Alaska, people who put out, went knowing that they weren't going to capsize. I suppose that there are drysuits, and tight cockpit seals, but hypothermia is tough.

Another time, in training, I saw a video of a capsized ship. It was maybe less than 100 yards from another vessel that was participating in the rescue. A trainer said that people who swam to the vessel, without survival suits, had lost co-ordination and couldn't climb the rope ladders. Maybe those people weren't very fit, but then there were the Army Rangers who succumbed in 60 degree weather, after getting wet while testing for their credentials.

Again, too trite, but hope the stories help. Thanks for sharing. He sounds like he was a man, cut from too rare cloth.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Dec 9, 2015 - 07:09am PT
Jim,

"The numerous and vast National Parks and protected areas that he and Kris have established in Chile and Argentina will be a lasting legacy of monumental importance."

Well said!

Have fun down there, and stay safe.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Dec 9, 2015 - 08:44am PT
Sad news. But, he has left a living legacy in the preservation of huge areas from development. We could all aspire to such...
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Dec 9, 2015 - 09:13am PT
https://news.vice.com/article/a-us-entrepreneur-who-spent-his-fortune-buying-up-land-in-patagonia-has-died?utm_source=vicenewsemail
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2015 - 10:21am PT
Steve posted this on another thread...


Amazing run...and, what a legacy!
Rieup

Trad climber
France
Dec 9, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
Very sad. I saw him speak last March and it was very inspiring.
Claw Fang

Ice climber
High Falls, New York
Dec 9, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
When the first climber death occurred at the Gunks ~ 1959, a spontaneous Irish wake like gathering arose at nearby 'Charlies' - the Bavarian Inn. I believe Doug might have been there - definitely , Jim Andress, who got Doug started in climbing was instrumental in setting the tone. Myself, not being prone to classical funereal social mores , at the risk of seeming rude or insensitive will now lash out in grievous anger and just tell a story:

When bucking bales with myself, Raivo Puusemp , and Jim Geiser in ol' Jackson Hole - ~1962 - Doug was the only one with a car - a dim 2 seater sports car - so we all camped out in the 1 square block foundation pit for the future Jackson Mormon Temple and woke up early every morning, cooked breakfast, trundled over to nearby Hayes Trucking, then bucked bales for 10 hours - trundling down 3/4 mile long irrigated hay fields , stacking bales as the truck roared along at 25 mph - went to bed at night in our tents on the eastern edge of Jackson unable to open our hands because they were cramped up from clutching hay hooks all day, woke up unable to close and regrip our hands. Some nights we walked in to the malt shop/drugstore - while the rest of us deliriously tried to relax - Jim worked assiduously on his math notes while on summer leave from his MIT PhD pursuit.
When it came time to find a bathroom at our semi-urban 'campsite' it was a tough scene. We were at least a mile from any publicly available facilities - Doug, with geometrical certainty , crouched down in the middle of this large square block future basement and noticed that when crouched he , with his raised head, could only see to the level of the upper edge of the windows of the surrounding homes and thus determined that we could squat and none of the surrounding neighbors could see us nor would have any idea of what we might be doing.
Gleefully he then proclaimed our campsite in the midst of suburban Jackson homes "the World Ampitheater Bathroom"!!



Often we have kicked back and thought about what mysteries still lie in the basement foundation of that Mormon Temple !

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 9, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
Praises to such an influential individual . . . a man of the heights, both physically and spiritually. Mr. Tompkins' exemplary life is a study in human potential. Thanks to Doug for showing us the extraordinary possibilities at our fingertips . . . if we choose to grasp them.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Dec 9, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
Haven't got internet yet on the high lonesome, but I heard on NPR.

Tough loss, a towering giant has fallen.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Dec 9, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
First Decent Kern River 1981 Upper Run with Reg Lake and Royal Robbins
21 mile hike past Whitney to get to the put in,

First Decent Middle Fork San Joaquin 1980 -Devil's Postpile run with Reg and Royal

both those runs are probably the most radical in the Holbek/Stanley book,

full props
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 9, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
Being somewhat younger than his contemporaries..This is the only way I ever knew this amazing person..other than TNF gear.

The classic film. (also noticed Chris Jones posted on this thread) My condolences to all those who knew Doug Tompkins personally.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 9, 2015 - 10:41pm PT

A life well lived... and with a lasting impact...
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Dec 10, 2015 - 11:15am PT
Doug was an excellent skier. The year that the Nationals were held at Squaw Valley, he won the downhill. Back when I was at Squaw, he would sometimes call my roommate, Kim Schmitz to inquire about the suitability of conditions for "skiing fast".

The original North Face was on Columbus Street, next to the Condor, where San Francisco icon Carol Doda performed. Doug would sometimes have lunch with her and said that she was a very nice person and a good businessperson. Ms Doda, whom we lost only a month ago is immortalized in the climbing world by her eponymous formation, Doda Dome in Tuolumne.

For a while, the Columbus St North Face was managed by Art Gran, shawangunks legend. I would sometimes hitch over from Berkeley to chat with Art.
Claw Fang

Ice climber
High Falls, New York
Dec 10, 2015 - 01:58pm PT
To expand upon Eric Beck's posting:

Doug was on the road to making the US Olympic Alpine Team - was training in France with the French Olympic Team - Jean-Claude Killy et al. He hurt his leg sufficiently to miss his opportunity and moved on to other endeavors.

Across the intersection from the North Face store in North Beach was a strip joint with a huge banner saying "Mama Gay Spiegelman - Topless Mother of Eight". One day when Dave Craft was hanging out there he reported that Don Whillans showed up. Upon observing that sign across the street Don loudly observed :
" Topless Mother of Eight -eh ??? She must have been pretty much bottomless most of the time."

The North Face expanded into the bikini market and encouraged all ladies to try them on. The only mirror available was outside the changing room and everyone was encouraged to come out and see how they looked and be admired by the store personnel and numerous hangers on. One memorable high point of this cultural activity was when Mimi Farina, Joan Baez' sister showed up and participated in this ritual.

The last time I saw Doug at a gathering at his brother Johnny's place in the Catskills maybe 10 years ago much effort was made at re-affirming such tales of yore.

storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Dec 10, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
I too went over to the NF store from Berkeley. I bought my first pair of store-bought skis from Doug himself. Previously I had only owned army surplus skis and Northlands, both wooden and which broke. I bought a pair of Sohlers which Doug said were just what I needed for lift and tour skiing. I think they had an alu top sheet and were Head Standard copies.

Later, 1965, after riding the freights and hitching from Berkeley, I hiked alone up to Boulder Camp in the Bugaboos in a downpour carrying a huge pack, heavy the pitons and wet ropes. I didn't have the money to get one of those fancy new North Face tents and had only a plastic "tube tent" if you remember those. But I spied a dark hole beneath a huge boulder up above the swampy flat campground which was covered with wet tents and soaked climbers. A dismal scene indeed. I went up to the dark hole and I climbed into a roomy and dry cave and made myself at home. Soon up comes Yvon Chouinard, Doug and two Scottish climbers Jock Lang and Eric Rayson. I heard some grumbling about someone have gotten there first but they politely asked if they could join me in the cave. "Sure", I said. We had a fine visit stuck in that cave for days. the Scots, in particular, were really fun and humorous guys. During short breaks in the downpour we would go behind the cave and boulder on the big rock "roof" then quickly go back around and under it again as the downpour resumed. They went on to traverse the Howser Spires and I on to climb with one of the wet climbers from down below. At one point Yvon said, "look at all those poor wet folk down there who don't appreciate a fine cave". I never forgot that and always preferred that housing to a flapping, dripping tent, whether it be in the Bugaboos, Garnet Canyon or elsewhere. So, always take the cave.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 10, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
My first teaching job was in 1985---Every, and I do mean every female student at my school was plastered with the word Esprit. Those national parks down south were purchased by teeny boppers!
Oh man- I just watched 180 degrees down south--this is too sad, but it does seem to me to be a life well lived.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Dec 10, 2015 - 04:57pm PT

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 11, 2015 - 08:29am PT
The most detail on the event, the people involved, and their rescue efforts is in Alpinist: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-doug-tompkins-dies-in-kayaking-accident-in-patagonia.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Dec 11, 2015 - 11:18am PT
There was a nice piece on pbs about him and his wife last night.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 11, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
Watching 180deg south....It's on Netflix...go watch it if you have not.

Damn... we really lost one of the good ones way too soon... :(

I hope his friends who were there are coming though ok. Sounds like a perfect day with friends in the place they loved gone terribly wrong..So rough.
Chris Jones

Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
Dec 11, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
Doug Tompkins was a natural athlete of the first rank. He had the ability to succeed in almost any sport - and did much of this as essentially a weekend warrior. I remember seeing him in a downhill race at Squaw Valley. Although he had been a very serious and nationally ranked ski racer, at that time he drove up from San Francisco when he could. He was up against any number of locals skiers who were at it all season. He won the race, grinning from ear to ear at the finish. It was fitting that downhill was his speciality; he had the stomach for balls-out risk.

As a climber he was very impressive - the sort of person who could have done almost anything in that era. When in Canada in 1967, driving along the always-exciting Banff-Jasper Highway, Chouinard pointed out the ominous north Face of Mt. Temple, recounting that he and Doug had made a tentative to above the “Dolphin” before the Greenwood, Locke first ascent in 1966. Not for the faint of heart. This attempt was likely in 1965, the same year he, Chouinard, Eric Rayson and Jock Lang made the first ascent of the south face of the north Howser tower, continuing on to complete the first traverse of the Bugaboos’ Howser Spires.

In 1968 he was running his North Face business, so it was a bit of a surprise for we Camp 4 know-it-alls to learn he and Lito Tejada-Flores were about to launch up the Salathe Wall. A bit of a shock to our complacency actually. As I recall they trained by running in San Francisco. Then the most-sought-after big wall, the Salathe had had just 5 ascents, and all by Yosemite stars. Yet up they went, retreating when their haul bag failed. Not long after Doug returned with Chouinard and TM Herbert and shared the 6th ascent with them.

Speaking of the North Face store in North Beach, I purchased some snappy red Fischer Alu skis from Doug. Boy were they pretty. They were to replace my first pair of black Head skis which Royal Robbins had persuaded me I needed for my forthcoming move to California when we were both knocking around in Chamonix. He would be ski instructing at John Harlin's International School of Mountaineering that winter in Switzerland, and would not need skis presently at his home base in Modesto. Taking the skis for their first outing at Mammoth Mountain, with the name Royal Robbins etched on, I kept wondering if those riding the lifts would turn to me and exclaim: “Royal Robbins, wow; El Capitan, man …” Never happened. Unlike in Europe, climbing and climbers were totally unknown.

On the Funhogs 1968 trip down thru South America, Doug was the driving force. One of his motivating phrases was: “let’s kick some ass.” If Lito was not behind the camera, he might yell: “Hey, Fellini, get some footage.” He had put quite a bit of money into a projected film, and was not about to give up. He pulled rabbits out of the bag at every turn. If taking a US vehicle into South American countries one had to post a bond, which we had done. We had a very impressive book with stamped documents which we were to present at the various borders. Except we had no such stamped document for Argentina, our ultimate destination, where the bond was a then-astronomical $10,000. I recall accompanying Doug to a tiny shop in Santiago where they made rubber stamps. “Valid for Argentina” our new stamp said, and he carefully used it and some others. This was all very good in Santiago. But the rainy night we slowly drew up alongside the lonely guard post on the Argentine border my heart was beginning to race. They would surely see through it, and their weapons casually slung over their shoulders and glistening in the rain were menacing. But Doug had a bit of banter with the guard who then waved us on. Did we crank up the music as we drove away, possibly Dylan with “Like a Rolling Stone!”

In the early 1970s Doug and his wife Susie were creating the Esprit clothing brand. This was just a rocket taking off. I was then doing research at the Sierra Club library in San Francisco and stayed with Doug from time to time. He would run me downtown on the back of his motor bike, which was a stimulating way to start the day. Later, when his business moved to an impressive complex on Mariposa Street, my wife and daughter would be delighted to get to private sales held there. Doug would be typically on the phone and busy as heck. His ability to run such a business, yet still carve out time for trips all over the world, (which is a trait shared with Chouinard), is remarkable. Others have posted here about his extraordinary accomplishments in conservation. His life and work is an inspiration.





#310

Social climber
Telluride, CO
Dec 12, 2015 - 08:10am PT
Want to bump Doug back to the first page. He did change the world. I want more Doug stories - especially the one about Doug and Jack Miller flying back from Santiago with a secret passenger and outwitting the Chilean Air Force.

RIP Doug!
kirkadirka

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Dec 14, 2015 - 06:50am PT
Never had the chance to meet him in person, but I have been to several of his parks here in Chile and he had a major impact on my view of the world. This is such a huge loss for Chile and the environmental movments, but his seed is surely planted and his ideas and influence will live on. What a life, RIP.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 14, 2015 - 07:47am PT
Great to read stories by his friends. I muchly appreciate you folks posting up.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 14, 2015 - 07:51am PT
Doug was laid to rest on Saturday in Valle Chacabuco, the centerpiece of what will soon be Patagonia National Park.......a fitting memorial to a great conservationist.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Dec 14, 2015 - 11:06am PT
Thanks Jim. Must have been a somber moment for a life well lived.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 14, 2015 - 11:37am PT
Valle Chacabuco. Makes sense to me. A beautiful place to rest.





Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 14, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
An eternal repose in paradise...and well deserved.
bpope

climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Dec 15, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
To Those Who Loved Doug
by Rick Ridgeway

Posted to The Cleanest Line (Patagonia blog)

http://www.thecleanestline.com/2015/12/to-those-who-loved-doug.html

A very thoughtful memorial, with some details of the accident...

In the days that have followed—days that seem like years—“survival” has been a theme that every one of us has raised independent of the other. Specifically, it is this profound realization that Douglas Rainsford Tompkins is surviving, more strongly than ever, inside us. He is pushing on us already, reminding us that “no detail is too small,” inspiring us “to commit and then figure it out,” helping us realize that the first commitment is to beauty because out of beauty comes love, and only with love can we hope to approach his inextinguishable tenacity to protect what is beautiful, what is wild.
bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
Dec 16, 2015 - 08:37am PT
Beautiful memories here. Thanks bpope for the Patagonia blog link to Ridgeway's post. Powerfully written.
Chris Jones

Social climber
Glen Ellen, CA
Dec 16, 2015 - 09:58am PT
Thanks to Rick Ridgeway for the heartfelt tribute on the Patagonia website linked-to above.

This photo used by permission of Malinda Chouinard, who wrote: "Peaceful now."

Russ

Trad climber
Ventura, CA
Dec 17, 2015 - 09:01am PT
Such a sad loss, but he went out doing what he loved and lived enough for 3 lifetimes. RIP Doug.
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
Dec 17, 2015 - 10:17am PT
Thank you Doug Tompkins for helping us in trying to take care of our planet. Hope your legacy lives long and prospers. I would like to get back down and visit one or more of the places you have protected again some day. The short time I spent at Pumalin was not enough.
Erik
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Dec 17, 2015 - 10:19am PT
He went out with his boots on. Not wasting away in a hospital bed.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Dec 17, 2015 - 10:37am PT
[url=http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/spencerlennard/media/Tribute%20to%20Doug%20Tompkins_2.jpg.html]{{img}}h~~p://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u376/spencerlennard/Tribute%20to%20Doug%20Tompkins_2.jpg[/img][/url]


thanks to Doug (and his Foundation for Deep Ecology) the light was shined brightly on several timely environmental issues
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Dec 17, 2015 - 11:01am PT
What an incredible legacy! Thank you, Doug - I wish more of us could do so much good.
And my deepest sympathy to companions who tried so hard to save him. Sometimes the odds are just too great and the time just too sort.
Bruce Nyberg

Trad climber
Sheridan, Wyoming
Dec 17, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
A legend lost, a legacy for all to follow.
cornel

climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Dec 18, 2015 - 08:06pm PT
I had this really cool poster of Doug soloing Hells Lum in full conditions,1972 I think, lost it somehow...he crushed it at the highest levels in his life, especially as an environmental philanthropist, wow what a legacy...to leave..happy he went out quick though, in the heart of Paradise...
Yeti

Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
Dec 20, 2015 - 11:33am PT
Check these:
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/climbers-we-lost-in-2015?page=5
http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/2015/12/10/remembering-the-authentic-passionate-life-of-doug-tompkins/
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dec 20, 2015 - 11:47am PT
And the most comprehensive account of the accident and rescue efforts at http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2015/12/151213-doug-tompkins-chile-north-face-rick-ridgeway-patagonia-yvon-chouinard-death-general-carrera-lake/
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Dec 4, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
Does anyone have contact information for his brother John Tompkins who used to climb with me in the Tetons in the summer when I first got to know Doug?
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