Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 29, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
|
Final Exam--all time crack but quite a hike.
Is Stoner's Highway really "semi-obscure?"
JL
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Oct 30, 2006 - 01:06am PT
|
Hahahaha
Can you believe it. There is a "entrance exam" and a "final exam".
And then there is "extra credit". You get extra credit if you go do that?
|
|
Wild Bill
climber
Ca
|
|
|
Oct 31, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
|
For south-facing, how about Serenity Crack and it's continuation, Sons of Yesterday? Sorta the opposite of OW, I guess. You do have to rap off Sons of Yesterday, unless you really love the gulley. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR BELAY LOOP, EH?
For just fooling around on one pitch stuff, check out New Diversions (the route, and then the other stuff on the ND wall). Bring a few long slings for SLINGING CHICKENHEADS! Don't hear that too often in the Valley.
For short cracks in the sun, check out the Little Wing area near Ribbon Falls amphitheater. A bit of an ankle-twisting walk but the rock is a bit different from other Valley granite as I recall.
Have fun, I'm jealous but still kinds queasy from Skinner's flight.
|
|
DHike
climber
|
|
Some great route suggestions but most of y'all missed one of the 'best semi-obscure' multi-pitch 10's. But I'm going to stay 'quiet' on that one so as to keep it that way.
|
|
Wild Bill
climber
Ca
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
|
Summerprophet - what route did you end up climbing? Was it obscure enough that you didn't have to toss some gumbies out of your way?
|
|
G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2006 - 07:03pm PT
|
By the way, Windfall continues for 6 more pitches via Wind Chill to the rim. nothing harder than midling 5.10.
Greg
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2006 - 08:42pm PT
|
"I've always wondered about the Salathe Rt on the west side of Half Dome -- go do it and get back to me."
Good route. A little spicy for the likes of me, in places. Definitely take some Ball Nutz and some offset brass for the thin pitches. Screamers provide peace of mind as well.
Brutus
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2006 - 09:18pm PT
|
Spooky Tooth on Lower. Scare the crap out of you.
JL
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2006 - 12:37am PT
|
Just do the ones you haven't done yet that sound interesting. If you are asking that question it won't matter what you do, it is all fun.
Ken
p.s. Make it fun!
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 09:40am PT
|
Great list. I didn't realize that Brutus did so many obscure lines in the Valley - thought he was more of a far afield obscurist.
If you're not as opposed to the wide stuff as the OP, add in Hawkman's Escape (link Ab Free Center from below), Bridalveil East w the Midget Chimney variation, and the Chockstone Chimney (a 5.8 but you'll forget all about grades on this one).
Another vote for both routes on the Tower of the Cosmic Winds. They could use the traffic.
Beyond Lunacy, Ablegabel's 7 or 8 pitch extension of Lunatic Fringe, is worthy and belongs on this list. Same goes for the less intimidating Angry Natives.
Thought that the EB of Lower Cathedral was better than its cousins on Middle and El Cap, though I'm not sure many would agree with me. NEB reigns over all of the east'ish buttresses that I've done, even with the crowds. But I haven't done HD's NE Buttress/Face yet. Want to.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 10:06am PT
|
I haven't done it but I've dreamed about and spied from up close the Ramblin' Rose. At the scary shaking pillar on Hawkman's Escape, head off to the left.
|
|
Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 11:50am PT
|
Was Bridalveil East mentioned! Crucifix!
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
|
Trust me if the natives are out they are very intimidating! I've never the language that came out of Ablegable's mouth on that before or after.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 12:48pm PT
|
"I've always wondered about the Salathe Rt on the west side of Half Dome -- go do it and get back to me."
Good route. A little spicy for the likes of me, in places. Definitely take some Ball Nutz and some offset brass for the thin pitches. Screamers provide peace of mind as well.
The route is almost as low-angle as Snake Dike, but, as stated above, the crux pitches have some thin spots. Just when I thought the difficulties were over (and they were, at least as far as protecting was concerned), that little roof gave me much more trouble than it should have.
East Arete of Split Pinnacle is a nice climb, mostly non-continuous 5.7 and 5.8, but the final lieback is a whole 'nother story, and the chimney is just a chimney, not a squeeze.
I'd been waiting until I was in my 60's to do YPB, and now that I'm in my 60's . . . let me know how it is!
John
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 12:58pm PT
|
+1 for Split Pinnacle
|
|
skitch
climber
East of Heaven
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2015 - 01:34pm PT
|
Apron Jam (5.9+++) into Mr. Natural (5.10D)
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2019 - 08:02pm PT
|
hilarious bump:
OP asked 15 yeas ago
I am looking for something 5.10 or easier, without offwidths or body chimneys (unless incredibly easy).
get list of climbs he mostly does not want to climb and never get back. he left forum, but list of chimney, ow and 5.11 hard climbs continue to pump on the tread
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2019 - 07:56am PT
|
Truth is, once you get past the acclaimed classics, there is a scarcity of good climbiing in Yosemite...cast your net elsewhere.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2019 - 09:17am PT
|
WTF does that even mean Jim. “Once you discount the long list of good routes, the rest aren’t as good?”
Hey I like to tweak the Californians as much as the next crusty contrarian Coloradan but that statement is effectively meaningless.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!