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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 10:31am PT
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Believe what you wish but the vast majority of the hooking on this climb is enhanced IMO. Go back and find Ammon's topo if you are curious about the climbing. The party that was on the route ahead of Ammon and Kait blew right on up the first five pitches in a half day and called the climbing they found unremarkable and no harder than modern A3+. They would have reached the top of the Great Slab at the end of a single day when Ammon took ten so bear that in mind. These guys used the same hooks that the FA party did and had no real problem.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 19, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
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^^ O'Really,Steve? ?
I believe Steve is not merely aging, but actually retired.
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
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Shameless plug to watch the WOS movie. It's available to stream everywhere, buy, rent, watch for free. All good
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 01:27pm PT
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Yep. Only people currently climbing walls are allowed to have and opinion on people adding bolts wherever they see fit on existing routes, even free routes.
Makes perfect sense.
Anybody with any climbing experience can recognize a clusterf*ck when they see it. Some just choose to rationalize it.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
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To paraphrase Sir Winston:
"Nevah in the field of human conflict were so many pixels wasted by so
many on such a one."
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overwatch
climber
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Nov 19, 2015 - 02:08pm PT
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Anyway who hasn't been?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
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Like I said, believe what you wish...
I'm still at it Pete, doing those perilous free climbs from which you retired long ago...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 19, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
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My favorite part has always been where Steve refers to the absence of evidence to support his position as though it actually is the very evidence that any rational person should "just know" is there.
Steve, flat out, you repeatedly claimed that you were going to climb it and prove to the world what a drilled-up POS it is. Then, when pushed to actually DO what you said, you started a litany of excuses and (to use your favorite word) obfuscations about why you can't be bothered to "waste your precious time." LOL
Okay, you're still lying about the route, in the face of the evidence, so it's time for you to make good on your assurances that you CAN even DO the route. You're "still at it," so you tell Pete. So, either put up or shut up. With your amazing prowess (that is SO far beyond that hoser Ammon's, as you assert), you should be able to whip up it in an afternoon. How much "precious time" can that waste?
No more excuses. Put up or shut up.
Tell us all the "truth" about it.
Edit: Meanwhile, keep TALKING! Your credibility just shines the more you TALK. ROFL
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 19, 2015 - 03:26pm PT
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Unless Ammon has attained Canadian citizenship, or at the very least turned in his pirate hat for a toque, he is knott a Hoser, eh?
Beauty rant, Richard.
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Nov 19, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 19, 2015 - 10:31am PT
Believe what you wish but the vast majority of the hooking on this climb is enhanced IMO. Go back and find Ammon's topo if you are curious about the climbing. The party that was on the route ahead of Ammon and Kait blew right on up the first five pitches in a half day and called the climbing they found unremarkable and no harder than modern A3+. They would have reached the top of the Great Slab at the end of a single day when Ammon took ten so bear that in mind. These guys used the same hooks that the FA party did and had no real problem.
So, you're not only trash talking about the first ascent party on WOS but you're also saying that Ammon is an incompetent aid climber. Ammon took 10 days on the hooking/Great slab pitches compared to the unknown team that "would" have made it in a single day.
I find this hard to believe.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Stay tuned...
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 19, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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Damn, I love the smell of a thread metastasizing in the morning.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
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^^^^^
Why isn't Wings of Steel on there? He has the speed record on that too :)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Nov 19, 2015 - 06:56pm PT
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Damn funny, limpingcrab.
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The Wolf
Trad climber
Martinez, CA
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Nov 19, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
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Next July marks the 5th anniversary of Ammon and Kait's ascent. Probably a thousand people have walked beneath that route since then and as far as I know, NO ONE has attempted a 3rd ascent. That should say something.
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OR
Trad climber
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Nov 19, 2015 - 07:24pm PT
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That was 5 years ago? Krikey times a flying.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 19, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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That should say something.
It says that everybody has been so deferring to SG, KNOWING that the third ascent is HIS, that they've been waiting for him to man up and DO what he repeatedly assured us all he would do.
The whole slab was his to begin with, and the madbolters' great sin was to not defer to him to begin with. People have learned their lesson from watching our experience. So, now everybody is waiting with bated breath for THE SG ASCENT....
when he's going to show everybody how it should have been done....
34 years ago.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Nov 19, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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Before Ammon's ascent you could've tied off and equalized about 10,000 caterpillers and had them drag you up and still get the speed record...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 20, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Here you are.
calder
Big Wall climber
Park City, Utah
Nov 22, 2009 - 01:08am PT
wow, who knew that a 13 pitch variation could warrant so much attention! I've read just a few of the threads and can clearly tell that I don't have the tenacity to sift through all of this information. Are there cliff notes available for the WOS web saga? For what its worth, this is what I know about the route. In June of 1996 Tim Wagner, Kevin Thaw, and myself climbed the first 5 pitches in a failed one day attempt. I don't remember a whole lot about it other than we started at 5:30 am and were on top of the fifth pitch by early afternoon...there were a few whippers to be had, the z-macks and rusty bat heads were frustrating. If I remember correctly, there was some sporty/tricky hooking sections, but nothing that I would consider crazy.
Calder
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!