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The Chief
climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
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Nov 29, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
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Deuce...
As you probably remember, gear was minimal in that section. All I had for the 40 or so feet were two marginal #5 Friends, lots of chickenwinging and no looking down. Coming out of that hole was the crux to say the least. Definitely a Classic.
But yours and Xavier's Swiss American over to the left is without a doubt my favorite line in there. Xavier definitely did some crazyass route finding on the "4x4" pitch.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2015 - 11:42pm PT
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Chief, i'd like to hear more about Swiss American. Does it get many ascents? How is that 4x4 pitch? Still 5.9 mantle to an A4 beak move?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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I still have my A5 bolt kit! My A5 wall spoon vanished though which I really lament. That was the best spoon I'll ever own.
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The Chief
climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
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Deuce...
I did it in May of 01'. I will never forget leading it, the 4X4 pitch. It was so committing and you dare NOT even think about coming off. Cus if you do, smack, splatter and most assuredly, left for dead while hanging in space upside down.
Definitely one of the narliest marginally (if even that!!!) protected most committing 60-70 or so feet I have ever done. That's 40 something years all over the world, done.
It is a Masterpiece. And from what I recall spending my last days in the Red Ditch back in the Spring of '01, yours and Xaviers piece of Excellence gets very few ascents. Saw hardly any evidence of folks getting on it. No major hammer scars on the Beak/Pins placements etc.
Badass Deuce!!! Badass....
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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Awesome report, Chief! Xaver did have his moments of intensity. Some brilliant moments. He lived for it, and sadly, died for it as well. I miss that guy! Cheers
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