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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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I've never climbed there, but I grew up in Shaver Lake.
Took a quick drive up there this summer, and was obviously impressed.
Lets hear your hearsay and regale us with your tales!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Oct 28, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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Wild, fun, clean. And no NP hassles.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 28, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Lowe Tricams
Power Dome
Do it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 28, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Wonderful.
Welcome to Courtright.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 28, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
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My favorite summer destination, perhaps because it's 90 minutes' drive from my house. And Cristoph, BIOTCH, Apogee, Munge and Crankster, I live in Harlan Ranch (about a half mile off Highway 168). If you're ever out this way, give me a call. I'd love to meet you and I'd even buy you a beer.
John
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 05:50am PT
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Never been myself. Bob Walton and Aaron MacDonald swear by it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2015 - 05:58am PT
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Smaller than Yosemite
Wetter than Joshua tree
More crowded than Balch Camp
Not as Steep as Cave Rock
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 29, 2015 - 07:09am PT
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Shoot, Jaybro, you really let the cat out of the bag.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Slabs.... Galore...
The Power House tour is not to be missed.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Oct 29, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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More fishermen and less climbers than most popular California climbing areas
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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not all slabs...but on the big formations are there crack climbs?
right by the dam there, on the downhill side, there is a single pitch wall that has 3 or 4 super splitter cracks on it. They didnt seem to have been climbed before that I could notice. (no anchors, [no available natural anchors] and no trail to the climb that i could see, no footprints even)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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After the 5.11 d face, P2 of "By Jupiter" is a beautiful 5.10b crack with a 5.11 move at the top stepping across to the belay ledge.
"Tiger by the Tail" is a short .11b (??) om Tiger wall. It might be short, but most will be glad it's not any longer. Rattly fingers for me.
There's a beautiful dihedral/crack on the backside of Locke Rock which I think is unclimbed. I set a bolted anchor at the top (two 5/16th's ?) cleaned it and tr'd it. I went back more recently to lead it but my partner vibed me out of it after the longish hike.
edit: Toward the left end of Voyager you'll see a large downward pointed black triangle up high. There's a really good 5.10d crack which climbs up to this feature and raps. "Eve of Destruction," named for Eve Laeger who did it first. Might need cleaning, but seriously worth it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Sounds like Transformer Wall. I've climbed the upper part of it (I think that's part of Tfrmer Wall, too) a long time ago- I think there were TR anchors on it- about 4-5 good splitters.
The lower section is much longer, but never went down there myself. Somebody here at ST posted about it last week sometime.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Little Nukey (5.9)on Power Dome is one of the coolest routes I've ever done in the Sierra. Right up there with anything of the grade in Tuolomne or Josh.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Just because there aren't bolts at the top doesn't mean various cracks haven't been climbed.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Need a gumby partner, Donut? Yes, are you going to tell me ask Kenny? I've been asking him for 2 summers and can't get him to walk down there with me. I'd go with you even though you're not a Gumby.
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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Just because there aren't bolts at the top doesn't mean various cracks haven't been climbed.
there are no options for a belay at the top, at least that I could see. flat top, no boulders or trees.
im sure it could have been (and probably has been) climbed, if not it should be climbed!
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