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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2015 - 07:10pm PT
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I've never climbed there, but I grew up in Shaver Lake.
Took a quick drive up there this summer, and was obviously impressed.
Lets hear your hearsay and regale us with your tales!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Oct 28, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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Wild, fun, clean. And no NP hassles.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 28, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Lowe Tricams
Power Dome
Do it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 28, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Wonderful.
Welcome to Courtright.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 28, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
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My favorite summer destination, perhaps because it's 90 minutes' drive from my house. And Cristoph, BIOTCH, Apogee, Munge and Crankster, I live in Harlan Ranch (about a half mile off Highway 168). If you're ever out this way, give me a call. I'd love to meet you and I'd even buy you a beer.
John
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 05:50am PT
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Never been myself. Bob Walton and Aaron MacDonald swear by it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 29, 2015 - 05:58am PT
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Smaller than Yosemite
Wetter than Joshua tree
More crowded than Balch Camp
Not as Steep as Cave Rock
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 29, 2015 - 07:09am PT
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Shoot, Jaybro, you really let the cat out of the bag.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Slabs.... Galore...
The Power House tour is not to be missed.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Oct 29, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
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More fishermen and less climbers than most popular California climbing areas
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2015 - 12:22pm PT
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not all slabs...but on the big formations are there crack climbs?
right by the dam there, on the downhill side, there is a single pitch wall that has 3 or 4 super splitter cracks on it. They didnt seem to have been climbed before that I could notice. (no anchors, [no available natural anchors] and no trail to the climb that i could see, no footprints even)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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After the 5.11 d face, P2 of "By Jupiter" is a beautiful 5.10b crack with a 5.11 move at the top stepping across to the belay ledge.
"Tiger by the Tail" is a short .11b (??) om Tiger wall. It might be short, but most will be glad it's not any longer. Rattly fingers for me.
There's a beautiful dihedral/crack on the backside of Locke Rock which I think is unclimbed. I set a bolted anchor at the top (two 5/16th's ?) cleaned it and tr'd it. I went back more recently to lead it but my partner vibed me out of it after the longish hike.
edit: Toward the left end of Voyager you'll see a large downward pointed black triangle up high. There's a really good 5.10d crack which climbs up to this feature and raps. "Eve of Destruction," named for Eve Laeger who did it first. Might need cleaning, but seriously worth it.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:04pm PT
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Sounds like Transformer Wall. I've climbed the upper part of it (I think that's part of Tfrmer Wall, too) a long time ago- I think there were TR anchors on it- about 4-5 good splitters.
The lower section is much longer, but never went down there myself. Somebody here at ST posted about it last week sometime.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Little Nukey (5.9)on Power Dome is one of the coolest routes I've ever done in the Sierra. Right up there with anything of the grade in Tuolomne or Josh.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Just because there aren't bolts at the top doesn't mean various cracks haven't been climbed.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:29pm PT
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Need a gumby partner, Donut? Yes, are you going to tell me ask Kenny? I've been asking him for 2 summers and can't get him to walk down there with me. I'd go with you even though you're not a Gumby.
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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Just because there aren't bolts at the top doesn't mean various cracks haven't been climbed.
there are no options for a belay at the top, at least that I could see. flat top, no boulders or trees.
im sure it could have been (and probably has been) climbed, if not it should be climbed!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 29, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Are you talking about the shortish wall that is just below the road? That approach is down the left side- kinda sandy & dirty, but very approachable. Outward Bound rock camps used it commonly- there is definitely a trail down to it. (And the cracks are quite good!)
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
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may be apogee,
right side of canyon if you are looking downhill away from dam.
anyway, we shouldnt be talking about 80 foot cracks in a land of HUGE GRANITE DOMES
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 29, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Christoph, No worries. I wasn't sure which cracks you meant, so my statement was general. This summer I went back to find a crack route I put up years ago at Courtright and when I finally found it, it looked like it had never been done. I also just got back from a different climbing area with bolts on every route.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 29, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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Man, I'd live to get out there next summer.
Could do a session at my favorite bouldering area - Doughnut Nation!!!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
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Could do a session at my favorite bouldering area - Doughnut Nation!!!!
I don't get lost very often, but the most lost I have ever been, turned around 180 wrong.... was when I tried to locate Doughnut Nation. Lucky for me a very loud car went past and clued us in to the location of the hwy... I was all set to go thataway... but then we needed to go thisaway.
That Dome in your photo. Its below "Swiss Cheese" wall right????
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Oct 29, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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Swiss Cheese Wall starts at Helms Creek. Nothing below it. That said I can't figure out where that photo is...
FWIW there are more than 20 routes on the upper and lower transformer walls, right below the dam on the right side looking down.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 29, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
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The place even has its own alpine summit, much like Cathedral Pk, its Dogtooth Pk.
(I have some shots of that one laying around... must find)
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 29, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
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Courtright is wonderful. Power dome has ultra high quality rock with solution pockets.
When the water is low, the beauty is not so...
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 29, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
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I don't see many people where you took that picture Doughnut, but I've been out there about 15 times. Lot's to do in that area and I've never even brought my climbing gear!
I know of at least one other person with that rock on his radar so go get on it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Thx John! How do you feel about Wishon trips? I'm inclined to do a few things there probably before I hit Courtright, but then again Clink and Aaron are persuasive.
Doughnut, that looks prime. When is the season for it? I can't climb worth a sh#t right now, but I can belay those first pitches fo shizzle.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Let's go Ludwig!
Did you tell Kenny there was a Bud Light fairy at the base? I bet that would have worked...
I never thought of that! We'll try that on him when we go next year.
When is the season for it? I think the season for it ended yesterday.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Doughnut, Is that one down in the North Fork drainage/canyon?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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How do you feel about Wishon trips?
I'm up for anything, but I usually am going in high summer, and the difference in temperatures between Wishon and Courtright can be substantial. Probably for that reason, I've been to Courtright probably ten or more times for each trip to Wishon.
John
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Power Dome, fun stuff, don't forget .05, 1, try cams:)
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Nov 10, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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Bump for another good one.
I've never been there, but this post has peaked my interest.
TFPU
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Nov 10, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Climbrunride on The Paraclete, Power Dome.-lars
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Nov 10, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
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Courtright sucks. Stay away.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Dec 13, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Donut....let do that wall!...oh yeah...by the way, COURTRIGHT SUCKS...STAY AWAY!
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2015 - 06:13pm PT
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flydude,
when did they get internet service in prather?
RIP fosters freeze
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Dec 13, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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It's still dial-up...Morris-code gunfire is still our preferred means of communication...Donut is within friendly fire distance from me, as I was to find out.
Donut, you owe me a window.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Dec 15, 2015 - 02:56pm PT
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Next Summer? I think I see a stash of Bud Lights there on the left.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 16, 2015 - 05:46am PT
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Nice picture Flydude. I'll stash bud light at the base for any wankers who want to go. If I can convince a good climber like Jeremy to go I'll stash good beer instead.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 16, 2015 - 06:07am PT
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KSolem-
This thread and another thread with some Domelands info have me thinking about all the FA's I've seen by Ron Carson.
Did you climb with him?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Dec 16, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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Ron Carson is the real deal. Hard cranking, humble and modest. I've climbed a bunch with him and he's as solid as they come. Many of his routes in the Sierra s are still seldom done today due to their difficult moves and bold runouts. I wish he'd go climbing more often.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Dec 16, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Thanks for the response Levy. Your description is what I had figured.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 06:40am PT
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I distinctly remember sharing a multi-pitch route on Penstemon with KSolem and watching a Peregrine try to rip his head off on the last pitch.
I think it was the same road trip whereby we came under hostile, fully automatic rifle fire at the base of trapper dome. (Was it trapper dome?)
Surreal is the word that comes to mind after I cleaned my shorts. We both tried to exhale and slip into a 3" horizontal crack at the bottom while shards of rock rained down from the bullet impacts above.
That valley is full of mouth-breathers and banjo music
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:07am PT
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Every time I've been up there its just great. Some really nice and grippy face climbs on Trapper Dome. The Best in High Sierra Climbing that you can drive to.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Are the dotted bullet impact pock marks still strewn across the face of it reminiscent of Oradour-sur-Glane circa 1944?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:53am PT
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The place is da bomb....
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:59am PT
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Wow, there are two faces around Courtright on my list of rocks to explore. Doughnut posted a picture of the first one and then Flydude screenshots the second one on Google Earth!
I figured only fisherman would be around there but the climbers are creeping around as well!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Dec 18, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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It's a long long drive once you start in.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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I climbed with Ron maybe twice, at The Needles and at a Kern Canyon area called The Rincon. A master for sure.
Funny Carson story. I was camped at the Rincon trailhead with a fine young woman in her VW van. Things were looking up as they say. So in rolled Ron in this rig he used to drive, a Toyota truck with a tall slope-sided camper he built that made it look like some kind of battle scarred space vehicle. He walked over to the van. "Hi Kris, what's up?" "Not much, meet (name deleted to protect the not so innocent.)" Ron sized up his prey. "Wanna watch a movie?" She took a quick look at me and turned back to Ron. "Sure, of course." I couldn't believe my eyes, they practically ran over to that truck. Ouch. At least they didn't take my wine.
Ron used to keep these long TR's set up on //Pegleg/Ankles Away, and Scirocco// at The Needles. We'd go out and run laps on those things 'till we couldn't hold on any more. Well, I couldn't hold on anyway. Of course you were forbidden to tie in unless you'd already led the things...
Another summer, it must have been when those guys were doing Titanic. It was morning at the campground and Ron took off to take a dump. When he got back he was carrying a rolled up chocolate power bar in some TP. He took off after Yaniro who fell for it hook, line and sinker. I just about puked up my coffee.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Dec 18, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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Bigger than a bread box.
Cool tales Ksolem
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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I believe there is a trip report in the bowels of the interwebs about the hail of gunfire in the Cali back country.
Its coming back to me like a hazy dream involving a German temptress and her rude escort.
Maybe Kris' memory is better.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 18, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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I had the pleasure/honor of climbing with Mr. Carson a bit. The most memorable trip was when he showed up at the apartment I shared with Lurking Fear. We started the trip by launching bottle rockets into the apartment at lurking fear who was trying to study at the table. He then took me to Dome Rock where he led something scary and then getting me to solo anti-jello crack but only after he agreed to solo behind me to show he was truly confident in my ability to live through the experience.
I saw him this fall and he said he climbs very little due to some injuries. So now he is probably just way better than me rather than way way way better than me like he used to be.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 11:24am PT
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My friend Bryan and I were up on the ledge at Trapper Dome where there’s that row of sport climbs. Without warning a fusillade of gunfire broke out in the woods below us. This is right by the road and across the road is a popular family campground.
The firing was non-stop, we thought for sure a gun battle had broken out. Then rounds began to hit the rock. We got behind a big flake leaning against the wall. When there was no sign of the battle letting up we made a break around the end of the dome toward the campground hosts site. He could radio the rangers, certainly he already had.
The campground was in full on bug-out mode, with folks throwing stuff in and on their vehicles in complete disarray.
The host was there right by the entrance. He seemed like he’d had a couple, and that he had tried to get the rangers, although it was unclear whether he had. “I’m gonna go put a stop to this nonsense!” He put on his hat and walked in the direction of the gunfire. Bryan and I just shook our heads. The host’s wife went back in the trailer, perhaps to arm herself?
After a few minutes the shooting stopped. Good God, the old man did it! Apparently he walked right up to the firing line and told them to cut it out. Balls. It was a bunch of central valley yahoos who thought they were in the middle of nowhere and had found a cool place to shoot. Sometime later I asked the old man what came of it all. He said the rangers got ‘em on the way down the hill with a stash of illegal guns.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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A much better rendition than my fragmented memory. I had forgotten about the drunken campground host gone rogue.
But didn't forget the German hottie ironically....
Signed,
Bryan (the other white meat) aka The Dude.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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I thought that was you! Ha!. Sent an email via this site.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
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Indeed. I figured it was high time SuperTopo received the gift of my opinion on a variety of topics both climbing and non-climbing related.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Oh oh... here we go.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
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Indeed. I figured it was high time SuperTopo received the gift of my opinion on a variety of topics both climbing and non-climbing related.
Welcome, bring it on!
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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You'll do well to speak when spoken to henceforth Mr Keese. Ha
As I was standing in line today to pick up a silencer for a rifle your state doesn't see fit to trust to the likes of you two....... I was reminiscing about that route Ksolem and I did on Penstemon Dome.
While I was greasing (and likely whining) my way up one of the particularly featureless pitches, I was lamenting the lack of a right hand hold. Kris hollered up (bored and tired of watching my progress-or lack thereof) "just put your hand where you think there ought to be a hand hold and pull up on that".
You know what? That little piece of Jedi magic worked for me and I sweated my way to the anchor, having gone hopelessly off route.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 18, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
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The prominent/dominant water streak route up the middle of Power Dome is not to be missed either. Can't remember the name. Welcome to Courtright?
A moderate climb, even for mere mortals such as myself, that follows the natural line up the thing.
Its nice to use all the esoteric pro that rattles around the bottom of your crag bag also.
Don't forget the kevlar vest and the Level III trauma plate.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
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That was "Song of The Earth" on Penstemon. I remember that day. You did well once you quit looking for holds...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Dec 19, 2015 - 12:09am PT
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Prominent/dominant water streak....Helmsdeep*
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Dec 19, 2015 - 07:55am PT
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What makes Courtright pretty special is it's location. It's not easy to get to for most, keeps most people away except for those who really want it. Scenery is great, fishing is good, climbing is outstanding. There is something for everyone on those domes.
Really special place. Reminds me a lot of Thomas E Edison Lake (Edison Lake). Edison doesn't have the domes so much but it has the gorgeous Vermillion Cliffs. Not really tall, but really beautiful.
Kris, I think I've asked you about those Cliffs and if they've got many routes on them. Forgot what you said.
I think there is a Bear Dome down the trail from the lake too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dec 19, 2015 - 10:07am PT
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How delicious.
Thanks Kris!
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Dec 19, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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That was "Song of The Earth" on Penstemon. I remember that day. You did well once you quit looking for holds...
Silly me.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Donut, if you make it Lagunatis, IPA, I'll try to lead like Ron Carson...dude, it's gonna be a late spring...gotta snowmobile?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Eve Laeger told me that it's a nice ski in from the gate.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dwight, I'll be ready but I need someone who leads more like Mark Spencer than Ron Carson.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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The Carson Kodas Arete is one of the best one pitch rock climbs I've ever done. It's so good I was nuts enough to do it a few times.
Oh wait, was that ST spray? Sure as sh*t it was :-)
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Feb 13, 2016 - 05:46pm PT
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Hey there Donut...so Rick Harlan taught me to smoke for face and drink for crack...you might have the first pitch according to that advise...but I'll carry yer drill, light one up fer ya and give you encouragement!...let's go!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Feb 13, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
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Hah! Last winter Kenny said he'd go with me but come summer he was less enthusiastic. I will go with any and all who are willing when the road opens.
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