Is anyone reestablishing that Half Dome route today?

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the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Jul 16, 2015 - 02:12pm PT

IMO the new section should simply be consistent with the rest of the route. It would be dumb to have a 5.14 mandatory free slab pitch in the middle of a 5.9 C1 route.

But we can debate all we want, whoever goes up there and establishes the new pitches will do what they want and unless it's terribly out of character with the rest of the route and Half Dome standards it will remain.

Maeday

Trad climber

San Francisco

Jul 16, 2015 - 03:57pm PT

Translation of Pelut's post.

The wall es back in the action by muy bold Espania hombres! No Americano could do so bueno route fix and rename of old classico route to nuevo standards! Bueno suerte mi Americano dogs as not hombre in USA has huevos of size rechoired for escalde ascent

Salut! Viva Espania

Can't wait to see who does it! The topo is there:)

Lorenzo

Trad climber

Portland Oregon

Jul 16, 2015 - 04:07pm PT

That's the worst Spanglish ever.

WBraun

climber

Jul 16, 2015 - 04:16pm PT

This thread is nothing but people guessing, yapping endless saying nothing.

You will be surprised what will be happening with this.

It's gonna be rough for n00000bs .....

Gene

climber

Jul 16, 2015 - 04:31pm PT

Once the RNWFHD is reestablished to approximate the original, would someone please replace the Rotten Log?

Thanks.

crankster

Trad climber

No. Tahoe

Jul 16, 2015 - 07:45pm PT

Jul 16, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
This thread is nothing but people guessing, yapping endless saying nothing.

Case in point.

Tamara Robbins

climber

not a climber, just related...

Jul 16, 2015 - 09:39pm PT

For those who were wondering what Royal's response is, I sent a copy of my post with a general explanation of context & he and Mom read it and responded with "Perfect!"

Led me to muse that I'd asked them at all - his words throughout the years, as well as his routes, pretty clearly "state" his stance about all things climbing (and ethics) related.

If it has indeed already been bolted, I'm sorry to hear it. Seems a precipitous response to an awesome change of the game by the universe/mother nature! Fortunately, even if so, it shouldn't affect the spirit of those who are stretching the limits, acting with integrity, and rising to challenges.... as nothing has the power to do that.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Jul 16, 2015 - 10:01pm PT

All this jabbering and it ain't done yet? Weak!

donald perry

Trad climber

kearny, NJ

Jul 17, 2015 - 03:56pm PT

How much time does one need to spend in the gym to get up this thing now? It's only a short section, I think to for hard core climbers to have one pitch there makes little to no sense, unless it is a variation. The ideal situation for all concerned would be to try to put something back there similar to what was there before if at all possible. Perhaps a pendulum of some kind or hooking up some "easy" free climbing sections for all the people who want to "repeat" the route.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Denver CO

Jul 17, 2015 - 04:22pm PT

Well, the first ascensionist has spoken and the traditional rules should be respected. I'm hoping there is a variation no harder than 5.10.

TLP

climber

Jul 17, 2015 - 09:04pm PT

Good mix of thoughts expressed. But this one deserves more attention, for two reasons:

if the traverse doesn't work well, people might even look at going way down and right, up cracks and then back left to the chimneys, once the dust settles.

It sure does seem like there might be a possibility to lower a ways then pendulum way right, then climb maybe some more fun aid up to connect with the remaining chimneys. That would leave the blank dirt-stained patch available for some rad free - with the pendulum bolt for the first minimalist point of pro. So, two really different variations to satisfy different camps of thought on this thread.

One really cool thing about the original route is that it connects features. Any substitute for the missing pitch or so should be consistent with that approach, even if it means a pretty significant variation and some actual aid to do in a part of the route that you used to just zoom up (uh, unless you bivvied, like we did, on the missing ledge). It would make it a better route albeit at the cost that you wouldn't do the Robbins Traverse anymore.

The other issue is "once the dust settles". Which could be a while if the next couple chimneys fall off too.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Trad climber

Shittalkqua, WA

Jul 17, 2015 - 09:22pm PT

fun aid

... is neither.

bootysatva

Trad climber

Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.

Jul 20, 2015 - 07:10am PT

If the new section is harder than 5.11a I'll have to settle for one of the other bazillion climbs I have yet to do. ( or train harder )
Every climb in the world need not be dumbed down to my level.
For me, climbing is about meeting the earth as it is and rising to the challenge without bringing it down to my ability of lack thereof.

Ernesto Ale'

david_cdx

Trad climber

Mexico City

Jul 22, 2015 - 06:24pm PT

There has not been any try ?

WBraun

climber

Jul 22, 2015 - 07:36pm PT

There has not been any try ?

There has.

Top secret .....

couchmaster

climber

Jul 22, 2015 - 07:40pm PT

I'll be the first to suggest that the 100 new bolts in the bolt ladder put in to link features to keep the route viable be named the "Robbins bolt ladder". In honor of....etc etc etc etc.

Warren has given a thumbs up they say.

Sits all i have. will sit and nosh popcorn as the discourse unfolds:

sorry, i really meant "will sit and nosh popcorn as "TEH" discourse unfolds....

Bivi Brothers

Trad climber

Oceanside California

Jul 27, 2015 - 09:50am PT

Just spent 5 days on the Route, 3 days of which were figuring out the proudest and safest way to link the missing pitch. Two variation now exist to bypass the fallen pitch!!!
Will post trip report with topo beta soon!!!
And yes it was a dream come true! Thanks to all my loved ones who believed in us that we could make it happen!
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