The Crack Climber's Technique Manual
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Messages 21 - 25 of total 25 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Aug 11, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
I got my copy a few weeks ago. Read the first few chapters and have been impressed. I climbed this weekend practicing my jams with the techniques in the book and felt way more solid than I ever have jamming. Granted I flailed up cracks for the most part, so any improvement would be good.
Gunks Jesse

Trad climber
Shawangunk, NY
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2015 - 05:51am PT
The book paired with the Wild Country crack school video series is a powerful combo. The book is more technical in why and how they work and the steps to improve, but the videos allow you to see some of the techniques in practice. Good combo.

Here is a link to the YouTube series:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9W99gN54wLQ
Mei

Trad climber
Was one
Aug 14, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
Will anyone want to make a trip down to PGSV for a workout on a variety of cracks on Sunday afternoon? I'll be in the area and can start at noon or later.

I think someone might have deleted his own post so my previous thread bump fell off of the last page. Here it is:

PGSV is offering three 2-hour crack climbing workshops in August: hand, thin, and wide. One can sign up for each one individually. This is not an endorsement because I just signed up for thin and wide, and have no idea how good the instructor is. Just posting it as an FYI for the people in the Bay Area.

Up until last Sunday, I was the only one who signed up for thin and wide. I hope they don't cancel the classes. C'mon, there have to be lurkers here who can use a pointer or two on those finger and OW cracks, right? If you think you don't, come to PGSV and try out the two finger cracks and the off-knee-width crack (left most crack in Ice Box) to prove. Just make sure not to get your knee stuck. They already chiseled and patched it once or twice before.
Mei

Trad climber
Was one
Sep 2, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
It's been a few weeks that I worked on a couple of hard cracks (a finger and a 4" OW) at the PGSV gym. I've tried to figure out things on my own, studied the book, and received pointers from masters. In the end, I'll say having a good mentor is most helpful; that, and constant practice.

The book is nice to flip through and I don't regret buying it, but my breakthroughs did not come from the book. In hindsight, some key techniques that resulted in my breakthroughs are not covered in the book. Granted, every crack is different, and even the same crack is climbed differently by different people. For example...
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Happy cracking!
Mei

Trad climber
Was one
Sep 18, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
SF climbers, if you are *not* getting outside this weekend, let me know if you want to join me for a Saturday afternoon (2pm) session at Planet Granite Presidio to work on all the cracks. I only discovered the good variety there last weekend and can't wait to get back on. Some of them are pretty fun, in a challenging way.
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