ElCap Report 617/15 Todays climbing and Rescue


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Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 17, 2015 - 08:04pm PT

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jun 17, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
Damn, so close and yet so far.

Thanks Ansel E.
c wilmot

Jun 17, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
Was the climber injured or did the park service rescue his gear?

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
Jun 17, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
Thanks Tom.

Big Wall climber
Jun 17, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
If his wrists did not let him procede or descend safely, he did the right thing calling for a rescue. Better than pushing it and adding another greese spot to the base of el cap.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jun 17, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
Gee, my hands hurt.
Shall we call for rescue? Not yet, Cristobal and I are tough. Moving up from ECT manana. Cristobal did some bad ass runout wyde 10 and 11 climbing.

Where is Schneidly Whiplash?? I miss Anita514. Sigh. Ledge not the same without her.


Cheers, eh?
PtPP and Cristobal

Ps. I need to sneeze.....




Jun 18, 2015 - 12:28am PT
I am glad to see Matt got off safely.
Why disrespect someone who decides to not take chances when it really doesn't feel right? There is a lot of things you/me don't know about the situation, and there is a lot of potential for someone else needing to call to get a real emergency rescue (read dangerous) or even recovery going if the plug isn't pulled before sh#t hits the fan.
The boys and girls at yosar also prefer this kind of "fun" exercise to full on emergency rescues or recoveries, I am sure. Free ride to El Cap? Don't worry, I am sure nobody hated their day.

If anything, Matt took the chance to summit on his own from himself and other than that, no harm was done ....

Oh and your tax money pays for every fat idiot who decides he can "climb" half dome so he can buy a t-shirt and then needs a rescue and that happens about once a week in summer.

edit. hudon did the same, just that he called some guys he knew and had them rescue him - and he didn't get any sh#t for that - thankfully. now don't be lame because "Matt" doesn't sounds a great/extreme as Hugedong.

edit2. best wishes for your recovery Matt. Hope it's nothing too bad..
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Jun 18, 2015 - 12:38am PT
Fully agree with the last post.

Boulder climber
Jun 18, 2015 - 01:05am PT
A rescue was called in by Matt Stanich, who was having difficulties with his hands
"Furious masturbation?"

Boulder climber
Jun 18, 2015 - 01:10am PT
I had a nice visit with a mom and her ducklings this morning.
Photo of the deadbeat dad shortly after their conception:

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Jun 18, 2015 - 07:18am PT
A real bummer for him, but I would think he had a really good reason to call for a rescue being that close to the top. Those last couple of pitches are pretty low angle and easy.

Big Wall climber
Jun 18, 2015 - 07:29am PT
Good job search and rescue!

Good job Matty!

Too bad his back went out so bad that his hands didn't work..

Edit: piton pete Matty is one of the original camp 5 ers!

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jun 18, 2015 - 07:46am PT
Great report as usual. Must have been a tough call for Matt but sounds like the right one. Hope he heals soon and gets on the wall again!

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 08:00am PT
I am surprised... guess I shouldn't be knowing how the Taco is these days...to see the haters come out without any information as to the situation on the rock. I know of no climbers who would call for a
"convenience" rescue. I think it best to learn the situation before slandering people but that never seems to be the case here.
Pete I am always amazed at your endless need to promote yourself... here you are taking advantage of another climbers misfortune to tell everyone how tough and great you are... pitiful really.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 18, 2015 - 08:06am PT
I have Carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands.

It has fully locked up on me during work, rendering me useless for up to 2 days.

I came off a 7 day route, and could not use my hands for 5 days.

I could see this type of ailment, if it happened on a solo, warrant a rescue.

You never know how or what is going on until the climber gets a chance to tell his story.

Glad Matt will have that opportunity.


Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Jun 18, 2015 - 08:30am PT
IIRC Mark got quite a bit of undeserved hate for his rescue mostly in the terms of people trying to invalidate the "purity" of his ascent.
c wilmot

Jun 18, 2015 - 08:45am PT
I merely posed a question- and having worked in YOS for the NPS- one that I feel is relevant given that the NPS operates on a slim budget.
It is also silly to knock others for their "speculation" of info you yourself posted.
And lastly- if you climbed yourself into a dumb position with a pre- existing injury- then that is pretty much your fault- and you should pay for the rescue
iron duchess maiden or whatever

Social climber
under a pile of rock
Jun 18, 2015 - 08:47am PT
Yes Tom,

you do know how the Taco is. These days, as before...
it hasn't changed much, except of course, for
the fact that the haters are proportionally increasing. It's a new generation Tom. 1970s climbers were proud and free. But these kids, it's scary. Seems a lot of young people have little to do all day other than throwing up their last meal onto whatever appears on their screen.


The future looks grim. Or to quote a 1970s guy who knew:
There's no future... no future! No future for you [them].

Oh, and Tom, happy birthday. This time is hmmmm... 74?


Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 09:12am PT
C Wilmot...My post was not speculation, as I was in contact with Matt and knew his situation... I simply stated the facts and the haters came out... I have always tried to give this site the benefit of the doubt and even stopped posting for a time... looks like a good time to go back to that...

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jun 18, 2015 - 09:41am PT
Great response Tom. The hate by the few is par for them. It just makes them look like the fools they are.
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